558 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
April 27 , 1901 . 
1 
referred too, and find the dimensions as follows: — 
height 13 ft., width, 14 ft., but the stem, alas, no 
thicker than a good broom handle, having been only 
planted some seven years ago. The conditions under 
which the latter plant grows are pretty much like 
those at Binny, and the treatment corresponds in 
every way with Mr. Blair's. Though quiet in colour 
the Heliotrope is a charming subject grown as a wall 
plant indoors, and associated with more showy 
subjects has a most pleasing effect. I must confess 
that my experience in regard to insects is not the 
same as Mr. Blair’s, as I find greenfly often on 
the Heliotrope when grown indoors, but a good 
syringe with a prepared mixture, or a dose of XL All, 
makes short work of master Aphis, while the Helio¬ 
trope looks fresher than before.— Brightspade. 
-- 
METHODS OF PROPAGATION. 
(Concluded, pom p. 544.) 
Whip or Tongue Grafting is the most general, 
especially in the nurseries, and if stock and sion are 
nearly equal in size so much the better. A slip of 
bark and wood is removed with a sharp knife up¬ 
wards, making a little cleft or notch on the top. 
Then take the graft and make as nearly a similar cut 
as possible, then a thin tODgue cut upwards to fit 
into the cleft at top, making quite sure the barks 
come in direct contact with each other when tied. 
This notch is merely made to hold the graft in posi¬ 
tion better, so is more a matter of convenience than 
necessity. 
Cleft Grafting is occasionally practised on old 
stocks, and is done with a mallet and chisel, and the 
scion cut wedge shape, is fitted into the cleft. One 
on each side is often done, but as in other modes 
make sure the barks meet or no union will take 
place. 
Crown or Rind Grafting is to be preferred to 
the one just alluded to, and is easily accomplished 
by making an upward cut on the bark of the stock, 
and a splice taken off the scion on one side and 
inserted between the bark and the wood. This is a 
successful way of grafting either young or old trees, 
especially the Apple. Now in all these different 
ways the graft must be made secure in its place by 
tying with cotton, raffia, or something similar, and 
covering with clay or grafting wax to exclude air, or 
union will fail to take place. Neither should the ties 
be made too tight, especially on young trees ; and 
the trees operated on must be examined every few 
days to see all is right, as if clay is used it is very 
often liable to crack, especially if a dry hot time 
sets in. If such occurs thoroughly soak with water 
and smooth over again. If time would allow it is 
not a bad plan to syringe the clay every morning; 
but where hundreds are done this could not be well 
carried out. The past year's growth is generally 
the best wood for scions, though we have used 
shoots made the previous year, but they are not to 
be preferred. Also choose your'grafts from as healthy 
a tree as possible, fighting shy of cankered or ex¬ 
hausted trees , and the same might be said in regard 
to choosing stocks. My remarks as to grafting 
apply solely to fruit trees, not having had any ex¬ 
perience with Coniferae. 
Budding. 
Now let us study the art of ' budding,” and 
though it is placed last on my paper it is not the 
less important. It is largely practised among fruit 
trees and Roses. A bud is an eye as it were with a 
portion of wood attached, and is inserted beneath 
the bark of another plant or tree usually; in fact, 
budding is closely allied to that ofgraftiog, though 
it is done later in summer, and a good deal depends 
upon after results as to when this operation is 
performed. 
July and August are the two best months, early or 
late according to the weather, and how the sap is 
runniog. If the bark can be easily raised from the 
wood, and the bud cut out easily, then is the right 
time to bud, though one w ants to study the weather 
a bit as well. Cloudy days are the best, and when 
little or no wind is blowing, as the latter soon withers 
up a bud when prepared. An expert budder will 
place this in his mouth after being made, and while 
he is preparing the stock for its reception, or put it 
in a can of water. The shoots containing the buds 
should be placed in water as soon as cut from the 
tree or bush- 
As soon as you have decided the exact position 
where the bud is to be placedj and in Roses, 
standards especially, it should be as near the stem 
as possible. Make a cut across the stock, less than 
an inch Then make a similar cut lengthways so as 
to take the bud. This cut must be fairly deep, and 
can be opened out a little on either side by the haft 
or handle of the budding knife, when it is ready to 
receive the bud. As I said just now the latter is 
generally made first, and should be chosen from 
wood of the current year’s growth. The leaf is 
generally removed, but the petiole or stalk of the 
leaf is left, so that the bud can be more conveniently 
handled. In cutting out a bud a clean cut is neces¬ 
sary, and should be made at the back of the leaf 
stalk, and bringing the knife towards you, from 1 in. 
