318 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
January 12, 1901. 
Qiie$Tions sod ansuieRS. 
* All correspondence relating to editorial matters 
should he addressed to “ The Editor,” 5 & 6, 
Clement's Inn. Strand, London, W.C. Business 
communications should be addressed to “The Publisher." 
Timely notes or notices about interesting matters or current 
topics relating to gardens, gardeners, or gardening, are 
always cordially welcomed. When newspapers are sent 
would our friends please mark the paragraphs or articles 
they wish us to see ? 
Preserving Coloured Vine Leaves.— Avon : The 
leaves may not retain the bright colour you desire 
for any great length of time ; but surely it is a mis¬ 
take to say that they cannot be dried wi-hout losing 
all the bright autumnal tints. Many leaves may be 
dried retaining red and other hues which they deve¬ 
lop in summer, even while still quite young. We 
have leaves of Liquidambar styraciflua gathered 
after they acquired their bright red in autumn about 
eight or ten years ago, and they are not much faded 
5 et. Of course, they have not been exposed to light. 
Not all leaves may be dried retaining their colours, 
but we think Vine leaves might be fairly well pre¬ 
served. Much depends upon the treatment they get 
during the first two or three days when being dried. 
The papers should be changed once in twenty-four 
hours, if not twice, for the first six days, and dry 
papers substituted for the wet ores. We do not like 
blotting paper as that retains too much moisture 
about the leaves and does not part with it readily. 
Ordinary newspapers would be better, or any brown 
or white paper that is not glazed but will absorb 
moisture. Blotting paper if neglected for ever so short 
a time takes the colour out of many things that may 
be readily dried, retaining a beautiful green colour 
for a long time. The plan is to get the moisture 
removed as quickly as possible before it has time to 
do harm. There is a way of colouring leaves 
artificially, but it is a tedious and troublesome 
method. If you desire it we could give you the 
general details of the method, which requires some 
trials and experience to ensure success. You might 
try the plan we give above or send us some coloured 
leaves to try. 
Position for Greenhouse.— Florist : We are not 
quite sure what you mean by " south wall." If it is 
at the south end of the garden, then the inside of the 
wall would face the north. In any case we do not 
like the direction of the house as marked in your sketch. 
One end should face the south and the other look 
towards the north, or nearly so; then you would have 
the benefit of the sun on one side of the house all the 
morning and the other all the afternoon. Except 
for early work that is how you should build the house 
to get the most advantage of the sun for plant grow¬ 
ing. Then again you should consider the surround¬ 
ings, and ascertain where the house would be most 
sheltered against the prevailing winds. The south¬ 
west winds are not very cold as a rule, but they 
would serve to keep down the temperature. Shelter 
from the north and east would be of more importance 
than almost any other quarter, as the wind from 
those quarters is always cold, even in summer ; and 
it would take a deal of fireheat to keep up 
the temperature. The heating of a house the size 
you mention could be effected by means of hot water 
pipes, hea'ed by a paraffin stove. When ordering 
the same, however, you would have to state the 
length, breadth, and height of your house, and 
whether span-roofed, so as to get the proper amount 
of piping and lamps of sufficient heating power to 
guard against severe frost. When the weather is 
relatively mild, then the lamps could be kept burn¬ 
ing low. The stove had better be placed outside so 
as to get rid of the fumes, but you would have to 
build a little shed over it to save waste of heat. In 
case you want much fireheat for early work, a small 
saddle boiler we think would give most satisfaction 
in the end. If you get good pipes to begin with, the 
saddle boiler could be fitted to them afterwards, so 
that 50U should make provision for that by having a 
joint just outside the house. Heating apparatus 
would be an advantage in enabling you to commence 
raising seeds by the beginning of March, so as to 
get all the advantage of the season, unless you can 
raise young plants elsewhere. See that no part of 
the house is shaded either by the walls or hedges of 
the garden you mention. 
Aspidium or Lastrea.— A. C. : The first name is 
not intended to include the second, even by those 
botanists who use it. Aspidium is meant to include 
all those having the round clusters of spore cases 
covered by an orbicular indusium or covering fixed 
by a stalk in the centre like a very minute Japanese 
umbrella or parasol. The rame Aspidium is meant 
to include Polystichum, Cyrtomium, Cyclodium, 
and Aspidium proper. All have this umbrella¬ 
shaped covering. Lastrea belongs to another group 
having a kidney-shaped covering to the round 
clusters of spore cases, and this indusium is fixed to 
the frond by a short stalk in the notch. Nephro- 
dium is generally employed for this group, but you 
can continue to use Lastrea if you like. There is a 
growing tendency amongst botanists to use the name 
Lastrea again. 
How to make a Greenhouse Pay.— Florist : The 
plan you propose to adopt is a very good one ; but 
we would like to qualify one statement you make, 
Damely, the filling it with "choice bedding plants." 
