July 6, 1901. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 717 
pufi of smoke will keep them on the move until all 
are in. If the swarm is given one frame of larva 
about three to five days old, this will make certain of 
their remaining in the hive. Place a super on the 
top of frames, and provided weather is suitable it is 
surprising how quickly they will fill them if they are 
a fair swarm. Allowing them only six frames they 
are forced to enter the sections, storing all their 
honey there. In a week or ten days another frame 
filled with foundation may be given them until the 
full completement is made up at intervals of a week 
between each. If no after swarms are wanted place 
the hive containing the swarm on the stand occupied 
by old stock. This will weaken it so much that they 
will not think of swarming. If bad weather comes 
give a pound or-two of syrup.— Doonfoot. 
-- 
BERBERIS STENOPHYLLA. 
Visiting the gardens at Ardurden, near Helens¬ 
burgh, I noticed one of my old favourites, and 
worthy of note, Berberis stenophylla. The thought 
struck me how this splendid plant is not more freely 
grown about gardens instead of some uninteresting 
subjects. It is quite hardy, flowers profusely, and 
thrives in any soil, although its habit is a little free. 
Mr. Sutherland, the gardener, mentioned he had no 
difficulty in growing it as the light soil seemed to 
suit this plant well. I noticed also in the kitchen 
garden some splendid crops of Onions, Carrots, 
Peas, etc., ready for use, free from all vermin pests 
that annoy so many gardeners. It is possible the 
Dahlias from this district will be nearer the mark 
this season than last year.— A Cabbage. 
CHRYSANTHEMUM NOTES. 
Now the Chrysanthemums should be all potted and 
in summer quarters. I think an 8-in. pot large 
enough size in which to grow any Chrysanthemum, 
to get it well filled with roots and the wood well 
ripened by housing time, generally the end of 
September. Ten-inch or larger pots could be used 
when two or more plants are to be placed in the pot. 
Too large pots have a great tendency to become 
acid, being often over watered, whereas smaller pots 
get sooner filled with roots andean take more liquid 
feeding, which adds in most varieties to the sub¬ 
stance of the flowers, as my little experience teaches 
me, that in the north of Scotland, the above size 
(8 in ) is a very suitable pot for to flower either free 
flowering or disbudded Chrysanthemums. Perhaps 
in the south of England where the watering has to 
be gone over three or four times a day a little larger 
pot might be preferable. The watering is the 
principal point in Chrysanthemum growing, but a 
" boss " of mine once said to me watering the 'mums 
is a fine job for the laddie.— Wullie. 
-- 
GYPSOPHILA ELEGANS. 
This hardy annual is well worth growing in pots for 
greenhouse and conservatory decoration. The last 
few weeks, its white feathery flowers, mixed with 
Calceolarias and Gloxioias, have made a bright dis¬ 
play in the conservatory. It is also very useful for 
cutting to use with other flower-, and for bouquet 
making. Seed can be sown in a pan in February 
and March, and when large enough pricked i ato 48’s 
and 32's, placing several seedlings in each pot, and 
staking when large enough. Any ordinary potliog 
compost will suit them. They thrive best in a cold 
frame, after they have been hardened off. Schizan- 
thus is another pretty and useful annual for conser¬ 
vatory work, and can also be sown the same time as 
Gysophila, and treated in a similar way, them 
various coloured flowers making a pleasing group.— 
J. Botley. 
- ■ « - - 
CAMPANULA MEDIUM (CANTERBURY 
BELLS). 
Of all the plants grown for the house and conser¬ 
vatory, none more fully repay for the trouble taken 
with them than a good batch of Canterbury Bells. 
