June (ij 1903, 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
495 
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Suitable Plants for Margins of Lakes, Lawns, 
Drives, etc. 
The demand for informal groups of plants, of a. bold and, at 
the same time, graceful appearance, is great nowadays, and as 
this is the proper season for planting some of them (the 
Bamboos, for 'instance), a few words on the subject can hardly 
be out of place. 
Travelling from one situation to another, one frequently sees 
things done here that would not be thought of there, and the 
style of work in one locality is sometimes laughed at in another. 
Still, I think I may venture to say that carpet and geometrical 
bedding, if not declining in popularity, is no farther advanced 
than it was 10 years ago, while, on the other hand, herbaceous 
borders, sub-tropical beds, and grouping of Conifers, etc., have 
taken a firm hold on the affections of garden lovers of to-day, 
and it is a matter for congratulation that this state of things 
seems likely to continue, for what a wealth of material we have 
to work with, and what fine effects can be obtained ! 
A group of Bamboos on the margin of a lake, backed up bv 
forest trees in the distance, has only to be seen to be admired. 
For such positions the taller species only should be used. 
Phyllostachys mitis, P. aurea, P. nigra, and Arundinaria 
Simoni are about the best, while for irregular-shaped beds, on 
lawns or drives Arundinaria Simoni may take the central place, 
with A. japonica and A. palmata about it, edging up with 
Bambusa Nagasbima, B. disticha, and Apera arundinacea or 
Eulalia japonica, these last-named plants giving a graceful 
finish to an otherwise rather stiff group. If single specimens 
only are wanted, Arundinaria Simoni should be planted. 
Oortaderia argentea is a grand plant in any position. It has 
a fine appearance in a bed with Tritomas, T. uvaria grandiflora, 
and T. nobilis, being about the best for the purpose, edging 
up with T. Macowani and T. corallina. The latter plant needs 
protection during winter, as frequent thawing rots it. Spruce 
branches are best. 
Herbaceous and tree Paeonies, Inula Hookerii, Bocconia 
cordata, Papaver orientale, Cephalaria tartarica, Gunnera 
scabra, Spiraeas, Acanthus mollis, and species of Rhus, with 
their brilliant-coloured foliage in the autumn, all make fine 
groups. 
All the plants here mentioned are easily propagated, either 
by division or layers ; all like liberal treatment ; and if they 
are planted rather close immediate effect can be obtained, 
thinning out as required. H.. Arnold. 
The Cultivation of the Culinary Pea. 
The Pea does best on a well-aired, sweet soil, sun and air 
having a great deal to do with the yield. The roots of the Pea 
are very tender when in a young state, therefore we should 
treat them carefully. In a cold clay soil the roots are liable 
to get chilled when they come out of the seed, and die. A good 
method is to make a trench 6in. wide and 22 in. deep. Put in 
the bottom half an inch of dry sand or dry soil, with some sifted 
ashes. Sow the Peas, on that. As they grow a little the roots 
go into this compost freely, and get strong before they touch 
the cold clay soil. The Pea is fond of lime ; on a cold clay soil 
lib. quicklime to the square yard. Potash on sandy soils in 
the form of kainit, 2oz. to the square yard, increases the yield. 
Mineral superphosphate, mixed with washing soda, 71bs. of the 
former to lib. of the latter, loz. to the running yard. Before 
sowing Peas it is best to mix lg teaspoonful of red lead, with 
a little oil, and mix with the Peas, as this mixture is dis¬ 
tasteful to all vermin. We should sow thin and evenly, not 
to overcrowd the plants. When the Peas are above ground ^oz. 
of nitrate of soda or saltpetre and washing' it down with waiter 
is a good stimulant, also loz. of soot to the running yard, 
applied either when the ground is dry or when it is wet,’ so 
that the soot does not lie on the leaves to injure them ; the 
soot is preferable in a cold, wet season. 
Peas are best staked as soon as possible, as the young tendrils 
like something to cling to. Staking early shelters the Peas and 
keeps them warm. Before doing so we should draw the soil 
up to the Peas in a ridge ; it shelters them from the wind and 
steadies them. We should always keep the soil well stirred 
about the rows to admit as much air as possible into the soil. 
It will also help to keep out drought, as the Peas like moisture. 