It would be a mistake to fill it with Coleus, Celosias, 
Cockscombs, and similar choice things, if the people 
in your neighbourhood only want Pelargoniums, 
tuberous Begonias, Calceolarias, Violas, Pansies, &c. 
Yuu can make them as choice as you like, provided 
you can sell them when grown. You will have to 
study the wants of your neighbourhood, or the 
market you are going to supply. By finding out this 
you will be most likely to succeed ; and as you go on 
experience may enable you to go one better each 
tims. 
Good Cropping Tomatos .—Florist ; Chemin, Ham 
Green Favourite and Conference are smooth fruited 
and good looking varieties that would take well in 
the market, and as a rule they crop well. 
Many other and newer varieties in the trade 
would no doubt answer your purpose quite 
well. A change of seed now and again would be an 
advantage, unless you take particular care to select 
seed from vigorous plants, as thay are liable to de¬ 
generate under the same conditions year after year. 
As you ntend growing them in boxes, however, that 
would ensure fresh soil every year. Old soil under 
glass is often subject to harbouring disease when tco 
often cropped with Tomatos. Boxes of any size 
would do, provided they hold a depth of 8 in. or 9 in. 
of soil. For convenience you might make them 1 ft. 
wide, 9 in. deep, and 18 in. long. They would be 
easier to move about than if made larger. You could 
put two plants in each, and stand the boxes in rows 
the long way of the house, so that each plant would be 
15 in. apart from every other in the row, and kept to 
a single stem. By putting one row against the glass 
on either side of the house you could put five rows 
along the body of the same. The house at that rate 
would hold seven rows, or fifty-six plants in all. To 
avoid crowding, however, you would do better to 
have only six rows, three on either side of a central 
pathway. 
Chrysanthemums, Potatos, and Strawberries.— 
Florist : Bush Chrysanthemums for the sake of cut 
flowers would be a good catch crop, so to speak, 
because you can grow them outside till the end of 
September. Late flowering varieties would be best. 
Potatos grown in boxes would hardly pay, unless 
you can have them ready very early so as to com¬ 
mand a good price. See also whether you have any 
competition in your district with Potatos from the 
Channel Islands. You could grow Strawberries on 
light shelves hung up to the roof of the house so as 
to get all the advantage of light. Here again you 
would require plenty of heat to get ripe fruit some 
consideraole time in advance of those from the open 
a>r. The other plants in the house would have to be 
of kinds that would be benefited by the heat used to 
briog forward the Strawberries. The heat need not 
be very high, however, as that required for forcing 
Peaches would suit them. The house should be kept 
fairly dry during the ripening period to avoid 
mildew. 
Rats in a Vinery.— J. Ward : Setting iron traps 
is a good plan, and covering the same with chaff 
containing a little corn amongst it. You must be 
careful not to touch the trap with your naked hands, 
otherwise they are liable to " smell a rat," so to 
speak. When setting the trap put on your pruning 
gloves, and that will keep off the scent of the hand 
to some extent. The trap should be set close to the 
hole where the rats come in, taking out a litt e soil 
so that the trap when set will be on a level with the 
hole, and bidden by the chaff. If you intend to try 
poison you should put phosphorus paste or Battle’s 
Vermin Killer on narrow slices of buttered bread 
After scattering or distributing the poison over the 
butter put the buttered faces of two pieces together, 
and place this into the hole or holes. Cut the bread 
with a knife, and do not touch it with the hand. 
Piace a board against the holes overnight and 
examine the bait every morning to see whether it has 
been taken. Guard against the rats getting in while 
this baiting process is going on if you can 
Names of Plants.— A. M : 1, Euonymus japoni- 
cus latifolius aureus; 2, Euonymus japonicus 
Ltifolius albus ; 3, Euonymus radicans — i?. M. : 1, 
Pelargonium tomentosum ; 2, Mentha Requieni (the 
two have a somewhat similar smell, both recalling 
the odour of some of the Mints, and of course one of 
them is a Mint, not a Thyme)— W. A. R 1, 
Adiantum assimile ; 2, Adiantum Capillus-Veneris ; 
3, Adiantum Fergusoni; 4, Othonna crassifolia.— 
H. D. : Aloe mitraeformis; 2, Aloe serra.—T. J. : 1 
Cpyripedium callosum; 2, Maxillaria picta.— 
D.C. : i, Salvia rutilans ; 2, Ophiopogon japon¬ 
icus ; 3, Carex brunnea variegata.— R. M. : Neph- 
rodium molle corymbiferum ; 2, Asplenium bulbi- 
ferum minus, often called A. Collensoi ; 3, Begonia 
semperflorens var. ; 4, Ilex Aquifolium Silver Queen, 
Communications Received.—A. Hope (we shall 
bear it in mind).—M. Todd.—Alfd. Hoadley.—J. M. 
—A. S — H. D —J. R.—H. R. W.—A. D. W. 
