THE GARDENING WORLD 
June 20,1903. 
526 
WORK OF THE WEEK. 
The Kitchen Garden. 
The splendid rains of late have done much to improve the 
appearance of the kitchen garden crops, and providing we now 
get warmer nights and plenty of sunshine there will soon be 
an, abundance of vegetables of most kinds 1 . Unfortunately, 
everything is exceptionally late, especially Peas. The earliest 
sowing, which should now be in full bearing outside, will not 
be ready for quite a week from the time of writing with us. 
Fortunate, indeed, are those who are able to devote some space 
in cool houses or pits for the earliest supplies. These with us 
have done remarkably well, and will last till we can pick in 
the open. Pinch out the tips of the shoots of any which may 
be wanted to produce pods early, a.nd thin out, leaving only a 
few pods on each stem when required for exhibition. See that 
all the growths of strong-growing kinds are kept in an upright 
position by either tying them in separately with broad pieces 
of bast, oi' running stout, tarred cord along the rows when the 
ordinary sticks are not sufficient, and these seldom are strong 
varieties. 
Broad Beans —The later crops of these will have to be 
watched for any traces of black aphis, and means taken to 
destroy the same on the first appearance, as it increases* at 
such an alarming rate in a short time that, if allowed to go 
unchecked, the crop will be practically worthless. June and 
July are the two months when it is most troublesome. Strong 
soft soap and water, thoroughly syringed into the points, is a 
sure exterminator, and where these are much in demand, as in 
some places they are, the, season having to be prolonged as far 
as possible, this should be persisted in. Plenty of manure water 
should be given, and the growths damped over during the even¬ 
ing in hot, dry weather. Pinch out the points of the growths 
after a reasonable amount of pods are set, and thoroughly sup¬ 
port the plants with stout sticks and tarred cord, two lines 
generally being necessary. 
Potatos.—Most varieties are making a splendid growth, and 
any which are required for special purposes should have the 
haulm supported, so that sun and air can play about them. I 
have proved the value of this over and over again, and es¬ 
pecially so during wet seasons. x\ little fresh soot should be 
placed round each root—a capital stimulant for Potatos, and at 
the same time does much to help to keep the tubers clean. 
Egg Plants.—These may now have one more shift, assuming 
they are in 48’s ; 24’s will suit them well; these do very well 
in 6-in. pots, providing they are well supplied with moisture. 
The best fruits are produced in the* larger size. Good t.urfy 
loam, three parts, and one of leaf soil with a little road sand, 
will make a good mixture for them. Pot very firmly, and the 
plants may either be grown on shelves near the glass: in the 
greenhouse, or in cold frames facing south. The foliage must 
be kept well syringed, and manure water given freely after the 
pots become well filled with roots; some plant, them outside; 
but unless it happens to be an exceptionally hot season it is 
generally a failure. 
Capsicums should now be well pot-bound, and will need 
plenty of stimulants, especially when being grown in small 
pots for decorative purposes ; these will do well in cold frames 
all through the summer months. Fumigate occasionally to 
keep down green aphis, and syringe the foliage morning and 
afternoon thoroughly to -ward off attacks' of thrip and red 
spider. 
Turnips.-—Sow good beds fortnightly of Red Globe and 
Snowball. Webb’s Prizetaker, a, small green-topped variety, is' 
also an excellent kind for sowing now and onwards; the quality 
is all one can possibly desire. Keep the hoe constantly at. work 
between the young plants, and give constant slight applications 
of soot. 
Carrots. —Hoe frequently between the rows, and make now 
a good sowing of Short Horn varieties on finely-broken ground. 
Winter Greens.—Take advantage of showery weather to 
plant out these as fast as they become ready, utilising every 
piece of ground possible for the purpose. Where Peas are 
allowed plenty of room between the rows it is a capital plan 
to give the plants a start between these; especially is this 
position suited for all the Broccolis or Kales. The holes are 
best made with iron bars, and, where the ground is given to 
clubbing, fill in with fine cinder ashes—a good remedy for this 
—and, providing the Peas are removed immediately they are 
over, and the ground pointed over, the Greens will have bene¬ 
fited rather than, otherwise. Look over early plantings of 
autumn Cauliflowers, and replace any whici have gone blind, 
and continue to plant, later sowings on good ground. 
Aldenham House Gardens, Elstree. E. Beckett. 
Fruit under Glass. 
Peaches.—As soon as the tree becomes cleared of its crop 
throw the house wide open, and ply the syringe or garden 
engine daily, working it well up under the foliage, especially if 
red spider has gained a footing ; otherwise every other evening 
will suffice, and, though the fruit has been taken from the 
trees, they still have much to perform in the way of making 
clean well-ripened wood for next season’s crop, which can only 
be achieved by retaining the principal leaves until Nature has 
finished its work, and the said foliage falls naturally from the 
tree in early autumn. Therefore on no account let the border 
get any way near dry while the leaves remain. Laterals 
should be cut away above the first leaf, and if disbudding was 
well carried out there will be no necessity to remove any of 
the main growths. On the other hand, should there be any 
undue crowding of the shoots likely to prevent, the sun and air 
from thoroughly ripening the wood for next year’s fruit, those 
shoots that have borne fruit this season should be cut away at 
the base where the new shoot* originates. 
Succession houses require frequent attention in the matter 
of tying in the shoots, exposing the fruit to the sun by pieces 
of lath resting on the wires or main branches, tying back any 
foliage likely to shade the fruit and early removal of lateral 
growth, syringing the trees twice daily, airing early in the 
morning when bright, with full ventilation from 10.30 a.m. up 
to between 3 and 4 p.m., when close with abundance of mois¬ 
ture until the fruit begins to ripen, at which period less 
moisture overhead and more ventilation at all times are neces¬ 
sary, as advocated in previous calendars for the earliest house. 
Where it is ne*ces*sary to retard the crops to as late a, period as 
possible under glass, afford full ventilation day and night. 
Orchard House.—Any neglect with pot trees at this stage 
will end in disappointment, as indeed it does at any time, but 
such tropical weather and drying winds as we have ex¬ 
perienced of late teaches the man in charge that* well-nigh, 
hourly attention is required to see that such trees do not 
border on the side of dryness at the root*, and that frequent 
applications of manurial waterings is a necessity to swelling 
crops. Neither should surface dressing be lost sight of 
among mid-season fruits such as Peaches and Nectarines, which 
ripen during August and early September. These 'top-dress¬ 
ings should be applied every two or three weeks, when, ol 
course, manurial waterings will not be required. Equal parts, 
turfy loam and horse* droppings, with a little bone-meal, make 
a good rooting medium. Stop the shoots at the fifth or sixth 
leaf, and syringe the trees twice daily, closing at 4 p.m. As 
soon as Cherries begin to ripen overhead syringing must be dis¬ 
continued, or the fruit will crack wholesale, and net the ven¬ 
tilators if birds prove troublesome, leaving a chink of air! 
throughout the night. 
Planting Vines.—Where labour is at, command, and it i> 
intended replanting an early-forced house, lose no time in set¬ 
ting about the work immediately the Grapes are cut by remov¬ 
ing the old Vines and part of the old border, providing the 
drainage is correct. If this is faulty the entire border should 
