February 28, 1903. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
191 
READERS’ COMPETITION. For S?. 3S. plc 
Turving. 
The present month—February—is perhaps the best for 
placing on new turves, as they would be ready to start away 
into growth with the lengthening days. Most gardeners can 
spare the necessary time, and better now than later on. Of 
course, in wet and frosty weather turving is best left alone. 
In choosing turves those of a short, close growth should be 
selected from an old pasture. Practically, the older the better, 
as age seems to add elasticity to the turves, making them pleasant 
to work with. Previous to laying the turves the ground beneath 
them should be of an even firmness, otherwise hillocks and 
hollows will result ; and where practicable each turve as cut 
from the pasture should be laid on the new work as cut from 
the source of supply. Thus the same edges separated originally 
are finally joined, and, if put together with a little care, show 
no open spaces. 
In turving a circular bank with extending base, the length of 
top and bottom should be taken ; then strike a tight line to 
touch the circular portion halfway from either end ; now 
measure from ends of line into bank, similarly at top. Cut 
turves with a curve exactly corresponding, placing the joints to 
look northward, thus reducing their opening by sunshine in dry 
weather. In turving level work the joints lengthways should be 
“broken.” 
There are many tools besides edging irons for cutting turves, 
but for newly-laid work I find a piece of old scythe blade, cutting 
off the back and hollow portion, leaving it about lgin. broad anil 
9in. long, running two holes in one end with vertical brace, or, 
failing these, lay it on a piece of wood and drive a nail through it. 
Any handy man can do this on a wet day. Place on it a wooden 
handle, and rivet it through the holes. This home-made inven¬ 
tion is the best tool for the purpose I know of. Ulsta. 
Acalypha hispid a. 
As a winter-flowering stove plant, introduced from the Bis¬ 
marck Archipelago some seven or eight years ago, the above 
named is one too seldom seen grown to perfection." It is a plant 
of very free growth, the long tail-like crimson-red spikes being 
produced in the freest manner, bearing some resemblance both in 
shape and colour to the long- spikes of the well-known “ Love 
Lies Bleeding.” To grow this plant successfully cuttings should 
be struck annually and grown up on the “ express ” system, the old 
plants being discarded, as they very soon become an eyesore by 
losing part of their foliage. A young batch can very soon be 
got up, either by topping the old plants or from eyes or stem 
cuttings. The latter method I prefer, and grow it on the single¬ 
stem system. 
The first week in March is a good time to start propagating 
operations if the plants are expected to remain in full beauty 
during the winter months. The cuttings, when about 3in. or 
4in. long, should be inserted singly into 60-sized pots, .in a 
nice open compost consisting of two parts loam, one part leaf 
mould, one part cocoanut or jadoo fibre, with the necessary 
quantity of sand to keep it sweet and porous. Plunge the pots 
to the rim in cocoanut fibre in the propagating case, with a 
temperature of about 80deg. ; give a good watering to settle the 
soil, and they will require little more beyond a light spray during 
the middle of the day. until rooted, always making sure that the 
water is the same temperature as the house for both watering and 
spraying. 
In about a month the cuttings should be rooted, when they 
should be gradually hardened by admitting a little air to the 
case, and finally remove to a shelf close to the glass, shading a 
tittle if necessary. When thoroughly well rooted shift on into 
oin. or 6m. pots, which should in all cases be thoroughly clean 
and dry, using a. somewhat heavier compost, with the addition 
of bone dust or some approved fertiliser. Carefully crock the 
pots and pot firm, but always allow for the dry or wet condition 
of the potting material, which should be the same temperature as 
the house in which the plants are growing, again placing them 
in suitable quarters close to the glass. Apply water carefully 
until the roots get hold of the new compost, after which thev can 
take a liberal supply. 
