THE GARDENING WORLD. 
December 1, 1900. 
214 
THE ERADICATION OF MEALY BUG 
AND SCALE. 
The best method of doing this is by the " gas treat¬ 
ment,” especially in vineries and Peach houses. 
First calculate the number of cubic feet in the house 
to be fumigated, and for every ioo cubic ft. get \ oz. 
of potassium cyanide, i oz. of sulphuric acid, and 
J oz. of water. For the cyanide make boxes with 
sliding tin bottoms {to which attach a wire or string 
to pass through ventilator or wall) to hold from 2 oz. 
to 3 oz. of the cyanide. Underneath each box, 
which should be at least 3 ft. from any foliage, place 
a soup plate, so that the contents of the box fall into 
it when the false bottom is removed. In the evening 
shut up the house closely, after putting the acid and 
water in the soup plates and placing the box con¬ 
taining the potassium cyanide in position over it. 
Pull out the false bottoms of the boxes by the string 
or wire through the ventilator, thus causing the 
cyanide to fall into the acid mixture in the soup 
plate beneath. Early next morning ventilate freely 
from outside, as the gas is very poisonous. Do not 
fumigate in the light, or scorching may result. Of 
course, delicate foliage plants will not stand this 
treatment, but for vineries and Peach houses it is an 
invaluable remedy. Be very careful when doing the 
above, as both the cyanide and the gas produced are 
very poisonous indeed.— C. J. G. 
-«*•- 
MUSHROOMS. 
Mushrooms are at all times in demand, especially 
in winter when they are said to be forced, although 
it is hardly correct to say that they are really forced 
in winter, for the necessary conditions to their 
culture are more easily given in winter than in the 
strong heat of summer. From 50° to 6o° is quite 
warm enough to grow mushrooms. The dung 
should be gathered from hard fed horses, and put 
into a heap for a few days, and then spread out, 
after which put it again into a heap, and allow it to 
remain five days, when it will be fit to make a bed, 
which must be no deeper than 1 ft. after it is trodden 
firm. It must be well firmed, as a more lasting heat 
can be kept in it by doing so. As soon as the heat 
rises to 75° or 80° it is ready to receive spawD. 
Half a bushel will do a bed from 8 ft. to 10 ft. 
square. Break the spawn into pieces about the size 
of a walnut or less than a hen : s egg. Plant it in the 
manure 2 in. deep and 9 in. apart. After you get 
the bed spawned cover with 2 in. of turfy soil. Keep 
a damp atmosphere in the house by syringing the 
roof and walls twice daily. A thin covering of clean 
straw will keep the bed much warmer, and this can 
get a slight spray with the syringe.— T. S. Dick. 
Castlemilk Gardens, Lockerbie, N.B. 
-- X — - -— 
HARDY CYCLAMEN. 
Every rock and hardy Fern garden should possess 
a liberal quantity of these beautiful hardy Cyclamen 
or " Sow Bread.” They are easy of cultivation, and 
will stand the rigours of even the mdst severe 
winters. The winter-flowering kinds will send up 
their dainty little flowers while the ground is yet 
carpeted with snow. Although they thrive in almost 
any fairly open soil, the most suitable compost is an 
open, porous, sandy peat, with a proportion of lime¬ 
stone well mixed, and mortar rubbish sprinkled 
about them each spring. 
They delight in raised positions, slightly shaded, 
such as sloping banks and under the shelter of Elm 
or other trees where the superfluous moisture is 
absorbed by their roots, as they seem impatient of 
stagnant moisture. I have seen Cyclamen Coum in 
huge masses in Cornwall flowering abundantly, 
and where they luxuriate amazingly, seeding and 
spreading as an ill weed in the shade of the beautiful 
Embothrium, and also in the crevices of ali mestone 
wall, where they have taken possession and bloom 
every year unheeded. Their habitat is widely dis 
tributed in Italy, Greece, and the Mediteranean 
littoral. The varieties Coum, a beautful red ; iberi- 
cum and var. album ; repandum flower from January 
to May; and europaeum from June to October; 
neapolitanum, afrlcanum, cilicicum, from September 
to December. The leaves add considerably to their 
beauty, whether in marginal lines intermixed with 
Snowdrops, Winter Aconites, Squills, or amongst 
hardy Ferns being marbled and veined, with the under 
surface of a purplish tint.—IF. L., Hither tureen Lane, 
Lemskam. 
THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
As the plants pass out of flower they should be at 
once cut down to within two or three inches of the 
base, thinning out all weakly shoots where at all 
crowded, and placing the plants in quite a cool 
structure and as near the glass as circumstances will 
allow. A cold frame or pit is an ideal position, 
packing a few leaves or strawy litter between the 
pots to protect them from frost, covering the glass 
at night as a further precaution, and giving an abun¬ 
dance of air during the day. In two or three weeks 
sturdy, well-matured cuttings should be forthcoming 
from the majority of plants. Those that are shy in 
pushing from the base should be shaken fairly clear 
of old soil, placed in smaller pots and given shelter 
in a Peach house or vinery just closed. In making 
the cuttings, let them be from three to four inches in 
length, dibbling in same in previously prepared 
3-in. pots of loam and leaf-soil, with a dash of sand 
on top, three to five cuttings in a pot. Water in 
with a rose can and place in a cold frame with 
cocoanut fibre as plunging material, closely matting 
up each night, tilting up the lights a little for an 
hour each morning to keep the foliage dry, and 
removing any decaying foliage daily. If hard 
weather is feared, the frame could be placed in a 
cool house, raising same near the glass roof.— J. L. 
Reynolds, Stoke Fleming, near Dartmouth. 
THE PROTECTION OF CHOICE 
SHRUBS IN WINTER. 
In many parts of the country some of our most 
beautiful shrubs are not sufficiently hardy to with¬ 
stand a severe winter, and where this is so, means 
should be taken to protect them. Even the slightest 
protection will often bring them through our hardest 
weather. Those most liable to be harmed are Pip- 
tanthus nepalensis (the evergreen Laburnum), Car¬ 
pentaria californica, Fremontia californica, Pitto- 
sporum eugenioides, Phlomis fruticosa, Raphiolepis 
japonica, Benthamia fragifera, Buddleia Colvillei, 
Eucryphia pinnatifida, Veronica Traversii, Nyssa 
sylvatica, Caryopteris Mastacanthus and the white 
variety albus. All the Ceanothus require protection; 
we had C. Gloire de Versailles killed stone dead 
last winter. Berberidopsis corallina, Indigofera 
decora, I. decora alba, I. gerardiana, Teucrium lati- 
folium, Viburnum Sieboldii, V. macrocephalum, and 
Erythrina Crista-galli also require protection. The 
best way to protect the shrubby specimens is to put 
some stout stakes round the plant close to the lower 
branches, and tie all tightly together at the top. 
Then place the protecting material all round, inside 
the stakes and tie with string, so as to prevent any 
blowing about. In the case of wall shrubs, drive a 
few nails in round the plant and tie the material 
over it. The common Bracken is (capital for this 
purpose, and a good quantity should be obtained in 
the autumn and kept in the dry, ready for use when 
required.— A. Thatcher, Aldenham, Elstree. 
PLANTS FOR HOUSE DECORATION. 
The production of plants for house decoration 
figures largely in the routine work of most gardening 
establishments at the present day In addition to 
providing a good stock of Palms, Ferns, Codiaeums, 
Cordylines, &c., the provision of smaller plants 
suitable for hiding the pots of larger subjects when 
arranged in stands or other receptacles, should not 
be overlooked. Such plants as Panicum variegatum, 
Tradescantia zebrina, Pellionia Daveauana, Pilea 
muscosa, Fittonia Verschaffeltii and F. argyroneura 
are eminently adapted for this purpose, as they are 
readily propagated and quickly grown. Cuttings 
inserted thickly in 3-in. pots filled with light sandy 
soil, quickly strike root in a propagating case, and if 
grown on in a house having a minimum temperature 
of 6o°, make plants fit for use in about eight weeks. 
It is advisable to harden off the plants slightly before 
using, by placing in a lower temperature, as when 
Used for decoration they last longer in good condi¬ 
tion. When removed from the mansion the condition 
of the plants is such that it is not worth while to 
retain them,but a fresh batch of cuttings should be put 
in, and the old plants consigned to the rubbish heap. 
Besides the plants mentioned, small plants of 
Isolepis gracilis and Carex brunnea variegata are 
very useful and may be readily increased by division. 
