March 14, 1903. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
235 
READERS’ COMPETITION 
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Chrysanthemum Culture: Stopping and Timing. 
Perhaps the most difficult phase of Chrysanthemum culture is 
that known as “ stopping and timing,” yet it is rather strange 
that so little is said of this by writers on the subject. In a 
simple way it is here intended to indicate the meaning of the 
terms, a little, to assist those growers who lack the time to tind 
out for themselves. What, then, is the meaning of the phrase 
“stopping and timing”? Stopping, as we all know, means 
pinching out the tipo of the shoot, while timing is the art of 
inducing a bud to form at or near a given date, and is the chief 
aim of stopping. Thus, if all varieties were of one habit of 
growth, it would be quite an easy matter to ascertain a fairly 
correct date to “ stop,” which would also ensure bud formation 
at a date equally correct. That quite the reverse of this exists 
all growers well know, and, though not literally true, it would 
be nearer the mark to say that not two varieties are exactly the 
same. 
Speaking in a general way, it may be said that many, or 
most, of the second crown varieties are stopped in April, while 
first crowns are stopped a month later. Others, again, are 
grown from the cutting to the finished bloom with no stopping 
whatever. The exceptions to these miles are perhaps not so 
many as may be thought, but two very notable exceptions come 
to mind at this moment. Mrs. H. Weeks and Florence Molyneux 
are both excelent white varieties if properly handled, and 
where cuttings are now rooted these should be stopped at once, 
then allowed to grow with no other check, and buds should then 
appear in good time for the shows. 
In addition to the many peculiar traits of our subjects to be 
grasped by experience, the effects of an excessively wet or dry 
season upset our calculations, so that it is necessary to be a little 
varying in our treatment, and if our most important operations 
are briefly recorded it will be of more help to us than many 
articles could be. To hint at a few good sorts, cuttings of which 
may now be inserted, may be of utility to some reader, as well 
as to illustrate the text still further. Mrs. H. Weeks, Florence 
Molyneux, and Vicar of Leather head are three which will give 
the best results if cuttings are now inserted and grown straight 
on ; as also will the following if stopped in April :■—Duchess of 
Sutherland, George Carpenter, Mme. Paolo Radaelli, Mme. R. 
Cadbury, Mrs. J. Bryant, Mrs. J. C. Neville, and W. H. Wliite- 
house. A few others which should be stopped about a month 
later are Dolly Glide, C. J. Mee, H. T. Burrowes, Mme. Von 
Andre, Mme. Herrewege, Australie, Godfrey’s Triumph, and 
C. Jarvis. 
The method of growing full-size blooms in bin. pots is becom¬ 
ing increasingly popular, and it has been found to suit the 
varieties above mentioned admirably. Of course, one shoot 
only is grown upon each plant, but the whole treatment is of the 
simplest nature. H. J. G. 
Sweet Peas for Exhibition. 
The popularity of the Sweet Pea having increased to such an 
extent during the last few years, a few words on the growth and 
management of them for exhibition will, I trust, interest readers 
of Ihe Gardening Would. To begin with, it is necessary for 
everyone who attempts their culture to attend to them thoroughly 
from start to finish. The smallest item overlooked often means 
failure, and, consequently, disappointment. They will grow in 
almost any soil if well treated, but the best is a rich, deep loam, 
well manured and trenched in the autumn, and left rough all 
the winter, to allow frost and snow to penetrate and sweeten it. 
Most Sweet Pea growers now sow the seed in pots, and plant out, 
this method being far preferable to that of sowing outdoors. 
The seed should be sown about the second or third week in 
February, according to locality. A suitable compost consists of 
two parts fibrous loam and two parts leaf soil, and decayed 
manure, with a little sand. Five-inch pots are the best to use, 
placing about five seeds round the edge, and one in the middle 
of the pot, and covering to the depth of about half-an-inch with 
fine soil, and well watering iii with a fine rose can. It is a great 
mistake to sow Sweet Pea. seed too thickly. Many sow ten or 
fifteen seeds where they should only ®ow five or six, thinking 
thereby to obtain better plants by the time they are ready to be 
planted out. but such is not the case, as the plants become too 
thick and crowded. Each pot when sown, should 'be correctly 
labelled, and all, if possible, placed on a shelf in a warm green¬ 
house, out of the reach of mice, which are most destructive. They 
should be kept covered with paper until they have germinated, 
and then let them have all the light possible, and air judiciously 
when the weather permits. They should be gradually hardened 
off until ready to be placed in cold frames, which should not be 
until danger of severe frost is over. 