Seed should be sown now (tf not previously done) in 
shallow boxes, using equal parts loam and leaf mould 
with a little sand added. Place them in a cool 
frame, shade from bright sunshine till the seedlings 
appear, when they should be gradually exposed and 
removed to the open air. As soon as they can be 
handled, box them off 3 in. apart, and grow there 
until large enough to plant outdoors. Plant them 
15 in. apart each way. They do best in a half shady 
position, but if well watered in hot weather they 
will succeed anywhere. In November lift and pot 
them.in good rich soil, using 6-in. and 8-in. pots, 
which will be large enough to flower them in. Place 
the plants in a cool frame or Peach house, and do 
not over water them. When the pots fill with roots, 
manure water should be frequently applied. They 
will not require much staking; their drooping habit 
is most effective. Keep them in a sunny position in 
the early spring months ; a charming display will 
be obtained in April and May.— Walter Hopkins, 
Leighton Gardens, Westbury, Wilts. 
--J-- 
THE ARUM LILY. 
To grow the Arum Lily for blooming early, a start 
ought to be very soon made. For plants to be in 
bloom in early autumn, of course they ought to have 
been prepared for it some time previously by having 
a period of drying off or resting for a month or six 
weeks. When properly gone to rest, shake them 
out, break all side bulblets off, if blooms for quality 
are desired. If for quantity, then only shake them 
out and repot in the same size, which would be, I 
presume, 8 in. upwards, using a mixture of three 
parts loam, one part well-rotted cow manure, one- 
half part of road grit and a good shake of Clay’s 
manure over the whole, well mixing it. Crock the 
pots well and repot the bulbs fairly firm and deep. 
Well settle in with a fine-rosed can ; stand partially 
in the shade till well rooted, and water when dry in 
the usual way. Syringe morning and night in hot, 
dry weather. Give manure water when the pots are 
full of roots. House the plants the first week in 
September, and give them ordinary greenhouse 
treatment, when they ought to begin throwing up 
their spathes soon after they are housed, if well 
cared for, and continue throwing up their spathes 
more or less all the winter, especially if well looked 
after as regards copious supplies of liquid manure, 
never using the same twice running.— J. Harwood. 
KALANCHOE FLAMMEA. 
This unique and stately little plant is truly worthy 
of cultivation. It is an entirely new species of the 
Kalanchoe, being only recently introduced from 
Somaliland, in East Africa, and flowered for the first 
time in 1897. The flowers are deep orange in colour 
and are produced in small trusses on a conspicuous 
stem thickly covered at the base with stout, leathery 
obovate leaves about 2J in. in length and ij in. in 
width. The plant grows about 18 in. high and en¬ 
joys a cool, airy greenhouse temperature with a light 
position. Heat draws the colour out of the bloom. 
Propagation can be effected in three different ways, 
namely, by seeds, side growths and leaves. To 
effect the latter, procure a mature leaf with a small 
piece of stem attached and place it in a small pan of 
silver sand and leave a small portion of the tip out 
of the sand ; place it in heat ranging between 70° 
and 75 0 , and keep well shaded. The greenhouse is 
not gifted with many orange coloured flowers, and 
this species of the Kalanchoe will prove a useful plant, 
as the bloom will last about three months in a grow¬ 
ing state and fully one month as cut flowers. It is 
by far the best Kalanchoe in cul nation.— G. W. 
Dickson, 107, Belsize Road, W. Hampstead. 
FORCING OF GREEN PEAS. 
In places where we are expected to give a dish of 
any vegetable out of season I can strongly recom¬ 
mend the “ green Peas.” No doubt they are bad to 
grow when forcing, yet, with strict attention and 
careful watching, they can be grown as good if not 
better in flavour than our early Peas outside. 
Instead of sowing in January or February as gener¬ 
ally is the case, sow in the end of October in 4^-in. 
pots, well drained and filled with rather a light soil, 
place in a hot frame or pit until the young seedlings 
are about 3 in high, then harden off and winter in 
low frames where a little heat can be turned on at 
night or in cold weather. In February repot into 
8-in pots in a compost of turf and rotten cow dung, 
place on hanging shelves in a temperature of from 
55 0 to 60", rising a little with sun heat during the 
day. Great care must be taken in watering as they 
are very liable to damp at the neck if getting too 
much water. Once they are in flower and set feed 
slowly with manure water, and by the end of March 
or beginning of April you can surprise your employer 
with a dish of green Peas. The varieties we forced 
here this year were Chelsea Gem and English 
Wonder, which did wonderfully well, English 
Wonder being a little later in bearing.— T. S. Dick, 
Casllemilk Gardens, Lockerbie. 
