186 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
October 27, 1900. 
Hints for Amateurs. 
Solanums.— Plants which have been recently lifted 
from the open ground will need to be kept close for 
a week or ten days, the atmosphere being at the 
same time moist. Solanums do remarkably well 
when they are planted out, and have free scope for 
development in an open air border during the 
warmer months of the year. The natural conditions 
of growth and the slight checks brought about when 
planting them favour their flowering, and if the 
weather is at all favourable they will set and ripen 
fruits.asa matter of course. They are usually very 
free from insect pests when so grown, and if they 
should happen to fall a prey a vigorous use of the 
syringe soon remedies their condition. In the mean¬ 
time some shade and a close, moist atmosphere will 
soon enable them to establish themselves in the fresh 
soil. 
Euphorbia fulgens (jacquiniaeflora) should be 
kept close to the glass to make the plants more last¬ 
ing when in flower. A stove temperature may be 
maintained, but on all favourable occasions do not 
omit to ventilate a little. 
Chinese Primulas.—The earliest batch of these 
may now be transferred from the frames or pits to 
the stages of the greenhouse. They may require 
some manurial assistance, and when the flower 
spikes develop the slenderest of stakes may be placed 
in for their support. 
Calceolarias.—The same hints apply to Calceo¬ 
larias, only that they do not require to be staked, or 
ought not. For that matter the Primulas may not 
need to be supported, but Primulas are brittle and 
more open to breakage. Cinerarias should likewise 
be placed upon the shelves of the greenhouse. A 
little assistance from manure water will help them. 
Avoid in the case of all these plants too dry an atmo¬ 
sphere. Of course, this does not imply a damp con¬ 
dition of things. 
Rhubarb and Seakale. — The active forcing 
operations commence about the end of this month. 
Nice forcing crowns of Seakale and Rhubarb should 
now be selected in preparation for an up-to-date 
start. Leaf mould is a very good material to use 
for placing the crowns in. But as fuller hints have 
previously been given it is not necessary to repeat 
them again. 
Yiolets.—The frames which are to supply Violets 
during winter and spring will now be planted. The 
lights need only be placed over the plants on cold 
nights. But if the plants have but recently been 
removed from their summer quarters it will certainly 
help them on again if they are kept somewhat close 
in the meantime. Remove any decomposing or 
damp leaves. 
Perennial Asters in Pots. —More as a novelty or for 
obtaining dwarf exhibition stuff, or for greenhouse 
adornment, the pot culture of Michaelmas Daisies 
is tried. Cuttings are taken from the old plants in 
spring, and are treated much in the same manner as 
for Chrysanthemums. When the young slips are 
rooted they may be potted off singly,or two or three 
may be potted together in a 5-in. or 6-in. pot. Their 
culture during the summer months is of the sim¬ 
plest. They are, indeed, generally plunged and 
otherwise are treated as though they were planted 
out. When the flowering period arrives they may 
be housed, and the blooms will open clean and pure. 
If the plants are fed duriDg their later stage of 
growth the blooms are also increased in size and 
depth of colour. The pot culture tends to produce 
very bushy specimens. 
Roses. —The long shoots of the wall Roses, and 
likewise of any others which are liable to be broken 
by winds or snows during the winter season should 
should now be shortened. The Rose garden, like 
other parts of the garden in general, should have a 
final clean up before the autumn tree planting or 
other operations are undertaken. 
Roman Hyacinths.—The first batch of Roman 
Hyacinths will be ready for the greenhouse in a day 
or two, so that it will be necessary to make prepara¬ 
tion for their removal from the ash bed. Wash the 
pots when they are taken in, and place them on a 
shelf within 2 ft. from the glass. They will require 
to be staked before the flower spikes develop. All 
other bulbs which were potted at the end of August 
will now be on the move. These must be seen to, 
and treated according to their needs. Freesias and 
early Paper White Narcissi should be gently coaxed 
on in a warm, moist house, the plants being placed 
in the position which will allow them most light. 
