424 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
March 2 , 
1901 
INTS FOR WMATEURS. 
CARNATIONS. 
The various sections of Carnations.— The hardier 
species of the Carnation tribe (Dianthus) have been 
amongst the most favoured plants since times far 
back. Their popularity was never greater than it is 
at the present day; and there is the National 
Carnation Society and other minor societies, whose 
special existence is to encourage the cultivation of 
this special flower. The " garden" or border 
Carnation is now sub-divided into seifs, fancies, 
yellow grounds, and so on. The parent species of 
these Carnations is usually stated to be Dianthus 
Caryophyllus. The section of Carnations, which for 
long have been specifically called Picotees, origina¬ 
ted as a sport from the true Carnation. The 
separation is purely artificial, and were it not that 
our leading growers exerted strict vigilance in 
selecting and keeping up the type, we would very 
probably find the majority of Picotees losing their 
distinctive character, and becoming flaked or bizarre 
Carnations. Then there are the Pinks, not the Mrs. 
Sinkins type, but the fringed Cottage Pinks so often 
used as edgings to walks and alleys. These are 
traced to Dianthus plumarius. The latter also gave 
us the stronger and more substantial flowers, found 
in the Pinks Mrs. Sinkins and Her Majesty. Marguer¬ 
ite Carnations originated from a cross with the 
Indian Pink and the Carnation. 
Dianthus barbatus is the Sweet William ; D. 
hybridus, the parent of the Mule Pinks ; D sinensis 
Heddewigii is the type of an annual class, whose 
forms are now quite numerous, including "stellaris," 
" laciniatus,” and double-flowered varieties. Self 
and flaked Carnations would seem to have been 
known for some centuries. Certainly a yellow 
“ Gilloflower," as the Carnation was then called, 
was in vogue about the year 1600—the end of Queen 
Elizabeth's time. Several striped varieties are 
noted by Parkinson in his " Paradisus,” published 
thirty years later. 
The Carnation then, has gradually been under¬ 
going change and improvement, till at the present 
day we have the following groups or sections of 
Carnations : Bizarres, flakes, seifs, fancies, yellow 
grounds, tree Carnation, Malmaisons, and of course 
Picotee, which is again sub-divided into white and 
yellow grounds, and further according to the light, 
medium, or heavy edging colour. 
Selfs have only one colour, or shades of that 
colour. 
Fancies embrace all flowers with markings on 
coloured grounds, and all those distinctly marked on 
white ground too. 
Flakes have one colour only, laid lengthways on a 
white ground, and are classed as scarlet, rose, or 
purple flakes. 
Bizarres have two colours disposed longitudinally 
on a white ground, and are sub-divided into scarlet, 
crimson, and pink and purple forms. 
Yellow grounds are a very fascinating section. 
The name is applied to those whose petals are yellow 
(as a"ground ” colour) and marked over with pink, 
rose, or rich plum, olten lavender, and forming 
lovely combinations. Yellow ground Picotees and 
fancy Carnations are easily confused. 
The foregoing remarks may be useful to some of 
my readers, and if fuller information is desired on 
some of these points, I would recommend Mr. 
Weguelin’s book on Carnations, to be had from 
Messrs. George Newnes, Ltd. 
The culture of Carnations demands a good deal of 
experience, more especially the culture of the tree 
and Malmaison sorts, these being of course almost 
entirely grown in pots. Cool treatment is one of the 
first rules in their management. Careful watering, 
shading, potting, and ventilating are further items 
whose proper and careful providing means success or 
the opposite. I cannot go fully into Ihe details of 
management now, but a few lines may be appended. 
Border Carnations.—This is the hardiest section 
of the present day Carnations. Carnations, as a 
general rule, are quite hardy. The coddling treat¬ 
ment should not be practised, it lays the beginnings 
of weakness and future failures. The ground for 
border Carnations should be well prepared. A 
sunny sheltered spot should be preferred to any 
other, but a good deep soil is essential. It is advis¬ 
able to make a bed specially for these plants, 
providing a medium quality of loam with a goodly 
proportion of the best rooted dung. When once 
made the bed should be yearly top dressed with the 
same good quality of dung, and should be dug ij ft. 
deep. The layers are generally rooted and ready in 
October, either for potting into 3-in. pots to be kept 
in cold frames through the winter, or for planting at 
once into beds at distances of half a foot apart. 
