490 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
March 30, 1901. 
when finished the soil should be high in the centre of 
the pot. Three or four bulbs of an equal size may 
be potted together, using 6-in. or 7-in. pots according 
to their strength, keeping the new growths outward. 
When potted place in a temperature about 8o°. 
They will require very little water until started well 
into growth. They will then take plenty. Keep the 
atmosphere moistened, air and shade lightly in bright 
weather. As soon as the flower spikes commence 
to show, water with weak manure water, but gradu¬ 
ally withhold water as the foliage dies away and the 
flowers commence to open. When fully open they 
will keep better colour and last much longer if 
removed to a cooler and dryer house about 6o°. 
Their graceful sprays are useful for decoration.— E. 
Ireland, Aldergrove. 
CAMPANULAS. 
Campanulas vary much in habit, and the quick 
growing annual kinds may be disposed of by saying 
that they only need be sown in the borders where 
they are to flower. But the Canterbury Bell, the 
Chimney Campanula (C. pyramidalis) and a Lw of 
the others require more careful cultivation. By sow¬ 
ing early in a gentle heat and nursing the plants with 
a little care, most of the biennial and some of the 
perennial kinds will flower the same season. It mast 
be remembered, however, that hardy plants will not 
endure much heat, and therefore when the seedlings 
have made a little progress in comfortable quarters, 
they must have as much light and air as they can 
endure without giviDg them a check, and be planted 
out early, unless it is intended to flower them in pots, 
for which the Chimney Campanula is well adapted. 
A light rich soil and good drainage is essential at all 
times and they should never flag for want of water as 
this will not only impoverish them but render them 
a prey to green fly or red spider. To raise a stock 
of the varieties of Canterbury Bell sow at any time 
from April to July in a frame or border, and get 
them pricked out early to become strong and short. 
Transplant in August or September to stand the 
winter or bed them in a frame. In the spring plant 
them out with care in the place they are to flower.— 
Albert Marks, 4, Orchard Terrace, Chichester, Sussex. 
DRILLS v. BROADCAST. 
With regard to the growing of the seed there is 
perhaps little difference in the above methods, except 
that when once the beds are prepared, as much 
broadcasting can be done in an hour as drilling in a 
day. Drilling, however, makes up for this after, 
being much more easy to keep clean and thin out. 
But I see most of the large market gardens in this 
neighbourhood broadcast their seeds, and employ a 
small army of cheap labour to weed and thin out, &c. 
On the other hand farms rarely broadcast, and the 
large drills u-ed make perfect work ; the straight, 
regular drills adding much to the appearance of the 
fields in the spring 
There can be no doubt a small cheap hand drill 
would be of great use in the garden, saving time and 
seed; al-.o improving the appearance of the work. 
Some twenty years ago I get one of those on sale 
then, but I did not find it answer. I have lately 
seen some American drills on sale. Perhaps some of 
your correspondents can give us their experience of 
such, it might be interesting as well as useful.— 
if. Mullins, Bristol. 
CANNAS. 
Thanks to the skill of the hybridist, the great 
diversity of fine coloured flowers and foliage has 
rendered the Cannas indispensable for the decoration 
of the flower and subtropical garden. Though few 
plants are more easily grown they will well repay 
the cultivator fer 1 bsral treatment and plenty of 
moisture. Seed should now be sown in heat; a 
Cucumber pit is a good place, and as the seeds are 
very hard, soak in water for two days before sowing to 
asffst germination. Sow the seeds singly in 3-in. 
pots to avoid injuring the young brittle rcots when 
pricking off. They should be grown on in a temper¬ 
ature of about 6 j 9 , and shifted into larger pots as 
required, tie soil used being very rich and porous, 
equal parts, loam, rotted manure, peat and sand. 
