392 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
February 16, 1901. 
INTS FOR MMATEURS. 
BEGONIAS. 
In the old days, the days of our grandfathers’ youth, 
Heath houses were features of nearly all the glass 
ranges in the gardens of that period. In a few of 
the larger gardens, or where the very old gardeners 
still superintend, we can still rejoice in the lovely 
sight of a complete houseful of Heaths and Epacris 
or other hard-wooded plants at this, their flowering 
season. The numbers of fine species and hybrid 
forms of Begonias that are now at the command of 
the gardener, have, in a great measure, ousted the 
slower growing hard-wooded plants from their former 
hold upon the affections of the garden-loving public. 
Hard-wooded plants, especially Heaths and Epacris, 
were introduced from Australia and the Cape at an 
early date, whereas the species of Begonias were much 
longer in being brought forward. The first Begonia 
introduced to this country was the shrubby species 
named B. nitida. Sir Joseph Banks was the intro¬ 
ducer, bringing it from Jamaica in 1777. From that 
time onwards a great number of Begonias have been 
introduced from tropical and subtropical Asia, Africa, 
and South America, mostly the latter. The tuber¬ 
ous rooted species originally hailed from the latter 
continent. These tuberous rooted species were 
introduced mainly since fifty years ago, and by 
hybridising the florists have produced the race of 
beautiful large-flowered single and double varieties 
that flower from the time of the Temple Show till 
frosts appear in autumn. Lately some of the single 
varieties have shown a tendency to be crested, others 
to be flaked and mottled, and semi-double. So it 
happens that from a few distinct species to start 
with, such as B. boliviensis, B. Daviesii, B. rosae- 
flora, and B. Pearcei, we have got a large number of 
hybrids, by cross-breeding and selection. From 
these, the many named single and double large 
flowered varieties have originated. The Semper- 
florens ("always flowering") Begonias, so much 
used for bedding in summer, because of their very 
dwarf, neat, compact, and free flowering habit, may 
be included as a side section of the tuberous varie¬ 
ties. They are characterised by suctqhabit as I have 
just described, and have fibrous roots without tubers. 
For autumn and winter flowering in pots they are 
largely used, more especially the taller and hand¬ 
somer varieties, gigantea and rosea. Many of the 
winter flowering Begonias are tuberous-rooted, but 
they, of course, are to o tender as a rule for outdoor 
culture, even in summer. They are therefore 
accorded an intermediate or stove temperature. B. 
socotrana is a good example of the winter flowering 
section ; B. Veitchii is another of the tender tuber¬ 
ous-rooted species. B. Dregii can be had in flower 
in winter, and would furnish another to the list of 
useful Begonias. These tropical species of this 
section have been the progenitors of an entirely new 
and exceedingly popular winter race of Begonias, 
among which I need only name B. x Gloire de 
Lorraine, which lately has given a lot of sports ; and 
besides this beautiful French hybrid the Messrs. 
Veitch have given us a hardier and stouter type with 
single and double flowers, which have resulted from 
crossing the summer flowering tuberous varieties 
with the winter flowering ones. In the first case the 
summer flowering tuberous Begonias, which are 
now-a-days used both in pots and beds, originated 
from species that came from the temperate regions 
of America, such as B. Pearcei, B. boliviensis, and 
B. Daviesii. For a long time it seemed as though 
these would not cross readily with the tropical tuber¬ 
ous species; but the hybridists have at length 
broken down the barriers and joined the large-sized 
flowers to the other qualities of the tenderer species. 
When looked at. broadly we can see the common 
affinites of all the members of the section. 
Then coming somewhat close upon the tuberous 
Begonias we have those with a thickened root- 
stock or rhizome, so well typified in the progenitor 
of this section — the well-known B. Rex. I cannot 
trace the various hybrids and cross-bred varieties 
that have evolved from the Rex type, so it will be 
most convenient to look upon B. Rex simply as the 
starting point. One of the finest collections of these 
ornamental leaved Begonias that I know of, is to be 
seen in the Begonia house at Edinburgh Botanical 
Gardens. The plants are remarkably well grown at 
this place, and so appear to the greatest advantage. 
