January 10, 1903. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
21 
Striking .... 
Chrysanthemum Cuttings. 
There is probably no better time for taking Chrysanthemum 
cuttings than the two weeks before and after Christmas. In 
fact, we have often put in a batch of cuttings on Christmas Cay, 
and always seem to think they do the best of any. Cuttings 
put in just as the days begin to brighten seem to strike and 
start off healthy and strong; whereas, if they are inserted in 
December, very often the whole condition of the atmosphere 
is totally against anything growing, and, consequently, the 
cuttings, instead of rooting and making a start, only stand 
still until the soil in which they are potted gets stagnant and 
sour. 
In taking cuttings, I would advise, where possible, to select 
those which are fairly strong (not too stout and sappy) ; and, 
although there is always the temptation to put in cuttings 
which have been cut off just underground, and which will strike 
more easily, yet we always prefer to take ours above the soil, 
because, although they may take longer to strike, they 
eventually emit roots all round the cutting, double and treble 
the number that cuttings with a hard base, cut from close 
to the stem or under the soil, produce. 
These cuttings can be put in singly in pots of small size, 
putting the cutting in the centre of the pot; but I prefer to 
put two in a pot, one on each side. Be sure to have the pots 
washed clean, unless they are neAV, and use potting mould 
composed of almost half good coarse white sand. A good 
sand is half the battle in propagating. The other ingredients 
should consist of equal parts of turfy loam and leaf mould, run 
through a fairly fine-mesh sieve. In potting, put one piece of 
crock over the hole, and then a pinch of coarse fibre, such as 
is left in the sieve after sifting the potting stuff mentioned 
above, after which fill the pot quite full, and press it down to 
barely L in. below the rim. This should be just hard enough. 
Then sprinkle a good layer of sand on the top, and, with a 
lead pencil or stick, make a hole and insert the cutting. Press 
the soil somewhat firmly round it, and, having put both in, 
give the pot a slight tap sideways, which will, if rightly done, 
cause the soil to level itself evenly over the top. 
The cuttings should then be placed in shallow boxes, with 
glass over the top to keep them air-tight. All kinds of im¬ 
promptu arrangements can be commandered for this purpose, 
and, after giving the cuttings a good watering with a very fine 
rose on the can, they are fairly on the way for striking. Very 
little water will be needed for some days, and although it is 
frequently said that they should not droop at all, ten to- one 
they will do so, and I, of the two, prefer them to flag a little. 
They will loot as quick or more quickly, and are less liable to 
rot. On no account let them get too- wet; they will be more 
likely to go wrong from this cause than from erring on the 
dry side. 
As to temperature, I must admit that we cannot get ours 
as hardy as we hear of some being, and find a little heat in the 
greenhouse necessaiy, not exceeding 50deg. at night. Pos¬ 
sibly they would strike in time in cold frames, etc., but, where 
possible, put them in a temperature never lower than 40deg., 
and as near 50deg. as possible. The glass on the boxes should 
be taken off daily, to let the cuttings dry, but do not leave it 
off long enough to- cause them to droop. 
About a month will be the time taken to strike, although a 
few may do so even a week under this, and, as soon as they 
show signs of growth in the hearts, they can be gradually 
hardened to stand the air of the house without the aid of the 
glass over the box. When well rooted, and before they get 
their roots entangled one amongst the other, pot them into 
31 in. pots. In knocking the plants out of the cutting-pot and 
parting them, simply pull the ball of soil in half, and do not 
be over careful to prevent a little of it falling off the roots. 
This old soil is sour, and, although the plants want reasonable 
care to ensure not throwing too severe a check on them, yet 
they root very quickly into the fresh, sweet soil, and then grow 
rapidly. 
Stand them on the stands or shelves near the glass, and 
keep them moderately well watered. In this stage, again take 
great care not to let a plant become saturated, but to water 
each plant according to its individual wants. The soil for 
the first potting—that is, into 3J in. pots—should be composed 
of three-parts turfy loam, two of leaf mould, and one of horse- 
droppings, run through a sieve to get it tine. To this add a 
good sprinkling of coarse sand, not quite another part in 
quantity, or, if possible, divide the latter between sand and old 
mortar, knocked up and sifted. ’Mums seem to be particularly 
fond of old mortar, if it is igood—that is, was good when made 
—and whether it is used in the soil or the pots crocked with 
it, it always pays for using it, as it always seems to keep fresh 
and sweet. It will be advisable to have several different boxes 
for the propagating, so that one can be used for the forward 
ones, and in different grades to suit the periods of striking. 
Probably no other flower requires the variety of different 
treatments as the ’Mum, very few sorts having the same type 
of growth, so that all growers of these favourites must set 
out from the start to treat each plant according to its own 
particular fads and fancies, and not go in for growing them as 
a batch of plants all on one system. M. 
Antirrhinum Majus Peloria. 
For many years Linaria vulgaris Peloria has been a valued 
garden plant, but it has now been matched by Antirrhinum 
majus Peloria, belonging to the same family, and closely allied. 
The normally irregular flower has become regular by the in¬ 
crease of the irregularities, paradoxical as that may seem. In 
the Linaria just named the solitary spur and other concomitant 
structures which made the normal flower irregular have been 
extended to all the parts of the floAver, so that there are five 
spurs. There is no spur in Antirrhinum, the flower being what 
is termed personate, the base of the tube on one side being 
gibbous or inflated, while the lower lip forms a raised and 
inflated palate, which closes the orifice of the flower. In the 
new variety the tube of the- flower is inflated all round the base 
and narrows upwards, being conical, but it is then surmounted 
with five palates, each having a structure similar to the-lower 
lip of the normal flower, the whole bloom resembling a highly 
ornamented Hyacinth glass. 
Hitherto peloric flowers have only occurred singly on flower 
spikes of Antirrhinum, but four years ago Mr. Charles Lorenz, 
F.R.H.S., Erfurt, Germany, found this novelty amongst a sow¬ 
ing of the very dark variety named Black Prince, and has so 
far succeeded in fixing the peloric form that 60 per cent, come 
true to name from seed. Mr. Lorenz has now put it into com¬ 
merce. Messrs. Dobbie & Co-., Rothesay, also- offer it amongst 
their novelties. 
Mr. Lorenz sent flowers of it to several professors of botany, 
all of whom thought it highly interesting to botanists and 
amateurs. Professor Hugo de Vries, of the Royal Botanic 
Gardens, Amsterdam, warmly recommended the introduction 
of the novelty, and named it Antirrhinum majus Peloria. 
The colours hitherto- represented in this novelty are dark 
brownish-purple, and brownish-purple with a white tube. Con¬ 
sidering that the novelty may be raised from seeds, there- is 
ample hope that it may yet be developed through all the gamut 
of colours already existing in the species. This being the 
case, we shall soon have a whole garden race of peloric forms. 
Mr. Lorenz thinks it one of the most interesting floral novelties 
of the season, and I share in that opinion, adding botanical 
novel-ties as well. J. F, 
