662 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
April 27, 1901. 
READ THIS. 
A weekly award of 5s. wiil be made by the pro¬ 
prietors of The Gardening World, to the person 
who sends the most interesting or valuable item of 
news upon passing events likely to interest horticult¬ 
urists at large ; hints containing suggestive facts of 
practical interest to gardeners or glowers of plants, 
fruits, or flowers; successful methods of propagating 
plants usually considered difficult ; or any other 
tobic coming within the sphere of gardening proper. 
The articles in question should not exceed 250 words, 
and should be marked “ Competition." The address 
of the winner will be published. The Editor's 
judgment must be considered final. The communi¬ 
cations for each week should be posted not later 
than Monday night. 
The prize last week was awarded to Mr. Albert 
Marks, 4, Orchard Terrace, Chichester, Sussex, for 
his article on " Grevillea robusta," p. 538, 
The Editor would be much obliged if competitors 
would forward their articles earlier in the week as 
the work is heavy on Wednesday morning, delaying 
the paper in going to press. 
Photographs of Plants. —The proprietors would 
be pleased to receive photographs of interesting 
plants from correspondents with a view to reproduc¬ 
tion in The Gardening World. They need not 
necessarily be large ones, but such as would prove 
interesting and instructive to readers. Those repre¬ 
senting individual plants would be more acceptable 
than photographs of groups. 
-- 
Questions add snsraeRs. 
*% All correspondence relating to editorial matters 
should be addressed to “ The Editor,” 4, Dorset 
Buildings, Salisbury Square, Fleet Street, 
E C. Timely notes or notices about interesting 
matters or current topics relating to gardens, gar¬ 
deners, or gardening, are always cordially welcomed. 
When newspapers are sent would our friends please mark 
the paragraphs or articles they wish us to see ? 
Blisters in the Glass of a Greenhouse.— J. B : 
We understand ihat the plants you grow or wish to 
grow in the greenhouse do not require shading, 
otherwise you could have got rid of the defects in 
the glass in that way. If that is the case, we think 
the best plan would be to paint the blisters with 
white lead, which would prevent them from concen¬ 
trating the rays of the sun on particular spots on the 
foliage of the plants beneath. Permanent shading 
for the whole of the roof would be undesirable and 
should be avoided. For the sake of appearance, 
something might be put in the white lead that 
would deaden its colour and make it as inconspicuous 
as possible. 
Substitute for Onions in Salads. — P. M. : We 
recommend you to grow Chives (Allium Schoeno- 
prasum) belonging to the same genus as the Onion 
and of the easiest cultivation. It is a very old- 
fashioned herb that seems to be more and more 
neglected every year. The bulbs are very small and 
the leaves slender, growing about 6 in. high if in 
good soil and not too crowded. You could plant 
them in small tufts, about 6 in. apart in the row and 
about 10 in. between the lines, so as to afford room 
for a narrow hoe to run through the ground between 
the lines to keep down weeds. Any ordinary fairly 
good garden ground will answer the purpose. You 
could plant them in the border along with other 
herbs used in flavouring, and as they are perennial, 
all you need do is to lift them every second or third 
year, when the tufts get crowded, break them up 
into small tufts and replant in well dug, manured 
ground. The leaves are cut as required for use. 
Tennis Court Made of Ashes.— Tennis : There are 
two sizes for a tennis court, one for two players, and 
a double one for four players, and the usual plan is 
to lay out the ground for a double court, so that 
four persons can play at the same time if so desired. 
If the ground is only laid out for two players the 
game would always be limited to that number. In 
either case the court should be 78 ft. long; and if 
intended for two players it should be 27 ft wide; 
but for a double court the width should be 36 ft. 
Having made the ground permanently for the double 
court, you can chalk it off either for two players or for 
four as may be desired. The service lines should be 
drawn across the court from side to side, and at 
18 ft. from either end. You will then find that a line 
drawn along the middle of the court from one service 
line to the other will be 42 ft. The net, of course, is 
to be set up across the court, from side to side, 
exactly in the middle. The above indicate the size 
of a single 3 nd also a double court, and the various 
lines to be chalked upon the same. Tennis courts 
are usually made upon grass, as the game is mostly 
played in summer; but we suppose your people 
want to play in winter, in which case the ground 
should be laid cut with ashes to keep it dry. The 
soil should be taken out to the depth of 12 in. to 
18 in , and the bottom filled with chalk, if you can 
get it. If you cannot get chalk use brickbats, which 
may be broken to pieces about the size of one or 
both fists. Spread this evenly and cover with some 
finer material to fill up the interstices, then beat it 
all down hard with heavy iron or wooden rammers 
to make it perfectly solid. Then cover the 
whole to the depth (of 3 in. or 4 in. with sifted 
ashes, beating them down firmly as in the other 
case. All this material being porous will allow the 
water to pass away, so that the surface will be dry 
and firm for playiog. The coat of ashes should be 
level with the rest of the ground. There are books 
that treat of the making of grass lawns, namely, 
" Lawns," by Messrs. Sutton & Sons, Reading, price 
is., and an illustrated edition, bound in cloth, by the 
same authors, price 2s. 6d.; also "Lawns, Lawn 
Tennis, &c.,’’ by Messrs. ]. Carter & Co., High Hol- 
born, London, not priced, but probably 6d. to is. 
