March 21, 1903. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
255 
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The Propagation of Ferns from Spores. 
This method of propagating Ferns seems to me to be rather 
neglected and not well understood. Having been a successful 
rafser of many species and varieties of Ferns from spores, a few 
notes on this subject will, I hope, be of interest to your readers. 
During September the spores from a good many Ferns come to 
maturity, and these are best sown in November or December, 
for then the germinating spores will have gained a fair start 
in early spring. The time of sowing is not such a very important 
matter, and anyone who is not fortunate enough to have a suffi¬ 
ciently heated greenhouse at command should sow the spores in 
the spring. 
In my experience the spores sown directly they are mature 
will germinate as well, if not better, than those which are 
collected with the frond and kept in a perfectly dry place. 
The spores should be sown in the following way:—After 
thoroughly well cleaning the pots (4in. pots are most convenient), 
they should be half-filled with crocks, with rough peat placed 
over the crocks, and having loam to come to the top. This top 
soil, the pieces of which should be about the size of peas, should 
be heated very strongly or burnt so as to kill the germs of other 
organisms which will be present, and might compete too success¬ 
fully with the germinating Fern spores. 
When sowing, a place free from draughts should be selected ; 
the spores should be sown thinly, and distributed as evenly as 
possible. If the fertile frond “is removed, then it should be 
slightly tapped, causing the spores to scatter over the prepared 
pots. After sowing, each pot should be placed in a saucer of 
water and covered with a piece of glass. W ater must always 
be given by keeping the saucers supplied with water, and water¬ 
ing overhead must be avoided. These spores must be kept 
warm, close, and shaded from the hot sun. 
The first sign of germination will be that of the spores turning 
green, which with many Ferns is visible about a week after 
sowing, but varying with different Ferns and conditions. As 
growth proceeds a flat heart-shaped plate will be formed, known 
as the prothallus ; some Ferns last in this stage for months, 
Platycerium being a good example. 
When the green mass appears it should be finely divided and 
pricked off into pans or pots under similar conditions as before. 
To obtain new varieties the spores of two or more species of 
the same genus should be sown together ; by so doing there is a 
possibility of obtaining a cross, for fertilisation takes place 
after the spores have made some advance in growth. 
Herbert Cowley. 
Remarks on the Treatment of Peaches- 
It is difficult to write on any branch of gardening without 
going over at least part of the ground which some writer has 
gone over before. Besides trying to impart some little informa¬ 
tion into an article for publication, one must put interest into 
what is written, in order to attract the attention of readers. If 
we accomplish this within the allotted space, we can feel that we 
have done fairly well. It has been hinted to me lately by 
several gardeners that amongst all the different articles written 
to the “ G. W.” no one seems to take up inside fruit growing. 
Without going deeply into the subject, I venture now to give a 
few hints on the treatment which suits Peaches when they are 
coming into flower or while in flower. If not wanted to be ripe 
at a particularly early date, it is not advisable to force or hurry 
them too much ; but, unless in severe frosty weather, give plenty 
of air when the buds are swelling. In bright mornings, perhaps 
about ten o’clock, when the thermometer has risen to 58deg. or 
60deg., open the ventilators from 4in. to 6in., and never allow 
the thermometer to rise very much above 70deg., or the chances 
are that many of the flower buds may drop. If the weather keeps 
mild the ventilators can be left open until 3 or 3.30 p.m. Keep 
the night temperature as near as possible from 48deg. to 55deg. 
To assist the Peaches setting it is a common practice with some 
gardeners to go over them when in full flower with a camel’s hair 
brush. I think, however, if the wires get a sharp tap each day 
for several days in succession about the middle of the day, or 
. when there is sunshine, it serves the same purpose. I have some¬ 
times secured a good set of Peaches by simply syringing them 
across the house with a very fine rose to diffuse the pollen when 
the sun was shining. In this, as in other gardening matters, 
opinions differ, but mv idea is that some of the principal causes 
of Peach flower buds or fruit dropping are dryness at the root, 
badly ripened wood, sour or badly drained borders, and also 
watering the border with icy cold water. The latter ought 
always to be tepid, or about the temperature of the house and 
border. It is necessary to give the border a good drenching 
occasionally, but be sure the drainage is in proper working order. 
