750 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
July 20, 1901. 
the sparrow fosteriDg the young cuckoo. It soon 
monopolises more space than it should do, and what 
:s more, absolutely refuses to quit, even when 
! erved with an eviction notice in the form of a strong 
spade manipulated with grim determination, and 
often to the accompaniment of such language as 
does not give the air in that particular district the 
odour of sanctity. When once it has occupied the 
ground the least little piece of root left in the soil is 
sufficient to grow quickly into a large plant again. 
The most out-of-the-way rubbish corner is the best 
place for the store of this article, provided the soil 
is deep and good, for it will grow anywhere. To 
further emphasise what I have said concerning it, I 
may draw attention to the fact that although it is a 
most profuse flowerer it is only in exceptionally rare 
instances that it produces seeds, as it has relied so 
long on vegetative propagation that the power of 
seed bearing has become obsolete.— R. C. 
MAIN CROP CELERY. 
Referring to T.S.D.’s article, June 29th, on 
“ Main Crop or late Celery," I agree with him that 
Celery to be used during April or beginning of May, 
should not be heavily manured, and it is soon enough 
to plant it for that purpose in the last week of July. 
Make a trench 15 in. wide and 20 in. or so deep, 
putting 3 in. of old manure in the bottom and 
the same of soil over it to plant in, and do not earth 
it up until the beginning of November (six weeks 
will-blanch it), choosing a dry day to do it. Pack 
the earth rather firmly round it as worms work into 
the heart of the plants more readily if the earth is 
too loose about them. I prefer leaf mould or saw¬ 
dust for this batch if it can be got easily. When 
Celery is a favourite vegetable with one’s employer, 
it is better to have three bitches, one to plant out in 
the beginning of May, heavily manured, that can be 
used during September and October, main crop six 
weeks later, and a late batch as above referred to. 
When wanted simply for flavouring, plant a few 
dozen in any odd corner on the surface; it stands 
the frost quite well, and the side leaves can be 
utilised until the young Celery is large enough, and 
it saves the fine blanched heads.— Champfleurie. 
-- 
MAKING OF ASPHALT WALKS. 
Ix is not very often we see our garden walks made 
of this artificial preparation, but I think where new 
gardens are getting made aad expense not spoken of 
asphalt walks would be a great improvement, being 
nicer to walk on, and much easier on poor " Peter " 
who has all the wheeling to do. They are always 
dry, firm, and lasting if the material is properly 
made and put down. Take two parts dry lime 
rubbish, with oce part each of ccal ashes and sand, 
which must be finely sifted. These should all be in 
a dry state, and thoroughly mixed together. Leavea 
hole in the centre of the beap, and into this pour 
boiling coal tar. Mix well by turning the heap, and 
when sufficient tar has been added to make it like stiff 
mortar it is ready for use. When making these 
walks it is necessary that there should be a firm 
foundation and nothing is better than a layer of fine 
gravel rolled down firm and level, and finished off 
with the asphalt 2 in. or 3 in. thick. While putting 
the asphalt down, a little more should be put on the 
centre of your walks as a nice round on them helps 
to throw the rain off to the sides. A coating of 
coarse sand should be sprinkled on the surface, 
and when cold pass a roller over it. — T. S. Dick, 
CaslUmilk Gardens, Lockerbie, N.B. 
- — ■» - 
POINSETTIAS. 
The Poinsettia is unequalled for giving a bright, 
cheerful appearance to a stove during the winter 
months. Many gardeners make a mistake in pro¬ 
pagating these plants too early. The best plan to 
follow is to place the old plants in a frame about the 
last week in May. They should be kept close and 
syringed twice a day till they show signs of breaking. 
Water and air should then bs given and this method 
will give nice short jointed cuttings about the middle 
of July. When the cuttings are 4 in. or 5 in. long, 
cut them with a heel attached, dip the cutting in 
sand and pot in light sandy soil. The cuttings 
should then be placed in a good bottom heat for a 
few days. When rooted the soil should be composed 
of good turfy loam, three-quarters, leaf soil, quarter, 
and plenty of sharp sand to keep it thoroughly open. 