By May they should be moved into 6-in. pots, and 
by thi first week in June be filled with roots ready 
for planting out in a bed of rich soil in a rather 
sheltered position where they will flower throughout 
summer and autumn. Old plants may also be 
divided now, each bud with a portion of the root- 
stock will form a plant. Pot up into 4-in. pots, 
using a rich soil and the same temperature as before, 
but keep them well syringed to assist them to start 
into growth. Plants in 10 in. pots form suitable 
subjects for conservatory decoration ; supply liber¬ 
ally with manure when the pots are filled with roots- 
— C.F.B. 
FUCHSIAS. 
Old plants that were placed in heat the beginning 
of the month, will now have put forth young growths 
freely. If these are taken off, inserted in moist pans 
of silver sand, and placed in a good brisk bottom 
heat; they will quickly strike. By frequent shift- 
ings and growing on good plants can be had by the 
end of May. The Fuchsia is a gross feeder, and 
delights in a compost of loam, good manure, and leaf 
soil. During the time the young plants are making 
growth, if the weather be bright and sunny, they 
will benefit greatly if syringed overhead twice a day. 
This also tends to keep the foliage clean. The 
Fuchsia requires a great deal of water when growing 
vigorously. Some prefer to stand their plants out 
in the open air in summer where they can be shaded 
during the hottest part of the day. Then in late 
summer they will embellish the greenhouse until the 
Chrysanthemums show their flowers. As to the 
shape of the plants I prefer the pyramid, though by 
judicious pinching a cultivator can grow his plants 
into almost any shape he pleases. About the end of 
October, when the plants go out ot flower, prune 
back, place in a house to winter and keep moderately 
dry.—T. W. Dollery, The Gardens, Whitburn, Sunder¬ 
land. 
SEED TABLE. 
This is the time of year when everyone is working 
in their garden, and sometimes one is not sure 
whether to use some of the previous year's seeds or 
not; but the following table shows the latest periods 
at which the seeds most generally in demand may be 
expected to grow freely .— 
Cabbage tribe, 4 years. 
Leguminous culinary vegetables, 1 year. 
Esculent Roots. Spinaceous Plants. 
Beet, 10 years Spinach, 4 years 
Turnip, 4 years White Beet, 10 years 
Carrot, 1 year Purslane, 2 years 
Parsnip, x year Alliaceous Plants, 
Radish, 2 years 2 years 
Salsify, 2 years Asparaginous Plants. 
Skirret, 4 years Asparagul, 4 years 
Scorzonera, 2 years Srakale, 3 years 
Acetarious Plants Artichoke, 3 years 
in general, 2 years Cardoon, 2 years 
Lettuce. 3 years S«,«* Heybs _ 
generally, 2 years, but 
Rue and Rosemary, 3 
years 
Hyssop, 6 years 
Sundry Seeds. 
Endive, 4 years 
Mustard, 4 years 
Taragon, 4. years 
Sorrel, 7 years 
Celery, 10 years 
Pot Herbs 
in general, 2 years, but Rhubarb, * year 
Parsley will grow at 6 < ^ ourt ^ ar ^ Pompkin, 10 
Dilfand Fennel, 5 years To ” ato -, Capsicum and 
Chevril, 6 years plant, 2 years 
Borage, 7 years Annual and biennial 
Marigold, 3 years flower seeds, generally, 
2 years, but it is with 
difficulty with some the 
second year. Peren¬ 
nial seeds the same. 
— T. S. Dick, Castlemilk, Lockerbie. 
years 
HYDRANGEAS. 
I would like to supplement the article in last week's 
issue on the propagation of these as well as the after 
treatment. Cuttings can be taken off in July from 
outdoor bushes, placing four or five in a 4-in. pot of 
light sandy soil. Standing them under a frame or 
handglass under a north wall is the best, for here no 
shadiog will be required and the young shoots will 
not get drawn up. Syringe two or three times a day, 
keeping them close, of course; in four or five weeks 
they should be ready to pot up singly, still keeping 
them in the same position for ten days, when inure 
gradually to the air, finally standing outside in a 
sunny spot and housing before sharp frost occurs. 
