170 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
February 21, 1903. 
•n t-> a TJ O 7 /*< /\1 f T^PT^THPI^WT For details of this competition and prize offered, please 
Kr< f\ 1 3 r J 1C v/ lVl, & 11/ i Jl J& iv/AN. see page 165. Please post on Friday night. 
The Hollyhock (Althea rosea). 
Any good old garden soil, well trenched, will grow the Holly¬ 
hock well, and these plants form an imposing back line in a 
mixed border, and should be planted not less than 3ft. apart. 
They can also be grown to perfection in beds planted 4ft. apart 
each way. A peculiar and destructive fungus, named Puccinia 
malvaccarum, often works sad havoc with the Hollyhock, 
destroying the leaves and corroding the flower-stalks. One of 
the best means of neutralising the effects of the disease is to 
deeply trench the soil in which the plants are to grow, placing 
plenty of Cow manure just below the roots ; and, after planting, 
mulch the surface with a good dressing of the same. 
There are three ways of propagating the Hollyhock—by seeds, 
cuttings, and division of the roots. The general practice is to 
sow the seeds in July or August, placing the pans in a cold 
frame, and then planting out in autumn in good ground, to 
flower the following season. No one should sow seed unless 
from a good strain, and during this month, if sown in pans in 
light free soil, a great advantage will be gained. At this time 
of the year the seeds germinate freely in a gentle bottom heat. 
As soon as large enough they should be potted, singly, into 
small pots, and repotted into larger ones as soon as they gain 
strength and size, and, when they have filled the pots with 
roots, be planted out in well-trenched and highly-manured ground 
about the middle of May. A large number of the plants will 
flower the same year, and thus a season’s growth is saved. Pro¬ 
pagation by cuttings is the best mode of obtaining plants of 
good varieties, and the practice may be carried on from March 
to October. Most of the old plants give plenty of young shoots 
early in spring ; and, as soon as these become a little hard, cut 
them off close to the stem, and place three or four round the 
side of a 5-inch pot in light, sandy soil. Plunge in a cold 
frame, where in a few weeks they will be ready to pot separately 
into 4-inch pots. 
Propagation by division of the roots is best done in autumn, 
when the flowering season is over. One large plant can be 
divided into tlrree or four pieces. Each piece must have some 
roots attached, and be potted up and kept in a cold frame 
during winter, and then planted out in spring, or else planted 
out in ^autumn in light, well-drained soil. 
If the flowers of the Hollyhock are wanted for exhibition a 
few hints to the intending exhibitor may be of service. As a 
matter of course, to have fine flowers there must be special 
cultivation, and the soil about the plants should be mulched 
with short dung ; and liquid manure or guano, rendered as 
soluble as possible in water, may also be given twice a week. 
If individual flowers are aimed at, leave one spike only on one 
plant and see that it is properly staked and securely tied. Cut 
away all lateral shoots thrown out from the spike, thin out the 
flower buds if too much crowded together, and take off the top 
of the spike when it has developed 3ft. of flowers. As a matter 
of course, by topping the spike the grower increases the size 
of the individual flowers, but he will also shorten the duration 
of the blooming of the plant. This is one of the sacrifices that 
have to be made in order to obtain show flowers. The perfec¬ 
tion of a flower consists in the petals being thick of substance, 
the edges smooth and even, the florets occupying the centre full 
and compact, closely arranged, rising high in the middle, and 
of globular form, with a stiff guard petal, forming the ba.se of 
the flower and extending about half an inch or so in proportion 
to the size of the centre ball ; so that the different parts of the 
flower iDresent a uniform appearance. The arrangement of 
flowers on the spike needs to be regular, not being crowded 
together in a confused mass nor loosely hanging with open spaces 
between each bloom, but so disposed that the shape of each may 
be distinctly seen, when fully blown, the uppermost covering 
the top, and nothing can add more to the beauty of the spike 
than a few green leaves between the flowers, which give it an 
elegant and graceful appearance. A further important point i 9 
colour ; the brighter, stronger, and more distinct the better. 
St. Catherine’s. R. McK. 
Raising Tender Annuals. 
