May 16, 1903. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
431 
READERS’ COMPETITION. 
For details of this competition and prize offered, please 
see page 427. Please post on Friday night. 
Hints on Raising Seedlings. 
The following will be found an excellent method of raising 
seed 1 ings. It is very simple, as most valuable things are. In 
preparing seed pans or seed boxes see that they are dry and clean, 
and the drainage efficient, over which should be placed some 
fibrous loam, then put down a layer of good sandy loam, run 
through a half-inch sieve, and patted down moderately firm. 
Over this place about one-fourth of an inch of dried sphagnum or 
common peat moss, such as is used for packing (thoroughly 
dried), and run through a wire sieve about as fine as a mosquito 
wire gauge, this powdered moss, about in the condition of fine 
sawdust, being evenly spread. Upon this moss is placed, about 
three-fourths of an inch thick, a compost consisting of three- 
fourths loam and one-fourth sharp sand, well mixed together. 
Make it level, and sow the seed thinly on the compost, press 
down with a smooth board, and sift on sufficient fine moss to 
cover the seed, watering the whole with a fine rose. The top 
layer of moss keeps the surface always moist, preventing all dry¬ 
ing and baking, and allows the young plants to easily reach the 
light. The layer of soil below it affords nourishment to the 
seedlings, which, as soon as their roots reach the layer of fine 
moss below, form a mass of fibrous roots. No one familiar with 
the raising of seedlings need have the advantages of this method 
pointed out to them. W. E. E. 
Caladiums. 
Amongst the various kinds of ornamental stove foliage plants 
there are few that rank higher for general diversity of colour, 
effectiveness, etc., than Caladiums, and a houseful of these 
charming plants, well grown and tastefully arranged, are indeed 
a pleasure to look upon. 
To begin with their culture, I will presume the plants are 
lying dried off in their winter quarters about the middle of 
March. The tubers should be carefully shaken out of their old 
pots, and each tuber that is of any size should be potted up 
singly, unless large plants are desired, when two or three may 
be placed in one pot. A suitable compost consists of two parts 
fibrous loam, one part peat, and one part well rotted leaf soil 
and dried cow manure, with a good dash of sand and half-inch 
charcoal. This will be found to suit them admirably at all stages 
of potting. A suitable sized pot for the first potting will be a 
four or five inch, according to the size of the tuber to be potted. 
I do not believe in over potting for a start; rather better to pot 
on again during growth, when much finer specimens are thereby 
attained. After selecting the finest tubers, if an increase of stock 
or any one particular variety be wanted, the smaller bulbs may 
be potted into 60-sized pots, and grown on, when they make 
good plants for next season. The pots in the first place should 
be well drained, and a piece of rough turf placed over the crocks. 
This is a most important point with all pots intended for stove 
plants, because they require an abundance of water during the 
summer, and anything approaching stagnation at the root system 
means failure and disappointment. 
To return to my subject. A little of the soil should be placed 
in the pot, and the tuber inserted on the top ; after that fill the 
pot up, and firmly press down the soil all round, leaving just the 
top of the bulb showing, and giving a light sprinkling of sand to 
finish it off. Each variety should be correctly labelled, and 
lightly watered in. In the case of any very delicate varieties, a 
little more charcoal should be added to the soil, and, if thought 
necessary, a little extra peat or leaf soil will lighten the compost. 
When the plants become well rooted they may be afforded weak 
manure-water about twice a week. They should not be allowed 
to become pot-bound, and therefore, when the pots are nicely 
filled with roots, they may be potted on into pots two sizes lai'ger, 
using the same soil as before advised, only in a somewhat 
rougher state. 
Great care must be taken with The plants at this period, as the 
growths are liable to get damaged if not carefully handled. 