In April the spring planting should be done. The 
plants may then be allowed more space, say 1 ft. or 
18 in. apart either way. When the planting has 
been completed a wire netting guard should be fixed 
neatly around the bed or border. By bed I do not 
mean simply a small round bed or a square one, but 
a bed large enough to contain a collection of fifty or 
sixty varieties, and its shape might be oblong. 
Stakes will be required for the flower spikes after 
growth has started. It is well to do some disbud¬ 
ding ; and an occasional watering may be necessary, 
as heat and dryness are the ruin of Carnations. The 
surface of the soil between the plants should also be 
frequently stirred. 
Marguerite Carnations, especially the pink 
varieties, are very pretty, and have the advantage of 
being free bloomers, and will do well anywhere. 
Seeds should be sown in gentle heat in boxes indoors 
about March, and young plants will be fit for plant¬ 
ing out in May. 
Malmaison Carnations have recently been greatly 
increased as regards the numbers of fine varieties 
that are now offered by the florists. For a very 
long time there was no other sort than the old Blush 
Pink, but Sir Charles Freemantle, Prime Minister, 
Lady Middleton, Trumpeter, and Churchwarden, 
are now well known favourites of this particular 
group. Plants of three and four years of age flower 
most freely. Cuttings can be taken in September, 
and struck in frames among sandy soil, a practice 
which I have seen performed with successful results 
and very little trouble. The more frequent practice, 
however, is to layer the plants. The developed 
specimens are laid on their sides, and are then 
layered in the ordinary way among suitable soil It 
is advisable to keep Malmaisons constantly potted 
on, for growth is slow. During all their growth 
they should be maintained in cool temperatures. In 
winter the shelves of a Peach house within 1$ ft. 
from the glass, should be accorded to them, and at 
that period the temperature should be kept between 
40° and 50 9 . 
Shortly before the Peach house is about to be 
closed for forcing or starting the Carnations should 
be removed to a greenhouse. The young plants 
should be kept to a single stem during the first year 
(growing them in frames during summer, and shading 
from bright sun), and after flowering a number of 
stems will branch out, and these should be staked 
into shape. During the winter period the plants are 
as a rule kept almost dry, a practice which I never 
strictly followed, and yet was able to grow healthy, 
firm-wooded plants. 
Tree or Winter flowering Carnations. — Why 
this type should be specified as " tree ” Carnations 
I am altogether unable to say. Some florists assert 
that it is because of their tree-like habit—save the 
mark ! However, the name is widely current, and we 
must accept it. The cuttings should be taken as 
early in the year as possible, choosing good strong 
shoots, of in. to 3 in. in length. These should be 
inserted round the edge of 3-in. pots ; or a 5-in. pot 
may be used, placing a 3-in. pot inside it and filling 
in the sandy soil between the two pots. This prac¬ 
tice is commendable in this that it tends to keep the 
soil warmer, better aerated, and does not expose the 
cuttings so much to damping off. 
The pots should be plunged amongst ashes in a 
warm frame. The ashes and the soil in which the 
cuttings are placed must be kept moist. When 
rooted pot the little plants into thumb pots, but still 
maintain them in the warm temperature. After a 
day or two in a house ranging between 6o° and 65°, 
remove the newly potted plants to a greenhouse, and 
grow them afterwards in a cool temperature. During 
their early stages of growth, the young shoots should 
be stopped once or twice to form bushy specimens. 
Keep them shaded from strong, direct sunshine. — 
Beacon. 
The Temperature at Dawson fell to 68J° below 
zero on January 17th. 
Correspondence. 
Questions ashed by amateurs on any subject pertaining 
to gardens or gardening will be answered on this page. 
Anyone may give additional or more explanatory answers 
to questions that have already appeared. Those who desire 
their communications to appear on this page should write 
“Amateurs' Paste " on the top of their letters. 
