128 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
February 7, 1903. 
will be ready for sowing in a few days. In most instances 
the spores will drop out, and on opening the papers plenty of 
good spores will be found loose, and will require no rubbing of 
the fronds. Some do not fall out so freely, and in many in¬ 
stances’ a good crop of seedlings may be got when spore® appear 
very scarce. Onychium japonicum is an example of this, while 
in Onychium auratum the spores appear to be most abundant, 
yet it is rarely that they prove properly matured. The best 
batch of this I ever raised was from a small portion of a frond 
sent from India. I have many times since sown from home- 
saved spores without success, or, rather, with poor results, foi 
only a very limited number have germinated. 
Now, with regard to the keeping qualities of spores, I have 
proved beyond a doubt that in many instances they perish 
within a very limited period. Under certain conditions some 
may retain their vitality for a very considerable time, but this 
should not be relied upon. I remember once having a good 
packet of Adiantum Lathomi, and raised a fine batch of seed- 
lino's, but sowing from the same packet a year later proved 
quite abortive, though several different sowings were made. 
I have also found that the Davallias germinate freely from new 
spores, yet could never succeed from those that had been kept 
more than a few months. Now, the best time for collecting 
spores is during the summer and early autumn; and plants 
that have beon°well exposed mature their spores better than 
those grown under shade and in a close, moist atmosphere. 
The best batch of Flatycerium grande I ever raised was from 
spores taken from a plant which was hanging up close to the 
glass, where it was fairly dry and exposed to sun and light. 
In some instances spores may not be obtainable during the 
period mentioned above, and then they must he secured when¬ 
ever they are. procurable ; but the most important point is to 
secure them before all the best spores have dropped from their 
cases. In Lastrea aristata, when the capsules first open the 
black spores will be quite apparent, but a little later on, only 
the brown disc will be left. Pteris argyrea is anotner example 
in which, on account of the spores being black, it is easily seen 
liow soon they fall. T ^ . . , , ■ 
Good spores vary much in colour. In Osmunda palustris 
they are a bright green. Dicksonia has bright yellow spores ; 
in most of the Adiantums the spores are nearly black, but some 
are brown and some yellow. If due care has been exercised m 
saving the spores the difficulty of raising seedlings will be con¬ 
siderably minimised. The spores may be sown at any time. 
I may refer to the sowing and after treatment m a future note 
if acceptable. teuis. 
Primula Growing. 
With the time approaching for these beautiful and useful plants 
to come to perfection, to brighten up our conservatories and 
greenhouses, a few words on their culture may not he out of 
place for most gardeners grow a few. In some gardens we fine 
a poorly drawn up collection. The chief aim in growing Primulas 
should be to get sturdy plants from the first; never coddle them 
in heat Some growers sow in February and March, but I prefer 
sowing either in May or June. From this sowing excellent plants 
can be obtained by this date, a time when they come in useful; 
with the bulk of late Chrysanthemums over, and forcing plants 
hardly in, they fill up a gap. . .. ,, 
A light moist compost is best, using pots or small pans, well 
crocked for sowing in. The seed should be sown very thinly and 
evenly with just a slight sprinkling of soil to cover it, watering 
with a very fine rose. A piece of glass should be placed over 
the pots or pans till the seedlings appear. A temperature of 
60de°\ is suitable to place them in to germinate. 
When the seedlings are large enough to handle prick them 
into pans or small boxes ; this allows them time to make plenty 
of roots before being petted up into 60-size pots—their next shift. 
Soil a little heavier than used for sowing should now be given. 
A shelf iu the greenhouse is an excellent place for them, shading 
for a few days if needed. 
As "tli© pots become filled witli roots tliey should b© ticinsterrecl 
to 48deg. and 32deg. The soil for the final potting should consist 
of two parts fibrous loam, broken into- pieces the size- of walnuts, 
equal parts of leaf mould, and old spent mushroom manure, with 
sufficient sand to keep it porous. 
In potting, use the fingers to make the soil firm, but a flat 
label can -be used for pushing the soil down the sides of the pots. 
Primulas should be grown during the summer months in cold 
frames, with a good bed -of ashes under them t-o -bring them 
near the glass. ' Give them plenty of air during favourable 
weather. A light shade will be required during the brightest 
hours of the day. 