A dozen varieties of the leading favourites can be 
had by ordering from most of the leading nursery 
firms 
Lastly there is the shrubby section of Begonias, 
and this is a group quite as varied or more so than the 
tuberous Begonias. Most of them furnish good 
varieties or species for making specimen plants. A 
number of them are handsome as climbers, as for 
instance B. corallina, B. President Carnot, and B. 
fuchsioides. B. carminata and B. coccinea are 
quite different in the habit of growth and indeed 
approach to the likeness of B. boliviensis and B. 
weltoniensis though the corollas are much different 
in form. B. corallina, B. maculata, B. Igramii, B. 
nitida, B. incarnata and B. haageana are species (or 
hydrids some of them) belonging to the shrubby 
section. 
Outside these three main groups there are a few 
exceptions of course. B. manicata is a case in 
point, and might be classed with either the tuberous 
or the fine leaved Begonias. 
Culture.—The genus as a whole presents few 
difficulties in the matter of culture. The Rex or 
stemless section are largely used to cover the walls 
of warm ferneries. A wide-meshed wire covering is 
placed against the wall, a rich peat and fibrous 
loamy compost being packed in between the wall 
and the wire netting. Young plants can then be 
inserted through the meshes and will take hold and 
grow well. When the rhizomes become 
too long and scraggy the top of the plant 
can be severed and rooted afresh in warm, moist 
cocoanut fibre. In pots these fine-leaved Begonias 
require a good deal of attention. It is necessary to 
keep them turned round so as to get the light on all 
sides to maintain well-shaped plants. They enjoy a 
warm, moist temperature but should not be more 
than lightly dewed over at any time. A temperature 
ranging between 60 ° and 70° suits them. 
The shrubby section should not at any time re¬ 
ceive a check in their early stages of growth, nor 
should they be retarded for want of potting on. 
Staking, tying, and very light thinning is all the de¬ 
mands they make. When large-sized specimens 
have been developed the usual plan is to confine 
them to the size of the pot in which they may be 
growing, and to rely mostly on feeding and top¬ 
dressing. Nearly all the hybrid Begonias, such as 
Ingramii, Sedeni, Chelsoni, and eximia, are propa¬ 
gated chiefly by cuttings or by division. They do 
not produce seeds very freely. We have seen this 
very markedly in the case of Begonia Gloire de 
Lorraine, where very few, if any, instances are re¬ 
corded of seedlings haviDg been raised from seeds 
borne by this hybrid. As a iule the whole of the 
shrubby section are propagated from cuttings, leaves 
being frequently used. The tuberous Begonias 
if ever they were shy seed bearers have long ago got 
past that stage, for now seeds are almost the exclu¬ 
sive means adopted for increasing them. The 
tubers can also be divided in the same way as 
Potatos are treated, though, of course, each part 
should have an eye or shoot attached. The great 
value of the bedding tuberous Begonias is that they 
can be stored in boxes during winter, aDd occupy 
very little space. They are, moreover, floriferous 
and robust, standing rain and drought very well, 
indeed, though they are, perhaps, more liable to 
break or snap in windy weather than are Pelargon¬ 
iums or other plants. Their pot culture is a special 
feature, and improvements both in the strain of 
plants and the manner of treating them are yearly 
being advanced. To grow good exhibition Begonias 
no pains should be sparod to secure the very best 
yellow loam, and the highest strain of seeds. A 
great deal of care is also required in the watering 
and shading of them subsequently. The seeds 
should be sown thinly on the surface of finely sifted 
soil made light by a liberal addition of silver 
sand. The pans should be immersed in tepid 
water to moisten the soil, and then a square or circle 
of glass should be placed over the pans, after which 
they should be placed in a propagating pit or in a 
little frame placed on the stage of a Melon or other 
warm house. So soon as the seedlings are able to 
be taken hold of, prick them off into very small 
"thimble" pots separately. Of course, bedding 
plants may be more roughly treated by pricking them 
into boxes. Whenever the seedlings have made 
good progress and filled the small pots with a few 
roots they should be potted on into pots two or 
three sizes larger, say, 3-in. pots From this time 
they may be grown on the shelves of a suitable 
well-lighted pit, having a temperature ranging be¬ 
tween 58° at night to 68° by day, air being gently 
admitted when the temperature reaches 65° and 
seems likely to rise further. They enjoy a moderately 
moist air and water sufficient to suit their require¬ 
ments. A light tiffany shading will be necessary 
when the sun's rays begin to feel effective to one’s 
own skin. Potting as necessary will demand atten¬ 
tion after the plants have made a fair start. When 
the plants show flower one or two of the buds should 
be removed. As a rule 6-in. pots are quite large 
enough for good exhibition tuberous (double or 
single) Begonias, and any nourishment they may 
require after rooting through the soil in this size of 
pot can be supplied in the form of liquid manure.— 
Beacon. 
