264 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
March 28, 1903. 
WORK OF THE WEEK. 
Fruits under Glass. 
Early Peach House.'—Continue to heel or tie in young shoots 
for next season’s, fruiting, avoiding anything approaching a 
crowded state of foliage; and should there beany shoots devoid 
of fruit they should be cut back to make room for this year’s 
wood, pinching to the second leaf any shoots suitable to form 
spurs.. Gradually reduce the number of fruits to. about 12 in. 
or 15 in. apart, reserving the largest and those best situated 
for the crop. This also applies to the larger-fruited Nectarines, 
such as Lord Napier, Violetta Ha,five or Livers’ Early, though 
the gardener must be guided by the health and vigour of each 
tree', bearing in mind that heavy crops have a far more detri¬ 
mental effect, on early forced trees than those brought along 
quietly. Do not hurry them while stoning, which takes from 
four to six weeks, a night temperature of 55 deg. to 58 deg. 
being the safest for them while in this 1 stage, rising to 70 deg. 
oi- 80 deg. with sun heat, and on sunny days syringe the trees 
twice a day, not later than 3 p.m., so, that the foliage may get 
nearly dry before night. Test the border, and if found any 
way nearly diy, afford a thorough watering, using diluted 
drainings from the farmyard, if at hand, or a, thin scattering 
of Thompson’s or Le Fr uitier, and passing a, garden rake over 
the border before putting on the water, which should be warmed 
to about 70 deg. 
Succession houses must have attention in thinning down, the 
shoots, as stated in a previous calendar, keeping a sharp lookout 
for aphis, fumigating with XL All on its first appearance, or 
syringe with quassia, extract, a pint diluted in 4 gallons of 
water, putting it, on about 4 p.m., and a, thorough washing with 
clean water next morning. Trees in unheated houses will by 
this have passed out of flower, and the syringe may be brought 
into use daily now, closing from 3.30 to 4 p.m., gradually re¬ 
ducing superfluous shoots, also fruits. Those on the under sides 
of the front trellis should be the first to come off. Peach 
borders, well drained, cannot well have too much water at the 
root when in active growth, and 1 make it a, practice to always 
leave a, chink of ventilation at the apex of the house from the 
time it is started, early and late houses alike. 
Cherries.—This fruit requires even more care than the Peach 
until stoning has passed, 55 deg. a,t night being ample, advanc¬ 
ing to 70 deg. or 80 deg. with full ventilation in bright weather, 
and when the fruit begins to. colour an extra, 5 deg. at, night 
will do no harm, reaching 80 deg. at midday with sun heat. 
Trees in pots need examining several times daily in bright 
weather, seeing they do not suffer for want of water, assisting 
with a stimulant until the fruit begins to colour, when en¬ 
deavour to keep a drier atmosphere, though the trees, must 
not be neglected at the root. Fumigate a night or two in 
succession for aphis, which all Cherries are so sub ject to. Thin¬ 
ning of the fruit is at times necessary when thickly set. 
The Orchard House.—Apricots, Plums, Pears, etc., in pots or 
tubs require careful management; more or less, thinning of the 
shoots and fruit is equally as, important as with planted-out. 
trees, or a mass of ill-ripened shoots will be the result later on. 
Guarding against cold, cutting winds during the next few 
weeks, husbanding the sun from 4 p.m., and thus dispensing 
with artificial heat as much as possible, syringing the stone 
fruits twice daily in bright weather, and pinching the side- 
shoots as, practised outdoors, are also applicable here. Give 
air early in the morning before the sun gets a chance to, raise 
too high a temperature, leaving a little top and bottom ven¬ 
tilation at all times. Attend to the watering of the trees in 
pots, as in the case of Cherries. 
Vineries.—Thinning of the fruit, or rather bunches, must 
be undertaken within a very few days after the berries are set, 
pinching all laterals- at the first leaf just before they come into- 
flower, and then no stopping will be required until they have 
set. Disbud succession houses as soon a,s the bunches' can 
be seen, and any young canes that may have been trained 
horizontally with a view of breaking better backward should 
be tied in position before ‘too far advanced. Late vineries 
should be closed now, and will require no fire' heat for some 
time yet; syringe the rods each side twice daily, and close about 
3 p.m. on bright days. James Mayne. 
Bicton, Devonshire. 
Among the Orchids. 
East Indian House Orchids.—It is remarkable to note, and 
still more difficult to> account for, the neglect, altogether of this 
class of Orchids, compared with the number of varieties that 
were m general cultivation a few years ago. Amides in par¬ 
ticular. It was the pride of young men engaged in the worn 
oi the Orchid departments ot some oi oui big nurseries to be 
able, toi discern and distinguish the whole of this section when 
the plants were not in flavour. Now, methinks, we should 
wander a long way before we could find many engaged in 
Orchid work who would be able to- identify a half-dozen of the 
commoner kinds still to- be found in cultivation. Saccolabiums 
are rarely seen doing well outside places where there is any 
attempt to- cultivate Orchids, so discarded and uninteresting 
have they become to the Orchid specialist of to-day. 
The same remarks may be, applied to Vandas, which are 
among the most attractive plants in the Orchid tribe when out 
of flower. The graceful habit of the foliage in well-grown 
specimens is always attractive, even when included among a 
collection of highly-coloured stove plants. Vandas also are re¬ 
markable for their free-flowering characteristics, and where 
they are grown to any extent there is rarely a season of the 
year but that we find some plant with a raceme of flowers. 
Although too highly perfumed, perhaps, to be used for cut- 
flower purposes, the flowers last a long time in perfection, and 
the plants, when in flower, are useful for exhibition puiposes. 
Angraecums 1 , and the lovely Renantheras are now rarely seen, 
and they will soon become known only in the name of plants 
that have been in cultivation. When one thinks of the pro¬ 
minence this class of plants held at exhibitions some fifteen to 
twenty years ago, it becomes a cause of wonder what will be 
the favourite subjects when the more showy classes have passed 
the public taste. 
These plants are not all difficult subjects to manage. Most 
of them require repotting once a, year, which is best done in 
the early spring, as soon as the plants show signs of renewed 
vitality. Where the plants require turning out of the pots 
owing to their having outgrown, or by the loss' of the lower 
leaves, they have become leggy and need shortening to bring 
them within reach of the compost in the pots. The roots must 
be carefully removed from the side of the pots or other object 
to- which their roots have become attached. If first damped, 
the passing of a thin blade of a knife generally removes them 
without injuiy. The old compost should be cleared away from 
those plants- where top-dressing only is needed, and replaced 
with ample drainage and a compost of one part leaf soil to two 
parts chopped sphagnum moss. Press the compost moderately 
firm. When repotting, a stick sufficiently strong to- secure the 
plant in position should be attached to- the stem before placing 
the plant in the pot. If this is done, the drainage and compost 
which is placed in the pot afterwards will help to hold the 
stick imposition. 
Water with rain-water, giving sufficient- to- thoroughly wet 
the petting compost through ; veiy little watering more than 
is afforded by frequently syringing among the- plants on bright 
days will be necessary.' Shade from the direct rays of the sun, 
and keep a close, moist atmosphere, with a temperature of not 
less than 65 deg. at night, rising with sun-heat during the day 
to 75 deg. Care should be observed to prevent direct draughts 
from the ventilators coming in contact with the plants. The 
lower ventilators only should be used, and when cold winds 
prevail only those to- the le'eward should be opened. It is a 
much better plan to allow a few degrees rise in the' temperature 
than to take risks by opening the ventilators too, freely during 
unfavourable conditions outside. H. J. 
