December 29, 1900. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
285 
Be careful about your details, such as watering 
and ventilation. They require about the same tem¬ 
perature as Brides and Maids, but can stand a little 
more water. I give mine a night temperature of 58° 
to 6o° with a io° increase on bright, sunny days. 
Up to this year they have been almost Black Spot 
proof with me, but the one house I have this year 
shows me that they are like most hybrid Teas, sub¬ 
ject to that dread disease. If attacked, be careful 
that every spotted leaf is removed at once. As soon as 
you see a few spots do not wait until your whole 
plant is infested; then it will be too late to check 
it. I find by using carbonate of copper dissolved in 
ammonia and about one gill to a watering can of 
water, a preventive, but not a cure. It is used by 
syringing two or three times a week. 
In conclusion, I would say, do not look for real 
good coloured Liberties before the weather gets 
cool. I have never had good blooms before Novem¬ 
ber, and you will get them a good deal finer iu 
December and January when Liberty is at its best. 
BLACK CURRANTS. 
Black Currants are popular fruits in any garden, 
and in all districts market men like Black Currants 
because the fruits can always be sold, and the private 
gardener finds always a demand either for jam¬ 
making or for tarts. Black Currant wine is also a 
favourite country tonic or preventive against colds. 
The Black Currant likes a moderately damp, 
gravelly loam, though net so gravelly as to be alto¬ 
gether light. Good bushes may be got on light soils 
by mulchings and waterings, and by the application 
of rich top-dressing. Heavy soils, too, suit Black 
Currants when once they have taken hold, and are 
going ahead. More pains should be taken at the time 
of planting when one has these less tractable, or less 
suitable soils to deal with. A sheltered corner, but 
at the same time bright and airy, should also be 
chosen. A distance of 6 ft. at least should be allowed 
each way between the bushes. Black Currants do 
not call for much pruning. The old wood is merely 
thinned out each year, and sometimes the young 
shoots are slightly shortened. The latter ought 
always to have sufficient space between themselves. 
This is essential to the fullest development of the 
wood. Like Gooseberries or Red Currants the 
Black Currant strikes readily from cuttings. These 
should be chosen from good long shoots, plump, and 
having a heel attached. 
They should be placed two-thirds their length in 
firm land, and will make nice plants by the following 
autumn. As soon as the leaves begin to fall, plant¬ 
ing may commence. Feeding may be attempted 
when the fruits are swelling. The Black Currant 
will not stand to be spur-pruned, and this consti¬ 
tutes one of the chief differences between its culture 
and that of the Red and White Currants. Crops 
that are attacked with the Black Currant Mite may 
have the swollen buds removed, and this will help 
them during the following season, but there seems 
to be no permanent cure. Badly infested bushes are 
therefore best burned. Cuttings may previously 
have been struck from clean stock for taking the 
place of the old bushes or new bushes may be got from 
the nurserymen. To prevent the Black Currant 
Moth from doing harm the bushes should be sprayed 
with a solution of Paris Green, or other matter, each 
spring.— D. 
--«- 
PROFITABLE PLUMS. 
At the present time market fruit growers are much 
inclined to favour dwarf fruit trees, especially dwarf 
Pears and Apples. And the question may be asked why 
not have dwarf Plums,even for orchard culture. When 
trees are easily get-at-able they certainly stand more 
chance of receiving the necessary cultural treatment, 
which trees, to be fertile, generally demand. Those 
who have grown dwarf Plum trees will have found 
that the fruits are superior compared with the stan¬ 
dard Plums. This, of course, results as a conse¬ 
quence of the more favourable circumstances which 
surround the growth of the trees, the setting, 
developing, and the finishing of the fruits. Dwarf 
trees should certainly always be grown by those wi f h 
smaller sized gardens. The varieties that furnish 
good dwarf trees and may be relied on in the 
generality of circumstances, are the well known 
iavourities Victoria, Czar. Pond’s Seedling, Monarch, 
Sultan, and Grand Duke. These come into season 
almost in the order we name them. Czar is very 
early, and lasts during August, September, and 
October. Victoria and Pond's Seedlings are in con¬ 
dition during September, and Grand Duke is fresh 
in October. 
Though a few other varieties could be recom¬ 
mended, the foregoing may, perhaps, suffice for 
amateur growers and those who would include only 
the most reliable sorts. The luscious Coe’s Golden 
Drop, Denniston's Superb, Magnum Bonum, Kirke's 
and others, are best adapted, and always most 
successful when grown upon south and west walls. 
The present is a suitable time to plant the trees — 
A. D. R. 
THE ASTRANTIAS. 
It is not because they are very showy that the 
Astrantias have found a place in the plant borders of 
so many British gardens, but rather because they are 
peculiarly distinct, and most suitable as an adjunct 
to the cut flower class. They last an exceedingly 
long time in bloom, and remain fresh for quite a 
while when cut. Astrantia major attains over 2 ft. 
in height, grows erect and is bushy. Each of the 
stout shoots terminates in a cluster of flowers which 
in appearance approach to the general likeness of 
Scabious, though they are of the same order as the 
Sea Hollies and the Sanicle. 
At their best the flowers are flushed with a rose 
or rose-mauve colour, but they are always dry to 
appearance, yet never unattractive. The two species 
best knows are A. major and A. helleborifolia, while 
the pretty little A. minor is frequently grown on 
rockeries. A. major extends all over the moun¬ 
tainous regions from t he Caucasus or beyond to the 
Pyrenees in the east. The foliage of them all is 
nicely divided, and adds to the general charm of 
these valuable hardy border plants. The usual mode 
of increasing a stock is by division of the plants in 
spring. A moderately heavy soil is preferable to a 
light one, and they like plenty of moisture at the 
roots.— H. 