Wood Ashes and Charred Refuse.—The value 
of wood ashes to light and medium soils is very 
generally appreciated. Wood ashes are not quite so 
beneficial to heavy clay soils, for these already con¬ 
tain as much potash as they require, and wood ashes 
principally add potash to a soil. In all but the 
heaviest clays the wood ashes tend to make the soil 
porous, so that an ordinary garden soil is also 
mechanically benefited. In very light soils, wood 
ashes would rather tend to solidify or weld such a 
body of material, for the soil would in this Case be 
looser and less cohesive than itself. Wood ashes, 
with soot mixed, do at all times furnish a most 
valuable material to dress the land with. At no 
other time of the year is there so much rubbish and 
cumbersome stuff lying about as at this, the 
autumn time. All such useless matter should be 
collected and slowly burned. It is better to burn it 
slowly, for besides giving us an equally good residue, 
we get more of it by the charring process Wood 
ashes are particularly good for Raspberries and 
Grapes .and for Strawberries. Most root crops, 
such as Turnips, Carrots, &c., also require much 
potash. But for the matter of that, wood ashes 
should be given to all fruit trees, and on the land 
which is accorded to all fast growing crops. Those 
who have success with fruit trees in districts ill- 
adapted to give good results, often owe much of 
their returns to the judicious blending of the burned 
refuse, such as Cabbage stocks, Pea and Potato 
haulms, leaves and weeds, with vegetable mould and 
farmyard manure, and the addition, probably, of 
phosphates. The latter, however, may be given 
more advantageously during the season of growth 
So you see that this system of manuring and order¬ 
ing of one's resources works on the facts that man¬ 
uring is wise, and the special ingredients of manures 
which are mostly required are three in number, 
namely, nitrogen, potash and phosphates. 
The Yinery.—The vinery is now almost at rest 
for this season The temperature should be kept 
suitable for Chrysanthemums, as though I only indi¬ 
cate in this way that coolness is desirable it is known 
that most amateurs laid out their vineries to the use 
of the Chrysanthemums at this period. The falling 
leaves of the Vines must be gathered, and the 
bunches must be gathered now or very shortly. 
Where they have been backward a little artificial 
heat kept on the pipes will have helped the ripening 
considerably. But if the Chrysanthemums are now 
in possession the heat would not be very good for 
them. It would be better to cut the bunches and 
place them in bottles if they cannot be used im¬ 
mediately. They are cut with a short stalk, which 
may be inserted into the mouth of an ordinary pint 
bottle placed obliquely and filled with water for the 
use of the Grape bunch. The Peach houses should 
receive all the air possible, and so with Fig houses, 
where the crops have been gathered. With old 
fertile Fig trees it is sometimes necessary to make 
them go to rest by keeping them dry and airing 
freely. Otherwise they keep on fruiting eternally. 
The earliest vinery may now be piepared for forcing. 
Trees and Shrubs.—Now that recent rains have 
prepared the soil for planting, this work should be 
done as soon as the necessary cleaning-up work has 
been mastered. Where there is much shifting or 
planting to do the cleaning may be deferred. Some 
think that it is improper to disturb trees before the 
leaves fall, but all our knowledge of science goes to 
prove that it is good for the plants to be shifted 
before the fall of the leaf. 
Strawberries in pots will soon require to be 
placed in the cold frames. Before taking them to 
the- frames, water them with lime water to expel the 
earthworms. 
Fuchsias. —These will now be in process of 
"drying off.” When all the leaves have fallen, 
prune the shoots. Plants which have been in the 
beds during the summer should be potted and should 
be placed away in some pit or greenhouse out of the 
reach of frost. 
•Ferns. — Those who would carry their Ferns 
through the winter with success must be careful at 
this period, lest by giving them too much water at 
the root or moisture above, they end in doing harm 
to the plants. Gymnogrammes and Cheilanthes are 
ticklish Ferns at such a time as this. Adiantums 
are also apt to damp off. But if the plants are kept 
on the dry side it seldom happens that they fail to 
any alarming extent.— Beacon. ■ 
Correspondence. 
Questions asked by amateurs on any subject pertaining 
to gardens or gardening will be answered on this page. 
Anyone may give additional or more explanatory answers 
to questions that have already appeared. Those who desire 
their communications to appear on this page should write 
"Amateurs' Page " on the top of their letters. 
