586 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
May 11, 1901. 
cn their cultivation he makes the following state¬ 
ment ;— " Generally, a winter temperature of from 
50° to 55°, and a summer one of from to 8o° 
during shade; or in sunshine up to go° will be 
found advantageous.”— P. R. 
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EAST LOTHIAN STOCKS. 
The time will soon be here for planting out Stocks 
of all kinds, and I would advise those who have a 
few plants of the East Lothian varieties to spare, 
to plant them in the kitchen garden in fairly good 
soil. Allow them to grow there until they show 
the dower buds, when they should be carefully 
lifted and placed in pots. Seven-inch pots I find 
answer best. A few may be potted up in a small 
state and grown in pots all along, but the former 
method is best, as it entails far less labour in water¬ 
ing, and always some of the plants come single, and 
therefore useless. 
When lifted the large plants ought to be placed on 
the north side of a wall until established, after which 
they should be placed in the full sun, all dead 
leaves removed, and well attended to with 
water. I also cut the flower buds off most of the 
plants, as it is in April and May I find them of 
most use. As soon as growth starts in spring top- 
dress with good soil, giving also to each plant about 
two tea-spoonfuls of Thomson's manure. Nothing 
but clean water will be required, until the flower 
buds show, when liquid manure twice a week will 
greatly assist in developing the fragrant blossoms. 
The perfume when grown under glass is sweeter 
and more delicate, and altogether for cut flowers 
or conservatory decoration, the East Lothian Stock 
has few equals — C. Blair, Binny, Uphall, N.B. 
BOUVARDIAS. 
Although Bouvardias are usually regarded as late 
autumn and winter flowering plants, they may be 
had in bloom nearly throughout the year. One year 
old cuttings are the best for early summer blooming, 
but early struck cuttings make good plants for 
flowering in August. The variety most suitable for 
summer flowering is Candidissima, with pure white 
flowers. This forms a very dwarf and compact 
plant, and if stopped evenly all the shoots will come 
into flower at the same time. Jasminiflora is 
another good white, and Jasminoides paniculata may 
be recommended, being very free flowering and 
dwarf in habit. Mrs. R. Green is a general 
favourite. It varies a little in colour, but at its best 
it is a very pleasing shade of salmon-pink. Presi¬ 
dent Cleveland is by far the best scarlet we have. 
The oldest scarlet variety Hogarth is still in 
demand. The double variety of this, Alfred Neuner 
(white), aDd President Garfield (pink), are all the 
doubles worth growing. The plants should be 
potted in light, porous soil and grown on in warmth 
during the early part of the season, and later on 
they will do well in cold pits, the lights being taken 
off in favourable weather. Although Bouvardias 
eDjoy hot, dry weather they must not be allowed to 
get too dry at the root, and the syringe should be 
used freely, which will go a long way towards keep¬ 
ing off insects. They should have manure water 
when the pots are full of roots. — Albert Marks, 4 , 
Orchard Terrace, Chichester, Sussex. 
-ft - 
CARPET BEDDING. 
As the time for bedding out is almost upon us, a few 
remarks on this important item will probably be of 
interest to readers. The term "Carpet Bedding” 
originated, it is believed, from the flatness which the 
arrangements were made to assume when the style 
first came into vogue. But now the flatness and 
formality are broken up with graceful foliage plants, 
so that the name or term is not very appropriate. 
In choosing position we must be guided by the sur¬ 
roundings, climate, and last, but not least, individual 
taste. As regards extent, it is a personal matter. 
As patterns are generally complicated, and as every 
class of plants cannot be suited, the best soil that 
we can command should be used. The soil should 
be broken very finely, and evenly, so that the design 
can be marked out with precision. Attention should 
be paid to the edgings, if the beds are on turf; they 
should be raised at least 3 in. above the grass. The 
pattern decided on should be drawn out on paper. 
