August 1, 1903. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
65 i 
earliest varieties first. Clean, well-drained pots are a ne¬ 
cessity ; those measuring 5-J, in. in diameter are large enough 
for those, 6 in. doing well for later sorts. Loam nob too light 
or sandy, with a 6-in. potful of bone-meal and a 4-in. potful 
of soot to a bushel of loam, will form a good compost when 
well incorporated. In potting, place a little fibrousi loam over 
the crocks, and keep the: young plantlet a. trifle below the sur¬ 
face of the soil, when finished off, potting quite film with the 
potting stick, leaving § in. for watering, and stand the plants 
in the full sun on a bed of ashes, watering carefully for a. few 
weeks until they lay hold of the new soil. J. Mayne. 
Bicton, Devonshire. 
Among the Orchids. 
Sobralias. — Owing to the short duration of the flowers in 
most of the species and hybrid Sobralias, which usually fade 
after being open one day, this genus has not been held in 
much favour in gardens, and for tnis cause they have not been 
cultivated in tne past to the extent: their merits deserve. 
Many of the species are suitable for conservatory culture, where 
the temperature of the cool intermediate house is maintained. 
It is often difficult to recommend plants suitable for such work. 
The lofty erections which are considered necessary to beautify 
the dwelling are built on architectural requirements, and the 
builders having no knowledge, as a rule, of the requirements of 
plants, the necessary items to' the successful culture are found 
to be impossible to procure. It is in such a structure that one 
has confidence in recommending the evergreen Sobralias; if 
of short duration in the individual flowers, they produce two 
or three flowers' from the same scape, which in a, plant of any 
proportions generally ensures flowers on the plant for about 
a month in the year, which -will compare favourably with the 
more durable kinds in other plants. 
One feature of interest which would lead one to believe the 
Sobralias were becoming more favourably recognised is the 
fact that in several of the prominent groups of Orchids at the 
Temple Show, Holland House, and some of the suburban shows 
that attract groups of Orchids, some of the most beautiful of 
the species and hybrids have been included. Surely, if good, 
enough to' be included in the Gold Medal groups at the Temple, 
they are worth some little consideration, and they should be 
more generally cultivated. 
The most attractive kinds are S. macrantha and its best 
forms; which are difficult to- beat, ranging in colour from deep 
rosy-lilac to' the pure white S. m. alba, better known in gardens 
as S. kienastiana. This lasts in perfection for several days 
after the flowers are expanded. It is scarce, and therefore 
more expensive to procure than most of the kinds. S. xan- 
tholeuca, has pale lemon-yellow flowers ; it is a most attractive 
species, having a robust and free constitution. I have seen 
it successfully cultivated where other kinds have failed. S. 
Veitchii, the hybrid raised from S. macrantha and S. xantho 
leuca, possesses the free characteristics of the parents, has the 
intermediate characters in the flowers; and is a most desirable 
addition. S. Lowii and S. lucasiana are also desirable kinds; 
having a dwarfer habit, of growth, they are suitable for cul¬ 
tivation in a smaller structure. 
Repotting. — The best time to 1 repot the plants of this genus 
is when the new roots make their appearance from the base 
of the recently developed or maturing growth. They are plants 
that require a liberal amount of pot room when repotting is 
one. They do 1 not like to, be disturbed more frequently than 
is necessary, and annual repotting is best avoided by affording 
reasonable pot room when repotting is necessary. Liberal 
drainage must be given, the compost consisting of turfy loam, 
brous brown peat, chopped sphagnum moss; a little leaf soil, 
and sufficient rough sand to afford an open nature of the com¬ 
post ; as; when growing, an abundant supply of root moisture 
is necessary, 't i s w ell to guard against possible-stagnation. 
ress the compost firmly about the roots. Water thoroughly 
as soon as repotting is completed ; shade from the direct rays 
o he sun for a time until the roots get hold of the compost. 
H. J. 
Notes on Hardy Herbaceous Plants. 
