4 
CURTIS DAHLIAS 
the size of a pea, we take out the two side ones, and leave the 
center bud to grow alone, if by chance one of the side buds is 
larger, or looks healthier than the center one, then take out 
the center bud, and the weakest or smaller of the side buds. 
With this done we then stay on this branch and go down to 
the last set of leaves on this same branch, and take out the 
two small branches, or laterals as they are called. These, as a 
rule, are small, as they are just beginning to sprout out from 
the node, or joint where the leaf is growing from. We do this 
right down on all of the leaves on this one branch until we get 
down to the last set of leaves; these we allow to grow. This not 
only gives a large flower, but also a longer and stronger stem. 
Continue this application on all the side stems on the plant. 
SPRAYING—During the hot days of Summer insects, pests 
such as Aphids, Thrips, Leaf Hoppers, Green Flies, Cucumber 
Beetles, etc., are more or less prevalent and dahlia plants arc 
generally attacked by them. If any of these pests should be 
noticed on or around the plants they should be sprayed at once 
with a good insecticide. It is generally best to spray before 
any insects appear rather than to wait until they make their 
presence known. In the latter case, many times, the plants are 
so debilitated or stunted from the ravages of these pests that 
spraying will be of little help. We have found the best way to 
hold these pests in check is to start spraying the plants at 
regular intervals of about two weeks, starting in when the 
plants are about a foot high. We are using Red Arrow. 
DIGGING THE BULBS—Late in the Fall after heavy frost 
has blackened the tops, Dahlias should be dug and removed to 
a frost proof cellar for storage during the winter. The digging 
must be done very carefully as the single bulb planted in the 
Spring will now have made a large clump. The clump should 
be loosened from all sides and then carefully lifted, taking 
great care so as not to break the necks of the bulbs. Any cel¬ 
lar that potatoes can be stored in successfully will be alright 
for Dahlias. They must be kept cool and away from heat, 
otherwise they will start to grow again if the cellar is too warm. 
If the cellar is equipped with a furnace, the bulbs should be 
removed as far as possible from all heat and covered over with 
some light material such as straw, sand, or sawdust. Soil is 
alright providing it is dry. 
DIVIDING THE CLUMPS—In the Spring as soon as the 
eyes or sprouts begin to show the clumps should be divided. 
To do this, first split the clumps by cutting through the 
stalk with a good strong pocket knife or short bladed butcher 
knife if you have one. Then cut each half in two, trying to 
divide the bulbs so that each one will have a piece of the stalk 
with an eye or sprout attached to the bulb. The eyes are all 
formed around the base of the stalk there being none on the 
bulbs, so in dividing, great care must be used to see that each 
bulb has a piece of stalk with an eye on it attached to the bulb, 
otherwise they will not grow. 
GRAND SLAM (S.C.) 1936 