Shrubs and Malmaison Carnations.— ' Row"-: 
The Malmaison Carnations are not considered hardy 
enough for the borders during winter. You should 
lift and pot the layers (as frequently advised lately) ' 
which are rooted. The plants with unrooted layers 
may be lifted from the borders and replanted within 
a frame which may possibly furnish the protection 
they demand. The pieces of shrubs you send are 
those of shrubby Veronicas, and are hardy except 
in very severe winters. No. 1 is Veronica anomala; 
No. 2 is V. pinquifolia. 
Books for Market Grower.— J. R .: While you 
can study and learn much from the guidance of 
books, we trust you also mean to have some years of 
practical experience in market gardens. Get with 
the most successful men. Books which you will find 
of value are " Profitable Fruit Growing,” by Mr. J. 
Wright, V.M.H., is. 2d. post free, from 12, Mitre 
Court Chambers, Fleet Street, E.C.; " Flower Cul¬ 
tivation for Market,” paper covers, 3d ; cloth do., 
8d.; “ Culture of -Vegetables,” 8d. ; both to be 
obtained from i, Salisbury Court, Fleet Street, Lon¬ 
don. Another book full of useful notes is Mr. W. 
P. Wright’s “ Pictorial Practical Gardening,” is. 2d., 
from Cassell & Co., Ludgate Hill, E.C. If you get 
these and study them you will find what you further 
need at a later date. 
Planting Bush Apple Trees.— A. G. : Bush Apple 
trees on the Paradise Stock are usually planted 10 ft- 
to 15 ft. apart in the rows. If you wish to plant 
bush fruits between the rows of Apples, allow about 
6 ft. between the bushes in their, case. Among the 
best late keeping dessert Apples are—Sturmer 
Pippin, Winter Queening, Cockle Pippin and Lord 
Burghley. Late cooking Apples of worth are— 
Alfriston, Northern Greening, Norfolk Beefing anti 
Blenheim Orange. You will find the following to be 
good varieties of Gooseberries—Lancashire Lad, 
Crown Bob, Warrington, Whitesmith, Early Sul¬ 
phur, Hedgehog and Industry. Raby Castle and 
Chiswick Red are good Red Currants; Versailles 
(white), and Carter's Champion (black). These may 
suit your needs. 
To Pickle Tomatos . —Amateur : The following 
receipt has been recommended tor green Tomatos or 
Tomatos which have not ripened perfectly out of 
doors, and it may answer in your case for Tomatos 
which are still firm, though nearly ripe. Slice 10 lb. 
of full-grown Tomatos into an earthenware dish or 
bowl. The Tomatos are best if taken just before 
they turn red ; small green ones, however, are use¬ 
less as they have neither flavour nor juice. Sprinkle 
each layer of slices with salt and let them remain all 
night. The next day put into two quarts of vinegar, 
2 lb. of brown vinegar and 1 lb. of sliced Onions 
(not Portugal Onions), three or four green pepper 
pods sliced, or half a teaspoonful of Cayenne pepper, 
a quarter an ounce each of cloves, cinnamon and 
peppercorns. Drain the sliced Tomatos from the 
salt and simmer it gently with the vinegar, sugar, 
Onions and spices till tender, then put the stuff into 
rather small jars, pasting paper over, or in pickle 
bottles and cork well, as it keeps better in small 
quantity. Store in a cool, dry place. We cannot 
say that the natural flavour is wholly preserved, but 
that cannot be helped. 
Oyer-manured Land.— J. F ; All the character¬ 
istics described by you point out that your soil is too 
rich. After having buried all the dead fowls and 
animals which you make note of, besides otherwise 
manuring the land, the consequences could not be 
otherwise than to surcharge the soil, and, indeed, to 
poison it for the time being. This will account for 
the growth when first planted and for the great 
exuberance when the stronger plants became estab¬ 
lished. Dress the land heavily with quicklime and 
fork this in at any time from the present. 
Peaches for Planting.— Pomology : Unless your 
garden is warm and sheltered and possesses south 
and west walls, the culture of Peach trees in the 1 