Should Snowflakes be Lifted?-T. B. R.: We 
suppose you refer to the Spring Snowflake (Lecojum 
vernum) as that is the only one which could have 
flowered by this time. There is no need for their 
being lifted, if you can plant the bed without dis¬ 
turbing them. The foliage will by and bye die down 
so as to be inconspicuous. If the bed was well dug 
and manured previous to the planting of the edging, 
you can easily plant something that will make good 
growth without having to dig up the outside margin 
of it for another year at least. If you think it 
desirable that the bulbs should be moved, you ought 
to do this without injuring the roots beyond what 
may be unavoidable. Replant them carefully in a 
piece of reserve ground, and water them to settle 
the soil about the bulbs, and giving them an oppor¬ 
tunity of ripening off gradually and naturally. 
Destroying Mole Crickets.— W. H. D.: A good 
plan would be to ascertain where their nests are 
situated, digging them up and destroying both nests 
and eggs. This cannot easily be done in beds of 
seedlings, but as June is the time when these nests 
are to be found, you can wait till then. In the mean¬ 
time you can make holes in the alleys or pathways, 
and plunge a pot in each, leaving the soil nicely 
smoothed round the pots, so that when rambling 
about on the surface of the ground, the crickets may 
fall into these traps and be held prisoners till you 
arrive in the morning to destroy them. During dry 
weather lay some freshly cut pieces of turf on the 
ground and water the same before leaving off work 
at night. These attract them and you can examine 
the same every morning. 
Ourisia coccinea dying off.— A. K.\ It is fairly 
hardy in the southern and more favoured parts of 
England, especially if planted in sheltered positions. 
It also requires the soil to be fairly moist and cool 
during the summer months, and for this reason 
some plant it in peaty soil, or that containing a good 
proportion of leaf mould. Either the soil or the 
situation in which you planted it may have been un¬ 
favourable to it, especially during the winter months, 
so that your best plan in future would be to keep a 
reserve of plants in pots which may be stood in a cold 
frame during winter. This may not, in fact is not 
likely to, keep out frost during severe weather, but 
if the soil should get frozen, the frames can be 
kept close till the soil thaws gradually. Should you 
have strong sunshine during the day you may resort 
to shading, which will prevent rapid thawing, and 
thereby insure the safety of the plants. 
Peas to Come into Use in July and August.— 
J. P. : Of the varieties you mention, Sutton’s Main- 
crop Marrowfat is a third early Pea and will give 
you the earliest supply. Sutton’s Conqueror Mar¬ 
rowfat and Sutton's Reading Giant both come in the 
fourth division, whilst Sutton's Latest of All comes 
in the fifth division. To make sure of getting Peas 
by the end of July and in August, you should make 
a sowing of all of them at once. It depends upon 
the nature of the summer we get as to the time they 
will come into bearing. If the summer proves hot 
and dry and the Peas seem inclined to come in 
before you want them, you must mulch the ground 
and give the Peas a heavy watering occasionally, 
which will keep them growing longer. Another 
sowing of the earliest one, or even of the three earlier 
sorts, may be made ten or fourteen days later, which 
will prolong the season. If sown about the middle 
of June, Sutton’s Latest of All should furnish you 
witn a supply to the middle of November in your 
mild district. It is now time enough to sow all of 
them, however, to have them ready by the time 
mentioned. 
Names of Plants.— Sigma : The Willow is Salix 
alba vitellina or the Golden Osier ; the Myosotis is 
M. collina, which grows a little taller under more 
favourable conditions, and is very pretty ; the moss 
also is very pretty, and is a species of Hypnum, but 
we do not undertake the naming of mosses.—T. M. ; 
1, Dendrobium primulinum ; 2, Dendrobium crassi- 
node; 3, Platycliais glumacea; 4, Dendrobium 
nobile var.; 5, Odontcglossum odoratum; 6, 
Odontoglossum andersonianum.— A. W. M.: 1, 
Narcissus odorus rugulosus : 2, Narcissus odorus; 
3, Narcissus moschatus cernuus; 4, Corydalis 
solida; 5, Muscari botryoides.— H. Warwick : 1, 
Pulmonaria officinalis ; 2, Forsythia suspensa; 3, 
Daphne Mezereum alba; 4, Spiraea prunifolia flore 
pleL o ; 5, Narcissus Telamonius plenus ; 6, Anemone 
blanda.— A. Davis : 1, Sparmannia africana; 2, 
Hardenbergia comptoniana; 3, Acacia armata; 4, 
Bcrcnia heteropbylla; 5, Salvia Heerii.— A. S. M. ; 
1, Aloe mitraeformis ; 2, Gasteria verrucosa. 