Making Flower Boxes,— J. T. : The width and 
breadth of the window-sill will have to be taken. 
White deal is the best wood. If the window ledge 
slopes you will require to fix pieces of wood to the 
bottom of the box, so as to keep it level. The front 
can be ornamented by Fir or Pine cones or by 
panelling. Pieces of coloured wax cloth when pro¬ 
perly arranged are very attractive. 
Conifers and shrubs from cuttings.— F.S.: The 
Thuyas, Cupressus, and Cryptomerias which you 
name can be propagated from cuttings taken in the 
month of September, and placed an inch or two into 
light soil in a sheltered border. They gradually root 
and remain in good condition throughout the winter. 
At first they may be inserted at a few inches apart 
in rows ; but when rooted in spring time they may 
be lifted and set out wider. In the case of deciduous 
shrubs many of them can be increased by means of 
cuttings taken during the winter. Good clean shoots 
of firm wood should be selected. In length these 
need not be longer than 1 ft. A spot preferred by 
ourselves would be any nice fruit border where the 
surroundings afford shelter from cutting winds, It 
is of the first importance to have a light quality of 
soil. On any but a sandy or well drained loam, the 
percentage of those that perish is bound to be large. 
The ground should first of all be well prepared by 
digging. After this tread it moderately firm, and 
take out shallow trenches about 3 in. in depth by 
the use of a spade and a tightly stretched line. The 
cuttings having been prepared with the usual care, 
insert them letting the base rest at the bottom of the 
trench. Fill in the soil and tread moderately firm. 
A space of a foot should be left between the rows, 
although an inch or two will suffice between the 
cuttings themselves. Shrubs that may be treated 
thus in the outdoor border include Diervillas 
(Weigelas), Aucubas, Forsythias, Deutzias, Phtla- 
delphus, Ribes, Sambucus, Lilac, Ivies, Berberis, 
Hydrangeas, Roses, Laurels, Wych Hazel, Veronicas 
(hardy species), Crataegus, Privet, numerous species 
of Prunus, Olearia Haastif, Honeysuckles, and many 
others. Those shrubs that are not quite so resis¬ 
tive to cold weather, including Buddleias, Exochorda 
grandiflora, species of Cistus, Hibiscus, Hypericum 
moserianum, Viburnum plicatum, Tree Paeonias, 
Spiraeas, Tamarix, and others, should be allowed the 
benefit of a cold pit or frame. Cuttings of these 
shrubs may be inserted in October, or indeed any 
time till growth starts in spring. 
Selection of Roses for backwall of greenhouse. 
— C. Dickson : The following will suit your purpose : 
— Celine Forestier, Belle Lyonaise, climbing 
Devoniensis, climbing Niphetos, climbing Perle des 
Jardins, W. A Richardson, L'ldeal, Marechal Niel, 
Mdme. Berard, Reve d’Or, Gustave Regis, and 
others of the climbing Tea, Hybrid Tea, and Noisette 
group. A narrow border, say 2 ft in width and 
slightly less in depth, composed of three parts of the 
best quality of loam, with less than one part each of 
sand and leaf mould, and a dash of pounded 
charcoal, should be allowed. Roughly broken bricks 
covered with turves, should be arranged as drainage. 
The planting must be carefully performed. 
Treatment of Rose borders— C. Dicksoit : Unless 
the weather is very frosty and the outlook very un¬ 
certain, the pruning of all kinds oi Roses in the open 
air may be left for fully a month yet. But if your 
borders are well sheltered and the situation is dry, 
pruning may safely be performed by the beginning 
of March. At any rate you can fork-in the manure, 
leaving the soil in a rough state as it can be hoed 
and broken down later on. 
Plants for contrast in beds. — J. F. Read : The 
" Red hot Poker ” plants (Koiphofias) contrast well 
with the white, beautifully fragrant flowers of 
Nicotiana affinis. Blue Delphiniums and the 
common White Lily are also fine, and even the 
Lily tribe itself can be used to good effect. At the 
same time we think it best to keep a species or 
variety of Lilium by itself, and if dwarfer Azaleas 
are seen along with Liliums nothing better could be 
