40 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
September 15, 1900. 
INTS FOR WMATEURS. 
The month of September.—The eveniDgs now 
have an autumn feel ; the cool air, the clearness of 
the atmosphere, the jaded look of nearly all vege¬ 
tative leaf growth, the tints of the foliage which are 
beginning here and there to appear, and the empty 
corn and Potato fields, and the orchards with full 
sized fruits, these are the most apparent features 
which give evidence of autumn’s installation. The 
migratory birds have either left or are preparing now 
to go. And the days and nights are more nearly 
equal. After seven in the evening one cannot 
see to do much in the open-air. Then when one 
rises in the morning to find the mercury down to 45 
or even 40° F., it is high time to make preparations 
for the housing of any tender plants we may have 
out. There will be no need to take in Chrysanthe¬ 
mums for a little while yet. They can stand io° 
of frost without being much harmed, and a week of 
sharp evenings and sunny days has a wonderful 
effect on the plumping and hardening of wood 
growth. However, you need not experiment to see 
how much frost any of your plants can withstand ; 
suffice it to know that io° is about their limit, and 
when so badly frosted as this, they require to be 
placed away from the range of the sun, being 
syringed with cold water to thaw them. Of course 
if the air is still frosty, the syringing would do no 
good. Zonal Pelargoniums, Eupatoriums, Salvias, 
Heliotropes and other soft wooded plants may be 
shifted to the greenhouse toward the end of the 
month. 
Cuttings should now pretty well all be put into 
frames, or boxes or pans. In the case of bedding 
Pelargoniums take the cuttings from the stout side 
growths of the plants in the beds. Make them about 
5 in. in length. Strip off the leaves from the lower¬ 
most nodes, or joints, and cut the stem cleanly 
through at right angles just under one of the joints. 
This must be done neatly with all kinds of cuttings, 
and the leaves should also be deftly removed, no 
jagged ends being left. When a sufficient quantity 
has been prepared, and conveniences to hold them, 
have them dibbed in at once. It is a great point to 
get them into the damp soil and firmed before they 
have flagged to any serious extent. If this operation 
is quickly done they soon pick up. The receptacles 
by the way should be prepared with the same care 
that is exercised in making the cuttings. Wooden 
boxes should have the drainage seams or 
holes in the bottom fully covered with good 
sized crocks, and ever all the bottom there 
should be an even layer of crocks and roughly 
sifted cinders. Above this again, place a 
sprinkling of half decayed leaves, or fibre, and then 
fill in the sandy compost. Experienced gardeners 
know the benefit of taking precautions. They know 
that these same cuttings, with barely a single root, 
have got to pull through the cold damp days of 
winter, and they make the provisions which experi¬ 
ence has taught them is necessary. So difficult are 
many of the bedding plants to keep through the 
winter, that only those with greenhouses, fruit 
houses, or good pits and frames should attempt to 
winter them. It is cheaper and much better for 
others to fill their pits or frames with moderately 
hardy plants, which only require a little protection 
on very severe evenings. Even if they do not wish 
to be without Pelargoniums, Calceolarias, &c , for 
summer bedding, they can still buy a quantity in 
spring. But if the beds are only small ones, I would 
recommend that they be filled with annuals, as 
Petunias, Phlox Drummondii in varieties, Nemesias, 
Larkspurs, Antirrhinums, Dianthi, Verbenas, Asters, 
and other subjects. Taller plants could also be 
raised from seeds, such as Ricinus, Zea Mays, 
ornamental Beet, and various ornamental Grasses. 
These should be used as “dot” plants above the 
ground covering of the others. 
Begonias of course may be raised and planted out 
during summer. They can be lifted, dried off and 
stored in sand during winter, and considering their 
qualities in all respects, it is surely matter to wonder 
at that they should not be grown by the thousand 
more. 
Fuchsias. — Before the older plants go out of 
flower, and while there is still some young wood to 
be had, a batch of young plants may be struck. 