When the plaints are ready to be put out, which will be about 
the end of April, if the weather is favourable, the ground they 
are to occupy should be broken up with a fork and made firm. A 
gcocl effect is made by placing the colours in one row, say three 
clumps of blue, then three of wlrite, three of red, and so on until 
the row is completed. It is also advisable to have a pot or two 
of each variety to spare in ca.se any should be lost through any 
cause. When they are planted a few sticks about a foot high 
should be placed round each clump, and the tendrils encouraged 
to climb for a start, after which they will go themselves. A few 
fir boughs placed round them will protect them from late frosts, 
should there be any, and also from bright sun ; but after they 
are established these should be removed. As they grow longer 
sticks will be needed, using the same as are required for garden 
Peas. Stick them in firmly, and clip the ragged ends off the top, 
to give a neat and tidy appearance. They should be well watered 
when planted, and also at any other time when they require it. 
An occasional watering with liquid manure will greatly benefit 
them, and also a light sprinkling of some good artificial manure, 
if possible, just before a shower of rain. 
As the seedpods appear they should be kept picked off, and it is 
also a good plan to slightly thin the flower spikes if there are a 
great many, as those that are left will be finer as they develop. 
Some varieties are liable to be scalded if the sun be very hot, and 
these should be kept shaded a day or two before the show for 
which they are needed. One of the worst offenders in this re¬ 
spect is Nawy Blue, which scalds in a veiy little while if unpro¬ 
tected. The plants should be syringed overhead every evening 
after the heat of the sun is off them with the garden engine. This 
keeps the growth clear and vigorous, and in my opinion is one of 
the main factors in Sweet Pea culture. 
A few days before the flowers are wanted to be cut they should 
be kept dry and syringing discontinued, as this is liable to mark 
the blooms, which greatly detracts from their appearance. It is 
best, if possible, to cut, the flowers on the morning of the show, 
before the sun gets on them, and placing them directly in jars of 
water, until they are ready to be packed. This should be done 
with great care, placing a thin layer of flowers in the box,, and 
then a sheet of tissue paper, and so on till the box is full. They 
should be kept level until they arrive at their destination, when, 
if possible, they should be unpacked and put up directly. 
Judicious placing of the colours will have much to do with the 
judges’ decision. Give each bunch plenty of room in the vase, 
not cramming them in. but arrange lightly with Gypsophila, 
Fern, or their own foliage, whichever takes the fancy of the ex¬ 
hibitor. 
R. Thatcher. 
Wistow Gardens, Leicester. 
Plants for Winter Decoration. 
Many winter-flowering plants, suitable, for producing flowers 
during the dreary months, from now onward require attention 
and a few remarks as to their treatment may prove seasonable. 
Chrysanthemums, Primulas, Cyclamens, not forgetting the 
popular winter-flowering Begonias, have been so frequently dis¬ 
cussed in the pages of The Gardening World that it is quite 
unnecessary, from a cultural point of view, to mention them in 
this article. 
A plant that is always bright in the early winter months is 
Salvia splendens, even when the varied colours of the Chrysan¬ 
themum are in full favour. The present is a suitable time to 
raise a stock, either from seed or from cuttings. Either method 
is satisfactory if the treatment is carried out in a proper manner. 
Seed sown now, and grown in a gentle warmth, potted and given 
much the same attention as bush Chrysanthemums, will result in 
splendid plants suitable either for cutting or as large specimens 
for the conservatory. During the period of their growth the 
plants should be pinched to induce a bushy habit, occasionally 
assisting; them with weak manure water. The cut sprays are 
admirable for table decoration where scarlet is a favourite colour. 
Euphorbia jacquiniaeflora is another scarlet winter-flowering 
