118 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
October 20, 1900. 
Kir. A. Hubbard, recently gardener to Mrs. Burn, 
North Mymms Park, has been engaged by Mrs. 
Llewelly ne, Baglan Hall, Bicton Ferry, South 
Wales, in place of Mr. Gilbert, who is going into 
business. 
The Society for the Protection of Birds is offering 
two prizes, of £io and /s respectively, for the best 
papers on the protection of British birds. The mode 
of dealing with the subject is left entirely to com¬ 
petitors, but among the points suggested for treat¬ 
ment, are the utilisation and enforcement of the 
present Acts and County Council Orders , the modi¬ 
fication or improvement of the law ; educational 
methods; and the best means of influencing land- 
owners, and gamekeepers, agriculturists and gar¬ 
deners, collectors, birdcatcbers, and birdnesters. 
Essays are to be sent in by November 30th. Partic¬ 
ulars may be obtained from the hon. sec., at the 
society’s offices, 3, Hanover Square, London, W. — 
Mrs. F. E. Lemon, Eon. Secretary. 
Speedy Flowering of Nymphaea stellata.—Mr. 
James HudsoD, gardener to Leopold de Rothschild, 
Esq., Gunnersbury House, Acton, W., sowed some 
seeds ot Nymphaea stellata in February last. The 
seedlings were planted out of thumb pots on the 
third day of the Temple Show. The leaves were 
then about the size of a florin, but before the end of 
August they were 14 in. to 15 in. in diameter, which 
was large even for this species, and the plants were 
in full bloom. That seems to us to be pretty quick 
work, making the plants behave as if they were 
annuals. We need not overlook the fact, however, 
that Victoria regia reaches the flowering stage in the 
same period of time. It needs to be shown, how¬ 
ever, that other Water Lilies can be grown to the 
flowering stage in the same period of time; and in 
the case of N. stellata it has been accomplished. 
PRACTICAL SWEET PEA CULTURE. 
To be successful in obtaining the richer shades of 
thes$ popular flowers, varied stimulants must be 
employed. Kainit or sulphate of potash is essential 
to superior colouring of primrose, maroon, scarlet 
and deep blue shades, as seen in Queen Victoria, 
Black Knight, Salopian and Countess Cadogan. The 
superb variety Gorgeous is worthy of its name when 
fed on sulphate of potash. This fertiliser assists the 
development of substantial blooms as it retains 
moisture in the soil, a condition essential to the 
production of superior Sweet Peas. Both these 
potassic substances are indirectly soluble, so should 
be placed in the under soil during autumn or early 
winter, at the rate 1 oz. to ij oz. per square yard. 
Soft red and rose shades as Lady Mary Currie, 
Prince of Wales, and the striped variety Coronet, 
do best with sulphate of ammonia. If not overdone 
this manure gives grand results in size and colour of 
flowers; but it must be remembered plants gorged 
with sulphate of ammonia will produce coarse and 
tainted flowers. Half an ounce to the square yard is 
ample, which should be worked through the under 
" spit ” at time of sowing or planting. Light shades, 
such as Lady G. Hamilton, Venus, Prima Donna, 
and the superb white flowered variety Blanche 
Burpee, are decidedly improved in substantial 
transparency by a mixture in equal parts of super¬ 
phosphate and sulphate of ammonia, 1 oz. to 2 oz. per 
square, yard at time of sowing. True, these substan¬ 
ces are soluble, but I write from practical results 
obtained in the present season of 1900, therefore 
offer no apology to scientist or theorist. I am not, 
however, prepared to say that the substances 
enumerated would be best for all soils — rather other¬ 
wise. The soil I deal with is heavy loam on stiff 
clay subsoil, and rather favourable to Sweet Pea 
culture. It is also in good heart from previous 
supplies of farmyard manure, leaf soil, ground 
gypsum, &c. So readers with poor soil might profit¬ 
ably employ the larger allowance of artificials recom¬ 
mended, and those with rich soil the lesser quantity. 
