232 
December 8, 1900. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
INTS for Amateurs. 
TREES AND SHRUBS. 
The Witch Hazel (Hamamelis arborea) is 
another yellow flowering shrub of interest, and is 
useful. It begins to bloom when the snow and frosts 
are prevalent in February. The flowers are very 
curious. Select for it a good garden soil. 
Hippophae rhamnoides, or Sea Buckthorn,is beau¬ 
tiful under certain conditions. It is found naturally 
by the sea coast, and large quantities of it grow on 
the sea board of the Firth of Forth at Gosford. The 
salt waves send their spray over the bushes, and 
though they have not subdued the bushes their effect 
is noticed by the checked state of the growth. The 
young buds are effectually shortened each spring— 
and this natural system of pruning has resulted in a 
dense thicket of growth. The Buckthorns are 
dioecious, that is, there are individual male and 
female specimens, distinct and separate, so that when 
planting, a number of male and female plants should 
be mixed. Hippophae rhamnoides with its 
grayish-silvery leaves and orange berries, is a dis¬ 
tinctly ornamental subject on marshy land or by 
the sides of lakes. 
Gingko biloba or Maidenhair tree ought to be 
more frequently planted as a foliage subject. It does 
not grow fast, but forms a handsome tree in time. 
In exposed situations it requires the protection of a 
wall. 
Fraxinus Ornus, commonly called the Manna Ash, 
flowers towards summer. A full-sized tree is a dis¬ 
tinct object of attraction when in flower. Dry sandy 
soil rends to create floriferous specimens. 
Halesia tetraptera with its beautiful appellation 
of " Snowdrop Tree,” is one of the fine subjects that 
are only suited for warm quarters, and must have 
sunny south walls in northern districts. When such 
trees are grown on walls they are out of character, 
and their grace is certainly abolished. The droop¬ 
ing fascicles of flowers are pure white, and each little 
blossom included in the fascicle is likened to a small 
Snowdrop. Like a Deutzia, would be a more fitting 
comparison, however. A deep rich, light soil is 
most to their liking. 
Hedysarum multijugum. — All who have seen 
this pretty dwarf shrub speak well of it. It has only 
been about sixteen years in this country, but during 
that period has gained a strong hold. It flowers 
from midsummer till October, bearing purplish 
racemes. The foliage is of bright green colour, and 
resembles that of a Swainsonia or Indigofera. It 
does well in a well prepared bed or border in a sunny 
and fairly open position. The height of it is limited 
to a few feet. 
Then there are numerous Hydrangeas[now-a-days 
that are quite hardy. It is time some more liberal 
use was made of H. japonica variegata, H. panicu- 
lata grandiflora, and H. Thomas Hogg, which 
certainly require some care, but are worthy of it. 
Paulownia imperialis.—In the early part of the 
year, that is to say, about May, the leaves of cut¬ 
back plants of Paulownia imperialis are like those of 
a great Sunflower only that they are fleshier and 
stronger. The tree (for it developes to the propor¬ 
tions of a tref) is used in London parks and gardens, 
but is usually confined to a single stem. Each 
season the summer growth is cut hard back, leaving 
only about three good eyes or even only one. One 
of the shoots which start in spring is allowed to grow 
straight up, the others are removed. In some cases 
only one bud is left, with the result that if this is 
injured or killed the tree is spoilt. Paulownia enjoys 
a deep, light, rich soil. It is usual to mulch the 
roots in autumn or winter. The Foxglove-like 
flowers are purplish-violet and spotted ; but the tree, 
unfortunately, requires a favoured place to succeed 
perfectly. It might more frequently be tried, 
however. 
Kerria japonica is a vigorous and free-growing 
shrub, having bright yellow flowers and leaves like 
those of an Elm tree. The flowers endure for a 
considerable length of time, beginning their display 
about April. There are also a double flowered and 
a variegated variety. 
