November 17, 1900. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
183 
HERBACEOUS BORDERS. 
If flowers are wanted in the open all the year round 
we must have a good herbaceous border to depend 
on, where Christmas Roses and winter Aconites can 
be gathered from now on to January; Snowdrops, 
Crocuses, and Hepaticas with the beautiful white 
Arabis in February. March brings some of the 
Anemones, Daffodils, Primroses, and Aubrietias. As 
the days lengthen in April we have more Daffodils, 
Tulips, Jonquils, and Hyacinths. After that a great 
many different varieties soon come on in succession, 
such as Aquilegias, Campanulas, Irises, Paeonies, 
Roses, and Gaillardias. In the autumn months we 
have Montbretias, Chrysanthemums, Sunflowers, 
and many varieties of the Aster or Michaelmas 
Daisy. Herbaceous borders ought to be from io ft. 
to 15 ft. or more wide, as a better arranged border 
can be made where there is plenty of width to work 
on. It should be trenched two spits deep, burying 
plenty of old leaves and rotten manure with any old 
potting soil added. Herbaceous borders are gener¬ 
ally planted with a different variety of plant time 
about; but, where big lots of one colour of flower 
are wanted, I prefer planting clumps of five to ten 
plants of each variety at a distance of 2 ft. between 
the lines, and 3 ft. between the plants, as.it saves a 
lot of tramping in through your border. The three 
back lines should be planted with the tallest growing 
plants, keeping the next three for a smaller size, and 
the rest for lesser varieties.— Thomas S. Dick, Castle 
Milk Gardens, Lockerbie, N.B. 
ICE HOUSE FILLING. 
This is an important operation in those establish¬ 
ments where the ice house exists; and the first 
opportunity should be taken in case the weather 
should prove fickle and a second chance not occur. 
Where there is a large expanse of water, this work is 
much easier than where several ponds have to be 
drawn on for a sufficiency to fill the house. A good 
stage should be constructed by the side of the water, 
where it is most convenient to back the carts to and 
draw away. By throwing the ice on to a stage it can 
be shovelled into the carts in a clean state, and thus 
save annoyance to the butler, which must be the 
case as I have seen it—a mixture of ice and mud ! 
When thrown into the house, ice should be broken 
and rammed to fill up interstices. The ice house 
should be furnished with a drain to carry away the 
moisture, although an ingress of air must not be 
allowed through the drain, as that would cause the 
ice to waste. In those good old fashioned places 
where the park is bounded by a wall, preferably 
facing the north, an ice heap may be formed, that 
will come in for the first demands ; and save open¬ 
ing the house as long as possible. Cover the heap 
with a good coating of saw-dust; surround it by a 
post-and-rail fence, thus preventing the attentions of 
cattle roaming the park.— George Potts, Streatham, 
S. W., November 12 th. 
STOKING. 
There are few things more important in the cultiva¬ 
tion of plants and fruit under glass than the skilful 
management of the fires, and there may be some 
young readers of The Gardening World to whom 
a few hints on this subject maybe useful. Now to 
take the two fuels most generally used, anthracite 
coal and coke, the former is decidedly the best, 
although I have known it to be discarded because its 
requirements were not understood. It is more 
durable, gives greater and steadier heat, and makes 
little ash or clinkers. The essential point is to have 
a good draught, therefore use coal quite free from 
dust; next, never disturb the fire unless to remove a 
clinker. Clean the bars from underneath by passing 
the clinker iron backwards and forwards between 
them. The dust can be disposed of by making it 
damp and banking the front of the fire up with it at 
night. It is, perhaps, unnecessary to make any 
remarks regarding coke, as it is more generally used, 
and will burn under almost any conditions ; but 
whichever fuel is used the following rules should be 
remembered:—Always keep the flues clean, for dust 
is a non-conductor and consequently wastes fuel ; 
keep the ashpit clear; no fire will burn properly 
without. At this season always start the fire early 
in the afternoon; it is much easier to keep up the 
required heat and can easily be controlled by the 
damper.— G. Robins, The Gardens, Dudley House, 
Springrove, lsleworth. 
THE BEST ASTERS. 
