109 
January 31, 1903. THE GARDENING WORLD. 
* Questions and Answers. * 
Grape Vines Out of Order (Scottie). 
We quite agree with you that the rods and spurs of the 
Vines are much too close together. We hare seen Vines grown 
in a similar manner, but in no case could they be said to- pro¬ 
duce either satisfactory bunches or berries. Those who are 
noted for the cultivation of Grapes always give plenty of room 
for foliage, branches and berries. Your Vines, having been 
neglected, probably for many years, will have to be dealt with 
cautiously and carefully. Instead of 6 in., we should have 
the spurs at least twice as far apart, by the removal of eveiy 
other spur. If your employer would give his consent to- it, 
we should also have some of the rods removed, and the re¬ 
mainder distributed over the space. Then by careful manipula¬ 
tion next summer you can thin out the bunches, so as not to 
leave more than the Vines can properly cany without dis¬ 
tressing them. The question of foliage is of the utmost im¬ 
portance, and not a leaf more should be grown upon the Vines 
than can be properly accommodated and fully exposed to the 
light. Six large leaves, properly developed by exposure to the 
light, are better than twelve small and overcrowded ones. 
Having more than one shoot from each spur is even worse than 
crowding the spurs. After the Vines start you should make a 
point of tying down the best shoot, and removing all the others 
while yet soft and tender. As your employer says, the bunches 
may have been numerous, but neither they nor the berries 
could have been of very respectable size. The quality could 
not have been very high, for the berries were ripened late in 
the season. Never leave the pruning to be done with a knife 
in summer; the superfluous shoots may be disbudded from 
the spurs, and the shoot left to bear the fruit should be pinched 
above the second or third leaf, while yet quite tender. Make 
sure that you can tie down the best shoot without breaking it 
before you remove the remainder. 
Cauliflowers in a Sandy Border (T. B ). 
The case of buttoning may have been due to the fungus 
which produces Clubroot, or it may have been caused by the 
Cabbage Fly. When properly managed, a border of light soil 
facing south may be utilised to great advantage in the pro¬ 
duction of early crops of various kinds. We quite under¬ 
stand that it would be deleterious to the roots of the trees 
close by to trench or dig the border very deeply; but at the 
same time we think it quite possible to keep the bolder up 
to a high state of fertility by digging as deeply as you dare 
go, and using plenty of manure. However, it would be neces¬ 
sary to grow some other crops in the bolder for a number 
of years until the spores of the fungus have died out. At the 
same time it is quite possible that the Cauliflowers contracted 
the disease while still in the seed bed. It is quite possible, 
also, to infest the whole garden planted with the Brassica- 
tribe by carrying infection with them from the seed beds. 
This you will have to guard against. This year (lie border 
may lie utilised by sowing dwarf early Peas, such as American 
Wonder or English Wonder. Early Potatos may also- be 
grown upon it- to advantage. After the Peas or Potatos have 
been removed, the ground could then be utilised by planting 
Lettuces, Endive, or any other late crop intended to come 
into use during late autumn. After, -say, four or five years, or 
even less, you may try Cauliflowers as an early crop again. 
American Blight on Apple Trees (E. M. R.). 
The present is a very good time to attempt the eradication 
of American Blight, because the insects are usually confined 
to few places in winter. You should commence by clearing 
off the rough bark and other matter round the wounds on the 
stems and branches of the trees. This should be done with a 
sharp knife, carefully avoiding wounding the inner bark if 
possible. After this proceed to scrub or wash the wounds by 
means of a half-worn painter’s brush. One useful wash t hat- 
might be employed is petroleum emulsion. Another good 
wash would consist of \ lb. of carbolic soap in -1 gallons of 
water, with the addition of a small lump of soda. These two 
washes can be used for brushing the wounds, and the whole 
tree may even be syringed with the last-named wash. Some 
of the American Blight will be sure to escape, so that it would 
be advisable to keep a sharp eye on the first appearance of 
the pest and repeat the treatment with a syringe or sprayer, 
except the trees are in bloom. 
Seakale Forced in the Open (G. D W.). 
Seakale that has been forced in the ground where it is 
grown is sometimes left and allowed to grow for another year. 
We do not consider this to be by any means the best way. A 
far better plan is to trim off some of the stout thongs or roots 
of crowns intended to be forced, and keep them in sand until 
you can plant them in a permanent position in March. The 
old buds that have been forced can then be destroyed after 
the crowns have been gathered. 
Moss and Lichens on Fruit Trees (R. M.), 
About the middle of February, or at least, a considerable 
time before the buds expand, the following remedy may be 
carried out. Take 1 lb. of commercial caustic soda, dissolving 
it in hot water. Then dissolve 1 lb. of potash in hot water. 
Mix the two solutions, and then add J lb. of molasses. Add 
sufficient water to make the mixture up to 10 gallons; with 
this wash the trunks, and branches may be syringed. The 
caustic alkali has the effect of destroying Moss, Lichens and 
other vegetable matter growing upon the trees. It also dis¬ 
turbs various other tree pests or insect enemies which may 
be hibernating under shelter of the same, exposing them to 
frost. Inclement weather causes many of them to be killed 
at this time of the year. 
Suckers and Roots of Cherry Trees (C. B. D.). 
The usual method of destroying suckers is to pull them up, 
so as to remove them completely from ihe sockets of the roots 
in which they may be situated. To make sure of doing this 
without injury to the roots, a good plan would be to uncover 
the latter before attempting to pull away the suckers. In 
the case of small roots it would be advisable to cut the suckers 
clean away with a sharp knife. 
Crimson Rambler Rose on a Wall (A. L.). 
The plants might be lifted successfully by exercising great 
care in the removal of the roots, and reducing the longer ones, 
and in the reduction of the top, so as not to distress the 
mutilated roots in spring. If you are particularly anxious 
to save the old plant, as well as transplant it, it might be 
advisable to root-prune it during the present autumn. Other ¬ 
wise, however, we think it a much better plan to rear young 
plants for the purpose of covering pillars. Young plants are 
always more easy to naturalise than old plants which have 
been lifted. We quite agree that Crimson Rambler is un¬ 
suitable for wall culture, and that it succeeds admirably even 
when planted in full exposure to sunshine, or in half shady 
situations. Plants on pillars and arches are not- half so liable 
to red spider and mildew as plants on sheltered walls. 
Bare Ground under Cedars (Thames Valley). 
Grass does not give satisfaction under evergreen trees of 
any kind if those trees or their branches come pretty closely 
down to the ground. It is all a question of exposure to light 
to get grass to do well under such trees, and if the branches 
come near the ground, you must endeavour to plant something 
that will succeed better than grass if you must preserve the 
branches of the trees intact. Those trees whose branches are 
high up permit of grass growing fairly well beneath them, but 
in the other case mentioned, where branches come low down, 
you should try Periwinkle, Hypericum calycinum, Irish Ivy, 
Butcher’s Broom, and various of the hardier bulbs. 
