602 
May 18, 1901. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
out-of-door Roses we have that in any way answer 
for border culture. Even here, however, it is only 
in the roost sheltered sites and on the best, well- 
drained loams that these can be expected to exist 
and flower well. Once the Teas have become 
established in a certain soil, they thrive most 
wonderfully, so that is well to make the fullest and 
best preparations possible. Isabella Sprunt is more 
robust, and Aroazone, or Etoile de Lyon, are in 
most cases fairly successful out-of-doers. 
The beautiful Mdme. C. Guinoisseau is one of the 
finest yellow Roses that one could name, for open- 
air work. Marecbal Niel, which has been already 
named, is far hardier, I think, than maDy people 
will believe. It is successfully grown, I have heard, 
by Messrs. Croll, of Dundee, and even pruned in the 
open-air in their nursery, during the month of 
February, if the season is mild. Frequently, 
branches of indoor plants of Marecbal Niel are 
allowed to grow through the ventilators of the house 
in which this Rose is planted, and such branches 
have wintered well in their exposed condition. 
0 ;her good yellow Roses that receive considerable 
attention are Mdme. Eugene Verdier, Celine Fores- 
tier, Belle Lyonnaise and Le Soleil. Besides these 
Roses for borders and walls, the Austrian Briers, 
Harrisonii and Persian Yellow, should not be over¬ 
looked. Austrian Yellow is another good sort. 
What is wanted is a cross with some of the best 
yellow Teas, H. Teas and Noisettes with the robust 
Hybrid Perpetual Roses. Again, too, what about 
the climbing polyantha class ? We have Aglaia or 
Yellow Rambler, as it is called, but we want also a 
Rambler like Turner’s crimson variety. There is 
yet a wide field open to growers of Roses, and the 
Rose growers are quite wide-awake.— E. N. V. R. 
- 
BROMELIADS. 
One hears of Bromeliads, but outside of botanical 
gardens very few plants of this genus are ever seen 
True, ihe Tillandsias find a fair acceptance and 
Ananasa sativa variegata may also be found in the 
generality of stoves, but for a genus so striking and 
picturesque, and so interesting, not forgetting their 
usefulness as floral receptacles, a little more might 
be known of them. The Bromeliads, like the 
Aroids, are most of them purely tropical, inhabiting 
the forest regions of the Amazon where they form 
quite a feature of the vegetation. Many of the 
species are terrestrial and as such they are cultivated 
in pots in our stoves. They readily adapt them¬ 
selves to an epiphytic form of existence, and at Kew 
for instance many of the Bilbergias are grown upon 
the pillars of the Mexican house, in cork bark 
p ckets. 
In their forest habitats many species have become 
purely epiphytal, and as they have a grand adapta¬ 
tion for seed distribution they are able to spread and 
grow luxuriantly. It is said that they surpass the 
Orchids in the number of individual specimens to be 
found, though there is a greater variety amongst the 
Orchids. There are some forty genera of Brome¬ 
liads with about 400 species. The plants have a 
markedly characteristic rosette arrangement of the 
leaves, which are fleshy in a great many genera ; 
sometimes rigid and spiny as in the Pine Apples, 
and all clasp the stem with their base, usually 
forming a hollow arrangement in which water 
collects. 
It is this adaptation that has afforded the enter¬ 
prising American florists a subject which they use as 
a floral receptacle. In their native environment 
these hollow-like axils become clogged up with 
decaying debris in which certain small insectivorous 
plants, as for instance, Utricularia, live. The roots 
of these epiphytal Bromeliads do not draw much 
support for the plant. Water seems to be the chief 
medium of nourishment, and this is absorbed into 
the leaves through the action of peculiar scaly hairs 
at the base of each lea f . A species of Tillandsia T. 
usneoides L., however, has a totally different 
structure, but the foregoing describes the general 
characteristics of the order. The flowers of the 
different genera, especially Puya, Tillandsia, Pit- 
cairnea, Bilbergia and Bromelia, are very conspic¬ 
uous. They rise in scaly spikes straight from the 
centre of the plants, and are variously bright coloured. 
