406 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
February 23, 1901.. 
The County Court Judge went on to say that be 
found as facts that the defendant acted 
as agent only, and that the defendant was in the 
position merely of canvasser for orders for the 
Boundary Chemical Company with authority to 
receive money on their account. The only question 
was whether there was any evidence to support that 
finding of fact by the County Court Judge, because 
if there was there was no jurisdiction to interfere with 
the finding. His lordship then read the evidence of 
the defendant at the trial, and explained that in the 
case of the " Pharmaceutical Society v. London and 
Provincial Supply Association " the House of Lords 
had dealt with the question of the meaning of 
••seller” in the Act. His lordship then went into 
the argument of Lord Selborne (see The Times, 
Saturday, February i6th, 1901) as expressed in con¬ 
nection with the above case in the House of Lords. 
Lord Justice Collins and Lord Justice Romer con¬ 
curred in the judgment. 
-- 2 -- 
DEDTZIAS. 
Among the many beautiful subjects available during 
the spring months for the decoration of the green¬ 
house, the dwelling-house, or for cut flowers, few are 
more attractive than the Deutzia. It is indeed a 
most accommodating plant and bears treatment that 
would be the death of many plants. It is easily 
propagated, and the present is a good time to make a 
start. Cuttings are easily procured from forced 
plants, choosing moderately firm ones, about 3 in. or 
4 in. long, dibbling five or six round the edges of 
4-in. pots in a light sandy compost. Plunge them in 
a brisk bottom-heat in a propagating frame, and in 
three weeks or so they will be nicely rooted. Pot off 
at once, so as to give the longest time for growth 
and ripening of the wood. The Deutzia being of a 
soft-wooded, free-growing nature requires a rich, 
open compost in which to grow. As soon as potted 
replace in propagating frame, or, preferably, a dung 
frame. As soon as they have taken to their shift and 
commenced to grow nip out the tip of each, so as to 
make them send out new shoots. They may send 
out more than is required, but they can be thinned, 
as five or six well-ripened shoots are preferable to a 
mass of soft, flowerless wood. Pot on as necessary 
into 5j-io. or 7-in. pots, harden off gradually, and 
p’ace out of doors during summer to ripen their 
wood.—" Brightspade.'' 
GRAFTING ROSES. 
Where a number of Roses of any special variety 
have to be rapidly increased the simplest and easiest 
method is by grafting or budding. When grafting is 
performed upon Manetti or Brier cuttings, these 
should be carefully dressed, removing all eyes from 
the stems below the points where they are to be 
grafted. Shoots of the varieties of the Rose it is 
intended to increase should then be got; head the 
stock down to where there is nice smooth bark, 
then cut a slice cff one side of the stock about an 
inch in length, or less if the stock is not very strong. 
Then cut the scion to a suitable length, having one or 
two good eyes intact, but the fewer the buds the 
better. Cut a long slice off the scion opposite the 
lowest bud, so as to correspond with the slice taken 
from the stock. Fit the stock and scion together so 
that the heel or base, and at least one edge of stock 
and scion meet; bind it up with matting, giving it 
four or five turns, but not too firmly. Teas for pot 
culture are most frequently operated with in this 
way. After gra t'mg, pot them and give a gentle 
watering. To assist a speedy union the plants may 
then be placed on a warm bed of fibre or hot-bed, 
the warmth from which encourages root action. If 
these buds are made in close pits, so much the better 
for the plants. When they begin to grow they 
should be gradually inured to greater ventilation, 
and in a short time they may take their places along 
with the ordinary stock plants.— C. 
AMERICAN BLIGHT. 
This pest requires special treatment in order to 
exterminate it from Apple trees, which it chiefly 
attacks. Unpruned and neglected trees are the 
most frequently overrun, but all are liable to it and 
injured by it, especially young trees, the bark of 
which is tender and easily pierced by the insects. 