In a recent issue of The Gardening World I read 
with much interest a list of some of the best Asters, 
and I should like to give my experience of the best 
from a collection numbering one hundred and fifty 
varieties. I propose giving them in their order of 
flowering with the colours. 
Early Varieties. —Thompsonii, light blue ; 
laevigatus, pink; acris, pale blue; Henryi, dark 
blue ; Shortii, blue; Nancy, light blue ; T. Smith, 
large blue. 
Mid-season Varieties. — Cordifolius albulus, 
drooping white ; Arcturus, dark blue ; Cottage Maid, 
pale blue; Mrs. Raynor, bright red ; diffusus albus, 
white ; pulchellus, purplish-blue; laevis floribunda, 
blue ; cordifolius elegans, lavender; cordifolius 
majus, pale blue; F. W. Burbidge, large blue; um- 
bellatus, distinct white; White Spray, white; 
Amellus Stella, large blue; ptarmicoides, white; 
Coombe Fishacre, pink ; vimineus Cassiope, white, 
golden centre; spectabilis, dark blue; Amellus 
Riverslea, dark blue; densus, dense blue: cordi¬ 
folius Diana, pale lavender; asteroides, whitish- 
pink ; John Wood, white ; Ella, very large blue. 
Late Varieties. —Dumosus, white, pink centre ; 
ericoides, pendulous, white; diffusus horizontalis, 
deep red centre; multiflorus, small white ; Maia, 
very fine blue; Chapmanii, blue, light habit; 
Walter B. Childs, deep blue, very good. 
Very Late Varieties. —These commence to 
flower in November and will be found extremely 
useful. Tradescanti, white; turbinellus, blue; 
diffusus pendulus, good white; Amellus Framfieldi, 
the best Amellus variety ; grandiflorus, fine purple. 
— A. Thatcher, Elstree. 
GARDENERS OF THE OLD STYLE. 
There is no mistake, they were all right in their day 
and generation, and large Leeks and Onions and big 
bunches of Grapes were just as much in evidence 
then as now. Still, it’s just as well, perhaps, the 
" oldsters ” are passing over to the majority. Their 
ways were their own. 
I remember curious little happenings about many 
of them, which cause a reminiscent smile even now. 
One old worthy who had been thirty years in one 
situation, was detected by the lady of the manor 
lying on the garden walk senseless and speechless. 
In great haste she ran to the Colonel, exclaiming as 
she dragged him to the scene, *' John's drunk! ” 
"Nonsense, my dear," tranquilly said her better- 
half, " the man's tired; he’s just resting himself." 
John was indeed very, very tired. Another fell an 
easy victim to thimble-riggers, and was extricated 
from his plight by our head partner and my father 
locking up the sharper, and compelling him to dis¬ 
gorge his plunder. An old friend of mine had a long 
road to travel home from the station, and an inci¬ 
dental fence to climb. In order to do so 
untrammelled, he stuck his new umbrella in the mud, 
and manfully struggled over. Alas, the umbrella 
didn't. It stayed right there. Another I knew, who 
when his employer used to buy seeds from a firm he 
did not approve of, used to quietly hold them over 
the fire on a shovel till all was safe, and then 
triumphantly exhibit the result in crop failures of 
changing seedsmen. 
One old man used to use a wet rag as a thermom¬ 
eter in winter. He claimed it beat all as a frost 
indicator. I know one gardener who never con¬ 
fesses to ignorance of a plant name to his employer, 
and if you should hear some of the improvised 
names you would have a fit. Still another I saw 
sowing white and blue Campanulas in a box, at either 
end, with no division between them. He expected 
to raise a crop for sale, but it beats me to know how 
he would tell them apart. It is good that gardeners 
are extricating themselves from the state of vassalage 
which was theirs so long, and elevating their calling 
to a profession.—C. Macquarie, Chicago. 
