June 20, 1903. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
541 
____ A /-\ /\linrnriT'f A VT For details of this competition and prize offered, please 
READERS LUMrLlUlUIN. seepage 535. Please post on Friday night. 
Primula sinensis. 
Whoever lias a supply of flowering plants to maintain during 
the winter and spring months knows the importance of having 
a crood batch of Primulas, and directly the previous year s plants 
are becoming exhausted the cultivator is again at work raising a 
fresh supply This period being close at hand, a few hints on the 
general management may be of service to readers who have not 
previously given this plant atrial. . 
The latter part of April or the beginning of May is the- most 
suitable time for sowing the seed where only a heated greenhouse 
is at command in which to raise the seed. 
Procure a packet of a reliable strain, and sow, or rather plant, m 
pans lin. apart in a compost consisting of equal quantities of leaf 
soil and coarse sand passed through a fine sieve. Drain the pan 
thoroughly, as anything like stagnation either in the atmosphere 
or at the root is fatal to the Primula. Cover the seeds lightly 
and water thoroughly by holding the pan up to the rim in water, 
when it will percolate through the crocks upwards, saturating 
the whole mass uniformly. Allow to drain, and stand on a shelf 
close to the glass. Cover the pan with a sheet of glass; darken 
this by placing a piece of brown paper over it. Germination will 
be hastened in this way. As soon as the seedlings appear above 
the surface, remove the paper and afterwards the glass gradually. 
On no account should the young seedlings be watered overhead. 
Place the pan in water as previously advised, only allowing the 
water just to reach the surface of the soil. 
This may seem to be taking unnecessary pains, but it is often 
these little things on which success or failure hinges. 
The reason for this precaution in watering is that the leaves and 
leaf stalks are clothed with minute hairs, which give them the 
power of collecting and retaining moisture from the atmosphere to 
a considerable degree. Therefore, if watered overhead, particu¬ 
larly when growing in rather a low temperature, the seedlings are 
very liable to damp off wholesale. 
If the seed has been placed at the distance apart advised 
above, allow them to remain in the seed pan until they have 
completely covered the surface of the soil. They may then be 
carefully lifted out with nice balls of soil and transferred into 
small 60 s, using a light mixture of one part loam, two parts leaf 
soil, one part sand. Water carefully, and avoid wetting the 
foliage; return to the greenhouse shelf, and shade from bright 
sunshine. Always give all the light and air possible to insure a 
stocky habit of growth, nevertheless. In this position they will 
soon transform themselves into bushy little specimens, and when 
the pots are found to be fairly full of roots a shift into 4-in. will 
be necessary, using a similar compost, only in a little rougher 
condition, adding a little mortar rubble. A cold frame may be 
utilised at this period for the reception of the plants; place it 
with the glass sloping towards the north; then place a layer of 
fine ashes as a base on which to stand the plants. Keep the frame 
rather close for a time, and water with caution, endeavouring to 
keep the plants on the dry side. Although shading from direct 
sunshine will always be necessary, they should be hardened by 
exposure on all favourable occasions, only shading with the lightest 
material with this object in view. 
About the second week in August, if all has gone well, thei 
plant will he ready for the final shift, 6in. pots being quite large 
enough. The compost should consist of the following ingredients : 
Turfy loam and flaky leaf soil equal parts, lime rubble one part, 
charcoal one part, and coarse sand one part. On no account 
should farmyard or stable manure be employed ; this causes a 
too gross and sappy condition of growth, rendering the plants 
susceptible to that peculiar disease (during winter and spring) 
known as damping or rotting at the neck. This, in my opinion, 
is caused by the manure holding too large a body of water in 
suspension (even with the most perfect drainage) durino- the dull 
period of the-year. This, together with the soft condition of 
beauty COmpletes tlle destruction of the plant often when in full 
fnVi do 1 not , sa y that complete immunity from this disease will 
^ a S , 1i rea t men t alone, as there are other predisposing 
influences, but I venture to say that fewer regrettable incidents 
e recorded by avoiding a rich compost, 
nnfr;™* * m ° unt of judgment is required in this, the final 
^ . lf placed too high in the pot they are liable to fall 
over when in flower; and, on the other hand, if placed too low, 
damping at the neck is almost certain to occur. The best guide is 
to place the plant in such a position that when finished the lowest 
leaf-stalks just touch the soil, then the natural elongation of the 
root stock will lift the plant about -jin. above the surface soil. 
