February 28, 1903. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
if 9 
Potatos.—Early varieties may be planted in small quantities 
on warm borders. Put the tubers in fairly deep and mulch 
over the ground with long litter. Choose those kinds which 
make but little haulm, such as Sharpe’s Victor, May Queen, 
and Harbinger. E. Beckett. 
Aldenham House Gardens, Elstree. 
Hardy Herbaceous Plants. 
Suitable Subjects for Naturalising.—The system of natural¬ 
ising hardy plants in such places as the wilderness, copse, by 
tire side of woodland walks, etc., is one that has much to re¬ 
commend itself to planters on account of the small amount of 
attention necessary for the welfare of the plants and the many 
forms of simple beauty created by a judicious selection and 
planting of the various subjects suitable for the purpose. 
Many plants which, if grown, in the herbaceous border, would 
rightly be considered as too rampant, and in some cases as 
pestilent weeds, are admirably suited for the above-mentioned 
places, where they soon make themselves at home, and have 
the appearance of being in their proper place. Moreover, as 
the season of rest approaches, there is no fear of the decaying 
stems and fallen leaves presenting an untidy appearance, as 
these pleasantly harmonise with the surroundings, and prove 
beneficial to the roots by being allowed to stay until the young- 
shoots make their appearance in the spring. 
When preparing the positions for the various subjects it will 
be well, if the soil is not of a suitable nature, to take out a 
fairly deep hole and fill in with a good compost, with which 
should be incorporated some well-decayed manure. 
Among the most desirable subjects for beautifying the above- 
mentioned place are the coarser varieties of Michaelmas Daisies, 
of the Novi Belgii group especially. These make a fine display 
in the autumn, when little other flower is to be seen outside, 
can run at the root as they like, and the warm-looking stems 
have a pleasant effect in winter. The commoner Golden Rods 
cr Solidagos, which will include canadensis, multi radiata and 
rigida, quickly establish themselves, and the golden flower- 
heads are objects of much beauty through the summer months. 
Mulgedium alpinum is a plant seldom seen, but well adapted 
for the wild garden, with large blue flowers. It spreads rapidly, 
and should be allotted plenty- of room. The same may be said 
of the winter Heliotrope, Petasites fragrans, which proves such 
a weed in the border. Its sweetly-scented flowers, although not 
showy, are much appreciated in the depth of winter. 
Foxgloves or Digitalis.—No other clumps are more beautiful 
in the woodland than good bold clumps of these, their stately 
spikes being most conspicuous. If the soil is suitable, the-se 
will freely increase from self-sown seed, and quickly become 
naturalised. The best for the purpose are the dark red and 
spotted varieties. 
The Acanthus, with their ample foliage and massive flower 
spikes, are some of the most desirable plants we have for the 
above positions, requiring a good deep soil and plenty of space 
to develop. 
The above are some of the more showy subjects; others 
equally suitable are the commoner varieties of Hemerocallis 
and Echinops, Mulleins, Saponaria officinalis flore pleno, per¬ 
ennial Sunflowers, Solomon’s Seal, Evening Primroses, and 
many more which must be determined by the locality one has 
to deal with and the nature of the soil. 
Violas. — Cuttings which -were inserted last autumn and 
wintered in cold frames should now be well rooted and ready 
for transplanting where they are to flower. To obtain the best 
results a border should be devoted entirely to them, allotting 
a space to each variety, arranging them so that the colours 
effectively harmonise. Before planting, tread the soil quite 
solid and rake down finely. Lift each plant from the frame 
with a good ball of soil, and plant firmly at a distance of 1 ft. 
apart all ways. When this is completed, apply a good mulch¬ 
ing of sifted old mushroom-bed manure, which will greatly 
benefit the plants during summer. 
Viola seed for flowering this year may now be sown in a 
gentle heat, and pricked off into boxes or a cold frame when 
large enough. Plant out as advised in May. 
Liliums, which have to be planted, should now begot in with¬ 
out delay. Theauratum type, in fact the majority of Liliums, 
revel in a compost of peat, loam, and leaf-mould, with a liberal 
addition of coarse sand, and, if possible, always pflant them in 
positions where the ground has been well drained. 
A. E. Thatchek. 
Aldenham House Gardens, Elstree. 
Fruit under Glass. 
Pot Vines.—November-started canes will have been thinned 
before this. Do not overcrop ; six to eight bunches usually 
suffice, though Black Hamburghs and Foster’s Seedling will, if 
strong, bring to maturity a bunch or two in excess of this. In 
going over the bunches a second time, remove any inside berries 
first, allowing each berry left space to swell up, which, by the 
time they are fully ripe, should be nearly 1 in. in diameter. 
Stop all laterals at the first leaf, and should red spider appear 
on the leaves nearest the hot-water pipes, sponge the same with 
warm soapy water. As the roots of pot vines are confined in 
a small space, weak manorial waterings should be given twice 
or thrice each week, or a sprinkling of Thomson’s or other 
approved artificial manure be applied and well watered in. A 
night temperature varying from 63 deg. to 65 deg., according 
to the weather, advancing to 75 deg. or 80 deg. with sun-heat, 
admitting air cautiously, and closing about 2 p.m. with plenty 
of atmospheric moisture about the bed, path walls, etc. 
Early Permanent Vines.—Houses closed early in the year 
have, owing to- the very mild weather, made good progress, and 
the-"Nines as they come into flower should have their rods 
gently tapped about mid-day, with a view of distributing the 
pollen of free-setting varieties, such as described above, while 
for Muscat it is wisest to go over the bunches daily with a 
camel-hair brush, introducing pollen from the Hamburgh if 
considered necessary. The lateral growths should be pinched 
at one or two joints beyond the bunch, according to space 
between the rods, and the border afforded a root-watering if 
inside, before the Vines come into flower. Now the sun has 
daily more power, airing will become necessary earlier in the 
mornings, and a chink should be given as soon as the glass 
registers 70 deg. to 75 deg., avoiding cold draughts, maintaining 
a night temperature of 60 deg. until the flowering period, when 
an extra 5 deg. should be given. 
Succession-Vineries, started from now onwards, should have 
their inside borders examined and tepid water applied if found 
on the dry side, maintaining a night temperature of 50 deg. to 
55 deg. until the buds are well advanced; and as soon as the 
bunches can be seen, disbud the Vines, leaving one lateral only 
at each spur unless an extra one is really required to cover t he 
trellis. In bringing the shoots down to this great care is re- 
quired, for if tied too low at first snapping of the shoot easily 
takes place, so such work must be done gradually. The after 
treatment is the same as given for early Vines. Keep the 
latest vineries as cool as possible for the present. Vine eyes 
may yet be placed in small pots or pieces of turf and plunged 
in a brisk bottom heat, say 75 deg. to 80 deg. 
Early Peach House. -Trees in this -structure appear to have 
set well, though during the past six weeks we have not been 
over-done with sun. Disbudding of the trees should be done 
gradually so- as not to- give any great check, removing those 
shoots on the under sides of last year’s wood first, reserving 
the leading growth and the one nearest the base on the upper 
side of the said shoot for next year's fruiting. Spurs may be 
encouraged, where space admits, by pinching out the point of 
the shoot at the second or third leaf. Lightly syringe the 
trees morning and again at 2 p.m., and, should apliis appear, 
add half a pint of quassia extract to 4 gallons of water at the 
afternoon syringing, or lightly fumigate with X L All. The 
day temperature should not exceed 75 deg., affording air at 