Ripot them in‘o 4f-in. ar.d 5j-in. pots early in 
January and place the pots in a vinery or Peach- 
house just started. These should be in flower by the 
first week in April. We have them in flower now 
under this treatment. Thomas Hogg, the white one, 
is especially good for early work. Feed with weak 
guano water as soon as you can see the head of 
bloom. Dust with tobacco powder for green fly, as 
under early forcing the surroundings favour this 
aphis. Old plants after passing out of flower 
should be cut hard back, placed in a temperature of 
6o° and kept well syringed. When nicely started 
shift into a size larger pot, using good loam, a little 
bone meal and leaf soil. When growth is well 
advanced place outside, giving all the sun possible. 
These make a nice succession to the single stem 
plants and most of the shoots should carry a trnssof 
bloom; any that do not can be taken off for cuttings 
and will flower early the following year.— Experience. 
ANEMONE ST. BRIGID. 
This I consider one of the most useful spring and 
autumn flowering, hardy perennials for cutting or 
for borders, the flowers being double, semi-double, 
and single, with a range of colours from the most 
brilliant scarlet to purple and white. At first I 
failed to grow them satisfactorily, but with perse¬ 
verance have succeeded, and at the present time, 
March 22nd (although our thermometer has regis¬ 
tered about 10° of frost each morning for the last 
week, with a biting east wind), we have a splendid 
display of these beautiful flowers on the open ground. 
The flowers naturally close at night, which saves 
them greatly from sharp frosts. To grow them well 
select a dry south border with deep rich soil, which 
should be trenched two spits deep the previous 
autumn, a liberal supply of farmyard manure being 
placed underneath the top spit. About the end of 
March the ground should be made fine, the drills 
drawn about 3 in. deep and filled with sand in which 
shallow drills are drawn for the seed, which should 
be prepared for sowing by being well mixed with 
sand to insure its being properly distributed in the 
drills. Then cover and firm with the back of a rake. 
The plants may either be transplanted in autumn on 
ground prepared as above or allowed to remain 
where sown, when good results are sure to follow.— 
D. Buchanan, Ayrshire. 
STARTING BEGONIAS. 
It is not my intention, by again writing a few 
remarks on the above subject, to denounce Mr. C. 
Blair’s method of Begonia culture, but simply to 
give my idea of cow manure for pottiDg purposes. 
As regards its fertilising properties it is slower in its 
action than other manures, but more lasting. Of 
equal weights of horse and cow dung the former is 
the more fertilising; but taking bulk for bulk of 
each it is inferior to cow dung. But not so much as 
a stimulant was my method of adding to the com¬ 
post, as for its property of retaining moisture so 
long; thereby less watering is necessary, which, I 
said and consider still, is more beneficial in their 
flowering season, If crushed bones are used in the 
potting very little artificial manure is necessary ; as 
in themselves they contain a vast amount of plant 
feeding. Of course, different men different ways all 
the world over ; it would not do to be all of the same 
mind. But, for myself, I am not a believer in 
artificial manures when liquid manure can be 
obtained from horse, cow, or other urinaries ; as in 
my estimation it seems to be more natural and cool¬ 
ing than forcing by artificial manures. — Walter 
Hogarth, Norton Gardens, Rat ho, Midlothian. 
ERANTHEMUM PULCHELLUM 
Is a beautiful stove plant or shrub, bearing blue 
flowers in great profusion, which is so scarce in this 
department during the dull months of winter. I 
find this plant to succeed well and give finest effect 
in 4-in. or 5-in. pots when kept pinched to form good 
bushy plants, but if early bloom is wanted unpinched 
ones will answer well. Annually struck cuttings are 
more free in growth than old plants, and after this 
season’s plants have done flowering, I cut them down 
to within 6 in. of their base, and keep on dry side for a 
couple or three weeks. Young shoots will soon make 
their appearance. The plants should be placed in a 
temperature of 50“ by night, allowing a rise of 65° to 
70° with sunheat, which will make the cuttings 
