120 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
October 20, 1900^ 
INTS FOR MMATEURS. 
Chinese Primulas— Being very amenable to the 
artificialities set up by progressive florists, the 
Chinese Primulas, or Primroses, to be more homely, 
have, within the last decade, one might say, been 
augmented by a variety of sections. It is becom¬ 
ing a varied family. But the later changes have 
been more or less a reversion to the types of Chinese 
Primroses, which used to be grown half a century 
ago; I refer to the newer “ Star Primulas." This 
latter type has all the qualities of gracefulness and 
brightness. I think that now that gardening (which 
means gardens and flowers) is becoming so widely 
popular, and is being enthusiastically patronised by 
the most artistic and educated personalities, many 
of the old florists’ lines of development and evolu¬ 
tion for flowers will have to be given up in place of 
what we might call an artistic, a freer, and less rigid 
caste or code of rules. The undeviating exactitude 
of circular form will merge into an irregular but yet 
well-defined and pleasing flowering contour, giviDg us 
still a flower strong in substance and deep or brilliant 
in colour. And indeed nearly all the old tenets of 
rigid exactitude and oriental formality will, and is, 
breaking down before the advance of a more beauti¬ 
ful, because more reasonable, taste. Still, the old 
Chinese Primulas, the large flowered and double 
sorts, are likely to be grown and improved on the old 
florists’ lines, for the contrast of the rounded corollas 
and the curved and sinuate leaves is in keeping with 
the best of good taste. These Primroses love a cool 
atmosphere, the temperature during the whole 
period of growth never need go beyond yo Q , and 
this only at the earliest potting period. When good 
seedlings have been raised a compost largely 
composed of loam, inclined to be heavy, is suitable. 
The most preferable compost is one consisting of 
about 2J parts of good loam, and itj parts of decayed, 
dry cow manure and sand. Sowings for early spring 
flowering should be made early in June of the 
preceding year ; but for winter flowering a sowing 
may be made in March or April. Sow very thinly 
and lightly in round pans filled with light soil. Place 
these pans on the top of cocoanut fibre or sifted 
ashes, which should cover the bottom of the propa¬ 
gating case. The temperature of the house in which 
this case is placed, should not go lower than 6o° 
during the succeeding three weeks, whence the 
seedlings may be expected thro ugh the soil. The 
glass which till then is placed over the pans is partly 
or entirely removed. When two little seed leaves 
have developed to the size of threepenny pieces, the 
tiny plantlets are ready for a shift into the smallest 
thumb pots. But it is far the best plan ordinarily, 
and specially recommendable to amateur growers 
who have not their constant time to devote to the 
plants, is to " prick off” the seedlings a week after 
they have appeared through the soil, into shallow- 
boxes filled with soil only a little heavier or firmer in 
texture than that in which they have germinated. 
Place them about 4 in. apart either way, and leave 
them there so long as they are seen to be doing well, 
and are not crowding each other. Shapely plants 
are wanted, and the only way to develope nice 
specimens is to give them freedom and to turn the 
sides to the light, so that one side may not suffer 
while another is continuously favoured. From these 
boxes (which may be placed in a light, airy green¬ 
house), they must be potted into 3-in. or 4-in. pots, 
retaining as large a portion of the ball as possible 
while performing this work. Hereafter the culture 
is well enough known, and at the present time need 
not here be followed up. The plants which are 
coming into flower at the present time chiefly 
demand careful watering. They, like Cucumbers, 
Melons, and other such things, are apt to damp off. 
At the first potting the greatest attention and skill 
should be exercised to pot the little plant so that the 
lowermost leaves just touch the finished-off surface 
soil. In many gardens one sees "wobbly" plants 
which even require to be propped on the four sides 
with short stakes. These plants grow well enough, 
but they are always objects on which one requires to 
keep an extra vigilant eye, and they are liable to 
snap off just at the collar. 