to ij in. in length being usually sufficient. A little 
wood is cut with the bud, and it is generally neces¬ 
sary to remove a part of the woody substance from 
the centre, with the point of the knife and the thumb. 
The bud is then ready for insertion under the bark, 
which should be carefully closed and tied with 
cotton or raffia fairly tight to exclude air, as in 
grafting, or failure will take place. If only a few 
dozen are worked and could be shaded with a few 
large leaves for a few days should the weather be 
very bright, better results will follow. I allude to 
Roses mostly. 
Of course after attention is necessary as with graft¬ 
ing. See that the ligatures do not get too tight. In 
a month’s time you will be able to judge whether the 
buds have taken or not. If the leaf stalk has dropped 
away all is right, but if it has withered up and 
remains on you will find the bud has failed to form 
its part, and no union will take place, so loosen the 
ties as soon as you see the buds are taking. Early 
in spring or before the sap rises, th shoots must be 
headed back so as to push the whole energy of the 
bush or tree into the bud. Later, as growth extends, 
support each with raffia or sticks as the case may 
require, for the young growth is very brittle and 
easily snapped off with the wind. 
In budding of fruit trees care is necessary that the 
bud chosen is a wood and not a fruit bud ; but if any 
do fail to take, these can be grafted next spring 
following. Where grafting close to the ground is 
practised it is a good plan to earth them up with soil 
after claying; it will prevent the latter drying up 
and cracking. Budding is sometimes adopted on 
espalier fruit trees, if one branch should die back or 
be broken off; or if grafted in early spring and fail 
to unite by encouraging a youDg growth from the old 
stock, the same may be budded in July or August 
and replenish the gap, and so save a season. 
Well gentlemen, I think I have touched upon most 
methods of propagation adopted in this country at 
any rate. Our cousins, the Americans, may have 
more expeditious ways and means of increase from a 
horticultural standpoint ; but of this I have yet to 
learn. And while I do not claim to have brought 
forward anything new or sensational in my paper, 
something will have been achieved if only gardeners, 
especially the younger generation, will take a deeper 
interest in the reproduction of fruit, flowers, and 
vegetables, . striving to cultivate the very best 
varieties only, as they take no more space than the 
inferior kinds, and are of infinitely more value, and 
give far more credit to the grower.— James Mayne. 
JOHN CLAUDIUS LOUDON. 
(Continuedpomp. 541 .) 
From Venice he proceeded to Padua, then famous 
for its Botanic Garden. From here to Vicenza the 
Syrian Mallow (Hibiscus syriacus) constituted the 
hedges, and being in season presented a delightful, 
as well as a gorgeous appearance. He was also in 
the silk-prcducing country, and had the pleasure of 
seeing vast plantations of White Mulberry trees 
grown for feeding the silkworms. Milan was the 
goal of his next journey ; and later on he visited the 
celebrated gardens of Monza, with which he was 
particularly delighted. The people here seem to 
have been imbued with a strong feeling of the neces¬ 
sity for economising space in the greenhouses, for 
they used square pots so that no space should be 
vacant. The tubs occupied with Orange and Lemon 
trees were sunk in the ground to keep the roots 
moist. Luxurious plantations of Tuberoses were 
scenting the atmosphere. The Milan Botanic 
Garden was small but well filled. From this place 
he went to the Borromean Isles, but was not par¬ 
ticularly struck with the reputed beauty of Isola 
B_l!a. 