See that the centre of the plant is the highest point when finished, 
then the water will drain from that point outwards, leaving the 
neck as dry as possible. 
When they have taken possession of the new soil, endeavour to 
harden the plants as much as possible by exposing to fuller sun¬ 
shine, as King Sol loses power during early autumn. The lights 
may be completely removed during fine nights for the same pur¬ 
pose. 
As the central flower spikes begin to develop, give a little 
stimulant; soot water or guano are excellent for this purpose. 
About the third week in September remove the plants to the 
greenhouse; let them occupy the lightest and driest position in 
the house. In watering keep the spout of the water-pot away 
from the neck of the plant. If in doubt about watering certain 
plants, leave till the following day. 
If treated properly, no plant will give such a wealth of blossoms 
over so long a period as Primula sinensis. H. B. 
Euphorbia jacquiniaeflora. 
This useful winter-flowering subject is not grown nearly so much 
as it should be, as it is one of the brightest flowers grown, and 
is doubly useful owing to its flowering season being in the dullest 
part of the year. It requires rather more attention than many 
plants, as if allowed to get too dry or too wet the very sen¬ 
sitive roots soon suffer, and if once they get a check the flower¬ 
ing is sure to be interfered with. I find the following system 
gives excellent results, if carried out properly:—Take short cut¬ 
tings from the plants as soon as they pass out of flower, prefer¬ 
ably those with a heel, and insert them singly in small pots. 
By using a pot for each cutting the risk of checking the roots 
during the- process of repotting is obviated. In order to induce 
the cuttings to root quickly, they should be placed in a close 
case, and given a fairly brisk bottom heat. A good potting mix¬ 
ture is leaf soil and loam in equal parts, or parts of the leaf soil 
may be replaced by old cow dung. Keep the plants growing 
continually, as if the wood is induced to ripen the sprays of 
bloom will not be so good, as they will Lie shortened. The plants 
like full sun and a freely-circulating air. During the summer 
they may be easily accommodated in a frame, but later in the 
season it is advisable to get them into a warm house, as any 
check from lowness of tempeiature is almost sure to be followed 
by loss of leaves. When the pots are full of roots give the plants 
the assistance of a weak stimulant, but not too often. Pem. 
Herbaceous Calceolaria Culture. 
As the present is the time for sowing seeds of the above, a few 
hints on the culture of the- same as practised by the writer may 
prove interesting. Where there is a conservatory to keep 
supplied with flowering stuff, or much house decoration to do, 
they are really indispensable, and yet they are not grown as 
much as they might be. One often hears the remark “ They are 
difficult of culture,” but this is all a fallacy, for with reason¬ 
able care and attention they are very easily managed. 
Sowing.—I prefer shallow pans for sowing the seeds. The 
pans should be clean and half-filled with crocks for drainage ; 
over this some rough soil, moss, or leaves should be placed, and 
the pan filled to the surface with fine, light, rich sandy soil com¬ 
posed thus : One part loam, one part leaf mould, and half of 
silver sand. Scatter a little silver sand on the surface, and 
water through with a fine rose. The pan should be left after 
this for an hour or so before sowing, in order that the water may 
drain away. Sow the seed as thinly a& possible over the surface, 
and cover lightly with a sprinkling of silver sand. Place a piece 
of glass over the pan, and place on a shady shelf of the green¬ 
house ; as a matter of fact, a cold pit does admirably. The tiny 
seeds should be shaded from the sun and the surface kept moist; 
thereby will germination be greatly assisted. As 'soon as the 
little plants appear above, give a little air, in order to encourage 
as strong a growth as possible. 