By the first, or second week in May they should be ready for 
iv * hlft mto 8in ’ P ots - The compost at this potting 
snouid be of a pretty loamy nature. I have found the following 
o suit them very well : —Three parts good .fibrous loam and one 
P r good sound peat and leaf mould, adding enough sand to 
make the whole porous, also a good dash of bone dust. Grow 
them on in a house where the day temperature may rise With sun 
heat to 95deg., with a night temperature of 75deg. Keep the 
atmosphere well charged with moisture, and syringe the plants 
twice daily all through the growing season. Shade a little on 
bright days, but they can stand a fair amount of sun ; in fact, 
they must have it in order to keep them short-jointed and induce 
them to flower freely. When the pots get full of roots they 
will require feeding, little and! often being the safe rule ; but 
I find they can take more feeding than the majority of stove 
plants. Any of the well-known manures will suit. This is the 
time one can almost see them grow. 
I find their greatest enemy to be red spider, this occurring 
during tiie winter months, when the syringe has to be withheld 
and the atmosphere kept drier. Sponging with some approved 
insecticide must be brought into force, care being taken to keep 
the sponge off the flowers, they being so liable to damp. Thrips 
can easily be kept at bay by the frequent use of some approved 
vaporiser. During the winter months keep the temperature of 
the house at 50deg. to 55deg. 
By the end of the season the plants should be about 4ft. high, 
and furnished with flower and foliage from the top to bottom. 
Where small plants are required for table decoration, cuttings 
may be struck later, and grown on in 5in. pots. D. S. 
Brussels Sprouts. 
Growers of this indispensable winter vegetable will now be 
making preparations for sowing seed. The old idea of sowing 
in autumn is now almost exploded. The best results are always 
obtained from seed sown about February 15th in a warm frame. 
I prefer to use a box of turfy loam, with the addition of a little 
leaf mould. As soon as the seedlings appear, keep as near to the 
glass as possible to insure sturdy growth. As soon as the plants 
have formed a rough leaf they are picked out into other boxes, 
and in a few days transferred to cooler quarters, excluding frost. 
M hen they begin to show signs of crowding they are transplanted 
in a cold frame to be hardened off in the usual way. For all 
stages I use the same light compost, with perhaps a sprinkling 
of soot and lime in the later. The result is, about the 1st April 
there are fine healthy, sturdy plants ready for permanent 
quarters, which is always a well-manured piece of ground, dug 
two spits deep the previous autumn. The plants are carefully 
lifted with a trowel, and planted with the same- 2gft. each way 
between the plants, immediately afterwards putting a sprinkling 
of soot round each plant. Nothing further than occasional 
stirring with the hoe is required until June, when, if we can 
spare some dung by way of mulching, it always repays. The 
variety grown is McArthur’s Triumph, which we consider a 
decided improvement on other varieties grown ; in fact, it is the 
variety always seen on the exhibition table in this locality. Not 
being so robust as Welch’s Giant, it may be planted closer, and 
is covered to the ground with good-sized sprouts of very fine 
quality. I might here say that this variety was raised about 
fourteen years ago by Mr. McArthur, late gardener to> Sir John 
Leng, M.P. Messrs. Storrie and Storrie, seedsmen, Dundee, 
include it among their specialities, sending the seed out in their 
own sealed packets. Jas. Bethel. 
Primula sinensis alba plena. 
The double white Primula being one of the best winter-flower¬ 
ing plants we have, a few remarks as to their culture, perhaps, 
will not be out of place, as I consider, when grown] in two 
different batches, practically speaking, one may have plenty of 
flower till the time for propagating them begins again. I have 
propagated them two different ways, but the one I like the best 
is from cuttings inserted by the middle of March for the first 
batch to bloom. Take them off with a good sharp knife, making 
them into a cutting, and placing one singly in a 60-sized pot° 
using equal parts leaf mould, loam, cocoanut fibre, and sand. 
Settle well in with a rosed can, plunging them in a gentle hot¬ 
bed, in a house for preference, shading from sun, and takiffg the 
lights off a few minutes each morning to let out the damp when 
nicely rooted. Inure them to the temperature of the house, 
potting off into flowering pots, using a richer compost as 
follows :—Three parts loam, one part rotted horse manure that 
has been well exposed to the weather, but dry when used, one 
part leaf mould, half part coarse silver sand, half part old mortar 
rubble. Well drain the pots, and the size I like is 32's or 7in. 
pots. When potted transfer them to heated pits, keeping them 