The Vallisneria he procured at Venice caused him 
a great deal of inconvenience while journeying 
through the northern part of Italy ; and when he 
commenced crossing into Switzerland by the Sim- 
ploD, it became still more troublesome, from the 
fact that he had to accomplish the journey on mule- 
back. Notwithstanding his difficulties, he arrived 
safely at Geneva on September 13th with his 
precious charge. In visiting the Botanic Garden 
here, he made the acquaintance of the late Professor 
de Candolle. From here he proceeded to Basle, 
where he inspected the establishment of M. Fellen- 
berg, before continuing his route to Strasburg and 
Paris. The gay city was very crowded at the time, 
and only a small bedroom was at his disposal, while 
the hotel was crowded. Himself, feeling the atmo¬ 
sphere close and stuffy, ha imagined that his precious 
Vallisneria was in the same fainting condition, and, 
opening the window, placed the tin vessel contain¬ 
ing it on the window sill, securing it so that it might 
not fall. In the morning he awoke to find the tin 
can only remained, the Vallisneria having mysteri¬ 
ously disappeared, leaving no clue as to its where¬ 
abouts. The rascally sparrow got the blame for the 
misdeed, whether deserving it or not. 
Having had enough of Paris, Mr. Loudon directed 
his face to Belgium, halting at Brussels. He thought 
little of the Botanic Garden of those days, being 
more pleased with the park and promenade on the 
ramparts to which the Garden was afterwards 
removed The Botanic Garden at Ghent pleased 
him better, as did the various subjects cultivated in 
private establishments in the neighbourhood of that 
city. On his way to England he halted at Bruges 
and Ostend, but found little to interest him; and 
reached Bayswater on October gth. 
Loudon now had the necessary information where¬ 
with to write his history of gardening, which he in¬ 
tended to form the introduction to his compendious 
work, an Encyclopaedia of Gardening, commenced in 
1819, and first appearing in 1822. He worked 
assiduously and continuously at it, notwithstanding 
the fact he suffered excruciating pain from chronic 
rheumatism in his right arm. This continued till 
1820 when he felt compelled to call in medical assis¬ 
tance. He went to Brighton to try a course of 
Mahomed’s vapour baths on the recommendations 
of his advisers. Here he submitted to great tortures 
from the shampooing and stretching operations till 
they actually broke his right arm close to the 
shoulder blade ; and though it so far healed that he 
was able to use his hand for writing for several 
years, a proper union was never formed. As above 
hinted, the Encyclopaedia of Gardening appeared in 
1822, and fully established the literary ability of its 
author, the sale of the work being described as 
extraordinary. It was a laborious work and full of 
useful and practical information, independently of 
the historical matter it contained. The large number 
of wood-cut illustrations, intercalated with the text, 
instead of being on separate pages, was looked upon 
as an innovation in those days. Early in the follow¬ 
ing year ('-823) he wrote a book on “The different 
modes of cultivating the Pineapple, 
A small work published about this time and en¬ 
titled " The Greenhouse Companion,” was believed 
to have been written wholly or in part by Mr. 
Loudon ; but if so, he must have worked under 
great difficulties, owing to the fact that he suffered 
excruciating pain during the whole of 1823. His 
right arm he was obliged to keep in an iron case 
night and day, while the rheumat sm settled in his 
left hand and so contracted his thumb and two 
fingers as to render them useless. Notwithstanding 
all this, he got up at 4 a.m. daily in order to super¬ 
intend the building of his houses in Porchester 
Terrace, Bayswater, as soon as the men commenced 
work. 
The second edition of his Encyclopaedia of Gardening 
was published in 1824, the greater portion of it 
having been rewritten and extensive additions made 
to it. The Encyclopaedia of Agriculture first appeared 
in 1825, having been written during the same year. 
Not long after this, his right arm was broken a 
second time, and he was obliged to submit to ampu¬ 
tation. Landscape gardening was abandoned, in 
order that he might devote his time more constantly 
to his pen. By this time only two fiogers on his 
left hand were of service to him, so that he was 
obliged to employ both an amanuensis and a 
draughtsman. In order to deaden the great paia 
which he endured, he resorted to the use of 