When these have rooted and are seen to be doing 
well, some of the largest of the old plants 
may be thrown away to make room for the young 
ones. A great mistake with many growers is their 
habit of cherishing old specimen plants when they 
have only a limited space at their disposal. It is 
much better to have a variety of fresh young stock 
than a collection of well-known “old stagers." 
Begonias for winter flowering may require a shift 
at this time. Keep them in a growing temperature, 
that is, about 6o p to 65°, and moist. Plenty of light 
should be allowed. A covering of cinders should be 
placed on the stages. 
Cyclamens.—It will soon be time to remove these 
to the greenhouse. So long as they are in the 
frames, keep them turned about so that they may 
form shapely plants. The cinders upon which they 
stand should be kept clean and the pots may be 
washed occasionally. Cleanliness has a wonderful 
effect on the good growth of the plants. By no 
means allow them to become infested with aphides, 
else growth will never progress. 
The watering should be very carefully done, and 
at present manure-water may be given once or twice 
a week, but it must not be strong. Allow the plants 
full ventilation on all warm days, and, unless the 
weather is cold, a yard of air to span-roofed frames 
should always be allowed, though they may be 
closed at night. Syringe, or rather dew, the plants 
over the leaves and around the pots before the sun 
strikes the frame in the morning, and again when it 
shifts in the afternoon. Shading is scarcely necessary, 
only if the middle of the day is hot, a slight protec¬ 
tion will be required. 
Calceolarias and Cinerarias.—The treatment 
(except syringing) recommended for the Cyclamens 
will be quite acceptable to the Calceolarias and 
Cinerarias in the frames. 
Salvia splendens.—Up to the end of the present 
month these may be left outside. Feeding with 
liquid manure will be required. Pinching should be 
discontinued. 
Hippeastrums.—The present is the best time to 
pot up an early batch of Hippeastrums (Amaryllis). 
A selection of the best bulbs should be made, and 
these may be potted singly into 6-in. pots. A 
turfy compost is most suitable — one composed of 
two parts good yellow loam, one part leaf-mould, and 
about a quarter each of decayed dung, sand, and 
some charcoal. A dash of bone-meal may be added. 
Clarkia elegans var. Salmon Queen.—So beautiful 
is the well-known Clarkia elegans, that one hesitates 
to say that there can be anything in the same line 
prettier. But there is. And it is the variety, Salmon 
QueeD, of which a fine large bed was recently viewed 
at Messrs. Cancell’s Nursery, Eynsford, Kent. If 
gardeners in private places could afford to sow and 
grow large beds of such fine varieties it would cer¬ 
tainly be good gardening to do so. Salmon Queen is 
decidedly salmon-coloured. In all other respects the 
variety is like C. elegans. When I saw this beautiful 
bed, I tried to picture a dinner-table decorated with 
this flower, atd in my mind’s eye the effect, with gas¬ 
light, was exquisite in the warmth and mellow soft¬ 
ness of its composition. Decorations in pmk or 
salmon, as a rule, please everybody. They should 
not be spoilt by admixture of any contrasting colour. 
— Beacon. 
Correspondence. 
Questions asked by amateurs on any subject pertaining 
to gardens or gardening mil be answered on this page. 
Anyone may give additional or more explanatory answers 
to questions that have already appeared. Those who desire 
their communications to appear on this page should write 
"Amateurs' Page " on the top of their letters. 
Chrysanthemums: Manures for.— H .: Nitrate 
of soda is beneficial for the leaf and stem growth of 
the plants. Potash, or manures containing potash, 
are necessary for the proper manufacture of starch 
in the leaves and stems. Starch is one of the 
primary products of the leaves, and without it there 
would be no increase of growth. Phosphatic 
manures have been proved to directly influence the 
production of flowers and seeds. If you wish to 
make an artificial fertiliser for yourself (which we do 
not commend) use :—“ One part nitrate of soda, one 
part dried blood, two parts superphosphate, one part 
kainit and a quarter part sulphate of iron.” Apply 
^-oz. a week in x gallon of water. Fowl manure is 
very valuable for Chrysanthemums. 