Bromeliaceae, according to Wittmack’s classification, 
is divided primarily into four sub-orders, as: (r) 
Bromeliae, (2) Pitcairnieae ; (3) Puyeae ; (4) Til- 
landsieae. — B. 
ARABIS LUCIDA AUREA VARIEGATA. 
This is unquestionably the prettiest and most 
durable gold variegated dwarf hardy plant in 
existence. I know it fails with many who admire it, 
and after a few years slips away, in spite of rich soil 
and too much attention. It likes a solid loam, not rich, 
where it should be allowed to remain for several years. 
It must have its flower stems removed previous to 
seed production ; an operation best performed in 
early morning, with a sharp knife. This Arabis may 
be propagated in September by division. This note 
is prompted by a reply to " T. R.," in The Garden¬ 
ing World, of April 6th, p. 508, where he is told of 
some beautiful plants for his “ Carpet bed of hardy 
plants." Should his eye catch this, he will find 
Arabis Lucida aurea a charming subject to blend 
with those there Darned.— Ulsta. 
-- 
PROPAGATION OF FICUS ELASTICA. 
Having a plant of the above which had grown too 
tall to be of aDy use, I determined to propagate the 
same by stem rooting. I took the top of the plant 
off first, put it in a thumb pot and plunged in a 
good bottom heat. I then proceeded to cut the stem 
nearly half way through, about 1 in. below each leaf 
and put a small pebble in to keep it open. I pro¬ 
ceeded, in the same manner, with fifteen of the 
leaves. After cutting each leaf, I bound the slit and 
the stem with sphagnum moss aDd placed in one of 
the vineries we had started. The plant was syringed 
thrice a day to keep the moss damp. In about a 
month’s time roots were seen coming through the 
moss and I took the youDg plants off. The operation 
was a complete success, and I have now fifteen nice 
young plants coming on. It is a much easier method 
than taking eyes of the above and does not entail as 
much labour.—T. W. Dollery, The Cardens, Whitburn, 
Sunderland. 
FORCING FRENCH BEANS. 
The forcing of these Beans is a very simple and rapid 
way of getting a good crop. Little trouble need be 
taken as regards the crocking and cleaning out of 
the pots, as they only require a constant damping 
with the syriDge. Large sized pots are preferable 
to the small, say, 8-in., which should be filled to 
within 2 in. of the top with a mixture of loam aDd 
mushroom manure in equal parts. The soil should 
be pressed firmly to promote a strong growth. The 
Beans may then be laid carefully on the top, putting 
about ten in an 8-in. pot, and then the fine part of 
the soil should be obtained and the pots filled to 
within 1 in. of the top, pressing the soil loosely with 
the finger-tips apart, thus enabling the soil to settle 
between the Beans. Start them with a bottom heat 
of 7o Q or 75 0 , aDd when they attain the height of 
6 in. stake them carefully, putting the stakes between 
the growing Beans, as the roots will get easily 
damaged in their young state. When they have 
reached the height of about 8 in. no more bottom heat 
will be required, but a house temperature of 6o° or 
65°. Constant syringing should be given to prevent 
attacks of insects. Progress and Ne Plus Ultra are 
two good kinds.— G. W. D. 
TWO USEFUL BEGONIAS FOR WINTER 
FLOWERING. 
Among the many fine varieties of Begonias for winter 
flowering, Gloire de Lorraine, and Glorie de Sceaux 
stand first, producing their beautiful pink flowers in 
such profusion in mid winter. Those who have not 
already started propagating these, should do so at 
once. As soon as cuttings are obtainable they should 
be taken. 
It is well in preparing the cuttings to remove the 
scales at the base of the leaf stalk as they often decay 
and cause the cutting to damp. Insert them in fine soil 
composed of peat, loam, and leaf soil, with plenty of 
sand. Place the cuttings in a warm propagating pit, 
leaving on a chink of air to allow superfluous moisture 
to escape. Do not damp overhead too often. As 
soon as the cuttiDgs are rooted remove them to the 
stove. 
When they are sufficiently rooted, they should be 
potted siDgly in 3-in. pots using light soil. 
When ready for another shift they should have 
5-in. pots using a mixture of loam one part, peat and 
leaf-soil one part, and enough sand with a little char¬ 
coal added to keep the whole porous. 