Cuttings of bedding plants which may be still out¬ 
side, or may be indoors now, will require to be 
looked over, so that the many damp, dying and 
dead leaves, or even the cuttings themselves, in some 
instances may be removed. Nothing preserves the 
vitality and resistability of such cuttings as cleanli¬ 
ness and air about them. When taking out the 
leaves, or when attempting to pull them from the 
plants, do not be clumsy about the job. And it is 
necessary to press the leaves downward to unloosen 
them, rather than to pull them upward, which 
process may result in the cutting coming away with 
the leaf. The surface soil or sand may be slightly 
stirred, though this beneficial operation is not 
absolutely necessary. Avoid repeated waterings. 
As a rule the first thorough watering which is given 
after the cuttings have been newly inserted, will carry 
them through for almost half the winter. A dry soil 
should be preferred, during the cold dull months, to a 
damp one. 
Hardy Border Plants.—The propagation of many 
of the choicer hardy herbaceous plants from off¬ 
shoots and cutting's is progressing. Division is also 
quite a good method. The border may soon be 
overhauled for division and re-planting, though 
where bulbous plants are planted in numbers one is 
compelled to leave over this work until the spring. 
We all like to see the borders gay in springtime with 
Snowdrops, Crocuses, Scillas, Narcissi, and other 
flowers, but the border planting of bulbs has also its 
drawbacks. 
Salvias.—The brilliant flowers of the Salvia are 
now blazing in gardens all over the land. What a 
splendid plant Salvia splendens really is ! There has 
recently been introduced an improved, or it is said 
to be an improved form of S. splendens named 
Ruhum du Stuttgart. It is undoubtedly a vigorous 
and handsome variety, and may well be taken notice 
of by growers. 
The only point to be insisted on in the culture of 
Salvias at the present time is not to allow those in 
flower to suffer at any time for want of water, nor to 
subject them to a drying atmosphere. Under both 
circumstances they are sure to drop many of their 
flowers, and if not that, they go all the more quickly 
past. 
Cyclamens.—Treat these in the same way as 
Cinerarias and Zonal Pelargoniums. A place in a 
light span-roofed house, such as I described and 
recommended a short while ago, ought, if it is at all 
possible, to be accorded to them. I advised that 
one house (it need only be a small one) be set apart 
for the " Zonals " and the Cyclamen, each to occupy 
one side of the house. Their needs are so much 
alike that this arrangement works admirably, and 
from good plants a steady supply of blooms can be 
cut all through the winter. It is very strongly 
advised to keep the hot-water pipes at medium heat, 
unless when the weather is bright and agreeable for 
growth. By so doing the ventilators can be kept 
open in nearly all weathers, much or little air being 
given according to the prevailing conditions. The 
air is thus kept circulating, and being mild or even 
warm, one might say, it takes up the moisture which 
lies above or is intentionally sprinkled for the benefit 
of the plants. A medium temperature of 6o° at 
night up to 65° or 68° throughout the day should be 
held as sufficient. 
Recently Potted Bulbs which are making roots 
under the cover of fibre or (preferably) ashes should 
be examined at short intervals to make certain of the 
state of their growth. Many bulbs are nigh being 
spoilt because of being too long withheld from the 
light after having sprouted into growth. It does not 
take one long to turn aside the covering and to re¬ 
place it if the signs are not favourable for the exposing 
of the bulbs. 
Solanum jasminoides is at the present time in 
flower in the open air, where it is grown in favour¬ 
able gardens. Cuttings of the young growths, which 
will.soon appear, may be taken and struck in small 
pots filled with a light compost. It is a very worthy 
greenhouse climber. 
Cannae.—Strong tubers of these should now be 
sought out for immediate potting. They may be 
subjected to an intermediate house temperature, and 
treatment similar to what one accords to a Dracaena 
or Tuberose. The plants now coming into flower 
require a liberal supply of water and some liquid 
manure as feeding. 