The beds should then be marked out previous to 
plari ng. A stout, plank resting on two blocks of 
wood (one at each end or side of the bed) should be 
placed across the bed to avoid trampling on the 
same. Always plant carefully, taking care not to 
press the plants too hard or the soil will crack. As 
regards arrangements undue formality should be 
avoided by introducing dot plants.— T. IV. Dollery, 
The Gardens, Whitburn, Sunderland. 
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DAVALLIAS (ORDER FILICES). 
These useful Ferns are truly worthy of cultivation, 
as they will succeed equally well in the greenhouse 
as in the stove. Some of their native places are 
Japan, New Zealand, Australia and Hindustan, and 
they owe their name to Edmund Davall (a Swiss 
botanist). The fronds are very graceful, somewhat 
triangular in shape, and many different tints of 
green can be distinguished among the several varie¬ 
ties. For cutting purposes these subjects are in¬ 
valuable, owing to the length of time they keep 
fresh. By means of the rhizomes they can be 
twisted and secured with moss interwoven into any 
shape the cultivator may desire for the purposes of 
decorating. Fernery rafters are often seen hanging 
with balls or wreaths of these Ferns, and it is truly 
a very refreshing sight to witness. No overhead 
watering is required and only a thin shading need 
be used when the sun is shining brightly, as a light 
place near the glass is the very thing that suits these 
Ferns. Abundance of moisture should be given 
during the growing season and sparingly during the 
winter. If there is a desire to cultivate the Ferns in 
pans, use the shallow ones with wide mouths and 
take great care not to bury the rhizomes, as it is 
very injurious. A light compost, such as leaf mould 
and sand should be used. A good species is bullata. 
The rhizomes are covered with reddish-brown hairs. 
The bright green fronds are very elegant.— G. W. D. 
EUPHORBIA AND POINSETTIA. 
Euphorbia jacquiniaeflora and the Poinsettia are 
two very flue plants for the stove ; and may be had 
in flower from October to March. The former 
succeeds well planted out, and trained up the wall 
or roof in the warmest part of the stove. If pot 
plants are required insert three or four cuttings in 
small pots, keep close in propagating frame until 
rooted, pot singly in 6o’s, and flower in 5-in. or 6 in. 
pots. When about 6 in. high they should be stopped, 
and will generally break into three shoots ; and this 
is sufficient for one-year-old plants. They may be 
potted bodily, but treated this way and not pinched 
back the shoots will be much stronger. When 
finished flowering rest for about three months. The 
culture for the Poinsettia is much the same as 
Euphorbia jacquiniaeflora, but the species vary in 
some respects, the Poinsettia being a stronger 
grower. Place the old plants in heat the end of 
May, keep watered and they will produce plenty of 
cuttings ; insert singly in small pots without crocks 
to prevent breaking roots afterwards. Put them on 
a spent hot-bed and keep near the glass. By strik¬ 
ing batches of cuttings, plants of various heights can 
be obtained. Plants with single flowers will need 
5-in. pots, and soil one half loam and equal parts 
leaf mould and dried cow manure, with little sand. 
After flowering keep dry to supply cuttings for 
following season.— Wargravian. 
CLIANTHUS. 
This genus contains two species, namely, C. 
Dampierii and C. puniceus. The former is a native 
of North and South Australia and New South Wales, 
and is an herbaceous perennial, growing about 2 ft. 
in height. It has pinnate leaves of a silvery gray, 
and red flowers with a dark purple blotch at the 
base of the standard petal; the flowers when fully 
expanded being between 4 in. and 5 in. in length. It 
is remarkably difficult to cultivate, and, if anyone 
should have had the good fortune to succeed in grow¬ 
ing it to perfection, it would be interesting to know 
what peculiar treatment it requires. C. puniceus is 
a native of New Zealand, and is an evergreen climb¬ 
ing shrub, sometimes in a suitable position, growing 
to a height of 12 ft. or 15 ft. It is well adapted for 
training up a pillar or rafter in a greenhouse. When 
planted out it requires a well drained position, and a 
compost of loam, leaf mould, and charcoal. It is 
comparatively easy to cultivate. Care, however, 
should be taken to provide sufficient water to the 
roots during the growing season, and also to syringe 
freely, as it is subject to red spider. The flowers of 
this species are of a brilliant red, and about 2 in. in 
length. They are produced in short pendulous 
racemes, about twelve flowers in a raceme, and with 
their peculiar form and bright colour are most 
attractive. C. puniceus is also known as Glory Vine 
and Parrot's-bill.— F. W. M. 