"When the pots are filled with roots, weak soot and manure- 
water should be given twice a week. As soon as the flower spike 
appears a little artificial manure may be given them, either by 
sprinkling a little round the pots and pricking the top a little, or 
by dissolving a little in the watering-pot. 
During September they should be taken in the greenhouse and 
placed on a shelf or stage as near the glass as possible to prevent 
the plants drawing till they come to perfection, with a tempera¬ 
ture of 45deg. to 50deg. A gentle pressing of the leaves down¬ 
wards once a week allows the spikes of flowers to throw up well 
above the green foliage, and the plants look far better than being 
a thick mass of bloom and foliage. 
Watering during the dull weather needs great care, as the plants 
are liable to go off at the collars. 
January 28th, 1903. J. Botxey. 
Hints on Orchid Culture. 
Many people have greenhouses or a glass structure of some 
kind and devote it to a few Fuchsias or Geraniums, and it has 
-often struck me that they could be utilised to better advantage, 
and made much more interesting if replaced with a few cool 
Orchids. 
Some have an idea they are expensive subjects to deal with, 
but this is erroneous, nor do they require special houses ; in fact, 
many seem to do better when grown with other plants. Of 
course, with large collections separate compartments for different 
genera are absolutely necessary. If one possesses a single house, 
then such as Odontoglossums, Masdevallias, Oncidiums, and 
Cypripedium in-signe should be grown. The temperature should 
not fall below 45° F. during the winter, and keep the house moist 
and cool through the summer months. 
If one has a house divided into two compartments, Cattleyas, 
Laelias, and Cypripediums will thrive in the warmest of the 
two, providing the temperature does not go below 50° F. in 
winter ; this can be gradually raised to 65° and 70° as the season 
advances. 
When potting use a compost of moss and peat, and slightly 
raise the plants above the rim of .the pot, unless they are potted 
in leaf soil, when the base of the pseudo bulbs should be level 
with the rim. I should only recommend leaf soil for those who 
have had a little experience or the mortality amongst the plants 
may be very great. Pay careful attention to drainage, and fix 
the plants in firmly. The compost is only a secondary con¬ 
sideration ; the essential points to be- observed are careful water¬ 
ing, resting, -air, moist atmosphere, freedom from insect pests, 
and shading from the direct rays of the sun. Every Orchid 
requires a decided rest, the period varying according to the 
different specie-s. When a Ca-ttleya or Dendrobium has finished 
its growth a long rest is required ; only enough water should be 
given to prevent the bulbs from shrivelling. Masdevallias and 
Odontoglossums should be kept on the diy side- for about six 
weeks. During t-he growing season they will need more water, 
and the air must be well charged with moisture by “ damping 
down” the pathway and in between the pots, and allowing the 
atmosphere to become dry for about an hour in the middle of 
the day. 
When the weather is dry and hot an occasional spray overhead 
will greatly improve the- iflant-s, especially the “ cool ” Orchids, 
and the Odontoglossums should be sprayed over in the evening 
about six o’clock. 
Plenty of air must be admitted on favourable occasions, and 
during the summer months the bottom ventilators can be left 
partly open all night; also a little top air on the cool house will 
prove beneficial. The inse-cts that mostly trouble Orchids are 
green-fly, thrips, scale, and mealy-bug ; the two former can be 
kept- under by fumigating with XL All about every fortnight, and 
sponge with some -insecticide to destroy the latter. 
Amongst the cool Orchids slugs and snails sometimes play 
havoc with the roots and spikes. What is more- annoying to look 
through the Odontoglossums some morning and find two or three 
spikes eaten away at the base 1 Lettuce or Cabbage leaves placed 
anrongs-t the plants will entrap these “ silent foes,” hut the better 
plan is to go round at night with a lamp. 
Woodlice and cockroaches are- very fond of getting among 
the warmer Orchids. Sliced Pot-a-tos should he placed round 
the haunts of the woodlice, which examine eveiy morning. 
Phosphorus paste spread on bread and butter and laid about the 
house will destroy the cockroaches. W. B. 
*** The prize last week in the Readers 5 Competition was 
awarded to “Heather Bell” for his article on “Chat 
ahont Alpines,” p. 107. 
