October 13, 1 BOO- 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
103 
Mr. Andrew Stephen, for the last twelve months 
gardener to Col. Auchterlonie, The Guind.Arbroath, 
has been appointed gardener to Mrs. Gray. Mr. 
Stephen enters on his duties on the 28th November 
next. 
Mr. Alexander Duncan, for the past three years 
gardener to Mrs. Gray, of Carse Gray, Forfar t has 
been appointed head gardener to Mrs. Grimond, 
Carbet Castle, Broughty Ferry. He enters on his 
new duties on the 12th November next. 
Famine in Greece.—Further advice from Southern 
Greece and the Ionian Islands confirm the reports 
recently received in this country by the Greek 
Consul-General and others to the effect that the 
Currant crop is almost entirely destroyed by the 
blight Peronospora. Instead of the yield being 
160,000 tons, it will not exceed 38,000 tons. Against 
this, consumers in the United Kingdom require for 
use on Christmas Day alone 17,500 tons, whilst 
between now and Yuletide, we want some 35,000 
tons in addition. Since the arrival of the first 
steamer, the prices of Currants have gone up very 
high. The Vostizza grades are fetching from 75s. to 
80s. and even nos. per cwt. Ordinarily, they fetch 
from 22s. to 35s. per cwt. The outlook is gloomy, 
as there is reason to fear that Currants will be hard 
to procure, even at famine prices. The cultivators 
and labourers in Greece are ruined, and subscrip¬ 
tions are already being asked for, and some well 
known firms have given considerable sums. 
Plants Certificated by the Royal Horticultural 
Society.— The list of fruits, vegetables, plants, 
flowers, Ferns, and Orchids, which have received 
Certificates from the Royal Horticultural Society 
during the period extending from 1859 to 1899, has 
been brought up to the latter date and published. 
The list, as might have been expected, is a lengthy 
one, running to 210 pages. For the most part it 
serves as a mere record of what has been done, and 
in this it no doubt serves its purpose. Every 
exhibitor of new plants should make a point of 
securing a copy of the list, so as to prevent the stag¬ 
ing of old plants for certificates, which may already 
have received such an award. By so doing the 
exhibitor would save himself some disappointment 
and the committee a great deal of wasted time ; for 
subjects coming up for certificate a second time are 
of fairly frequent occurrence. In looking over the 
list one wonders whether all the plants that have 
received the coveted award from the R.H.S. are still 
in existence, even in the case of long-lived plants. In 
the case of florists' flowers one can always take it for 
granted that m any of them get superseded by others 
of greater meri t as the years roll by. Others again 
may have been lost through neglect or accident. A 
few may still be cherished in private establish¬ 
ments, and cherished by those who appreciate them. 
The fact remains, however, that many of the plants 
and flowers never become popular in the ordinary 
acceptance of the te.rm, but become gradually for¬ 
gotten. This, after alt, is no doubt the fate of many 
plants, because there is such a thing as fashion in 
the plant world as in ev erything else. Some there 
are, no doubt, whose me,'its are not recognised at 
first sight; but if they fail to get the desired award at 
first, someone is sure .to bring them up again when 
their merits have been proved by longer experience 
and cultural treatment. Some of the longer lists of 
certificated plants include Chrysanthemums, 
Aspidiums, Aspleniums, Begonias, Carnations, 
Hippeastrums,, Gladioli, Paeonies, Pelargoniums, 
Rhododendrous, Roses, flcolopendrium, Cattleyas, 
Cypripediums, Dendrobiums, Laelias, Laelio- 
cattleyas, Oclontoglossums, Masdevallias, &c. The 
information about Orchids is systematised in five 
columns, thfi parentage of hybrids being given, 
exhibitors* names, dates, cla^s of award, &c. 
« » - - 
AHUM LILY PLANTING. 