Small Ferns of such genera as Adiantum and Pteris 
are indispensable. No difficulty should be experi¬ 
enced in raising a good stock from spores.— E. C. 
RUDBECKIA SPECIOSA. 
This charming autumn-flowering perennial is 
decidedly one of the best for the herbaceous or 
mixed garden border. Its large Daisy-like flowers 
of golden petals surrounding a disc of rich, dark 
velvet make it for size and colour all that can be 
desired. The flower stems are wiry and long, and 
from their durable nature cause the flowers to last 
long in a cut state. As a rule flowers look best 
arranged with their own foliage, but I prefer the 
Rudbeckia flowers placed thinly amongst lanceolate 
foliage. Green or variegated leaves of Anthericums 
lend a pleasing effect placed amongst and pointing 
above, with common-berried Asparagus below. The 
effect is enhanced if Palms or Cycads are placed in 
proximity. Rudbeckia speciosa is positively hardy 
in the most exposed parts of the British Isles. It is 
low growing in foliage, sending up flower stems 2 ft. 
high, freely producing abundance of cut bloom from 
early in August to well into November. It does not 
like annual transplantation, as it flowers more 
freely when allowed to remain some years in 
a comparatively rich medium loam which 
should be well drained. It is easily propagated by 
division in early spring, or it may be obtained from 
seed. Where, however, stock is limited it may be 
lifted after flowering, and divided to single crowns, 
and given the protection of a cold frame during 
winter.— Henry H. Gibson, The Gardens, Giencairn, 
Belfast. 
■" 1 .— 
MISTAKES IN FRUIT CULTURE. 
Mr. Geo. Bunyard, V.M.H., lectured before the 
Fellows of the R.H.S. in the Drill Hall, on Tuesday, 
November 20th, his subject being " Mistakes in 
Fruit Growing.” In opening, Mr. Bunyard said his 
paper was principally intended for amateurs. Not¬ 
withstanding all the teachings, either written, oral 
or practical, each season brought to light fresh 
instances of wrong treatment. Very frequently 
it happens that trees are much too deeply planted. 
The roots cannot thrive when they are out of the 
influence of sunshine (warmth) and air. These are 
necessary if healthy action is expected. All Apples 
on the Paradise stock and Pears on the Quince 
should be planted one inch below the junction of the 
stock and scion. Trees on the free stock should be 
planted as close to the surface as possible. The 
line of mark shown on such plants as they come 
from the nursery will be a sufficient guide. All 
trees sink a little after being planted. It is thus 
advisable to plant orchard trees slightly higher than 
their ultimate level to allow for this sinking. A very 
little higher will do if the soil is well firmed around 
them when planting. Wall trees should not be 
wholly fastened or nailed-up till the springtime. 
All fruit trees delight in a firm root hold. It is 
thus advisable to leave 3 ft. of firm alley or undis¬ 
turbed border next the wall, when trees are nailed 
on it. Brick walls are great absorbents of moisture, 
so that watering is really far oftener needed than the 
average cultivator imagines. Sometimes the borders 
are low on one side of the wall and high on the 
other. Under these conditions, the low side is 
likely to be moist, while the higher side is dry. 
This is not conducive to healthfulness and fruitful¬ 
ness. 
In pruning, espaliers are sometimes pruned too 
early in summer simply to secure a tidy appearance. 
Other trees in the gardens of inexperienced amateurs 
appear as though they had been “ stubbed ” hard in 
with a pair of shears. To remedy trees so treated, 
the boughs should be thinned out, and the shoots 
may be allowed to grow for a couple of years; the 
pruning merely taking the form of regulating. 
Mr. Bunyard advised that cordons after planting 
should be trained up straight till they reach the top 
of the wall. They might then be root pruned and 
trained out obliquely. When trees are root pruned, 
especially if they have not dropped their foliage 
(September, October), they should be syringed over¬ 
head twice or thrice during the day. They may even 
require a light shading. 
A word was devoted to the subject of thinning 
fruits. The folly of not thinning has been demon¬ 
strated in many instances this year. The gathering 
and means for preserving the trees from insect 
attacks were discussed. Cleanliness all around the 
trees was one of the first means to prevent aphides 
from appearing. The refuse heap of the garden 
should be as widely removed from the orchard or 
