October 10, 1903. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
845 
or C. Boxalli as one of its parents used in their production, may¬ 
be grown here with every: success; also C. gerffiinyanuin, C. 
godseffianum, and others of the hirsutissimum section. Many 
of the hybrids derived from the influence of C. spicerianum also 
are suitable subjects for cultivation in this division. H. J. 
Fruit under Glass. 
The Fig. —Where pot-trees supply the first fruits, and only 
top-dressing given last year, the trees: should be taken out of 
the pots and given similar treatment, as advocated for orchard 
house trees in my calendar for September 26th. The Fig 
enjoys good turfy loam, with the addition of mortar rubble, and 
a little bone-meal, potting firm and allowing ample space for 
■watering. Maintain full ventilation to permanent trees 
planted out, affording water at the root when the border shows 
the least signs of dryness. 
Vfinr ies. — Vines from which the fruit has been cut, and 
have not given satisfaction as to finishing its crop, should re- 
ceive attention at the root about this date. It may he that 
the. border is at fault, either the soil got unsuitable to the 
roots, or that the latter have gone beyond the drainage and 
penetrated into a bad subsoil there, which usually means 
shanked Grapes. In either case drastic treatment becomes 
absolutely necessary, and means the entire renovation of the 
border, and where the Vines have an inside and outside border 
as well the former should be tackled first, leaving the outside 
one for another year at least. Commence at the extreme 
width of the root-run, working away all the old soil with the 
garden fork, carefully preserving any fibrous roots until the 
drainage is reached, continuing this operation, right up to. the 
front wall, where the Vines were planted. If concreting the 
bottom is considered necessary remove the drainage, returning 
it again 1 after the former has been done, first making sure all 
surplus wafer has an outlet, and that the drain pipeai are quite 
clear. 
While this work is being carried out the roots of the Vines 
should have been covered with mats or sacking, and kept con¬ 
stantly moist with the syringe, and in the meantime fresh 
compost should have been prepared, fresh-cut fibrous: loam 
forming the staple or major part.; the other quarter may consist 
of lumpy charcoal or broken brick, lime, rubble, or plaster, and 
half-inch bones thoroughly blended, and not used in a. wet state. 
After the drainage has been put right place fresh cut turves, 
3 in. or 4 in. thick, grass side downwards', all over the 
bottom, and then get the compost in, making it quite firm as 
the work proceeds, laying out at their full length all healthy 
roots, and keeping the same as: near the surface as it is con¬ 
venient to do, finishing off with 6 in. of soil on. the top. Keep, 
the structure closed for ten days or so\ the foliage syringed 
several times daily, and the Vinesi shaded, if veiy bright, and 
applv water at the root at the end of that time. Delay pruning 
the Vines for a. couple of months, or even more if possible, and 
crop lightly next season. Naturally such Vines ought not to 
be forced, but allowed to come along gradually. 
The earliest forced Vines: may have the laterals shortened 
back to within 8 in. or 9 in., where they will be pruned in a 
few weeks’ time. Vines having fruit hanging must be well ven¬ 
tilated during bright days, and no more fire heat employed than 
is really necessary to dispel damp, rather prevalent this 
autumn with so many wet. days. Examine the bunches twice a 
week for any decaying berries, as they soon contaminate their 
neighbours if left. long. The latest Grapes should be fully ripet 
by this, though the berries will add sweetness for another few 
weeks, especially Lady Downes and Mrs. Pince. Keep these 
houses a.s diy as possible. I mean no unnecessarv spilling of 
water, but do not. let the borders get any way dry, or shrivelling 
will take place. 
Now the wasps are gone the material put up for the exclusion 
of these may be removed, and should birds: be prone to: sam¬ 
pling the fruit, nets must be erected top and front to keep them 
at hay, the little robin being a nuisance always in thb respect, 
Bicton, Devonshire, James Mayne, 
Notes on Hardy Plants, 
Spring Bedding. — Where preparations have to be made for 
a display of bloom next spring it will be advisable to. lift the 
plants which have done duty throughout the summer as early 
as possible. The soil should then be dug and the beds made 
ready to' receive the plants. These will include such as Myosotis, 
Wallflowers, Polyanthus, Aubretias, spring flowering Phloxes, 
Arabis, especially the double variety, A. albida plena, which 
is very effective used in this way, Primroses:, etc. Any surplus 
plants which are not required in the beds can be placed about 
in the shrubberies or flower-borders, where they have a veiy 
pleasing effect, Myosotis especially, and if planted in good 
patches by the side of water or in a damp spot these will 
succeed admirably. 
Digitalis.— Those which were sewn in. a spare part of the 
garden, as before advised, should now be ready to. plant out, 
the sooner the better, so that they become well established 
before winter. These succeed very well in the shrubberies, 
but undoubtedly the best place for them is on the. edge of 
the woodland, by the side of woodland walks, etc., their tall, 
stately spikes them being seen to the best advantage. They 
should be lifted with good balls of earth, planted firmly, and 
not close together, so that they will be enabled to develop 
properly. In many districts these seed freely, and quickly 
become naturalised, and are seen to the best advantage in this 
way. 
An onion r fulgens.— This and its varieties are some of the 
most beautiful of early flowering bulbs, and to. obtain a. display 
of bloom early next spring the bulbs should now be planted. 
A good, deep-, sandy soil suits: them to perfection ; this should 
be deeply dug, and the bulbs planted about 4 in. deep. A 
succession of bloom can be kept up by making several plant¬ 
ings between now and late autumn, allowing a. few days be¬ 
tween each. 
Montbretias. - Where these have finished flowering and the 
foliage has turned yellow they may be lifted and boxed up for 
the winter. The leaves and stems: should be cut off 3 in. or 
4 in. above the bulbs, and the latter placed fairly close together. 
The boxes should be well crocked, and a good open soil used, a 
sandy loam being preferable to any other. Stand on a ballast 
or similar place, so that they can be sheltered from heavy rains 
in winter, as the soil should be kept just moist and not allowed 
to. become saddened with water. I am fully convinced that 
better results are obtained by taking the bulbs up every 
autumn and treating in. this way than if left in. the ground all 
the winter. 
Liliums.— Between now and the end of the month is a. good 
time for planting many Liliums which succeed in the open 
borders, but it is advisable to get them in as early as possible, 
as many failures are attributed to planting too late in the year. 
Those which we find succeed best among shrubs and herba¬ 
ceous plants are the varieties of L. aura.tum, L. tigrinum splen- 
dens., L. chalcedonicum, L. ca.ndidum, L. pcmponium, L. cali- 
fornicum, and several of the L. elegans varieties. When plant¬ 
ing a good hole should be: taken out if the soil is unsuitable, 
and a mixture of leaf-soil, sand and peat added. Generally 
speaking, the bulbs should be planted three times their own 
depth in the ground, and when once established can be left 
to themselves, as they resent being disturbed. Such a place 
as in the Rhododendron, Andromeda or Azalea, beds is an. ideal 
spot for many Liliums, a.s: the soil suits them well, and the 
young growths are protected from late spring frosts. 
English and Spanish Iris —For cutting purposes these two 
groups: are almost invaluable, there ■ being a great variety of 
colour, and they succeed in the majority of ! soils. The English 
Irises are especially fine for border decoration, being taller 
and flowering after the| Spanish varieties, but both should now 
be got in without delay. Although they succeed in many soils, 
it should be well drained and porous if possible, as these Irises, 
like Narcissus, are not satisfactory if subjected to too much 
wet in winter, so that, the positions should be well selected 
before planting. A. E- Thatchek. 
Aldenham House Gardens, Elstree, 