TVe very often see Arum Lilies knocked out of their 
pots after they have flowered in the spring and then 
planted out into a spare piece of ground, which I 
know is the practice in many places. I find that if 
they are left in their pots and kiapt rather dry, and 
then shaken out and potted about the first week in 
June into a compost of two parts fibrous loam, one 
of decayed manure, a little soot and bonemeal, and 
some sharp sand, if watered with care, they start 
into growth and flower much earlier and more pro¬ 
fusely than those that were planted out, because they 
get good soil and no check in growth like the others 
that have to be lilted, and, which is often the case, 
rammed into pots which are far too small. They 
must receive a check, and we know it takes some 
time to recover. I have tried both ways, and I see 
it now by my neighbour which is the best way. 
When they are well advanced in growth give them 
an occasional watering with manure and soot water. 
I am sorry to see that the Godfrey Calla is not more 
grown in this district. Surely it is an improvement 
for its gracefulness in foliage and purity in the 
flower ? It does not throw up suckers with me very 
freely, but it can be purchased from Mr. Godfrey, 
Exmouth, Devon.— W. H. B. 
GATHERING AND STORING FRUIT. 
Once more the season is at hand when the gardener's 
time and attention are chiefly occupied in gathering 
and housing his different varieties of fruits. I need 
hardly mention the enormous quantities of fruit 
this season, and with some it is indeed “The harvest 
is great but the labourers are few." The gathering 
of the different kinds needs a little forethought, 
especially so on the part of an amateur who might 
think he could take them as they come. Whether 
Apples or Pears, one variety may look quite ready 
to come off, when such is not the case. You might 
ask how can I tell ? The plan to test a fruit 
whether ready or not, as I was taught as a lad in 
my earlier days, was to lift the fruit with the hand 
upwards. If ready it will leave the spur quite 
easily and can be taken to its place in the truit room. 
A word as to the laying of the fruit on the rack. I 
find a little soft hay is best laid down before placing 
the fruit on. If room can be spared a single layer is 
best for the overlooking which is needed at times to 
remove those gone, a bit wrong as we say. If the 
fruit room is not at all capable of being well venti¬ 
lated, the fruit is best laid thinly, and no hay under¬ 
neath it, as a close atmosphere causes dampness to 
settle on the fruit.—S. J., Frithesden. 
“ROSE CUTTINGS.” 
We can never have too many Roses, and the present 
is the best time to increase the stock of specially 
good varieties. It is the minority not the majority 
of gardeners who have ihe power of ordering a new 
stock from a nursery whenever they wish, so must 
try the next best plan by putting in cuttings them¬ 
selves. The operation of putting in a few dozen 
cuttings of our best sorts is so simple, and the result 
is so certain, that it is worth all the trouble. My 
method is to make a hole in a sheltered corner 20 in. 
deep and 2$ ft. square. I put some old turf broken 
into pieces, 2 in. sq , in the bottom, then fill up with 
a mixture of two parts sand, two parts loam, and one 
part leaf-mould put through a | in. riddle. I make 
it pretty firm, and finish with a J in. of sand on the 
top. Take good strong shoots off with heels, and 
if possible from 1 ft. to 16 in. long, and dibble them 
in with a long stick a little thicker than the cuttings, 
4 in. apart, leaving only three or four buds above the 
soil. Give them a soaking of water, and during the 
time of severe frost cover over with a few bushy 
spruce branches. At least 80 per cent, will root. It 
is better not to disturb them until the following 
autumn, when they should be shifted with care.— 
John C. Dick, The Gardens, Champfleurie, Linlithgow. 
BEGONIA GLOIRE DE SCEAUX. 
A word in reference to that fine winter-flowering 
Begonia Gloire de Sceaux, as I think it ought to 
have a more prominent place in our gardens, and its 
culture more spoken of in our journals. I find it a 
great boon for winter decorations in the conservatory 
after "Mums" have left, until the bulb family 
comes in, besides its usefulness on banquet tables, 
as it is too bold and clumpy for small tables. Its 
culture is simple. After flowering we put them into 
a cool house and withhold water. They will soon go 
to rest for a period ; and when growth recommences 
we shake them out, and any that are too large are 
divided, and all potted in clean, well drained pots 
according to their size, in a compost of fibrous loam, 
two parts; leaf soil, one part: mortar rubble, half 
part; with sharp sand to keep the whole in a porous 
condition. I place them in a temperature of about 
6o°, never allowing it above 70^, with slight shading 
during strong sunshine. A damping over on bright 
days benefits them greatly, and a moist atmosphere. 