A mulch of litter, straw, or brackens keeps the soil moist, ..and 
also helps to keep down mildew, which is very troublesome in 
dry weather. As regards distance between rows; 16ft. if ground 
is at command, as we find we get a larger yield. 
The ground between can be cropped with any vegetable. 
Birds are troublesome in most cases to the Pea. A stick fixed 
at both ends of the rows, and fine black thread lined along, 
scares them away. A. McPherson, 
The Pests of the Tuberous Rooted Begonia. 
Although the tuberous Begonia is considered a clean plant, 
yet under some conditions it is subjected to various pests. 
Green fly will trouble, the grower. It can easily be detected by 
the curling of the foliage. Richards’ XL All fumigating liquid 
will quickly rid the plants' of this enemy ; but they should not 
be allowed to get a footing ; the plants are soon ruined by them. 
Thrips will sometimes attack them. But their presence would 
be duei to keeping the plants in too dry an atmosphere. Thrips 
very rarely makes its appearance if the structure in which the 
plants are growing is kept in a moist condition by irrigating, 
and the frequent use of the syringe will keep them down. 
The most dreaded of pests that the Begonia grower has to con¬ 
tend with is known as rust. This is very destructive. I have 
seen a whole collection ruined by its ravages, so much so that the 
only remedy was to consign them to the fire, and to well clean 
the house. As to the cause of this pest, there is much diversity 
of opinion. I myself believe that the main cause is subjecting 
the plants to draught. But no doubt other conditions are 
favourable to the growth of it. • 
Rust, as it is called, is a fungoid growth, which spreads 
very rapidly under the skin of the leaves and growth of the 
plants, causing a brown rusty appearance. [It is due to a mite. 
—Ed.] 
Bad cultivation, with erratic watering, at times too wet, others 
too dry, ventilating the house at random, airing in such a way 
as to cause a draught, also keeping the house in too dry a con¬ 
dition. Plants that stand upon an open staging are more sus¬ 
ceptible to it than those standing on ashes. As soon as it 
makes its appearance it should be dealt- with. The only effectual 
remedy I know of is sulphide of potassium (liver of sulphur), 
1? oz. to three gallons of rain water, mixed over night in an 
earthen or wooden vessel. In the morning take off the scum 
from the surface, and by dipping or syringing the plants with 
this solution, the fungus can be got rid of, providing it has 
not already got the master of the plants. In such a case the 
wisest plan would be to burn them, well cleaning the house they 
have been in, and finally giving a good syringing with the 
above preparation. H. W. C. 
54. Shooter’s Hill Road, Blackheath, S.E. 
Kalanchoes. 
Of the many plants that have been newly introduced, few have 
earned such a widespread reputation as Kalanchoe flammea. 
This species is undoubtedly the best known of the Kalanchoes, 
and would be correctly described as being the most beautiful, 
although this extensive genus is composed of several beautiful 
species. 
During the past two or three years K. flammea has been 
admirably represented at the R.H.S. exhibitions, especially at 
the Temple Shows, for it is towards the latter end of May when 
it may be seen at its best. The Kalanchoe is related to the 
genus Crassula, having fleshy foliage, which gives it the appear¬ 
ance of one which would do well in dry situations ; and so it 
. is, for many of the species have been found in exceedingly dry 
and exposed places. K. flammea has been introduced from 
Somaliland, and is particularly valuable to the horticulturist 
on account of its brilliant orange-scarlet flowers, which are so 
attractive, and will remain fresh when cut for a considerable 
time. 
Among other species suited to culture under glass might be 
mentioned K. somaliensis (white), Kirkii (orange-red), and 
grandiflora (yellow). Much has already been done to improve 
and to obtain something new by hybridising, and K. kewensis 
and felthamensis are two hybrids which seem to be very pro¬ 
mising. . . 
K. kewensis is the result'from a cross between flammea and 
Bentii ; it is very striking in appearance, the flowers being of 
a soft shade of deep pink. At the last meeting of the R.H.S., 
held at the drill-hall, both K. kewensis and K. felthamensis 
were exhibited, the latter obtaining a First-class Certificate. 
This latest novelty, K. felthamensis, is a hybrid from K. flammea 
and Kirkii, and in its flower it bears a very strong resemblance 
to the pollen parent flammea. 
K. felthamensis is stronger in constitution than flammea, 
and grows earlier, the flowers being of a flame scarlet hue. 
