October 8, 1900. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
87 
MOTHERWELL FLORAL ASSOCIATION. 
The members of this progressive horticultural 
society are not contented with the usual routine of 
meetings and an annual flower show, but must needs 
finish up the season with an excursion to some place 
of interest. Their choice this year fell on Rothesay, 
the popular Clyde watering place and home of several 
florists well known in the horticultural world. On 
Saturday, the 15th ult., the members, to the number 
of nineteen, were met on landing at Rothesay pier, 
by Mr. Michael Cuthbertson. After a visit of 
inspection to the nurseries of Messrs. Dobbie & Co., 
and the Public Park Nurseries, the company drove 
to Mount Stuart, the princely seat of the Marquis 
of Bute. A walk through the grounds and garden 
and a view of the lordly mansion was greatly 
enjoyed. 
On returning to Rothesay the company met in the 
Bute Hotel to do honour to Mr. Cuthbertson, of the 
Public Park Nursery. Mr. Angus, gardener to Lord 
Hamilton, of Dalzell, presented Mr. Cuthbertson 
with the medal (a handsome silver one), which he 
won for herbaceous flowers at their recent show and 
complimented him in winning not only first prize but 
also the special prize for the most meritorious 
exhibit in the show. Mr. Angus expressed the wish 
of the committee that Mr. Cuthbertson would again 
be an exhibitor next year, especially as they intended 
offering still greater inducement to leading growers 
to come and compete. 
Mr. Cuthbertson thanked Mr. Angus for the very 
beautiful medal, which he said was in keeping with 
the other two he had had the honour of receiving 
from his society. He was glad that the new 
departure they had made in trying to popularise 
their show had met with such signal success. They 
were going on the same lines which had led to 
success at Shrewsbury and elsewhere and he expected 
that soon their show would be the greatest annual 
event of its kind in Lanarkshire. With such able 
and energetic workers as Mr. King, their secretary, 
Mr. Angus and the other members of committee, 
such a result was sure to follow. Mr. Cuthbertson 
said that by their kind words and still kinder actions 
they had placed him underastrong obligation to again 
exhibit at their show and he assured them it would 
be something very serious which would prevent him 
being there next year. (Applause.) He concluded 
by wishing the Motherwell Floral Association every 
success—a thing they well deserved. 
The company afterwards returned by the Gourock 
steamer all thoroughly well pleased with their day’s 
outing. 
VIOLETS: CULTURAL HINTS. 
When the Violets are lifted in the autumn, a frame, 
or a warm sheltered border, should be prepared for 
their reception. The aspect should be south or 
south-west; for whilst it is quite possible for Violets 
to get too much sun in the summer, it is impossible 
to give them more than enough in the winter. If 
the soil be naturally stiff, it will be improved by the 
admixture of a little rotten stable manure and leaf 
soil, with soot in moderation. Plant the Violets 
firmly, allowing from 12 in. to 14 in. from plant to 
plant for the singles, and from 9 in. to 10 in. for the 
doubles. The distances will vary somewhat with 
the size of the clumps. Thoroughly water after 
planting, and keep them tolerably close, and shaded 
if necessary, for a few days only. As soon as the 
roots begin to move freely, the full sun and air will 
be extremely beneficial. Never keep the frames 
close, and when the lights are on they should be 
raised either at the back or the sides, and on fine dry 
days may be removed altogether. The excessive 
rains will injure frame Violets far more than frost, 
and the lights are necessary to keep the plants from 
becoming sodden during the dull days of winter. 
Stir up the soil occasionally, top-dress now and then 
with a mixture of soot and fine soil, which will tend 
to keep things sweet, and when compelled to water, 
let it be done on a mild morning. Remove all 
yellow and decaying leaves, and keep everything 
fresh and clean. 