The time is approaching when seed of tender or half-hardy 
annuals should be sown, and among the great variety of these 
I find the following most useful for cut-flower purposes, as they 
are for display in beds or borders. The Aster is decidedly the 
favourite with the majority of lovers of all garden flowers, and 
is indispensable, Everybody should grow these popular 
annuals, and the varieties “Comet” and “ Ostrich Plume” 
Asters should be sown preferably the first week in April, as 
they require a constant growth to make them satisfactory. If 
sown earlier they are apt to he put on one side, and conse¬ 
quently starved. For a late display and successional cutting 
another sowing may be made about the middle of Slay ; these 
will be found useful for autumn. 
Ten-weeks Stocks should take the second place among the 
favoured tender annuals. The fragrance of these is very deli¬ 
cious. Sowings of these should be made early in February, as 
much finer blooms are produced than if sown later. I would 
also remind the reader that the smaller sized plants produce 
the best double flowers, the stronger ones generally running to 
single trusses. French and African Marigolds are also most 
useful for display, especially the lemon and orange varieties of 
the latter. Marigolds should be sown in the middle of March, 
and pricked off in an early stage. Phlox Drummondii makes 
grand beds, and as the flowers are so greatly improved, both in 
shape and size, should be grown by those who have room at 
disposal. The middle to the end of March is the best time 
for sowing. The seeds soon germinate, and should be pricked 
off early and kept near the glass to prevent them getting drawn 
up and weakly. 
Salpiglossis grandiflora, though a hardy annual, may be sown 
in boxes or pans, pricked off, and transplanted to beds or in 
masses. Treated in this manner I find they do much better, 
and are indispensable for cut flower purposes. The seed 
should be sown the end of February. Verbena hybrids 
is also useful for beds, and if sown the last week in 
February in gentle heat; and the seedlings, if pricked off in 
their early stage, will make good plants for transferring to beds 
towards the end 1 of May. Lastly, Zinnia elegans fl. pi. is 
becoming a popular flower on account of the peculiar shades 
which the flowers assume. The seeds should be sown about the 
end of March, and require continual growth, as they dislike 
any check from the time of sowing to planting out in masses 
or borders. 
All tender amnuals require pricking off into pans or boxes 
(or frames if at command), and should be handled at their 
earliest stages ; and after they have started well into the fresh 
soil should be inured to plenty of light and air, to induce strong, 
sturdy growth. They should, however, be protected from the 
keen easterly winds prevalent at that time of year. J. T. 
Saving Seed of Primula sinensis. 
Seed saving is most interesting, and a particular strain may 
be greatly improved by saving the seed from selected plants. 
New and distinct varieties may also be raised by crossing the 
finest forms one with another, and I hope these remarks may 
be the means of some readers devoting a little time and atten¬ 
tion to the subject this season. When fertilising Primulas the 
points to consider are the colour, size, and quality of the flowers, 
and plants which throw the flower spikes well above the foliage 
only should be used. If a flower is examined, in the centre 
will be found a small object something like a miniature pin’s 
head. This is the stigma. If the flower is split down, the centre, 
the anthers bearing the pollen will be found on the inside. 
Choose a sunny day this month for the operation, which is best 
done about noon, when the pollen is dry and dust-like. Remove 
a little pollen with a camel’s hair brush, and apply it carefully 
to the stigma of the flower to be fertilised. A label should be 
attached to each plant, giving full particulars of the variety 
used, date, etc. In a few days after being fertilised the flowers 
drop off, and if the seed-pods are seen to be swelling like small 
bladders, the remaining flowers should be cut off, which will 
throw the energies of the plant into the seed-pods. Place the 
plants on a shelf in the greenhouse where they get the full 
benefit of the sun, and do not neglect them until the seeds are 
ripe. When the seeds are ripe the pods burst, and should bft 
gathered' at once. W. Hopkins. 
Broadlees, Reigate. 
Foliage Plants for Table Decoration. 
The season is upon us when preparations are being made to 
raise up a stock of foliage plants for use during the summer 
and autumn months. Present-day requirements demand a 
supply of well-grown plants for dinner tables and other choice 
decorations. It is always a pleasure to see a collection of 
sturdy and compact plants of Crotons, Caladiums, and Dracaenas, 
with their varied and beautiful colours, to what it is to see tall, 
leggy specimens of the first and last named, with a few leaves 
on the top of the plants, taking up just the same amount of 
