438 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
May 23, 1 ^ 63 . 
WORK OF THE WEEK. 
Notes on Hardy Herbaceous Plants. 
Carnations and Picotees.—Those which were planted out 
as previously advised will now need staking without delay, and 
for this purpose a very neat stake will be found in the pruning® 
from \Y illows, those about as thick as the little finger being 
sufficiently strong. These should be placed firmly in. the 
ground, and the tops cut off with a knife or secateurs, all to 
the same level. Tie up the longest growths loosely with bast 
SO' that the flower-stems do not curve or buckle, and be on the 
watch for greenfly or other insect pests. Should these make 
their appearance, give a light dusting of tobacco' powder, which 
will soon eradicate them, for, if allowed to go unchecked, they 
will quickly work considerable havoc with the young shoots. 
Wireworms are particularly fond of these plants, and to catch 
them some pieces of Carrot should be placed about in. the bed 
and examined every day. Give a good soaking of weak soot- 
water and stir the surface soil occasionally with the Dutch 
hoe, and if any failures have occurred these can be made good 
with plants reserved in pots or from the stock bed. 
Tropaeolmn speciosnm,—This delightful hardy plant is 
worthy of more attention than it generally receives. Though 
it grows to perfection in many parts of Scotland, it is rarely 
met with so 1 far south as this at its best, but I know isolated 
places not far from here where it. thrives luxuriantly, and pro¬ 
duces a wealth of its lovely scarlet blossoms in great profusion. 
It enjoys a, moist, shady position, and no pains should be 
spared to include it in eveiy collection, of hardy plants'. When 
once it become® established it should be disturbed as little as 
possible, but an annual dressing of leaf-soil and sand should 
be given. In the young stages of growth slues are particularly 
fond of it, and unless means are taken to prevent their ravages 
they will quickly make short work of the tender shoots. Im¬ 
mediately the young growths show themselves above the 
ground supports should be given, and for this purpose there 
is nothing better than twiggy branches of Nut Hazels', which 
should not be too tightly bunched together, but so inserted 
as to form a. natural and pleasing appearance. 
Violas.— The flowers which are appearing on these should be 
kept picked off so as to induce them to make a. free growth, 
and they will also need pegging down. For this purpose' pegs 
can be made cut of old Birch brooms or bracken, which will 
answer quite as effectively as wire pins. Keep, the soil well 
stirred, and give good soakings of water, should the weather 
be dry and warm, as these enjoy plenty of moisture. 
Summer-flowering Chrysanthemums.—These should now be 
staked, and, to produce the best effect, the shoots should be 
tied out singly, removing any weak or sickly ones. Willow 
sticks, similar to those advised for Carnations, will also answer 
admirably for these. Pinch out. the tops of the growths, so 
as to induce them to break freely and make good bushy plants, 
and if any insect pests are in evidence give a dusting of 
tobacco powder, and, to make this thoroughly effective, repeat 
the operation in a few days. 
Penstemons.—It will be advisable to look through these and 
see if the frost has so> damaged any that a break will occur in 
the border. If so, fill \q:> with reserved plants, but though the 
tops may appear quite dead the plants will in most cases 
break strongly from the bottom. Place one neat stake to each 
and loosen the soil about them with the Dutch lioe. 
The Herbaceous Borders.—Much work will have to be done 
now by way of staking the plants, many of which will need 
supporting, and, as before stated, tie them out as naturally a® 
possible. The smaller shoots of Phloxes and the like can be 
thinned out, leaving only the best and strongest, which will 
make a considerable difference to the. flowering qualities. 
Weeds grow apace at this season, and must be kept down by 
freemen t hoeings. 
Seeds.—Several sorts will now have to be got in without 
delay. Digitalis should be sown in shallow drills 9 in. apart, 
or broadcast. These are especially suitable for woodland 
w»P- 3j aS; when once established, they quickly sow themselves 
and become naturalised. The best varieties are the dark red 
and spotted. 