Autumn sowings have never succeeded with me, so I 
resort to 6-in. pots filled with soil consisting of three 
parts fibrous loam, one part leaf soil, one part sand, 
thoroughly mixed. Six seeds are planted £ in. deep 
in each pot, placed in an ordinary greenhouse about 
the middle of February. At the end of March they 
are taken to a cold frame, matted well for a few 
nights, gradually hardened off, then planted in their 
flowering quarters from middle to end of May. I 
make a point 10 supply rods in good time, and 
after the flowers appear which, is about the first 
week of July, I remove all showing signs of decay, 
thus preventing seed pods and encouraging a plenti¬ 
ful supply for future cutting. After the end of July 
I keep my plants in good heart by alternate supplies 
of soot water and liquid from farmyard tank, mulch¬ 
ing in severe drought. The soil in which Sweet 
Peas are grown should be wet previous to applying 
liquid manures. The above twelve varieties—chang¬ 
ing countess Cadogan for Navy Blue—are very hard 
to beat. 
No flower than the Sweet Pea lends itself to such 
arrangement, and no flower reflects more credit on 
an enthusiastic floriculturist .—Henry H. Gibson, The 
Gardens, Glencairn, Belfast, October 15 th, 1900. 
-—.5-- 
MULCHING 
Is a boon to almost all plants, and I would like to 
say a word in favour of a mulch material I used last 
autumn when planting my bulbs ; and ‘again in 
spring. About February I planted several hundreds 
of Daffodils, such as Emperor, Empress, P. R. Barr, 
Princess Ida, Sir Watkin, Cernuus, and the double 
incomparabilis varieties, &c., in ordinary garden soil, 
and which, in my garden, is not of the best. The 
material used was Jadoo Fibre, which I had direct 
from Exeter; and the result of my experiment with 
the above was so very beneficial to the growth, the 
quality of the flowers, both as regards size and 
colour, that it compels me to urge those who, like 
myself, have a poor soil to give Jadoo a trial. I 
planted my bulbs in October, from 3 in. to 4 in. deep, 
rather firmly, in rows about 6 in. by 3 in. apart. When 
the bulbs were lifted they had increased amazingly, 
and had large handsome, heavy bulbs such as I had 
seldom seen. Lilium auratum bulbs, planted at the 
end of October, have flowered equally well. These, 
however, were nestling among the fibre, and some 
spikes carried as many as twenty to thirty well 
developed flowers. With Montbretias and Gladioli 
The Bride I had similar results. The Jadoo seems 
to create a strong healthy root action before the 
bulbs have made much top growth, which is very 
necessary in the successful cultivation of bulbs and 
tubers. — W. L., 109, Hither Green Lane, Lewisham. 
AMONG THE VIOLETS. 
After so many good articles that have appeared in 
your pages this season on the culture of these, there 
should be no lack of good stuff for removing under 
glass to supply the always welcomed blossoms 
during winter and spring. I have seen them tried 
under various ways, aDd come to the conclusion that 
unheated frames or pits give the best returns, the 
Violet being so impatient of anything in the way of 
fire heat or coddling in any shape. Ours are 
planted, or will be this week, in brick pits that grew 
early Potatos. These were three parts filled with 
freshly gathered leaves in January, and all that is 
required now is to clear out the soil (Cucumbers 
have been grown since the Potatos were lifted), and 
fill up to within 1 ft. of the woodwork with decayed 
leaves, treading it well, then replacing the said soil 
10 in. to 12 in. in depth, when all will be ready to 
receive the plants. In lifting secure good balls of 
soil with the roots; trim off all lengthy runners, 
preserving short jointed ones close up to the parent 
plants,and place the plants as closely together as the 
said ball of roots will allow, making the same quite 
firm, and well watering in after. With this treat¬ 
ment no lights need be put on for the present or shad¬ 
ing resorted to. Marie Louise and Swanley White we 
stand by.— J. Mayne, Bicton. 
- —I—- - 
SINGLE CACTUS DAHLIAS. 
The beauties and grace of the single Cactus 
varieties far exceed (in my opinion) any of the other 
sections; their light and elegant forms and vivid 
colourings all seem to lend themselves so gracefully 
to the art of the decorator. When cut and lightly 
arranged in conjunction with Gypsophila panicu- 
culata, or any light decorative grass, nothing can 
exceed their elegance. Slowly and surely they are 
pushing their charms to the front. Many are the 
remarks I have heard about them when first brought 
before the public, " thin, washy, not up to much, 
don’t care for them.” My advice to all is, to grow a 
few plants, arrange a vase when in flower, and I 
feel certain they will be pleased with the result. 