B ight is conspicuous by the woolly bunches of 
white cottony substance congregated in scars and 
cracks in the stem and branches. This is quite 
common in summer. In winter the white substance 
disappears, but the insects are present. Close 
examination in summer reveals colonies in active 
condition. Those in a more advanced stage pierce 
the tender growths of the trees and feed on the sap 
out of them. This through time gives rise to warty 
growths, and sypoils the young wood from coming 
into fruiting condition. In all places where they 
become established the insects breed and increase 
quickly. The best cure is to remove all superfluous 
growths, burning them as soon as cut; then dress 
the infested parts with this mixture : soft soap, ^ lb.; 
petroleum, 1 gallon ; and 10 gallpns of water. Dis¬ 
solve the soap in hot water, add the petroleum, 
mixing well, and finally the rest of the water, mixing 
the whole with a syringe. Then work it into the 
infested parts with a brush.— T. S. Dick, Castlemilk 
Gardens, Lockerbie. 
--J—- 
GLOXINIAS. 
If we take into account their distinctness, their 
continuous flowering habit, and the exquisite colours 
they possess, it will at once be admitted that there 
are few subjects so well deserving attention as the 
Gloxinia. Seed should be sown now in equal parts, 
finely sifted loam and leaf mould, adding a little 
sand; drain the pots well, and make the soil firm on 
the surface. Sdw the seeds thinly, covering them 
slightly ; put the pots in a temperature of 70°, and 
keep the soil just damp. As soon as the seedlings 
appear place them close to the light or they will 
become drawn. When large enough prick out into 
shallow pans, using soil similar to that in which they 
were sown. When they have leaves an inch long, 
box off into light rich soil 3 in. apart, keeping them 
in a warm light house. By the end of May they 
will be ready to shift into a frame ; one facing south 
on a partly spent hot bed suits best. Plant 6 in. 
apart and 9 in. from the glass. Keep the frame 
close for a time and shade them. When the plants 
get established, give plenty of air, but always from 
the back of the frame. Gloxinias enjoy abundance 
of water when growing, but in August it should be 
gradually withheld. When the tops are quite dead, 
lift and store them in a temperature of 45 0 until 
required for potting next season.— Walter Hopkins, 
Leighton, Westbury, Wilts. 
GARDENIAS. 
Young plants struck from cuttings last spring and 
potted on into 6-in. pots some few weeks ago are 
well advanced to the flowering stage and if large 
flowers are expected the two or more growths that 
push out close up to the flower heads, should have 
been pulled out as soon as the finger and thumb 
could lay hold of them, thereby throwing all the 
strength into the flowers. Keep them well syringed 
and near to the glass roof in a temperature of 6o° 
to 70° by night with the usual advance to 8o p or so 
during the bright sunshine. These plants after 
flowering will be shortened back a bit and encouraged 
with plenty of atmospheric moisture to break away 
strongly, sacrificing a few plants to take cuttings 
from when fit. The remainder will be slightly 
reduced at the ball and repotted into nearly the same 
size pot, using as a compost sound fibrous loam and 
peat in equal proportions with a good dash of coarse 
silver sand, and a little soot added. Keep near 
the glass and endeavour to build up well ripened 
shoots that should flower at every point during Feb¬ 
ruary and March of next year. Shift into 7 or 8-in, 
pots towards the end of August. The plants are 
benefited with a rest in a temperature of not lower 
than 58° during the night, say from the end of Octo¬ 
ber until the first week in January, and a less 
quantity of water at the root also overhead will suffice 
while in that structure. Keep mealy bug and scale 
at arm’s length. After the second year the plants 
should be thrown away. Much finer flowers are had 
from young plants; hence the advice to propagate a 
fresh batch each year.— J. Mayne. 
-* 5 -- 
AUTUMN SOWN ONIONS. 