The Ribes, or flowering Currants, as they are 
called, are well appreciated. R. aureum is both 
ornamental in foliage and attractive in flower, yet is 
the least frequently seen. R. sanguineum, R. atro- 
rubens, R, speciosum, R. gordonianum, R. multi- 
florum and R. aureum may be chosen if a number of 
kinds are desired. A half shaded position on well- 
drained loam presents itself as the best place for 
them. 
Spiraeas.—This genus is an exceedingly compre¬ 
hensive one and includes a list of very fine orna¬ 
mental and flowering shrubs. But though there are 
many beautiful species and varieties there are others 
only valuable in the botanical collection, either to 
add completeness or for the sake of some special 
feature of theirs. For the attractiveness of their 
flowers I would recommend S. Anthony Waterer 
whose pretty pink and creamy shoots and foliage are 
also pretty ; S. bella, S. Thunbergii and S. confusa. 
The foliage of S. sorbifolia is its chief feature of 
value in my eyes. When kept pruned this species 
throws up strong shoots 6 ft. high. 
The latter should be planted in a moderately 
heavy soil. The shrubby Spiraeas, as a rule, are 
found doing well in a variety of soils and situations. 
Their needs or desires are best met by planting them 
where they will enjoy abundance of light, air and 
rain. They, in common with the other subjects 
named, can now be planted. 
Weigelas.—The name now recognised for this 
genus is Diervilla, but so few care to change from the 
name so universally known, that it may still be main¬ 
tained. "these are somewhat like the shrubby 
Spiraeas in their adaptability to many different cir¬ 
cumstances. They are certainly among the hardiest 
and loveliest of ornamental shrubs. They can be 
formed into hedges or beds, or merely planted here 
and there in the shrubbery. I have also seen them 
trained like Raspberries to a sort of rustic impromptu 
fence to act as a screen, and to furnish the appear¬ 
ance of cosiness. They enjoy the heavier qualities of 
soils, though any other sort comes not amiss. The 
prevailing system of planting in large gardens is that 
of spacious beds, filled with one species or variety 
only. Weigela (Diervilla) amabilis and rosea are 
two of the oldest and most popular. W. Eva 
Rathke is a vigorous sort, having large trusses of 
crimson flowers which last a long time. W. car- 
minea and W. Candida, pink and white respectively, 
may suffice in the matter of variety. The soil 
should be well prepared for the plants, and 
moderately firm planting is advisable. In the matter 
of pruning (and all shrubs should be attended to in this 
respect) it is only needful to do very light pruning in 
the case of Weigelas. When they have finished 
flowering in May, the flowering shoots should be 
shortened and thinned out. The summer's wood, 
and the wood of the previous seasons will furnish 
that from which the next year's flowers will appear. 
Any pruning that is necessary with Prunus triloba, 
Chimonanthus fragrans, Spiraea bella, and other 
things should also be done immediately after flower¬ 
ing, but not in winter or spring. Still, in pruning a 
great deal depends on circumstances. 
The Greenhouse.—Soon the earliest of the forced 
bulbs will be in season. The Roman Hyacinths 
indeed have been in bloom for some time. On no 
account allow the plunged bulbs to become etiolated 
else their value as flowering plants will be impaired. 
The plants of Primulas floribunda in large 4-incb 
pots can now be had in flower. Be careful when 
watering these plants, for they are liable to damp at 
the neck. Violets in pots may now be brought into 
the greenhouse and they will require lots of care. 
Do not feed them but place them where the fullest 
light can be had. Chinese Primulas, and Cinerarias 
will be in full bloom presently. In the meantime 
do not starve the latter, especially if they are in 
small pots, say 5 in., as they ought to be. I always 
have found the sturdiest, surest, and most lasting 
plants among those grown in the smaller sized pots. 
Calceolarias should be confined to the shelves. 
Freesias, though outside the greenhouse, at present 
will soon be included among its occupants. At 
present the plants should be in a warm house (65°) 
and should be fed twice a week, using the liquid weak 
and tepid. The flower spikes of the earliiest and 
selected batch should now be showing. These will 
come in just before Christmas. Chrysanthemums 
as they pass out of bloom should be cut down, and 
may be carried to a cool fruit house there to remain 
till the cuttings are taken. The earliest batches of 
cuttings, which will include those of early autumn 
flowering varieties, may be put into shallow boxes 
filled with sand. Place these on the stages of span 
roofed houses having a temperature ranging from 
50° to 6o°. Dew these very lighly over twice a day. 