POLLINATION IN ORCHARDS. 
In the course of an exhaustive article on this subject 
in the September number of The Canadian Horticul¬ 
turist some facts are brought to notice which are not 
recognised every day. By means of illustrations the 
writer in the above journal more aptly than by much 
argument or statistical data, proves his point that 
cross-pollination among orchard trees is good from 
all points of view. Though no one can separate 
varieties of fruit into two definite classes of self- 
sterile and self-fertile, there is known to be at the 
same time varieties which tend to be self-sterile and 
which it is not wise to plant alone. The writer gives 
lists of these so-called sterile varieties, but these are 
sorts not generally grown in this country. He then 
goes on to discuss whether such varieties as he names 
should be planted in blocks without having others of 
a different sort intermingled. “ A large block of 
Kieffer Apple may be productive, but it does not pay 
to take the risk, particularly since the pollen of other 
varieties is likely to give better fruit.” 
In selecting a pollinising variety, two points should 
be considered. Thesej’are simultaneous blooming, 
and mutual affinity. The comparative blooming of 
varieties is more or less a local problem. 
Differences of latitude, altitude, soil, nearness to 
large bodies of water, and Weather conditions 
during the blooming season, disturb the order in 
which the different varieties open. Varieties which 
bloom together at one place, may not at another. 
The best that can be done in the way of generalising 
on the question of simultaneous blooming for cross¬ 
pollination is to make a chart for each well-marked 
geographical district. 
Where fruit growing is such an industry as it is in 
parts of America, we think that the means above 
recorded are worthy of the united support of all 
fruit growers whose livelihood depends on their 
crops. Oa a lesser scale too, the same rules will 
apply to British fruit growers, or indeed to pomolo- 
gists in any quarter of the globe. 
Another point, as stated, is the mutual affinity of 
the varieties which may be chosen for cross¬ 
pollination. By affinity is meant the readiness which 
the pollen from the pollinating sort will act on the 
stigma of .the self-sterile variety. It is fairly well 
known of course that every and aoy variety is not so 
suitable as another or others. But about these 
matters, at present little of real value is known. 
The increase in size and appearance which often 
follows crossing cannot be called a true immediate 
influence, for the foreign pollen generally stimulates 
the fruit to greater growth because it is more 
acceptable to the pistils, not because it carries over 
the size—character of the variety from which it 
came. The bast way to determine whether there is 
an immediate influence of pollen is by hand crossing 
The influence, however, is said to be much less 
frequent than is commonly supposed, and the experi¬ 
ments and observations of growers have to be welt 
studied and thoroughly reasoned before reliable 
opinion can be got from them. But without going 
further it may be said that cross-pollination gives 
better results with all varieties, be they self-sterile 
or self-fertile. 
Gardening 
glSCELLANY. 
CHRYSANTHEMUM WHITE AUSTRALIE 
This white sport from the silvery lilac Jap., so well 
known under the name of Australie, originated with 
a Dutch florist. The Dutchman offered it to some 
of the French Chrysaothemists, but either his price 
was too high, or the Frenchmen did not quite 
appreciate the value of a white Australie.” Mr. 
Wells, of Earlswood, saw it this year at the Paris 
show and made an offer. The amount did not 
please the possessor of the stock, and the terms were 
not agreed to. But Mr. Wells thought, and thought 
again about that ” White Australie ” till, when he 
got home from Paris he resolved to have the stock 
at any price. He wrote, and now he has a fine lot 
of plants. 
SHRUBS FOR FORCING. 
Those who intend to force shrubs for Easter use 
should make the first of their preparations now. 
Plants well set with buds should be looked out. 
Spiraea Van Houtei, Deutzia gracilis, D. Lemoinei,. 
Forsythias, Lilacs, Azaleas from the open shrubbery 
having been carefully lifted should De potted into 
pots suitable to receive them. Lay the drainage so 
that water can pass off freely without at the same 
time bringing down soil to choke up the bottom. 
Pot the shrubs firmly in good soil and place them in 
a cool house. The operation can be more success¬ 
fully performed at this time than during the winter, 
when the ground is either wet Qr frozen. Rhodo¬ 
dendrons also force well. 
“ THE GOOD LUCK LILY.” 
It follows, as a consequence of having once grown 
the Chinese Sacred Lily, also called the Good Luck 
Lily and Joss-flower, it will be continuously grown 
each year afterwards. To those who may not pre¬ 
viously have had the pleasure of seeing this Lily 
grow and bloom we would even at the eleventh hour 
advise the purchase of a few bulbs. The bulbs have 
begun to sprout, but in about seven weeks by gentle 
forcing they can be had in flower. Their beauty is 
sweet and modest, and the fragrance very pleasant. 
For the decoration of sitting rooms the Good Luck 
Lily is eminently suited. The bulbs produce nice 
spikes when grown in shingle and supplied with 
water. Fancy bowls are usually chosen for their 
use. 
PLUMBAGO AND PELARGONIUM. 
One of the prettiest combinations I have seen is a 
pyramid formed with Plumbago capensis and a light 
rose coloured Ivy Pelargonium, trained lightly to 
Bamboo canes, standing apart on a lawn. I cannot 
say if the idea is original, but when well done the 
effect produced is elegant and charming, certainly 
well worth copying.— W. B. G. 
DATE PUDDING. 
Take J lb. stoned Dates, cut each in half, and mix 
with | lb. each of bread-crumbs, flour and finely- 
chopped suet; stir in a teaspoonful of baking- 
powder and a pinch of salt. Whip two eggs till 
very light, and work into the batter, adding a little 
milk if necessary. Place in a greased mould, and 
boil for one hour. Turn out to serve and pour a 
sweot lemon sauce round, 