Garden or Decorative Roses.— G. Alexander, 
Bristol ; — The following ought to succeed with you. 
They are splendid garden Roses when well grown :— 
Princess Marie, W. A. Richardson, Anna Marie de 
Montravel, Mdme. Pernet Ducher, Crested Moss, 
Common Moss, Cabbage or Provence, Rosa Mundie, 
Mdme. C. Guinoisseau, Baron de Wertemberg, 
Gloire de Dijon, Cooling's Himalayaica and Rosa 
macrantha. The hybrid Sweet Briers are also 
recommended. 
Propagation of Euonymus japonicus and 
Escallonia lindleyana.— B. R. S . : Both are propa¬ 
gated from cuttings of the firm wood of the current 
year. Place them in pans, pots cr frames in very 
light sandy soil. Make them as you would a 
Fuchsia culling. They strike readily in cold frames 
or pits, but should be protected from frost for some 
time. Most of the ornamental Conifers may also 
be propagated from cuttings inserted in open-air 
borders now. 
Open-air Tomatos not ripening.— IV. J.\ The 
present has been an exceptionally sunless summer, 
and the conditions are no better yet. If your 
Tomato fruits do not ripen in the open air, you have 
still the further resource of cutting them to hang 
them in a warmed glasshouse where some will ripen. 
Green Tomatos can be successfully pickled. 
Winter Crop to follow Runner Beans.— Vege¬ 
tarian. Broccoli or “Kales" may be tried. Do not 
dig the ground, but clear the surface soil and plant 
at once. 
Protectives for Grass Edges.—IF. Johnston, 
Cullen : Our correspondent complains that he cannot 
keep his lawn edges from being trod down and 
spoilt. The only thing left for him is to get iron 
guards made. These should be strong, and about 
2 ft. high, otherwise they are rather dangerous. We 
would suggest that a permanent single iron rail 
fence, which may be 18 in. high, be erected in places 
where the grounds may be conveniently reserved. 
The relaying of grass edges every winter is a serious 
business in somejgardens. 
Solanum Wendlandii. — F. Fisher: By pruning 
back the long flowering shoots which have produced 
this year's display, fresh growths will break out in 
spring. Keep the plant dormant through the winter 
months. 
Gloxinias.— A. Tait: Donat grow them ou, but 
dry them off as advised in some of our calendars. 
Cucumber for Winter.— M. Bull : You will not 
be successful with Cucumbers grown in a frame 
during winter. A good span-roofed house, about 
15 ft. long and 10 ft. wide, well-heated top and 
bottom, is generally requidtioned. The soil should 
consist of turfy maiden loam—two parts—one part 
leaf mould and half each of sand and sifted mortar. 
Place the compost on the siages in mounds and 
leave it till it gets warmed through, then plant 
sturdy young Cucumbers. A temperature of 63° at 
night up to 75° during the day should be maintained 
at all times. The great point is to keep them 
always growing, and this is done by removing old or 
superfluous growths by top-dressings and careful 
watering. Liquid manure is not much needed 
during the dull winter days. Improved Telegraph, 
Lockie's Perfection and Rochford's Market, are good 
winter sorts. 
Stagnant Water. — G.: A few scraps of hoop iron 
placed in water which has been left to stand in tanks 
will banish the bad smell arising therefrom. The 
reason for this is a chemical one ; the sulphur com¬ 
pound evolved from the water combines with the 
iron and leaves the water quite sweet. 
Fertilising Grapes.— A. N.\ Many cultivated 
American Grapes will not produce perfect bunches 
unless cross pollinated by some more fertile variety. 
Experiments are in progress to discover the most 
fertile varieties for this purpose. 
Window Boxes.— R. : Window boxes formed of 
strong boards, firmly joined and set upon a pair of 
iron brackets can be used by any person. The front 
of the box may be covered with floor oil, choosing a 
design that will appear like tile work. Even if 
nothing else than fourpence worth of Tropaeolums 
