January 31, 1903. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
103 
The Juniors’ Page and Correspondence. 
• 
Early Flowering Hardy Heaths (T. B. J.).—The best of 
all the hardy early-flowering Heaths, in our opinion, is that 
named Erica hybrida, said to be a cross between E. carnea and 
mediterranea. It is the first to come into bloom, when, the 
weather gets sufficiently mild, in spring. Its special features are 
that it grows somewhat taller than E. carnea, and, if anything, 
flowers more freely, while the flowers are much darker in colour ; 
it is therefore very effective, and should be one of the first you 
should acquire if possible. E. carnea and E.c. alba are still in¬ 
dispensable, however, and will prove very serviceable under a 
great variety of conditions. It might be worth your while to 
get E. lusitanica, better known as an E. codonodes, which is an 
early flowering species, an(i very pretty, but somewhat tender. 
You could, however, plant it in the most sheltered position you 
can command. 
Polygonum Growing Too Tall (A. K.).—The plant to 
which you refer was no doubt Polygonum cuspidatum, which 
grows in proportion to the depth and richness of the soil in 
which it is placed, and the amount of space allowed it to de¬ 
velop. We consider it most handsome when grown vigorously. 
It is out of place if planted where it is not allowed space to de¬ 
velop its natural proportions. You can remedy the matter, 
however, by getting P. comp actum, which only grows from one 
to two feet high, even when grown in very favourable condi¬ 
tions. It may be used as a bedding plant even, but although 
in other respects it resembles the taller plant, except in stature, 
we prefer the taller one, and consider it the more ornamental 
when placed under favourable conditions and in a suitable 
situation. It is merely a case of putting the right plant in the 
right place. 
Plants for North Aspect of a Wall (D. M. D.).—Many 
things that delight ini moist soil would succeed admirably on 
the north aspect of a wall, providing they are not too heavily 
shaded by trees or houses in the near vicinity, nor under the drip 
of trees. You will be safe to try the several species of Funkia, 
of which F. Sieboldi and F. subcordata grandiflora are the best. 
Aquilegias or Columbines, Irises of the common flag type, 
Anemone japonica and its varieties, Spiraeas of the herbaceous 
type, Primulas, Lilies and bulbs of various sorts, will all give 
satisfaction under the conditions you mention. Many of the 
Saxifrages would also give full satisfaction when grown under 
such conditions. We nieed only mention S. ligulata, S. crassifolia, 
S. cordifolia, S. umbrosa, and others of that type, all of which 
will grow very satifactorily under deciduous trees, providing 
always the shade is not too dense. 
The New Plan of Arranging Herbaceous Borders (F. Simon). 
—The old svstem of planting: herbaceous borders was to arrange 
the plants in lines of equal height; that is, the plants in the back 
row were intended to be the tallest, while those in the front of 
them were arranged so as to form an evenly sloping bank from 
back to front. Much finer effects are now obtained by planting 
them in masses of irregular form, here rising into stately 
mounds, and there receding into hays, the undulations and 
variations in height being secured by the use of plants of different 
heights. This is considered much more effective than the old 
formal arrangement; but you must have recourse to various 
schemes in order to keep up a regular succession of bloom. If 
not strictly confined to hardy herbaceous perennials, you could 
introduce bulbs in spring, sowing annuals about or amongst 
them, to take the place of the bulbs when the latter die down in 
summer. You might also have in the reserve garden certain 
plants coming along to take the place of early flowering bulbs 
or annuals, as the case may bo. 
Forcing Bleeding Heart in Pots (T Davies).—This her¬ 
baceous plant agrees very well with forcing or gently stimulating 
in a warm greenhouse to get it into bloom. Your- object- should 
be to grow it slowly in a temperature never exceeding 55 degrees, 
because under such treatment the flowers will he of better tex¬ 
ture and more durable when fully expanded. We would impress 
upon you to give the plants ample space when making their 
growth, otherwise the foliage cannot either be good or durable, 
and a well-foliaged plant in our opinion is half the battle. In 
the matter of compost you may use loam, leaf mould and sand. 
