70 
THE GARDENING WORLD . 
January 24, 1903. 
for the first time in 1898. It-is a strong growing subject, and 
may be flowered at any height from 9 in. to 4 ft. The leaves 
are pale green, ovate, glandular, sticky, and aromatic. The 
flowers are a pretty shade of blue, and are borne in upright, 
thyrsoid inflorescences, from 6 in. to 9 in. long, the flowering 
period extending from early in December until the end of 
February. The second species, C. Mahoni, was named about 
two years ago; it is of considerably weaker growth than the 
foregoing, and when fully grown is from 1 ft. to 11 ft. in 
height. The flowers of this are also in terminal heads, the 
inflorescences being looser and the flowers not so densely 
packed together as in the other species. In this case the 
colour is purple. 
The cultivation of these plants is similar to that given to 
greenhouse Salvias ; for although all are perennial, they are 
better grown from cuttings annually. The cuttings should be 
rooted about the end of February, and the young plants started 
in an intermediate temperature. The points of the shoots 
should be removed several times to induce a bushy habit; and 
repotting should be attended to as often as necessary. A 
mixture of two parts good loam, one part leaf mould, one part, 
well-rotted manure, and one part sand makes a suitable com¬ 
post. 
Throughout summer the plants may be stood outside, and 
fed in a similar maimer to Salvias or Chrysanthemums. Nice 
little plants of C. thyraoideus, suitable for table decoration, can 
be obtained by rooting the points of the shoots of strong 
plants in September, and keeping them in small pots ; they 
will then flower in the usual way if left unstopped. 
W. D. 
Melon Culture. 
The culture of Melons is not difficult or expensive if various 
details in their management are clearly understood. The chief 
difficulty with amateurs is that they have not the command of 
enough artificial heat in the early spiing to enable them to get 
two crops out of one pit in a season, but much can be done in 
getting rid 1 of this difficulty by growing the plants on a hotbed. 
To maintain a regular heat during the period of the plant’s 
growth, make the bed in the usual way with long dung and 
leaves to the depth of 2 ft. to 3 ft. Cover the bed with a layer 
of sods, grassy side downwards, and over this place a layer of 
2 in. or so of good friable loam, Make mounds in the centre 
of the bed about 3 ft. apart, and make them very firm by 
ramming with a brick or blunt rammer. Then allow the soil 
to remain until thoroughly warmed through. 
The young plants, having been previously prepared in pots, 
and not allowed to starve or become infested with insects, may 
then be planted, one in each mound, and the spil pressed firmly 
round the roots. Keep the -collar of the plant level with the 
surface of the mound, and stake each plant to prevent it getting 
broken. Maintain a m-oist atmosphere, and regulate airing and 
watering according to the state of the weather. All water used 
should be of the same temperature as that of the house. 
During the time of setting the fruits maintain a drier atmo¬ 
sphere than usual, and withhold water from the roots, but not 
tj such an extent -as to cause the plants to flag. After the fruits 
are set top-dress the mounds with good turfy loam, and give a 
thorough watering with weak liquid manure, increasing the 
strength of the manure water as the plants grow stronger. 
Pinch off all superfluous growths with the finger and thumb. 
Detain only such fruits as are desired for the crop. Endeavour 
to have them evenly balanced, so that the plant can afford equal 
nourishment to each fruit. They will, therefore, be about the 
same size when developed. Three frtiits will be enough for 
the plant to bring to maturity. 
Carefulness in watering cannot be too strictly observed. A 
good method is to let the water through a fine rose only at the 
same rate that it is able to penetrate the soil. Seed sown in 
the first week of February will not at the time of ripening be 
a month behind seed sown in the first week of January. Only 
a slight advantage is gained if the weather is fine. For early 
forcing it is important to choose a reliable, free-setting variety. 
For that purpose I regard Hero of Lockinge as one of the best. 
It grows to perfection in a shorter period than many other 
varieties. J. C. G. 
Winter Flowers. 