A little dried cow manure is an excellent thing to 
mix in if procurable. Keep the plants close to the 
glass, as short stocky plants are much more desir¬ 
able. When established give more air and they may 
be gradually removed to a cold frame whilst the 
nights are warm. As the cold evenings approach 
the plants should have a temperature of 50° to 55 0 . 
A succession may be obtained by placing a batch in 
a warmer house as required. The bracts last longer 
in a temperature of 55 0 than if kept too warm.—2b 
J. Mercer, Castle Gardens, Sherborne, Dorset. 
-—-— 
CINERARIA STELLATA. 
Those who have not yet given this a trial should at 
once obtain and sow seed, giving precisely the same 
treatment as accorded the ordinary florist’s form. 
It is the result of a cross between the ordinary 
greenhouse Cineraria and C. cruenta, and is to its 
first-named parent what Primula stellata is to the 
ordinary Primulas. The break from the hybridist's 
general aim for size and quality of blossom and com¬ 
pactness of habit gives a most welcome relief, and 
might well be followed with other families. Com¬ 
pared with the ordinary kind the plant is taller, also 
of looser and more spreading growth, and instead of 
being surmounted with a hugh head of blossom, its 
flowers are gracefully disposed in loose panicles on 
long stems. It is highly decorative, whether for 
conservatory or table adornment, and possesses a 
distinct advantage in furnishing beautiful and useful 
flowers for cutting. The individual flowers are 
relatively small, and in general appearance remind 
one forcibly of the best among the Michaelmas 
Daisies. The colours are not at present quite so 
varied as in the older form, but they embrace many 
charmingly tender shades, between pale lilac and 
deep purple-blue, and these will no doubt soon be 
added to. 
As time presses, I may perhaps be excused for 
stating that should any difficulty be experienced in 
procuring seed, it is offered for sale by Messrs. 
Sutton & Sons, of Reading, by whom, I believe, the 
species was introduced some few years back.— C. W. 
Smith, " Devonia ,” Kidmore Road, Caversliam, Oxon. 
• 1 - — 
ROGIERA GRATISSIMA. 
This genus must not be confounded with the genus 
Rogeria; it belongs to the order Rubiaceae, and is 
now included under Rondeletia. Rogiera gratissimi, 
is a native of Las Caipas, and does very well in an 
intermediate house. It should be potted in a com¬ 
post consisting of equal parts of peat, leaf mould, 
loam, and sand, and should be watered moderately. 
I remember seeing it some six years ago, whilst stay¬ 
ing in Yorkshire,planted out in a corridor,and trained 
to some diamond wire trellising, and it seemed to be 
thriving well. The leaves are opposite, coriaceous 
and deep green; the flowers are produced in large 
terminal corymbs, similar to an Ixora, rosy-pink ia 
colour, and the flowers are very fragrant, indeed. 
In fact, it is almost a perpetual bloomer. One does 
not often come across it now, but it is well worth 
growing, and in my opinion the flowers are equally 
as pretty as those ol the Ixora. It is propagated by 
means of cuttings taken off in the spring.— T. W. 
Dollery, The Gardens, Whitburn, Sunderland. 
-- 
HYDRANGEA. 
This pretty artificial-looking deciduous shrub is a 
member of the natural order of Saxifragaceae and the 
sub-order of Hydrangeae ; it is invaluable for con¬ 
servatory decoration owing to the long duration of 
the blooms, which are produced in a globe-like form 
at the apex of the plant. The majority of the 
flowers that are seen are neuter, that is to say, 
they do not possess the fertilising properties, such 
as pistil and stamens. The fertile blooms are gener¬ 
ally hidden from view by the neuter ones. The 
colours of the flowers vary according to the nature 
of the soil. The chief homes of the Hydrangea are 
Japan, the mountains of India, and South America. 