Water in carefully when finished, and shade from bright sun¬ 
shine, or the plants will flag. During the early spring the plants 
should not be shaded too much, or they will not develop then- 
real colours, but during the summer time they will require to be 
shaded more, as they are apt to scorch. The house they are grow- 
mg in should be kept well moist, and the stage they occupy 
should be syringed twice or three times a day. I do not advocate 
s) ringing them overhead too much, as it causes the leaves to 
damp, and consequently holes appear in them, which are any¬ 
thing but beautiful. If fly should appear on the growths the 
house should be lightly fumigated for two nights. The Caladium 
throws up a sort of flower spike which is insignificant, and of 
little value, and should be pinched out as soon as it appears, or 
it will weaken the growth of the plant. After the plants are 
potted finally, and become well rooted, they may receive a top¬ 
dressing of some good soil, with a little artificial manure mixed 
with it, pressing it down firmly with a rammer, and watering well 
in. There are too many varieties for me to mention here, but 
good collections, staged by some of the leading nurserymen and 
private growers, are often seen at summer flower shows, and it is 
best to see them and choose for oneself. If this is not alwavs 
jiracticable, consult a reliable catalogue, of which there are 
several now almost entirely devoted to this class of plants. 
I may add that when the plants are in full growth they should 
be allowed plenty of room between each. If allowed to become 
thick they lose much of their beauty as ornamental plants, and 
do not develop such fine foliage, wherein lies their chief value. 
They look extremely well if associated with Adiantums, the light 
green foliage of the Fern making a good contrast to the brilliant 
colours of the leaves. 1 he plants should be dried off gradually 
and the foliage allowed to decay naturally, by no means pulling 
it off before it is quite ready to come. The pots should be laid on 
their sides under the stage during the winter months, occa¬ 
sionally examining them in case they become shrivelled, which 
they will sometimes be found to. In such a case give them a 
good soaking, and lay them down again to dry off. They should 
never be allowed to become parched. R. Thatches. 
AVistow Gardens, Leicester. 
Sweet Peas in Pots 
Growers of Sweet Peas, who sow a batch in jiots for planting in 
the mixed borders, etc., would be well paid for the trouble of 
giving them a shift into larger pots, and growing them on as pot 
plants for conservatory and house decoration. From five to seven 
seeds in a pot is sufficient, and supposing them now to be well 
hardened off and ready to be transferred in clumps to the mixed 
borders, select a few, pot (if named varieties one or two' of each), 
and give them a shift into an 8-inch pot, using a compost con¬ 
sisting chiefly of loam of rather a heavy nature, with the addi¬ 
tion of some well decomposed cow manure. These pots should 
be used clean. Crock sparingly, but effectually, using some of 
the rough parts of the compost to cover the crocks. In potting 
use a potting stick, such as used for Chrysanthemums, etc., 
ramming very firm without damaging the roots. 
About five twigs from old garden brooms, placed neatly round 
the plants, will keep them together for some weeks, when larger 
sticks will be required. Stand the pots in the open, where they 
get the full benefit of the sun. It is best to place them in a row, 
running from north to south, on a good ash bottom ; the ashes 
tend to keep the roots cool during hot dry weather. When the 
pots become filled with roots feeding will be necessary. There 
are many fertilisers now on the market, and most gardeners have 
one to swear by. Commence by using weak applications, in¬ 
creasing the quantity as the plants get able to take it. Occa¬ 
sionally give them manure water, also soot water. Like 
Chrysanthemums, the Sweet Pea enjoys a change' of diet. 
As growth proceeds neat sticks will be required. Give the 
growths plenty of room, tying them out where necessary to let in 
air and sunshine. 
Aphides sometimes are very troublesome, and should be 
promptly got rid of at their first appearance. Syringing with 
quassia solution is a good remedy. As the flowers begin°to age 
and show signs of fertilisation they should be cut off. Growxii 
will terminate if these are allowed to remain. Fine specimens 
can be obtained by the foregoing treatment, remaining in flower 
for a long period. For grouping they are most useful, and 
should be grown by all who have to keep a regular supply of 
flowering plants for that purpose. Appended are a few varieties, 
which I find well adapted for the purpose:—Blanche Burpee, 
Venus, Lady Mary Currie, Salopian, Lady Grisel Hamilton, Cap¬ 
tain of the Blues, Black Knight. H. W. C. 
Blackheath. 
How to Procure Early Strawberries Outside. 
Gardeners, or amateurs who may wish to have fine, large 
early Strawberries for table, ought always to have a few specially 
prepared beds of the best early sorts coming on to produce them. 
Royal Sovereign is still one of the very best sorts for this purpose. 
Another splendid sort, although an old variety, is Garibaldi, 
which has both a good flavour and colour, and is not quite so 