Well crock the pots and pot moderately firm, By 
this time a heated pit where they can be kept close 
to the glass will suit them. 
When well rooted give occasional manurial water¬ 
ings. Pinch out all flowers until autumn, when they 
should be taken to the stove to flower. There is a 
white flowered ■ variety of Glorie de Lorraine which 
is very effective.— E Brown, The Gardens, Nostell 
Priory, Wakefield, Yorks. 
-- 
GLOXINIAS. 
The two best ways to propagate Gloxinias are sowing 
seed or by leaf cuttings. Sow the former in 
February in pans of light soil, equal parts of peat, 
leaf mould and sand, cover the seed lightly and place 
on a brisk bottom heat of 70°. 
When the seedlings appear prick them off, eight or 
ten in a 5-in. pot, replace them on the bottom heat, 
and shade from direct rays of the sun. Pot them 
off singly when large enough and flower in 4|-in. 
pots. The same kind of soil as prescribed for the 
seedlings, adding a portion of fibrous loam, and not 
potted too firmly, should produce some good speci¬ 
mens. By an occasional sowing, a succession of 
bloom may be obtained from March until September. 
Take leaf cuttings when the plants are ripening, with 
a portion of the leaf stalk attached; insert in the 
same kind of soil as above. 
When the plants have finished flowering, gradually 
diminish the supply of water, discontinue shading 
until the foliage is dried off, then store them in a dry 
shed in the pots in which they have grown A few may 
be started in January. Shake out the old soil and 
do not over-pot them, and the crown of the tubers 
should be on a level with the surface of the soil. 
Little water will be needed until growth has com¬ 
menced. Pot on as required and put them on a shelf 
in the stove near the glass. Give plenty of light, 
and sturdy plants with strong flowers will be the 
result.— G. B. 
GREVILLEA ROBUSTA. 
The other week a correspondent wrote of the diffi¬ 
culty of raising these elegant plants from seed. I 
have never experienced the least trouble to raise a 
full supply every spring. I sow in 5-in. pots about 
the middle of February, give a gentle watering, and 
cover the pots with a square of glass, place in a close 
case, and in about four weeks the plants begin to 
appear. I prick them off into small pots as soon as the 
first true leaf is formed. A shift into 4-in. pots serves 
for the first season. It is wonderful how well the 
Grevillea thrives in very small pots. This is a great 
advantage, as no plant is better suited for dinner 
table decoration, where small pots are so often 
necessary. I have heard that the nurserymen 
receive fresh seeds of this plant in March, so those 
who have any difficulty with raising these plants 
might procure their seeds at the beginning of April, 
and may have better luck then. Here is a wrinkle 
in the cultivation of the Grevillea that I do not think 
is much known. When kept for two years the plants 
get very " leggy ’’ and unsightly. Too many then 
fling the plants away as useless. This is wrong. 
All that is required is to cut it down to about 2 in. 
from the soil, and in a short time it will break and 
quickly grow into as handsome a plant as a seedling 
would make. This may be repeated every time the 
plant gets too big, with the very best results.—C. 
Blair, Binny, Uphall, N B. 
-- 
THE PALM HOUSE, KEW. 
So much is written in the horticultural papers about 
this famous house and wonderful collection of plants 
that one would expect the supply of matter would 
eventually give out. In spite of this publicity, 
however, there is, at all times, and at all seasons, 
something about the house that renders a visit 
interesting and enjoyable. There is always some 
new charm to be seen, some new feature developed. 
During the past winter the plants have all been 
re-arraDged and a great improvement has been 
obtained in the general effect. It has been found 
necessary to cut down many of the large Palms, and 
several of the tropical Dicotyledons in the Cycad end. 
Cocos plumosa has been cut down and replaced 
by Hyophorbe indica; the giant Sugar Palm, Arenga 
saccharifera, has been replaced by Pandanus L3is; 
Archontophoenix Cunninghami (Seaforthia elegans) 
has given place to an Arenga saccharifera; the 
graceful Caryota has also been removed and a 
Prichardia pacifica planted in its place. 