Their cultural requirements are the same as the 
other sections, without the thinning of shoots and buds 
so often recommended for the double Cactus Dahlias 
Cut with long stems in the early morning, flowers in 
a young stage. Grown in beds or borders they are 
very attractive for garden decoration, starting to 
flower early and lasting until frost cuts them off. I 
append the names of a few varieties I know to be 
useful. Queen Mary, Lady Clare, Crusader, Bruce, 
Brenda, Althaea, and Meg Merrilees, all of which 
should find a place in the garden where cut flowers 
are in request.—/!. Manson. 
IMPROVEMENTS. 
We have now reached the proper time for trans¬ 
planting all kinds of ornamental trees and shrubs ; 
and it is wonderful the improvements we can make 
on the face of this old world, and especially on the 
rough corners, when we get the wherewithal to do 
it. One with a quick eye for the ornamental can 
easily notice spcts where a few finer trees or shrubs 
would brighten them up. Every planter should 
aim at what is likely to succeed, and none are better 
for this purpose than the double Crataegus or Haw¬ 
thorn, double Cherry, Cytisus, Syringas, Purple 
Beech, red-leaved Oak, &c. Other grand objects for 
pleasure grounds are the many varieties of weeping 
trees, such as Weeping Lime, Ash, Elm, Birch, and 
Willows, especially if there is a pond or cascade in 
the neighbourhood. Then there are the different 
beautiful forms and colours of the Maples or Acers. 
There is always satisfaction in planting this class of 
trees as they increase in size and beauty every year, 
and even add to the value of a property. For moist 
and shady corners the golden and silver Hollies do 
well; also Rhododendrons, Azaleas, Ribes, Weigelas, 
Coniferae, &c. In planting it is necessary to make a 
good sized pit for each; and if the natural soil is 
poor, give a mixture of rotten turf and old leaf soil, 
for the first mentioned class of trees. The others 
thrive better if a good proportion of fibrous peat is 
added.— J. C. Dick, Chamffleurie, Linlithgow. 
BRUSSELS SPROUTS. 
For the present and winter use this is one of our 
most useful vegetables, and a little anxiety might be 
caused at the looseness of the early Sprouts ( 
especially on light soils. This I attribute in a great 
measure to dryness of the season, which caused 
them to be so long in growing. One should get 
amongst them, and some of the leaves will be acci- 
pentally broken off; if not, a few should be removed 
where they are too thick, so that light and air can 
play their part. If the weather still continues dry a 
good soaking of water or manure water should be 
given, and it will be found that growth is much 
quicker, the Sprouts larger and firmer. When Sprouts 
are required early the tops ought to be taken off a 
few of the strongest. By so doing more vigour is 
thrown into them, though some by no means agree 
with this, averring that they are more liable to be in¬ 
jured by frost through being exposed at the top of the 
stem, although they are by many taken off after the 
first few frosts. Varieties I have not mentioned, but 
am of opinion that the old Wroxton is second to none, 
and from what I have seen of the Wroxton Improved 
it is still likely to hold its own.— W. Waite, Southfields. 
POLYGONUMS. 
During the late summer and autumn there are few 
brighter and more interesting subjects in the borders 
and rock garden than the Knotweeds. They quickly 
become established, are not fastidious as to soil or 
situation, and require very little attention, except to 
keep them from encroaching on their weaker neigh¬ 
bours. To commence with the species I will first 
mention polystachyum, as one of the best. In 
October it is a wealth of blossom, branching out from 
the stems, making quite a mass of pure white flowers, 
which are deliciously fragrant. It is very useful for 
vases lasting a long time in water. Cuspidatum 
is another grand species with handsome dark green 
foliage and creamy white flowers. Sachalinense is a 
splendid plant of immense size, very striking on the 
margins of streams or lakes. Macrostachyum is a 
very good plant for the borders, with creamy white 
flowers. Amplexicaule is a charming plant, pro¬ 
ducing scarlet spikes of flowers in the autumn, and 
also very useful for vase work. Amplexicaule oxy- 
phyllum is a variety of the preceding, with feathery 
spikes of white flowers. Sphaerostachyum is a good 
alpine with carmine spikes of flowers. Brunonis, a 
great favourite and one of the best alpines, produces 
rosy-pink spikes of flower in great profusion. . Vac- 