They can be easily struck from cuttings taken when 
about 2 in. long, inserted in sandy soil, and com¬ 
mitted to the propagating case. A slight aid in 
artificial manures when the pots are full of roots 
about concludes their requirements.— James Reid, 
Viceregal Gardens, Phoenix Park , Dublin. 
--*«- 
Kitcfien Garden calendar. 
Broccoli. —As this is one of our most important 
spring vegetables, it is essential that every care 
should be taken to ensure the plants passing safely 
through the winter, for during severe weather unless 
some precaution be taken to prevent the stems from 
being seriously injured, many of the plants will 
fail to produce any hearts in spring. On cold, stiff 
land, and in low-lying situations, Broccoli suffer far 
more than on high ground fully exposed. This is 
easily accounted for, seeing that on the latter 
growth is matured as it is made, while in the former, 
on account of excess of moisture in the atmosphere, 
this is not so. Frost, too, is usually more severe in 
low grounds than on more elevated places. In 
gardens, the soil is in far better heart than in fields 
where large breadths of these are often grown for 
market, and when the autumn rains descend growth 
becomes stimulated. It is, Therefore, desirable to 
give it a check, and this may be done in the following 
manner:—If the rows run from east to west, take 
out a trench on the north side of the first row, then 
with the spade from the south side carefully lift 
each plant and lean it to the north. Having com¬ 
pleted the first row, take out another trench and 
place the soil over the stems of those that have been 
laid down. The second row should be treated in 
like manner, and so on until the whole of the plot 
has been completed. There are two advantages to 
be gained by layering Broccoli in this manner ; the 
first checks over-luxuriant growth, while the other 
leaves far less stem to be exposed to the weather, 
and the foliage, instead of falling away from the 
stems when the frost comes, lays flat and protects 
the hearts. We have often observed after a very 
severe winter, many of the Broccoli destroyed, 
whereas by adopting this simple plan they might 
have been saved. Early Broccoli and late Cauli¬ 
flower are now turning in. I can never remember 
the latter being so cheap, plenty being offered in the 
markets at sixpence per dozen. It is quite evident 
they cannot be grown for the money, to say nothing 
of labour in marketing. This, however, has nothing 
to do with private growers, whose aim should be to 
supply their employer's table with the best and have 
a continual succession through the winter and 
spring. Any that are now turning in should have 
the leaves brought together and tied round with a 
bit of raffia; this is far better than binding them 
over the hearts as in this latter they are liable to be 
blown off by rough winds, and so leave the hearts 
exposed just at the time they ought to be covered. 
Any that are ready for use may be pulled up and 
stored away in a cool place. They will keep fresh 
for a few days if not required for immediate use. 
Storing Roots will now require attention. 
Carrots and Beetroot ought to be the first to receive 
attention. Choose a fine day for lifting, then the 
soil will fall off and leave the roots clean. They 
should be taken and stocked at once in a cool shed, 
where they can be protected from frost. The cooler 
such roots are kept the better, as they do not then 
start into growth. If no shed or cellar be available, 
they may be put in clumps the same as Potatos. In 
this latter case, it will be necessary to cover with 
litter in case of severe frost. Enough, too, should be 
kept in reserve for present use, as it is not advisable 
to open such clamps and so expose the roots to the 
air, for by so doing many are liable to get spoiled. 
Salsify and Scorzonera may be stored in like 
manner, reserving none but the best-formed, well- 
developed roots. In the case of Turnips, Parsnips 
and Celeriac, these are best left in the ground aid 
lifted as they are required. The latter, however, 
must be protected in case of severe frost. This is 
best done by taking up every other row for present 
use and drawing the soil over those remaining from 
between the rows so as to form ridges, and after¬ 
wards cover the same with litter to exclude the 
frost.— F. W. J. 