Many of us are interested in the large bunches of Acacias that 
annually make their appearance in our florists’ windows during 
the autumn months. Some information concerning their source 
of origin and the method of preparing them appeared in the 
“ Revue de l’Horticulture Beige ” for November, the following 
being the information supplied : — 
In the first rank of flowers in tire South of France during the 
winter must be placed that Acacia which people call Mimosa, just 
as they are wont to give to the Robinias or False Acacias the name 
of Acacia. Some of the most choice are Acacia dealbata, with 
branches covered in January with greenish-yellow flowers, and 
Acacia iomgifolia with elongated leaves, and small, compact 
clusters of flowers. The branches of these two species by their 
rigidity bear transport and the dryness of our rooms. Thev are 
used everywhere for the decoration of dining-halls. In the South 
of France the florists have great interest in forcing the Mimosa 
to send flowering branches to the rtorth at the end of November. 
For that purpose they cut the branches about to blossom, and 
carry them into a humid stove for some days, after which they 
remove the branches having the flowers expanded. This stove is 
just a simple case of wood which the florist himself constructs, 
preparing a reservoir at the bottom either of zinc or cement, 
destined to contain the water to be heated. This reservoir is put 
into connection with a tir. boiler filled with water, placed upon a 
furnace of petroleum or gas, analogous to those of the house¬ 
keeper. The case intended to receive the branches of Mimosa has 
a double bottom.; tlv-t is to say, the reservoir has a plate of woo 1 
pierced with holes. Upon the plate are receptacles for vessels 
filled with water, in which the branches are inserted. These latter 
are furnished with a covering inter tied to absorb the excess of 
steam, which would endanger the blackening of the flowers. That 
very primitive apparatus has the merit of being inexpensive, and 
can be set up anywhere. 
Japanese Plums. 
For some years past we have heard a -good deal about Japanese 
Plums. Whether they can be successfully grown ini this country 
is a matter for our cultivators to determine. They have, how¬ 
ever, been grown to some extent in the United States, in 
California, where Luther Burbank, well known as the “ Wizard 
of Horticulture,” has been busily engaged in improving this kind 
of Plum for some years past. These Plums are also grown in 
South Africa, from whence they reach our shores and may be seen 
in the fruiterers’ windows during the summer months. 
Their cultivation is also being encouraged ini Western Australia, 
and the “ Journal of the Department of Agriculture ” for that part 
of Australia gives outline figures of four varieties, and descrip¬ 
tions of a considerable number. It may not be uninteresting to 
our readers to give a few particulars of these new Plums. They 
are improved varieties of Prunus triflora, a native of Burma and 
China. Their most -striking feature is that the nearly globular 
fruit is drawn out to a point at the apex, in a somewhat similar 
manner to those of some varieties of Peach. The trees of this 
species of Plum do not attain a large size on their own -stocks, 
but do better ora the Peach. Late June is the earliest variety of 
Japanese Plum to ripen. The fruit is deep crimson, and con¬ 
siderably lengthened out at the -apex ; the tree also crops very 
heavily. 
The Burbank Plum was imported from Japan. It is a vigorous 
grower, and comes into bearing at an early age. The fruit is 
nearly globular, of a rich cherry-red, slightly mottled with yellow. 
The flesh is deep yello-w, and of peculiar, but agreeable, flavour. 
The tree is very productive. 
The Wickson Plum is a cross between Burbank and Kelsey. 
It- is valuable in Western Australia, where it ripens at a time 
when the glut of Peaches and other Plums is over. The fruit 
varies from cherry-red to claret, while the flesh is amber. The 
Kelsey Plum is so very productive that the branches are liable to 
be borne down by the weight of the fruit. The fruits vary from 
one and a-lialf to two and a-half inches in diameter, and are heart- 
shaped. The colour is mixed yellow and purple; the flesh is 
yellow, firm, clings to the skin, and when fully ripe is of very 
good quality. The tree bears as early as the Peach, and requires 
similar pruning. 
The above four are figured in the journal named. 