DEUTZIA GRACILIS. 
Where small flowering plants are valued for house 
and table decorations this is well worth growing. If 
cuttings, which are plentiful now, are taken off with 
a heel, inserted in sandy soil and placed in a cool, 
close frame, they will root readily. When they are 
rooted they should be potted singly in 3-in. or 4-in. 
pots, using a mixture of two parts loam, one part 
leaf soil, and half a part of sand. Place the young 
plants in a temperature of about 60°. When they 
are established in the pots pinch out the tip of the 
shoot. Several breaks will be the result. If the 
plants are then kept gently growing near the glass in 
the house, and afterwards in a cold frame, they 
should make nice growths about 5 in. or 6 in. long, 
with several flower buds on each. When well 
rooted they will be greatly benefited by having 
occasional waterings of manure water. In the 
autumn, when the leaves begin to change colour, 
gradually lessen the water supply until the leaves 
are off, when they will only require an occasional 
watering to keep the soil from getting dust-dry. The 
protection of the cold frame will be quite sufficient 
for the winter. The plants can then be gradually 
forced in the early spring, and will be found very 
useful if covered with white graceful flowers. After 
being forced, if repotted, they will make nice plants 
for 6-in. or 7-in. pots next year.— E. Brown, The 
Gardens, Nostell Priory, Wakefield, Yorks. 
SMALL PLANTS OF CHRYSANTHE¬ 
MUMS. 
A good method of growing Chrysanthemums for 
facing the front of a group, or edging the front of the 
conservatory, is, instead of throwing the side shoots 
away that form along this time on plants grown for 
exhibition, to let them remain till they get between 
2 in. and 3 in. long, then break them out, make them 
into cuttings and insert singly in thumb pots in some 
good sandy compost. Put them under hand lights, 
or a big box, with some coal ashes inside and some 
squares of glass laid over. Keep close, well settle in 
with a fine rose, and shade from strong sun. When 
rooted, gradually expo:e them to the air and sun. 
When nicely rooted, transfer them to their flowering 
pots, which would be 48's or 5 in., potting them in 
some good soil. Syringe if the weather is hot for the 
first few days, instead of saturating them with water. 
Then give them one good watering. After that 
water in the usual way and according as the plants 
fill the pots with roots, manure water should be given 
and when the bud shows it must be retained, breaking 
away all side shoots, and increasing the strength of 
the manure water till the maximum is reached. 
House in the first week of October, fumigate, and 
treat them the same as the other Chrysanthemums. 
— J. Harewood. 
fiardp fruit Garden. 
Many of the fruit trees are now laden with blossoms, 
and so far the outlook is very favourable, although 
the sudden drop in the temperature for a night or 
two some time back, caused much anxiety amongst 
fruit growers. Nowhere can a prettier picture be 
seen than in the large fruit-growing districts at this 
time of the year. This season the trees are laden 
with blossom, and if the weather holds favourable 
for pollination and king frost does not make war on 
the sets, we may look forward to heavy crops. 
Wall Fruit. —Peaches and Nectarines require a 
lot of attention now, as they must be gone over 
several times for the purpose of disbudding. It is a 
practice that cannot be condemned too stroDgly, to 
go over the trees and do the disbudding all at one 
lime, or to do it hurriedly. It is an operation that 
requires a deal of forethought, and to do it properly 
is not so easy as it looks. It must be borne in mind 
that the buds that are selected to remain on the trees 
are to produce the next year’s fruiting growths. 
Endeavour to leave shoots that will be able to obtain 
