June IS, im 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
505 
too much of the long litter, make very firm (it is impossible 
o overdo this), spawn after a, few days when the heat is on 
ft decline place 2 in. of soil over the same, which should be 
‘ts r d '„r: cove,- ** ^ **«, ^ rz 
ttflc ted from four to sir weeks. The Uttar Aauld bake,* 
Aider,ham House Gardens, Kl,tree. 
Among the Orchids. 
Cultural Remarks. —At the present season insect pests 
become troublesome ; the cultivator has to be constantly on the 
alert to guard against attacks and prevent as far ^ possib 
iniurv to orowtli and the permanent disfigurement of the 
n uiy to S™ t t( ; contend with is yelltxw thrips. 
When once established there is none more difficult to dislo ge 
and even to succeed in keeping them m check one nee4to 
fmflv work in o' at them. The seriousness ot the trouble 
C °n ed bv the transfer of plants from sources outside our own 
collections is not realised as it should be. Amateurs especially 
should be particularly careful when purchasing plants to ascer¬ 
tain not only that the plants are perfectly clean when pur¬ 
chased but also to see that there is no indication of the plants 
“been previously attacked. Where plants have suffered 
he effect will be easily discernible by the rusty appearance on 
Z fol^eTand in the case of Cypripediums about the base and 
axils of the leaves their disfiguring influences need no second 
Si f draw particular attention to this matter, because I know 
the difficulties and the trouble which have been brought abo - 
in this way, causing many to altogether lose heart and to 
throw up all further attempts to cultivate Orchids. Fu: 0 
tiona-t regular intervals is all very well, but it would take a 
very long time before the pest could be got rid of by fumiga- 
S alone. The insects being so small, they are able to pene¬ 
trate crevices where it is well-nigh impossible for the fumes 
to reach them,, and so they escape to lay the seed of another 
generation. Dipping at frequent intervals is much more effec¬ 
tive, but the two combined will, if persevered with, ultimately 
succeed in the ridding of the pests. One cannot be too careful 
at the present season of the year. 
Red Spider.—The season, so far, has-been such as to requue 
an unusual amount of fire heat; consequently there has been 
a -certain absence of moisture from the atmosphere, which has 
rendered the conditions favourable to the spread ot this pest. 
In the cold house Masdevallias and other thick-leaved plan s 
will have suffered. In the intermediate house, Cymbidiums, 
Coelogynes, Sobralias, Lycastes, etc., are always subjects likely 
to be attacked. In the warmer divisions, the older foliage on 
the Dendrobiums, Stanhopeas, and even Vandas become 
quickly infested whenever the atmosphere becomes the least 
dry through the effect of artificial heat. 
Where they are observed, carefully wash the foliage with a 
sponge, and, where possible, freely syringe the plants for a few 
days. This will soon free the plants and prevent attacks ni 
the near future. 
Ventilation and Watering. —There is no season of the year 
when greater care is needed in applying air to the houses than 
now. The conditions being so variable outside, -and the fact of 
so many plants being in different stages of development of 
growth and flowers, an excessive use of me ventilators, espe¬ 
cially in such a manner that direct draughts would be playing 
on the plants, w T ould be most injurious. It is a far better plan 
to ventilate earlier in the day, and to allow the temperature to 
go above the normal; then to ventilate, and with a sudden 
change, causing the obscurity of the sun only for a few minutes, 
bring about a fluctuation in the temperature, which, if the 
plants were in a wet condition, would be almost certain to cause 
a chill. Care must also be taken in watering. See that the 
plants become thoroughly diy between waterings, and also that 
the water used for watering the plants should be the same as 
the normal conditions of house before it is used. H. J. 
The Stove and Greenhouse. 
Gloriosa superba. —-This is one of the most beautiful of 
stove climbers, bearing rich orange-scarlet coloured flowers in 
profusion throughout the summer and autumn. The bulbs 
should be potted in spring, using a compost of equal parts 
loam, peat, and cow manure (dry), with plenty of sharp sand 
added. It is essential to use clean pots, and they must be well 
drained. I know of no plant more impatient of stagnation 
about the roots than the Gloriosa. Excessive heat and mois¬ 
ture is not by any means necessary, as is sometimes supposed, 
to grow this plant well, excepting it be when the dormant 
bulbs are first started to ensure a quick break. Slugs are very 
fond of the young tender shoots, and it is a- good plan where 
these are known to lurk to tie a piece of cotton wool on to 
each stem Gin. from the base; slugs rarely pass over this. As 
the pots become well filled with roots a weekly application of 
liquid sheep or cow manure will be beneficial. Keep the main 
branches tied to wires a foot or thereabouts from the roof 
glass. Shade from the hottest sun, but heavy or permanent 
si lading should not be given. 
Bouvardias. —For beauty and utility these plants are unsur¬ 
passed, and as they produce their flowers in profusion during 
the winter months they are always welcome. A decade or two 
ago 1 Bouvardias were generally accorded stove treatment-, but 
since their requirements have been better understood quite as 
good results may be had by growing them quite cool. Many 
gardeners plant them out at the end of June on a rich border 
'having a warm aspect; I invariably adopt the method with 
marked success. The old plants are repotted in March or 
April, and started into growth in a genial temperature of about 
55 degrees. A suitable compost consists of equal parts loam, 
leaf soil, and decayed manure, with sand or road grit added. 
When the new growths attain 3in. in length the points are- 
pinched out to induce stocky habit, or if one wishes to increase 
the stock the cuttings may be taken off with a heel and in¬ 
serted in sandy soil and placed in the propagating frame. 
When well rooted they should be potted off singly and grown 
on freely in heat- for a couple of months, then remove to cold 
frames for the summer. These plants should flower the first 
year in the early winter, though of course not so freely as the 
older plants. At the end of June the older plants may be 
planted out in the prepared station and attended to for water 
until early September, when they should be lifted carefully 
with balls of earth attached and potted up, or if retained in 
pots throughout these may be plunged half way up in a frame. 
The latter method answers well in cold, wet districts, as then 
the lights may be kept over them to carry off excessive rains 
and for conserving warmth. Give abundance of air on all 
favourable occasions. 
Violets. -—The young plants will now be making new growth, 
and their wants as regards water, etc., must be well attended to 
from now onwards. One of the chief factors to success is fre¬ 
quent syringings to keep down that dreaded pest red spider. 
Well wet every part- of the leafage at least twice daily, and see 
that they do not become dry at the roots. Run the Dutch hoe 
through the alleys on fine dry days to kill small weeds and to 
pulverise the surface. Give weak liquid manure once or twice 
a week when growth is quite active. Iv. M. 
Hardy Fruit. 
Strawberries —From many quarters I learn that the for¬ 
ward flowers were more or less damaged by the late frosts, 
but here there was never a better prospect of a heavy crop of 
fruit than at present-, and the plants look strong and healthy. 
The net should be put on immediately the fruit begins to 
colour, or the birds will soon spoil the- look of them, — in. 
square’ mesh being the best check to these marauders; and 
where a framework 4 ft, or 5 ft, in height can be erected to 
carry the nets--, the fruit is more out of the reach of birds, and 
can be much quicker gathered. Secure the sides with a few 