HERBACEOUS CALCEOLARIAS. 
By many people the herbaceous Calceolaria is 
thought to be difficult of culture, and so is often dis¬ 
carded for other flowers. This is a fallacy, for 
with reasonable care and attention, very few florists’ 
flowers are more easily grown. Seeds should now 
be sown. The pans should be half full of crocks 
broken up; over these place some rough soil and 
then fill up to the surface with fine soil. A light, 
rich, sandy soil is preferable. Sow thinly as the 
seed is very minute. After sowing cover with a 
slight sprinkling of silver sand, and cover each pan 
with a piece of glass, placing the pans on a shelf in 
a shady part of the greenhouse or frame. As soon 
as the plants appear above the soil a little air should 
be given to encourage the young plants to grow as 
strong as possible. As soon as large enough prick 
off thinly into well drained pots of fine soil. As 
soon as any of them are big enough, pot singly into 
small pots; place in a cold frame, shade from the 
sun, but give plenty of air, and shift into larger pots 
as required. Do not pot the plants between 
November and February, as in mid-winter no roots 
are made. The best place in the winter for the 
plants is a heated frame, in case of frosts, or damp 
weather; the latter is their great enemy. The 
plants should be smoked frequently, as upon their 
cleanliness success depends.— T. W. Dollery, The 
Gardens, Whitburn, Sunderland. 
PLANTS FOR SHALLOW GRAVELLY 
SOIL. 
The owners of gardens standing high and dry, with 
shallow, hungry soils, overlying gravel beds, are 
much exercised in properly furnishing them, and not 
a few give up in disgust, with a despairing grumble 
that it is a waste of time and money, resulting only 
in vexation and disappointment, to attempt to grow 
anything thereon. As one who has suffered, I tender 
my sympathy to such, but at the same time beg of 
them to have another try, with a determination to 
succeed, for I have discovered there is a host of 
things which do succeed and some few which actu¬ 
ally revel in such a soil. Side by side with the 
choice of suitable plants, however, let there be a 
steady effort to improve the staple and thus make 
it the better sustainer of those things which struggle 
along and a fitter receptacle for a wider range of 
subjects. The best aids to such improvement I have 
found to be deep digging, or what is known as bastard 
trenching, the incorporation of clay or heavy loam, 
and the application of heavy manures, such as cow 
or pig-dung, in preference to horse-dung or strawy 
litter. The present time affords an excellent oppor¬ 
tunity for taking note of what best withstands 
drought, and any plants which have shown no signs 
of distress in ordinary light soils may fairly be given 
a trial. I give below some of the principal things 
which have succeeded with me. Many merit 
special mention of their beauty and value, but, with 
the conditions of the “ prize ” before me, it is necessary 
to place a limit on words, and I must th-refore con¬ 
tent myself with a mere list, and that a by no means 
complete one. 
Trees and Shrubs. —Silver Birch, Austrian Pine, 
Deodara, several Barberries, particularly B. Aqui- 
folium, B. Darwinii, B. stenophylla, and the orna¬ 
mental leaved B. Thunbergii or sineDsis, as it is 
sometimes catalogued; Thorns, single and double¬ 
flowering ; Cotoneasters, Leycesteria, in its deep 
green leaves and hollow stems, it has the appear¬ 
ance of an aquatic, but does remarkably well on an 
excessively dry border when once established ; Roses, 
Penzance hybrid Sweet Briers, Japanese rugosa, 
and shrubby Veronicas. 
Plants. — Border Chrysanthemums, Pampas 
Grass, Yuccas, German Flag Irises, Pinks, Alstroe- 
merias, Lilium candidum, Snapdragon, Canterbury 
Bells, when pat out in the autumn ; Godet'as, Sweet 
Peas, and other annuals, when sown in the autumn. 
— C. W. Smith, Devonia, Kidmore Road, Caversliam, 
Oxon 
There are 51,000 acres devoted to the culture of 
Hops in the United Kingdom. 
