September 19, 1903. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
789 
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A Plea for Forced Daffodils. 
While admitting the beauty of forced Hyacinths and Poly¬ 
anthus Narcissus, I am convinced that the money lavished on 
these would be better spent on some of the standard varieties 
of those general favourites, the Daffodils. They are quite as 
easy to grow, are considerably cheaper, at least, than named 
Hyacinths, are far superior for cutting, and even for conserva¬ 
tory decoration more than hold their own. Of course, it may 
be argued that the range of colour is rather limited. This, of 
course, is so, but the many beautiful and varied shades of yellow 
are admired by all, while glaring colours are favoured only by 
the few. 
As a rule, Daffodils will not stand hard forcing. It is there¬ 
fore advisable to pot up early, so that they may be brought 
along quietly, and yet be in their full beauty long before those 
in the beds and borders outside. Where large quantities are 
wanted for cutting, much space can be saved by planting the 
bulbs in boxes. Boxes about five inches deep are excellent for 
the purpose. Unless the potting loam is very poor no manure 
should be used, for the majority of the Daffodils resent manure, 
especially in a fresh state. If it is absolutely necessary to 
enrich the soil, old mushroom-bed dung is the safest. If good 
turf is at hand, pull it to pieces with the hands, add about one- 
third its bulk of good leaf-mould, and enough sharp sand to keep 
porous. The only other ingredient needful is fine ground bones 
of good quality. The Daffodil seems to greatly appreciate this 
latter, and it may be used quite freely if it is known to be pure. 
Do not pot in wet, sticky soil, rather wait till it dries a bit. 
Five, six, or seven inch pots may be used. Drain carefully, and 
do not make the soil too firm, especially below the bulbs. The 
pots must be plunged outside for eight or nine weeks at least, 
tlien taken to a cold frame for a time, and then gradually admitted 
to the greenhouse. At first a temperature below 50 degrees is 
best for them, but after the flower-stems show, if wanted for any 
special purpose at any certain date, more heat may be given. 
After the pots are well filled with roots, weak manure water 
may with advantage be given them. Also, it will be found that 
Iehthemic guano, a dessert-spoonful to the gallon of water, 
applied occasionally, is a great help. 
A word about suitable varieties, and I have done. The 
bicolors are always greatly admired, and probably Victoria forces 
as well or better than any other. Horsfieldi, Empress, and 
Grandis, too, are indispensable. In the self class nothing could 
beat Emperor for pot culture. , Henry Irving, Golden Spur, and 
Maximus are also in the first class for our purpose. In other 
sections we have Sir Watkin, Stella superba, Barrii conspicuus, 
and Nelsoni major. i 
I mention none of the very new varieties, as it would be rather 
risky to try to force them. All I name are sure doers, are fairly 
cheap, and all very beautiful. C. Blair. 
Preston, Linlithgow. 
Bulbs on Grass. 
Were I asked what I consider the most pleasing form of garden¬ 
ing I should without hesitation give the vote for the wild garden. 
Of course, it is not possible to have a representative garden of 
this kind everywhere, as space is not always available, but clumps 
of hardy bulbs planted here and there on the. lawn under large 
trees have a pleasing effect, and help to brighten. a place up 
wonderfully, and that at a time when very little else is to be had. 
The best tool for the job is a crowbar, which should be struck into 
the turf in a slanting direction in two places about 18in. apait , 
then make a lever of the bar and open the turf. By this means 
the turf is not displaced as by using a spade. In the slit thus 
made place the bulbs pretty thickly, throwing in a little sandy 
soil, and then place the two edges of the slit together and tread 
down. When the job is completed give a good roll. All bulbs 
should be planted as soon as possible if good results are to be 
looked for next year. 
Eranthis hyemalis (Winter Aconite) is a cheery little plant, 
indispensable by reason of its early flowering habit. It shows up 
to the best advantage when planted on a bank. Flowers yellow. 
Galanthus nivalis (Snowdrop) likes a sunny aspect, and 
should be planted very thickly. 