Solanums.— These beautiful berried plants are 
yearly grown in increased quantities. Like the 
fruited Citruses (Oranges), they are attractive 
objects and are decorative for at least four months 
of the year. The Oranges, of course, would last 
longer if one allowed them to, but a change is in 
their case necessary. Solanums will best carry 
through the winter if they are kept in a house with 
a temperature of from 58® to 65°. The bygrometric 
conditions should lie at the happy medium—neither 
too moist, nor too dry. Solanums should be kept 
rather dry at the root, but not so dry as to try the 
resistive power of the leaves. As a rule they are 
free from pests, and when they are infested a vigor¬ 
ous syringing with warm water and petroleum emul¬ 
sion will refreshen and brighten them. 
Cinerarias, Calceolarias and Cyclamen all 
receive the same methods of cultural treatment at 
this time. In each of their cases, what may be 
termed a nice growing temperature, somewhat cool, 
say 50® to 60°, should be maintained. Cyclamens 
that are beginning to flower may be made to share a 
house with Zonal Pelargoniums, and while receiving 
a constant supply of fresh air, the temperature should 
certainly not be allowed to fluctuate or fall below the 
50°. Occasional weak supplies of liquid manure 
should be given to Cinerarias, Zonals and Cyclamen. 
The Calceolarias will hardly call for feeding yet. A 
late sowing of Cyclamen may be made, although we 
ourselves prefer August for commencing the year's 
routine in Cyclamen growing. Cuttings of Zonals 
which are now rooted will be found to last best if 
they are confined to the small pots for as long a 
period as possible. This encourages hard growth 
from the first. Suckers must be removed from the 
Cinerarias that are about to flower. Steady develop¬ 
ment in their case gives far the most satisfactory 
results—good blooms, large heads, deep colour and 
lasting qualities I hope to see the "Star Cine¬ 
rarias ” (C. stellata varieties) in great evidence this 
year ; nothing beats them. 
Primulas. —What has been written in reference to 
Cinerarias is applicable to the Primulas. Here also 
the old-fashioned type has again come to the front 
under the appellation of Star Primulas. They are 
very graceful and worthy of appreciation. The 
Lady furnishes a good type of this section. The 
Messrs. Cannell have also joined the large flowering 
qualities of the improved Primula sinensis, to the 
graceful and free-branching habit of P. stellata. 
Chrysanthemums. —The chief duty of the ardent 
Chrysanthemum grower during the present passing 
weeks is to keep a look-out for valuable new varie¬ 
ties. By the reports on the various collections 
situated in different quarters of the land he will be 
better able to judge how the recent introductions 
are behaving and which of them are likely to become 
lasting favourites. In the cultural routine a moder¬ 
ately dry and cool atmosphere should be aimed at. 
It requires a constant but slight circulation of heat 
to maintain the proper condition' of things, but it is 
always best for the sake of the plants to do so. Be 
careful not to " slush " water about, and plants in 
full bloom are better to be kept rather on the dry, 
than the wet side. 
Lily of the Valley will now be put in for 
Christmas forcing. Select only stout crowns and 
pot them in pans, and these pans may then be 
placed in a darkened forcing house. 
Violets in pots must necessarily be kept on 
shelves in the greenhouse or in pits or frames 
adapted to them. In some gardens they seem to 
grow without any trouble and do well; whereas in 
others no amount of care seems to have any effect. 
They require " knowing," but when once the 
best place for them has been discovered and the 
method of culture has been determined these should 
be closely followed afterwards. 
Freesias. —Freesias for Christmas or earlier are 
now on the shelves of the Cyclamen and Zonal 
house. They require to be fed about three times a 
week. In a very short while the flower spikes will t 
be appearing from those bulbs potted in August, and 
when seen they will be placed into a warmer house, 
from 63® to 68®. At present the leaves are about 
4-lns. long. 
Bulbs and Plants for Forcing. —Many of the 
earlier potted bulbs, including Narcissi, Roman 
Hyacinths, &c., should be placed in an intermediate 
house for gentle forcing. Lilacs, Azaleas and Deut- 
zias must shortly be brought in for the same purpose. 
Hardy Rhododendrons when boxed off can be forced 
early In the new year. 
Potting. —All plants in need of potting, and this 
may include stove plants, Lapagerias, Palms, &c., 
must be attended to. Climbers past flowering may 
be pruned.— J. 11 . D. 