The present is a suitable time for transplanting the 
above, seed having been sown on a warm border 
about the middle of August in last year. In the 
selection of a plot of ground for planting out, an 
open position should be chosen, and if the ground 
was deeply dug and well manured in the autumn it 
will need but little preparation now. As soon as the 
surface is dry enough it should be well raked ; light 
soil may be trodden, but naturally stiff soil is better* 
not trodden more than is absolutely necessary. The 
Onions should be lifted carefully from the seed bed 
with a fork, the largest plants rejected as being most 
disposed to form flower-heads and the medium-sized 
plants planted in rows 1 ft. apart and 8 ins. apart in 
the rows. A dibber should be used and the operator 
should walk along with one foot on each side the 
line; he will thus avoid treading the ground that 
has to be planted, an important point when dealing 
with heavy soils. Care should be taken that the 
roots are kept straight and the plants not buried too 
deeply. After planting, the rake should be again 
drawn carefully through the rows, and all that is . 
needed after will be the frequent application of the 
Dutch hoe. Onions averaging 1 lb. in weight may 
be obtained during July and August by following 
these details.— Cantab. 
———9®--- 
PRIMULA STELLATA. 
To get large and useful plants of this beautifu 
variety of Primula the plants from this year’s batch 
should now be picked out. Keep them upon a 
shelf in any cool greenhouse, keeping picked off any 
stray flower growths which may appear, also keeping 
them on the dry side for a short period. Then 
knock out the plants, taking away as much of the 
old soil as may safely be done without damaging the 
roots. Pot up into 24’s and 16's, the sizes in which 
they are to flower. It is not advisable to pot on 
Primulas any more than can be helped, the compost 
used being two parts loam, two parts leaf soil, sand, 
and wood ash, potting the plants well up to the first 
leaf,there being about £ in. of bare stem from which the 
roots will grow. Keep the plants when potted close in 
a warm pit for about a week. A light spraying over¬ 
head with the syringe is very beneficial to the plants. 
Plants treated in this manner will be found to make 
fine healthy stuff, valuable for cutting from, the 
flower being equal to that of those grown from seed, 
there also being more of them when used for cutting. 
The flowers should be gummed by a drop of floral 
cement being dropped into the eye of the flower,this,of 
course, making a lot of difference in the time the 
flowers last when cut and put in water.— H. Fleming, 
Wcxham Park Gardens, Slough. 
JOURNEYMEN. 
I rather like the discussion in The Gardening 
World re journeymen, &c. It is well to enter a 
correspondence of this sort with a good amount of 
charity and common sense, to respect each other's 
ideas and out of the mass of correspondence to get 
something that will be a permanent benefit to 
ourneymen themselves. Of course, it is the duty 
of head gardeners to take a keen interest in youDg 
men under their charge who wish to learn the pro¬ 
fession of gardening. 
It is a noble profession and requires a good amount 
of intelligence and education to succeed, and the 
determined young man who is observant and takes 
note of all he sees will find something to learn in 
most places, and will put up with a certain amount 
of discomfort if he is learning his profession. Gar¬ 
dening is progressive and the treatment of many 
things to-day is totally different to the prevailing 
treatment say twenty years ago. 
All young journeymen should study a little botany, 
drawing, land measurement, and chemistry of the soil. 
Landscape gardening is very important to know the 
plants most suitable for clay, gravelly and peaty 
soils. Grammar and geography are most important 
to a young man who intends to get to the top, and all 
these subjects can be fairly well improved on with 
the aid of Cassell's Popular Educator, and a good 
weekly paper, say The Gardeners' Chronicle, The 
Garden or The Gardening World. 
These are subjects that are easily learned, and 
most young gardeners have a good bit of spare time 
in the evenings. If a young man intends to succeed 
he must have a good amount of self-respect, and 
these studies will make the time fly much quicker 
than thinking too much over some particular griev¬ 
ance. 
Bothies in most gardens have been very much 
improved since I was a young man, but no doubt 
there are still a good many of the old sort ; but 
improvement is now the fashion, and I hope that 