- 
Correspondence. 
Questions ashed by amateurs on any subject pertaining 
to gardens or gardening will be answered on this page. 
Anyone may give additional or more explanatory answers 
to questions that have already appeared. Those who desire 
their communications to appear on this page should write 
"Amateurs' Page " on the top of their letters. 
Chrysanthemums — A G. N. : After being cut 
down the suckers shoot up, and the best of these 
(not necessarily them all) should be retained. They 
will develop and afford next season’s flowering shoots. 
These old stools should be shaken out now, to be at 
once repotted. After repotting them (having 
reduced the old ball to allow of their being placed in 
the same size of pot), water the soil and place the 
pots on the stages of any cool plant structure or in 
frost-proof frames. Pot plants of the early flowering 
varieties may be broken up, and some of these divi¬ 
sions cm be planted in the open borders. This, 
however, need not be done till the opener weather 
arrives. 
Violets.—S. L. : The runners are usually taken in 
April, the strongest being selected. The old plants 
may be planted out along the side of walls. The 
runners should be put into well prepared beds at 
distances of from 4 in. to 6 in. apart. Keep them 
weeded, watered, and free from insect pests during 
the summer. 
Linaria Cymbalaria on a wall.— J. T . : To intro¬ 
duce this pretty little Toadflax upon a wall you 
should secure seeds from somewhere or other. This 
plant produces seeds in immense profusion, and 
these, if scattered into the chinks and seams of the 
walls, will in all probability germinate. Soil may be 
filled in between the looser parts of the stones, to 
ensure greater certainty of the plants attaining a hold. 
Almost any sort of wall where there is the least 
possibility of a root hold, is suitable for the above 
plant. 
Seed order for half acre garden.— R. L. Here is 
a list of ordinary vegetables and Potatos calculated 
to furnish one year’s supply, and suitable for half 
an acre of garden land. A household of six persons, 
including servants, may be furnished from a half 
acre garden if it is well ordered, though ten persons 
per acre is the usual standard of supply. In seeds of 
good quality such an assortment should cost about 
two guineas. A garden double the size would not 
require twice the following amount of seed, and 
indeed three guineas might cover the cost; whilst 
for a small garden the cost may be anything from 
5s. upwards:—Two pints Broad Beans, 2 kinds; 
2 pints of Dwarf Beans, 2 kinds ; 3 quarts of Peas, 
3 kinds ; 1 pint of Scarlet Runners ; 2 packets Beet, 
2 kinds ; 1 packet or oz. of Leek ; 2 packets Cabbage, 
2 kinds; 1 packet Brussels Sprouts; 2 packets 
Broccoli, 2 kinds; 1 packet Cauliflower, 1 packet 
Kale, oz. Onions, 3 kinds; 3 oz. Turnip, 3 kinds ; 
i£ oz. Carrot, 3 kinds ; x packet Cucumber (frame); 
1 packet Melon (frame); 4 oz. Spinach, 2 kinds ; 
1 oz. Parsnip ; 1 packet Celery ; 1 packet Endive ; 
3 oz. Radish, 2 kinds ; 1 oz. Lettuce, 2 kinds ; 1 oz. 
Parsley; 4 oz. Mustard; 2 oz. Cress; 1 packet 
Tomato; 1 packet Savoy ; 1 packet Vegetable 
Marrow ; 3 bushels Potatos (early, main crop, and 
late). If the above does not suit your requirements 
you should consult some of the nurserymen's cata¬ 
logues, for they make out lists to suit all needs. 
Early vegetables.— Linden : Proceed as directed 
in the kitchen garden calendars. Carrots, Potatos, 
Radishes, Lettuces, and Turnips, can be raised from 