— Beacon. 
Correspondence. 
Questions ashed by amateurs on any subject pertaining 
to gardens or gardening will be answered on this page. 
Anyone may give additional or more explanatory answers 
to questions that have already appeared. Those who desire 
their communications to appear on this page should write 
"Amateurs' Page " on the top of their letters. 
What is “ rested (Chrysanthemum) Stock ? ” 
—A. O'Neill: The true term " rested stock " applies 
to plants that have been grown in the open air, and 
which are therefore under natural conditions of 
growth, as opposed to plants or stock that have been 
fed up and protected for the sake of producing heavy 
blooms. Rested stock also applies to plants whose 
flowers may have been cut fairly early in the season 
—say anytime during October—and which were 
immediately afterwards planted or placed either out 
of doors or in absolutely cool houses. The term is 
used rather loosely, but to sum up, it maybe applied 
to those plants that are allowed to produce their 
cuttings under natural conditions, and not in any 
way forced. 
Treatment of Chrysanthemums after flowering. 
A. O'Neill : Keep them in a cool house, or even out 
of doors. Water them when they require water. 
The idea should be to treat the plants so that they 
will produce sturdy cuttings. 
Can Carnations be planted now?— L.F.: They 
may, for the season is open ; but for your own 
benefit and their safety we would recommend you to 
pot them and place them under the protection of a 
fiame during winter. 
Marechal Niel Rose in a cool greenhouse.— 
R. S. T.: When this Rose is planted out it generally 
thrives rather better than it does in pots. Opinions 
differ greatly about whether it should be allowed to 
grow on its own roots or upon those of the Manetti 
stock. When budded it sometimes succumbs to 
canker. On its own roots this liability is not present. 
Provide for your plant a good border, such as we 
have frequently recommended, and plant very care¬ 
fully, setting it down to the level of the previous 
ground mark which is indicated on the stem. The 
ordinary temperature at which a greenhouse is main¬ 
tained will suit this Rose. A moderate supply of 
water in the early period of its occupation of the 
border, will suffice. Do not prune it during the first 
season, and only just enough in after seasons, to 
permit strong new wood to develop and ripen. It is 
hardy in a great many parts of the country. 
Soot over Gooseberry Bushes.— R. D. : Soot can 
always be employed advantageously. There would 
be no gain, however, in casting the soot over the 
bushes at this time of year. Apply it over the sur¬ 
face of the ground. Soot mixed with quicklime and 
dusted over the Gooseberry bushes on de\yy morn¬ 
ings from March till June helps to prevent the Saw- 
flies from laying their eggs. If you have been badly 
attacked this year, remove some of the surface soil, 
and apply a light dressing of gas-lime. This must 
be employed with extreme caution. 
Top protection tor wall Fruit Trees.— R. S. T.: 
The erecting of a substantial framework into which 
glass panes could be fixed would have to be entrusted 
to a horticultural builder. When such frames are 
put up to project from the coping outwards, grooves 
are left for a certain size of pane, and these are 
placed into the grooved framework before the time 
of spring blossoming. When the fruits have been 
gathered, or even before then, the glass is taken out 
to let the trees have all the rain and weathering 
possible. Then there are the permanent glass 
ridges, whose default is that they do not expose the 
trees at the wood ripening period. Should you only 
wish to have some means of hanging a net or canvas 
over the trees during the critical period when they 
are in flower, you could secure your aim by fixing 
stout spars of wood (about half a yard long) 
close against the wall and vertical with it. You 
might have to knock in wooden pegs first 
of all, for the sake of giving the nails something 
to grip. At the top of the vertical spar fasten 
another piece, but this should slope downward at an 
angle of 45 0 . From its base a cross piece should 
unite it with the vertical spar, so that this contriv¬ 
ance looked at sideways has the shape of the 
figure 4. A few of these placed along the wall with 