The Season.—This is a season when the thoughts 
now turn to many plans yet to be formulated and put 
into action. The winter is close upon us, and 
though October is turning out well, for which we are 
thankful, yet everything should be done to prepare 
the garden, the houses, and the work they entail, to 
proceed properly and well, and to be fitted for hard 
weather, or rain and storms which might come at 
very short notice.— Beacon. 
Correspondence. 
Questions ashed by amateurs on any subject pertaining 
to gardens or gardening will be answered on this page. 
Anyone may give additional or more explanatory answers 
to questions that have already appeared. Those who desire 
their communications to appear on this page should write 
"Amateurs' Page " on the top of their letters. 
Greengages unhealthy.— J. Wood ; Your trees 
appear to have been starved more than anything else. 
Prune the old dead wood off closely and remove at 
the same time any useless “ spray," which is weakly 
shoots. The roots may be laid bare toward the end 
of the month and the present soil should be enriched 
by a prepared compost which may then be incorpor¬ 
ated. If the roots are in bad order this will conclu¬ 
sively prove that the soil is very much in need of 
renewal. The drainage should be ample, seeing tne N 
sub-soil, according to your cognisances, is gravelly. 
Add half a barrow load of lime to the soil. A top 
mulch of sappy manure would also be beneficial. 
During next growing season supply liquid manure, 
and sprinkle over top dressings of superphosphate 
and nitrate of soda. 
Roses going bad.— L. F. : We fear the soil is far 
too stiff, and a foot deep is beyond all rule. True 
enough Roses in general like a fairly stiff soil, but 
not absolutely one of a clayey, consistency. We advise 
you to lift them and plant elsewhere, or else greatly 
improve the existing soil by adding five or six barrow 
loads of road scrapings and light soil to one of the 
clay. After the soils have been thoroughly worked 
and broken up, plant the Roses say from 5 in. to 6 in. 
deep, spreading the roots out and making them 
moderately firm. Leave the pruning of them till 
spring. 
Rustic seats.— John : Provided you have abund¬ 
ance of material—rugged and knotted branches, 
barked and dried, you ought to be able to place to¬ 
gether a substantial framework, and this done, work 
in a “ rustic ” pattern with the branches. A saw, a 
chisel, a hammer, and some nails would be quite 
sufficient. 
Sand below Bulbs — C. : This good practice saves 
the bulbs from damp and possible rotting. It is 
advisable to place a handful of coarse sand below all 
choice bulbs, especially Liliums growing in a tenac¬ 
ious soil. 
Scented Pelargoniums out-of-doors during 
Winter.—If we remember rightly we have seen 
scented Pelargonium Radula and P. r. majus, besides 
the Oak-leaved species (P. quercifolium) stand the 
winter in mid-Yorks. Severe winters would assuredly 
kill them, but firm-wooded established plants can 
hold out against a mild winter. 
Crinum Moorei.— A. L. S. : Keep the bulbs on 
the dry side during the winter, and we advise you to 
give them the protection of a fruit house or other 
cool structure through the winter. They do succeed 
out of doors in favoured corners in the South of 
England gardens. 
Lapageria rosea.— Henry Bell ; Perhaps the soil 
has become too soddened and too compressed. You 
could not do better than add a considerable quantity 
of the broken coke and coal cinders, it delights in 
such stuff. Coarse sand may also be liberally added. 
See to it that the water has free passage from the 
soil. You could re-arrange and regulate the shoots 
and growths of the plants, extracting all needless 
shoots in doing so. 
Propagating Pelargoniums.— F. J.: You may 
successfully propagate both the fancy and the zonal 
Pelargoniums by cuttings. These you ought to be 
able to get just now in quantity. The fancy varieties 
are resting for the winter, but they have plenty of 
shrubby growths. Well developed zonals which 
have been in flower during the summer will also be 
at the propagator’s disposal. Choose good, stout, 
hardened shoots, and cut off the bottom leaves to 
make a bare stem of about 4 in. in length. A clean, 
horizontal cut should be made through the stem 
below a joint. Then pans or small 2j-in. pots filled 