In the ordinary course of things, cuttings will have 
been rooted in the autumn, having been taken from 
the clumps before lifting. These will be in good 
order in April for planting out, but where this has 
been neglected, young plants should be purchased, 
as the old clumps are absolutely worthless. Plant 
these firmly in a cool position, and if fairly treated 
they will make good crowns for lifting again in the 
autumn. Cow dung is the best manure for Violets 
grown in light soils. Watering must not be neglected 
during the summer months. Runners should be 
removed, especially where fine blooms are indispen¬ 
sable ; and the plants must be kept free from red 
spider and leaf diseases. For the red spider, syringe 
with a solution of soft soap, two ounces to a gallon 
of water, on the lower sides of the leaves. The best 
way to exterminate leaf diseases is to pick off and 
burn every leaf as soon as it is seen to be effected. 
If this be promptly done it is more than likely that 
the disease will quickly disappear. 
The best single Violets are: La France, Princess 
of Wales, Luxonne, Victoria, Comtesse Edmund du 
Tertre, Kaiser Wilhelm II , Smith's Seedling, 
Amiral Avellao, and White Czar. 
The best double Violets are: Mrs. J. J. Astor,Marie 
Louise, Comte de Brazza, Lady Hume Campbell, 
De Parme, Coolcronin, Cannell's Blue and White, 
Carter's Mazarine Blue, Blanche de Chevreuse, 
Belle de Chataney, and King of Violets.— J. C. 
House, Westbury-on-Trym, Bristol. 
VEGETABLE CROPS AND FIRM SOIL. 
I have seen much of the rough and ready system of 
preparing soil by market gardeners followed by the 
best results, excellent ctops (in the Brassica class of 
vegetables) being taken from soils which have had a 
minimum of cultivation. For example, Coleworts 
and autumn Cabbage were put into ground from 
which Onions had been cleared off; the plants in¬ 
serted with a sharp iron pointed dibber or crowbar. 
Broccoli is rendered hardy and less likely to be 
destroyed by severe weather when put into solid, 
undug ground. It has in all cases where I have seen 
this system adopted been dwarf, of medium growth, 
and rendered hardy. Cauliflower for latest supply, 
say from October to December, does capitally in 
stiff land. Plenty of space and a fair supply of 
manure is best for summer Cauliflower. I have had, 
years ago, excellent winter Spinach from plants in¬ 
serted in drills after Onions were cleared off. Early 
in September, this year, I have about the most 
promising late Cabbage on ground where Straw¬ 
berries were cleared off; it was very firm ground, but 
growth is all I could desire. Turnips sown on land 
under the conditions indicated come in well for 
autumn and winter supplies; growth is moderate, 
and the bulbs sound and juicy. I have seen in 
market gardens excellent Strawberries grown 
on solid ground, unbroken when the plants 
were inserted, during spring and early summer ; but 
for root and some other crops ground cannot be too 
loose. This season I have tried Onions on uobroken 
ground. The result, compared with seed sown on 
well dug ground and rendered firm by treading, is 
the bulbs are rather smaller and have ripened 
earlier. We have several friends who have adopted 
the firm ground system for years who would not be 
induced to act otherwise. They also economise 
labour.— M. Temple, Canon, N.B. 
HARDY FRUIT DARDEN. 
Root Pruning.— This operation is one of the most 
important of any in the routine of fruit culture. 
Hundreds of years ago the cultivators understood as 
much as we do now about grafting, branch pruning, 
manuring, and planting. But they did not suspect 
that anything vital could be done by any other 
manipulation. Root pruning is comparatively a 
latter-day innovation. Root cramping is one way 
of harbouring and confining the energies of roots. 