Pentstemons. —■ In many parts- of the country these have 
unfortunately not made quite such a free growth up to the 
present time as we are accustomed to see, owing to the late 
tro-sts; but if the early display is not quite so good as expected, 
much may be done to improve the condition of the plants by 
frequently stirring up' the surface soil and applying some feed¬ 
ing material. A small application of artificial manure given in 
showery weather, or a, good soaking of diluted farmyard liquid, 
if the soil is diy, will greatly assist the plants in making a 
good free growth for producing a good display in autumn. 
Keep the main shoots tied up, so that they are not liable 
to' be broken by wind or rain, and loop up the side shoots when 
sufficiently long enough. If it is desired to increase the stock 
of any particular varieties as quickly as possible, this may 
be commenced new by taking off the small shoots and insert¬ 
ing them singly in thumb pots in a light compost. Place in 
a frame or handlight in a cool shady position, and keep close 
until the young plants are rooted. When this is effected they 
may be potted on and propagated from, as desired. This, of 
course, applies to florists’ varieties. In the herbaceous border, 
several of the Pentstemon species are very fine at this season, 
especially P. barbatus, and its variety, Torreyi, the former with 
scarlet flowers, and the latter somewhat paler in colour. These 
make a very pleasing light display if planted in masses, and, 
to obtain the best results, it seems necessaiy to split up the 
plants annually. This can be done any time when the plants 
have finished flowering, and the roots can be divided, or cut¬ 
tings taken, as desired. If root division is practised, these 
can be placed in good-sized boxes, and if by cuttings, three 
should be inserted in a 60 pot. Use a light sandy compost, 
place in a cold frame, and keep close till the plants are rooted, 
after which air can be admitted freely. By this method spikes 
of flower between 4 ft. and 5 ft. in length can be obtained the 
following summer. 
Pinks. -—These are amongst the most easily grown of all 
hardy flowers, and many varieties are invaluable for all cut¬ 
ting purposes. Few things, too, make a more attractive 
edging to the garden paths, and the value of the dwarf varieties 
seems to 1 be more fully appreciated than taller-growing kinds. 
Why this should be it is impossible to say, as the taller kinds, 
which include such fine sorts as Florence, Marion, and Evelyn, 
varieties raised by Messrs. Ladhams, of Southampton, are 
equally as indispensable for decorative purposes as Carnations, 
being deliciously scented and lasting for a long time in water. 
These are best propagated immediately the flowering season is 
over, when quantities of young shoots appear at the base. For 
this purpose a cold frame and light sandy compost should be 
used. The cuttings, or pipings as they are generally called, 
should be taken off carefully, the lower leaves removed, and 
the bottom of the shoot- cut away close to 1 the lowest joint with 
a sharp knife. Then insert- the pipings firmly in the frame 
and thickly, damp- over with a rose water-pot, and keep the 
lights on till the plants are rooted, after which admit air freely, 
so that no damping off occurs. These should be ready to plant 
out as desired by the middle of September, so' that they become 
well established before winter sets in. 
Montbretias and Crocosmias. —Those which were planted 
out last spring have made a very healthy free growth, and a 
fine show of flower seems probable. Where necessary, the 
growths should be supported with neat sticks and bass. A 
good soaking of manure-water greatly assists in colouring the 
flowers well, and a mulching of old Mushroom ; bed manure or 
top-dressing of soil helps the plants to retain a fresh appear¬ 
ance in spells of dry weather, when otherwise the foliage 
assumes a yellow, sickly hue. 
Herbaceous plants, particularly the autumn-flowering ones, 
such as Rudbeckias, Helianthus, and late-flowering Phloxes, 
will need well supporting, as many of these make- giant growths, 
and are very valuable for late flower. 
Some plants which have already flowered will need cutting 
down ; of course; I do not mean that all herbaceous plants 
should be cut down immediately the flowers are past, but in 
the case of such things as Erigeron philadelphicum and others 