--» 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
Robert Veitch & Son, 54, High Street, Exeter.— 
Catalogue of Flower and Vegetable Seeds. 
William Cutbush & Son, Highgate Nursery, 
Highgate, London.—Descriptive Catalogue of 
FTower, Vegetable, Farm Seeds, &c. 
Dicksons & Co , i, Waterloo Place, Edinburgh.— 
Dicksons’ Gaiden Seeds. 
W. J. Godfrey, Exmouth, Devon.- Guide and 
Descriptive Catalogue of New and Select Chrysanth¬ 
emums. 
George Bonyard & Co., The Royal Nurseries, 
Maidstone,—General Seed List. 
John Forbes, Buccleuch Nurseries, Hawick, 
Scotland.—Select List of Vegetable and Flower 
Seeds, Garden Requisites, &c. 
Daniels Bros., Ltd , Royal Norfolk Seed 
Establishment, Norwich.—Illustrated Guide for 
Amateur Gardeners. 
Howden & Co., Old Post Office Buildings, Inver¬ 
ness.—Howden’s Garden Seeds. 
Samdel Dobie & Son, Heathfield Gardens, near 
Chester —The Amateur’s Garden Annual. 
Little and Ballantyne, Carlisle.—Garden 
Seeds. 
Albert F. Upstone, 35, Church Street, and 
1, Market Street, Rotherham, Yorks. — Seed Cata¬ 
logue. 
FIXTURES FOR 1901. 
(Secretaries of shows will oblige us by sending early notice 
of their fix Aires.) 
January. 
15.—Royal Horticultural Society's Committees, in 
Drill Hall, Buckingham Gate, Westminster. 
25. —Blackheath Horticultural Society Meeting. 
29 — R.H.S. Committees. 
February. 
4 —Wimbledon Horticultural Society Meeting. 
12.—R.H.S Committees. 
15.—Gardeners’ Orphan Fund (Annual Meeting and 
Election). 
26. —R.H.S. Committees. 
28 —Kew Guild Annual Meeting. 
G ARDENERS’ ROYAL BENEVO- 
LENT INSTITUTION.—Seoretary, GEO. J. INGRAM, 
175, Victoria Street, S.W. 
R oyal gardeners’ orphan 
Fund.—Secretary, B. WYNNE, 8 Danes Inn, W.C. 
U NITED HORTICULTURAL 
PROVIDENT and BENEFIT SOCIETY.—Secretary, 
WILLIAM COLLINS, 9. Martlndale Road, Balham, S.W. 
VISITORS TO LONDON SHOULD USE 
LONDON AND ENVIRONS. 
By E. C. COOK and E. T. COOK, M.A. 
“A brilliant book."—The Times. 
“ Particularly Good.”— Academy. 
Enlarged Edition, 5/- 24 Maps and Plans. 60 Illustrations. 
Visitors to BRIGHTON, EASTBOURNE, HASTINGS 
BOURNEMOUTH, WYE VALLEY, SEVERN VALLEY, 
BATH, WESTON SUPER-MARE, MALVERN, HERE¬ 
FORD, WORCESTER, GLOUCESTER, LLANDRINDOD 
WELLS ABERYSTWYTH, TOWYN, ABERDOVEY, 
DOLGELLY, BARMOUTH, HARLECH, SNOWDON, 
CRICCIETH, PWLLHELI, LLANGOLLEN, LLAN¬ 
DUDNO, RHYL, BETTWS-Y-COED, ISLE OF WIGHT, 
and CHANNEL ISLANDS should use 
DARLINGTON’S HANDBOOKS, 1/- each. 
The HOTELS OF THE WORLD, A Handbook to the 
Leading Hotels throughout the World. 
Llangollen: DARLINCTON A CO. London: SIMPKIN & CO. 
The Rallwav Bookstalls and all Booksellers. 
OUTRAM’S 
Carnation Disease A ntidote. 
A sure cure, preventive, and plant 
stimulant. 
It may be used for Diseases affecting 
Roses, Violets, Tomatos, &c. 
THE CHRYSANTHEMUM RUST. 
Numerous testimonials from our leading experts 
have reached me, unsolicited, that my Carnation 
Disease Antidote is a sure and certain cure for this 
pest. _ 
FULLDIREGTIONS FOR USEON EACH BOTTLE. 
Pint Bottles, 3/6. Quarts, 6/-. Half-Gallon, 10/6. 
Gallon, 20/-. 
THE ORCHID FLOWER HOLDER 
(PATENTED). 
A useful Invention for Orchid Growers and Floral Decorators 
Price,per doten, 3s. 0d., post patit. 
USUAL DISCOUNT TO THE TRADE. 
A Remittance respectfully requested with all Orders 
Postal and Money Orders to be made payable at 
Stanley Bridge, S.W. 
ALFRED OUTRAM, F.R.H.S. 
7, Moore Park Road, Fulham, 
LONDON, B.CT. 