Sweet Violets.—Now is a. capital time to divide and replant 
these. They should be planted in rows 1 ft, apart each way 
in some well-prepared soil, and on heavy land plenty of road 
sand and leaf soil should be worked in. These enjoy a cool 
shady situation during the summer months. 
A. E. Thatcher. 
Aldenham House Gul dens, Elstree. 
Fruit under Glass. 
Strawberries.—The latest batch will be swelling up its 
fruit, and should be assisted with weak manurial waterings 
daily. These plants will finish off their crop better in pits or 
even frames now the weather is warmer, providing no. drip is 
allowed to reach them; and see that mice do not molest the 
fruit, or they veiy soon spoil the lot. Afford free ventilation 
when colouring, discontinuing stimulants as they reach that 
stage. President, Leader, and Sir Joseph Paxton are satis¬ 
factory for late supplies, and the cooler they are brought on 
until after the flowers are set, the better the crop. 
Earliest Peaches.—Varieties such as Hale’s Early, Arnsden 
June, and Waterloo, will be reaching maturity without much 
hard forcing, arid should have abundance of ventilation top 
and bottom during warm days, regulating the amount accord¬ 
ing to external conditions, leaving the ventilators slightly open 
during the night. Discontinue the use of the syringe until 
the. crop has been cleared, and if water at the root is con¬ 
sidered requisite, let the same! be undiluted ; and though less 
water is- required when, the fruit isi about ripe, the trees must 
on no account suffer for the want of it. Especially is this the 
case with fruitrtrees in pots. Cardinal and Early Rivers Nec¬ 
tarines are the first, to ripen, and should not be syringed too 
near that point., as sometimes the fruits are prone to crack and 
are soon spoilt. 
Second House.—Keep the shoots tied to the trellis, and 
expose the fruit to all the. sun possible, and as soon as they 
take on the second swelling the night temperature may range 
from 60 deg. to 65 deg., advancing to. 80 deg. or even 85 deg. 
on very bright days, with full ventilation, closing from 2.30 to 
3.30 p.m., according to. aspect, of house, well syringing the trees 
each way morning and afternoon, now the days are longer, and 
should, by the time these line® get. into print, be very much 
warmer than at the time of. penning them. 
Later Houses.—Avoid pushing these on too. quickly if a 
succession is required, as the fruit ripens much more quickly 
now than even a month back, while, where it is expedient to 
have Peaches 1 and Nectarines under glass a® late a® possible 
the houses must be fully ventilated throughout the day, with 
a medium amount during the night. Apply thorough water¬ 
ings every third or fourth week, scattering a little artificial 
and raking it. in beforehand or diluted drainings from the 
farmyard. Keep growths tied in and the trees hosed or syringed 
as in the case of earlier houses, and the final thinning of the 
fruit, finished as soon as possible, which should stand 8 in. or 
10 in. asunder as an average crop, these later trees being 
capable of finishing up heavier crops than, the early-forced 
ones. 
Late Grapes.—Commence the thinning of the berries soon 
after setting of such varieties as Alicante®, Lady Downes, Gros 
Colman, Gros Marne, Lady Hurt, and Appley Towers, the two 
last-named grand Grapes, and comparatively new ; the latter 
an excellent keeper and finishing up well. Muscat of Alex¬ 
andria, as well as Mrs. Pinoe, should be moderately thinned, at 
first cutting out all the smaller berries, the s ton el ess fruit being 
easily detected by a practical hand. Attend to the ventilatin' 1, 
of all fruit-houses before the temperature there is unduly raised 
by the sun, and those facing east must be the first dealt with, 
or scorching soon takes place, between 6 and 7 a.m. being none 
too early on bright mornings. Unless the nlace is addicted to 
red spider — and I have known some — the Vine® should not be 
syringed overhead after coming into flower, or that fine bloom 
so much coveted by most cultivators will be absent; but during 