To succeed with Crocus biflorus it is necessary to plant deep and 
guard against rabbits and mice. The autumn-flowering species 
such as O'. Boryi and C. nudiflorus may also be planted at this 
time. 
Narcissus Telamonius (Daffodil) is accommodating, and the bulbs 
should be planted pretty freely, as they seem to thrive in almost 
any position. The leaves should be allowed to die down before 
being removed. 
Muscari botrycides (Grape Hyacinth) is another plant that 
does well for this work. Leucojum vernum, Scilla siberica, and 
S. biflora, Chionodoxa Lucillae, Triteleia uniflora and Cyclamen 
Ooum may also be included. 
It is not yet too late to plant Colchicum autumnale as long as 
care is taken not to break the flowering growths. The soil about 
these should be light, and should be enriched with some well- 
decomposed manure. There is a beautiful double white variety. 
H. Arnold. 
Cool Orchids. 
To this section belong some of the most showy and interesting 
species of the great Orchid family, and, with Mr. Editor’s per¬ 
mission, I will venture to give a few cultural details, the treat¬ 
ment, and management of a cool Orchid house. 
By the term “ cool Orchids ” is meant those which are 
natives of temperate regions and only require sufficient fire heat 
to exclude frosts and dry up any superfluous moisture. The 
house should be of the lean-to type, with a northerly aspect, and 
both top and bottom ventilators must be provided. On the 
stages should be a layer of small coke or shingle, and, if pos¬ 
sible, a rain-water tank underneath will keep a supply for the 
plants and help to keep the house moist and cool. 
During the summer months it will be necessary to use shad¬ 
ing and to keep the air well charged with moisture by frequently 
sprinkling the paths and stages, allowing the house to become 
somewhat drier for an hour about midday. Air must be freely 
admitted, and the ventilators should be left partly open all 
night, or a better plan (where a suitable position can be pro¬ 
vided) is to place the plants outside through the summer. 
A very good situation for them is over a running stream and 
under the shade of trees. If the weather is dry, spray over¬ 
head with a fine rose three or four times a day, and those occu¬ 
pying the house will be greatly benefited by an occasional spray. 
The temperature during the winter months may with safety 
go down to 40 and 45 degrees F., and keep it as low as possible 
by damping down, shading, and ventilating, through our hottest 
season. 
Cleanliness is the key-note to successful Orchid culture, and a 
sharp look-out must be kept for slugs, snails, and thrips. The 
latter penetrate the young growths and cause them to be dis¬ 
figured. The wisest course to adopt is to fumigate at least 
once a fortnight. 
Masdevallias sometimes get in the winter what is known as 
“ spot,” which is generally caused by excessive moisture. A 
suitable compost for cool Orchids is a mixture of peat, leaf- 
soil, and chopped moss, with a small portion of charcoal added. 
All will thrive in well-drained pots, just large enough to receive 
the bulbs ; over-potting must be avoided. Press the soil moder¬ 
ately firm, and prick in some heads of sphagnum, to give the 
plant a better appearance. Orchids requiring cool treatment 
should not be subjected to the drying-off system to such an 
extent as that required by Dendrobiums, etc. If kept on the dry 
side for about six weeks when growth is finished, will be all that 
is needed. 
Odontoglossums.—Among cool Orchids these must be 
awarded premier honours ; their charming and delicate flowers 
are produced all the year round. 0. crispum is the most popu¬ 
lar. The flowering season is a prolonged one ; flower spikes 
appear at almost any time. The varieties are very numerous, 
and in value they range from a few shillings to many hundreds of 
pounds 0. grande is a magnificent plant, and should be grown 
at the warmest end of the house. Other well-known ones are 0. 
Pescatorei, O. triumphans, 0. Hallii, etc. Potting should be 
done in September, but if neglected at tills period, February is 
the month. 
Masdevallias.—A few representatives of this interesting 
genus should find a place in every collection, however small. M. 
coccinea, M. veitchiana, and M. Chelsoni are among the 
largest and most showy. M. tovarensis is a beautiful little 
plant, its pure white flowers being highly prized by all Orchid 
lovers. 