There are no natives of Great Britain. Take 
cuttiDgs in the autumn and keep them in a cold 
frame during the winter and use heat in the early 
spring. When the flower buds are developing, they 
should be well fed. When a good start is made, 
harden them off for the conservatory. Prune them 
rather hard and plunge them under ashes in the 
second winter, and when the growing season comes 
round again feed them well and they will make a 
handsome display. The best known species is 
Hortensia, sometimes called Hortensis. Another 
large species is paniculata grandiflora, which has 
large veined ovate leaves and bulky flower heads; it 
is cream-coloured, and turns a delicate pink when 
dying off. It is a handsome plant for the conserva¬ 
tory.—G. W. Dickson, W. Hampstead, N.W. 
SOME WAYSIDE PICTURES. 
Those who reside in country districts often see 
many floral treasures as they pass cottages, farm¬ 
houses and other gardens. 
Last spring I had an illustration of this in several 
instances (two especially). In a farmhouse garden 
near Chard Junction there is growing on the walls a 
large mass of Wistaria, in the best of health, giving 
very large trusses of flowers. Beside it was a glori¬ 
ous display of Clematis montana, with a good-sized 
plant of Gloire de Dijon Rose hard by. These 
blended fine, and as the wall space covered with 
them was large, and being in full bloom at one time, 
the effect is not easy to realize. At the front, and 
no doubt where the roots of these are, is a small 
garden, and at this time it was exceedingly gay 
with late Tulips, &c. 
Anoiher instance worth recording I saw at a 
vicarage in a village close to where I reside. Here 
were growing, side by side, large plants of Yellow 
Banksian Rose and Wistaria, and for a long time 
these were in bloom together; and as the position 
was facing west and on a high position, with the 
eaves of the house overhanging protecting them, so 
fine was the| sight that it could be seen a long dis¬ 
tance. I observe this Rose blooms abundantly 
every year in this position, and also on another wall 
not far distant. I find these receive very little 
pruning, and are growing very slowly, while in our 
own garden they bloom but sparsely. Our position 
is low and damp and the growth does not ripen.— 
J. C., Chard. 
Kitctien Garden Calendar. 
During the past spell of hot weather there has been 
quite a raid on the salad material, and those who 
have not had a large supply have doubtless been 
wishing that they had. 
Endives. —Salads are not so popular in winter as 
they are now, but they are, even then, often in 
demand. Those who do not wish to be behind the 
times should sow a good batch of Endive now for 
use during late autumn and early winter if they have 
not already done so, and take care that the seed¬ 
lings are well watered, or it will be labour in vain to 
try and obtain a fair bed. 
Radishes. — These should still be sown on well 
prepared ground, especially the Black Spanish 
Radish for salad use. 
Turnips.—A sowing of these should be made to 
make a supply for winter. If the ground is very 
dry they will require frequent waterings. The 
yellow varieties are the best to sow at this time of 
the year. 
Broccoli, &c. —The weather has been much 
against those plants which have been recently 
planted, especially those which have been trans¬ 
planted carelessly, as they have had their fibrous 
roots mutilated, and have to make some new ones 
before they can start away. They will put up with 
a large amount of knocking about without actually 
dying, but they are just as grateful for gentle, care¬ 
ful treatment as the more tender plants. If the roots 
are carefully puddled in when planting them, they 
start away much better. 
Vegetable Marrows.— It is time now that much 
of the surplus growth was checked and the energy 
of the plants directed to fruit formation, a thing they 
seem very apt to forget if left alone and allowed to 
ramble on without any restraining hand to direct 
their energies. Everyone knows that they are gross 
feeders, and a very common position for them is on 
the top of an old dunghill, but the fact that they 
also require abundance of water must not be over¬ 
looked, or the fruits will drop off instead of swelling. 
Carrots. —Small Carrots for the table are often 
much in demand towards the end of the season, 