It is a mistake even in winter to allow an inside Peach border 
to get very dry. If green or black fly make their appearance, 
fumigate with XL All or MacDougall’s fumers ; they are sure 
remedies for those troublesome aphides. 
Champfleurie, Linlithgow. John- C. Dick. 
Violets for Winter Flowering. 
The cultivation of Violets to produce plenty of bloom during 
the winter months requires a good deal of care and forethought, 
and I venture to say that if the intending cultivator carefully 
follows and practises the few hints I here lay down, he will be 
amply rewarded for hi.s trouble. 
In the first place a piece of ground should be roughly dug in 
autumn, and with the application of some good wood ashes and 
horse droppings be left during winter to sweeten under the 
influence of frost and snow. A border under a north or north¬ 
east wall is, in my opinion, the most suitable place for the 
summer quarters, as they are not so liable to attacks of red 
spider as if placed in the full sunlight. About May, when the 
old plants have done flowering in the frames, they should be 
dug up with a fork. With a sharp knife sever the young 
runners from them, selecting those that have the most roots. 
This plan is, I think, preferable to dividing the old plants. The 
piece of ground they are intended to occupy should be dug over 
again, and, after being made firm, should be neatly raked over, 
when it will be ready jto receive the young plants. These 
should be placed about a foot apart, using a trowel to plant 
them with, at the same time taking care not to injure the young 
roots. When the planting is completed give a light syringing, 
and after a day or two, if the weather be dry, they should have 
a good watering with a rose can. The plants will soon begin to 
grow after this, and will throw out runners, which should be 
kept pinched back to within one leaf of the plant. If the 
summer be dry and hot frequent waterings will be necessary, 
occasionally using weak liquid manure. It is a good plan to 
syringe the plants every afternoon, which will keep them free 
from red spider, and also clean and healthy. 
When the plants are ready for lifting—about the middle of 
September—the frames they are to occupy should be washed, 
and broken glass, if any, replaced by new. A hotbed should be 
made up of long stable litter and leaves, the frames placed on 
it, and left for two or three days for tire whole to- sink down 
firmly. The soil should in the meantime be made ready, and 
should consist of two parts loam or old Cucumber bed soil, one 
part leaf mould, and one part old Mushroom bed manure, with 
the addition of a little wood ashes to keep it sweet. Mix all 
thoroughly, and fill the frames with it, leaving it a day or two 
to sink to the required level, which should be about- 5in. or 6in. 
from the glass. Care should be taken not to plant too soon 
until the heat of the bed has subsided, or the plants will flower 
and then -stand still all the winter. The plants should be care¬ 
fully lifted with a fork, taking care not to break the roots, and 
to procure a good ball of soil to each one. This is most im¬ 
portant, as much of the after -success depends upon carefulness 
at this period. Plant about 4in. apart each, way firmly, and 
not. too deep. If the soil be at all dry, give a good watering, 
and keep the frames closed for a day or two until they have 
recovered from the slight check. 
As they become used to their new quarters the lights should 
be removed oar all possible occasions, taking care only to have 
them on when the weather is foggy or frosty. Water only on 
bright mornings, so that the plants become dry before night. 
An occasional watering with liquid manure will be found very 
beneficial, and also an application of Clay’s manure about once 
a month, well watering it in. Very little water will be required 
until after the new year has passed, when as the sun increases 
in power they will be found to require more, and the lights 
removed altogether, except on frosty nights. The Violet detests 
coddling ; therefore always remember to give them all the air 
possible. 
As to varieties, there are now many on the market, but in 
the double section the old Marie Louise will be found hard to 