The plant is not fastidious, providing the drainage is good and 
the compost open. When the plant is in full growth you may 
give it weak liquid manure about twice a week, which will 
stimulate growth considerably. 
Plants for Cold Rooms (A. F. T.).—There are several 
plants so nearly hardy that they may be grown for indefinite 
periods in dwelling-houses, providing you water them carefully, 
never allowing them to become dust dry, nor on the other hand 
saturating them with water until the soil becomes sour. In un¬ 
heated houses during winter very little water is necessary, but 
when actually required it must be given. For instance, when 
water is required you must give sufficient to moisten the whole 
ball of soil. Tlie plants we should mention are Aspidistras, 
Araucaria excelsa or Norfolk Island Pine, Dracaena australis, 
D. A. Doucetti, D. rubra, D. Dannelli, D. congesta,D. Eeckhautei, 
and Ficus elastica. All these, if properly cared for in the way 
we mention, may be kept for an indefinite period in dwelling- 
houses, making sufficient annual growth to keep them furnished 
with young leaves from year to year. During periods of frost 
you ought, of course, to remove the plants from the window or 
vicinity of the glass, and cover them up with newspapers or 
other dry material; but on the departure of the frost the nlant 
must be placed close to the glass at once, and kept there at all 
tmes of the year, so that the leaves may have as fair a share of 
light as possible under the conditions. 
Transplanting a Holly (H.A.L.).—April or the beginning of 
May is usually considered the best time to transplant Hollies. 
They are usually troublesome subjects, and many planters make 
a mistake when they endeavour to transplant them in the 
autumn, or even in March, because the trees are subjected to 
drying breezes of wind, which rob the stems and leaves of 
moisture at a greater rate than the mutilated roots can supply 
The object of planting at the period above stated is that the 
roots are on the move, and growth is just about to commence, 
so that if the roots are kept watered and the leaves syringed 
occasionally, the tree commences to grow directly, and soon 
becomes re-established. Providing the weather is moist when 
the transplanting is done, it will save a deal of labour in the 
matter of watering, and success will even be more certain. 
Watercress Beds in Winter (H. Webb).—In the early part of 
winter the beds may be kept fairly dry with impunity, but there 
is no necessity really for keeping Watercress beds dry at any 
period. The plants grow naturally on some occasions on the 
banks of streams and rivers, where they get only a moderate 
amount of moisture, but where they occur in small running 
streams and springs there they make a liberal amount of vigorous 
growth. By keeping a gentle stream of water running through 
the bed the plants will seldom get frozen, and on the other hand 
will come into growth earlier, and thus furnish you with a 
supply of shoots at a much earlier period than if the bed was 
allowed to get dry. 
Auriculas in Winter (Primula).—In most cases Auriculas are 
perfectly hardy in any part of this country, and will grow out of 
doors even better in the north than in the south. It is the warm, 
dry weather in summer that is more detrimental to them than 
in winter. Show varieties are better kept in glass frames, 
because you can protect them from rain and hail, which would 
destroy the meal or paste on the flowers, and thereby detract 
from their appearance. Even in winter a covering of mats for 
the frames will prove sufficient protection. Should the leaves 
and roots get frozen all you need do is to leave the mats on the 
frames for some time after the frost has gone. The object of 
this is to prevent any rapid thawing of the soil and breaking 
of the pots. The shade produced by mats will also prevent 
injury from bright sunshine on the leaves while they are in a 
frozen state. 
Market for Flowers and. Bush Fruits (W. J. H.).— Your prin¬ 
cipal object in establishing a business in a new locality should 
be to encourage a local trade. This may be accomplished 
gradually, and as the neighbourhood becomes populated yon 
should study the requirements of the district and make an 
endeavour to supply them. By this means you can accomplish 
much. It may he slowly in the beginning, but by constant 
obsex-vation as to the requirements and making an effort to meet 
those wants, your business may be made to grow with the exten¬ 
sion of the street-making. In all local businesses the life of 
them lies largely in keeping the garden or nursery tidy, and 
encouraging the public to come into your place by its neat and 
attractive appearance. All this would mean that you have some¬ 
thing worthy of their attention, and if well served they will come 
again. 