Communications Received. — Doonfoot. — S. 
Gorer & Son.—James Mills.—M. Temple.—G. W. 
uickson.—D. T.—M. B.—H. W.—S. R.—F. W. M. 
—A. R. M,—D. C.—W. A Parsons (next week). 
-.- 
TRADE CATALOGUE RECEIVED. 
H. Cannell & Sons, Swanley, Kent.—Illustrated 
and complete Floral Guide of Plants for 1901. 
FIXTURES FOR 1901. 
(Secretaries of shows will oblige us by sending early notice 
of their fixtures.) 
May. 
2. —Linnean Society Meeting. 
4.—Royal Botanical Society Meeting; Societie 
Francaise d'Horticulture de LondresMeeting 
7. —R.H.S. Committees ; Royal Gardeners’ Orphan 
Fund (Annual Dinner at Hotel Cecil). 
13.—United Horticultural Benevolent and Provi¬ 
dential Society Committees' Meeting. 
16.—Royal Botanical Society Meeting. 
21. —Kew Guild Dinner at Holborn Restaurant. 
22. —R.H.S. Great Temple Show (3 days); Gar¬ 
deners’ Royal Benevolent Institution Annual 
Dinner at Hotel Metropole ; Bath and W. and 
S. Counties Society and Somerset County 
Agricultural Association at Croydon (5 days). 
25. —Royal Botanical and Horticultural Society of 
Manchester, Whitsuntide Exhibition (25th to 
30th). 
June. 
1. —Royal Botanical Society Meeting; Societie 
Francaise d’Horticulture de Londres. 
2. —Ghent Show. 
4.—R.H.S. Committees; .Devon County Agricul¬ 
tural at Torquay (3 days). 
6.—Linnean Society Meeting. 
10—United Horticultural Benevolent and Provi¬ 
dential Society Committees’ Meeting. 
12. —Royal Cornwall Agricultural Association at 
B dmin (2 days) ; Yorkshire Gala and Horti¬ 
cultural Exhibition at York (3 days). 
18. —R.H.S. Cor mittees. 
19. —Oxfordshire Horticultural Exhibition. 
20. —Linnean Society Meeting ; Royal Botanical 
Society Meeting. 
26. —N.R.S., Richmond. 
27. —Colchester Rose and Hort. Society Show. 
29. —Windsor and Eaton Rose Show ip Eaton Col¬ 
lege Grounds. 
July. 
2. —R.H.S. Committees (Roses); Southampton Ex¬ 
hibition (2 days). 
3. —Hanley Horticultural Fete (2 days); Croydon 
Horticultural Society Show ; Farningham 
Rose and Horticultural Society Show. 
4. —Norwich Rose Show. 
6.—N.R.S., Metropolitan ; Royal Botanical Society 
Meeting ; Societie Francaise d'Horticulture 
de Londres Meeting. 
8. —United Horticultural Benevolent and Provi¬ 
dential Society Committees’ Meeting 
9. —Wolverhampton Floral Fete (3 days). 
11.—Bath Floral Fete and Rose Show. 
13. —Royal Botanical and Horticultural Society of 
Manchester Rose Exhibition. 
16. —Royal Horticultural Society Exhibition, and 
Conference on Lilies at Chiswick (2 days). 
17. —N.R.S., Ulverston (North Lonsdale Rose Show); 
Cardiff and County Horticultural Show (2 
days). 
18. —Hoddesdon Exhibition; Royal Botanical Society 
Meeting. 
19. —National Carnation and Picotee Society (pro¬ 
visional). 
23 — Durham, Northumberland, and Newcastle 
Botanical and Horticultural Society Exhi¬ 
bition at Newcastle (2 days). 
24.—Strabane Horticultural Exhibition. (2 days); 
Southern Counties Carnation Society Show. 
25 — Prescot Exhibition ; Selby Exhibition ; National 
Sweet Pea Society (2 days). 
30. —Buckingham Exhibition; R.H S. Committees. 
31. —Wilis. Exhibition. 
August. 
r—Isle of Wight Horticultural Association Exhi¬ 
bition. 
2. —Devon and Exeter Horticultural Society ; Sum¬ 
mer Flower Show. 
3. —Auldearn Horticultural Society. 
5. —Atherstone Exhibition ; Castleford Exhibition 
(2 days); Eynsford Exhibition ; Cholmond- 
eley. 
6. —Abbey Park, Leicester, Flower Show (2 days). 
8.—North Oxford Exhibition. 
10.—Keighley Horticultural Society. 
13.-R H S. Committees. 
14—Clevedon Exhibition; Sevenoaks Exhibition. 
16. —National Co-operative Festival at the Crystal 
Palace (2 days). 
17. —Bankfoot (Perth) Horticultural Society. 
20. —Grandpont Horticultural Society. 