It is virtually a system of root pruning. And yet no 
method is better adapted to cause trees to be fruit¬ 
ful and to remain so. In the quality and state of 
the roots lie all the secret of success or failure in 
fruit tree culture. The roots are to the tree what the 
stomach is to animals. If our stomachs are out of 
order, deranged, and upturned we are—we all know 
what. But this root pruning business has its intri¬ 
cacies. The present is the best time of any to go 
about the work. Young and vigorous trees which, 
if left alone, might result in.grand samples of timber 
growth, can be checked and hav6 their superabun¬ 
dant energies thrown back upon themselves to form 
stout wood bristling with fertile flower buds. It is 
wisest only to do a little pruning, say half, at the 
first start. The other half may be completed in a 
fortnight’s time when the effects (if any) of the first 
half of the pruning have been tided over. Begin 
about 3 ft. or 4 ft. from the stem of the tree and 
take out a trench all around to a depth of 2 ft. 
When the extremities of the roots have been laid 
bare, prune them cleanly with a sharply oblique cut 
from the underside upwards. All fine fibrous roots 
should be spread out, only the strong-growing roots 
about the thickness of a pencil or thicker being in 
need of pruning. When filling in the soil have a 
quantity of charcoal, old Chrysanthemum soil, and 
perhaps some good maiden loam to mix with that 
which has been excavated. Make this firm when 
refilling. All stone fruits as Plums, Peaches, &c., 
should have a quantity of lime added to the soil. 
Strawberries . —The Strawberry plantations 
ought to be cleaned and trimmed up for the season. 
Detach and lift all runners which may have been 
left between the rows and plant them in lines in some 
of the borders. Then stretch a line along the out¬ 
sides of the old plant rows and cut the too-far 
spreading foliage close to the line by means of a 
spade. The spaces between the lines should be 
hoed and raked, to be slightly forked over at a later 
date. The young Strawberry plantations should be 
hoed over, the breaking of the surface in this way 
being beneficial. The old beds or plantations may 
be mulched where manure can be afforded for the 
purpose. 
Raspberries which have done bearing for the 
summer should be cut away and young suckers tied 
in in their place. New plantations may be made 
now from the young suckers, which can be lifted 
from old plants. We like to see the Raspberries 
mulched before the end of November, both to save 
them and to aid the roots, for they are gross 
feeders. 
Apricots may be loosened from the wall after the 
leaves have fallen. In the meantime all one's time 
is held engaged in looking after the fruits. When they 
have been gathered the trees should be well cleaned 
by syringing. Other fruits should be gathered and 
carefully stored (as before advised) when they 
ripen.— J, H. D. 
- « 1 - — — 
tub Orctiid Growers’ calendar. 
Shading. —We shall be washing off all the whiting 
that was put oa at the ends of the houses, and at 
places where the blinds did not meet, this week. 
The roller blinds, however, we shall leave for a time 
intact, as in country districts such as ours the atmo¬ 
sphere is much clearer, and the sun as yet has a 
great deal of power. Again the position of the 
houses makes all the difference with those running 
north and south. The sun's rays strike the glass 
obliquely, and the occupants are not so liable to 
become scorched, but with the houses running east 
and west as ours do the sun shines straight on to 
the glass on the south side, necessitating the use of 
blinds at least a few hours during the middle of 
bright days even in October. Those similarly 
placed will therefore do well to bear this in mind, 
and use the blinds judiciously for the next week or 
two. 
Cleaning Down. —Take advantage of dull wet 
days to thoroughly clean down the glass and stages 
inside, also free the pots from any green that may 
have accumulated during the summer months. 
In addition to cleaning the receptacle, it is very 
necessary that the plants themselves be overhauled, 
sponging the leaves, &c., being careful not to damage 
the sheaths or flower spikes that are well up. A 
little soft soap in tepid water is all we use for 
sponging, always steering clear of dangerous insecti¬ 
cides for Orchids. 
Fire Heat. —During the early autumn months it 
is not necessary to fire much, perhaps, but the 
nights are getting long, and the atmosphere becomes 
heavily laden with moisture, so that unless the hot 
water be allowed to circulate gently through the 
pipes everything feels clammy when you enter the 
houses in the morning. Of course, I am thinking 
now of the so-called cool houses. The plants having 
been recently potted and making great headway, 
must be encourged to make up their growths as 
early as is consistent with the nature of the plants.— 
S. C. 
