1012 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
December 5, 1903. 
the plants in large irregular groups chiefly of one colour. For 
instance, if we commence with a group of white flowering plants 
this may lead into a group of plants with pale yellow flowers; 
the next, yellow, then orange, following with crimson, scarlet, 
pink, white again, then pale blue and dark blue. These ten 
groups should cover a space of from 50 yards to 100 yards, 
and each one should not be sharply defined, but one group 1 ruin 
partly into the next. The colours also need not be arranged 
exactly as stated. They may vary according to the taste of 
the planter, but it. is important that only good, showy, bright 
flowering plants should be chosen. Others that are weedy, in¬ 
different, or very short-lasting should be put somewhere by 
themselves; they may be interesting, but not effective in a 
border. If the border has a. high wall or building at the back 
this should be planted with climbing plants whose flowers or 
foliage will harmonise with the group of flowers in front; for 
instance, white climbing Roses behind the group of white 
flowers ; Ampelopsis Veitchii behind the crimson ones. If a 
shrubbery should be at the back of the border the same idea 
may be carried out. There are plenty of shrubs whose flowers 
or foliage will harmonise well with the different, groups' of her¬ 
baceous plants, and. in any case, I would use one' or two of the 
best shrubs that are not too. coarse rooting in. each group 1 , 
such as Daphne, Deutzia, Weigela, Persian Lilac, Spiraea, 
Hydran ere a., Genista. Ribes, Golden Alder, Maple, and there 
are many others suitable. These will relieve the surface of 
the border and help to furnish it in winter with the aid of 
herbaceous plants that are almost evergreen. as Flag Iris, 
Iberis. Hypericum, Yucca., Saxifrage, Veronica, etc. 
Some people are much against using any plant in the her¬ 
baceous border that is not quite ha.rdy. I do: not. a°ree with 
this, and such plants are not easy to. define, as a plant that 
may be perfectly hardv in the South may not be so. in the 
North : or one that will thrive unprotected in a warm shel¬ 
tered part of the garden may not survive one winter in an 
exposed or wet part' of the same garden, I would not hesitate 
to use any plants, hardy or half-hardy, that supplied colours 
that were needed in the herbaceous border. It should be re¬ 
membered that manv of the early flowering plants will be 
over by .Tune, and others that flower in July will not. last till 
the end of summer, so- that by the middle of August, perhaps, 
half the plants wifi have flowered and their foliage ripened off, 
and unless something is done to fill their places the border 
will not. have a good appearance at that time. 
Some- very pretty ideas have been put forward to remedy 
this defect, such as carpeting the ground under the tall late 
plants with spring flowers and bulbs, planting two or three 
varieties of plants together to flower at different, times. Often 
Lilies and 1 other bulbs are recommended, putting other plants 
above them, the Lilies to grow through and be marvels of 
beauty as soon as its covering plant is over. I cannot recom¬ 
mend much of this sort of planting, because if the first plant to 
flower does not, smother the one underneath, it will weaken, 
its growth considerably, and the struggle for existence amongst 
the roots must end in the weakest, being injured ; besides, 
when, the time came to. divide or replant the border, the roots 
would be growing one into the other. 
The best way, in my opinion, to keep the border full of 
flower and growing and healthy is to so arrange the plants at 
planting time that, when an early one ha.s flowered and is going 
to rest, its neighbours on one or two. sides will just be making 
their strongest, growth, which will in most cases cover the 
ground by the time the early one has died down. A know¬ 
ledge of the habit or spread of each plant is most, useful in, 
arranging them like this, a.s some grow upright, taking up 
little roo-m, and others spread out considerably. If this plan 
is carried out, and the,plants staked out properly as they grow, 
instead of being tied in. a bundle, very little bare ground will 
be seen, and if spaces did occur it will be easy to sow or 
transplant some of the best hardy annuals, such as Poppies, 
Godetia. Nemopbila. Linum, Mallow, Candytuft, Eschscholtzia., 
and Calendula ; indeed. I would leave some spaces purposely 
for some of the most showy annuals. 
As a, guide in arranging the plants in the way described, and 
commencing with a group of white flowering plants on the 1 
border and white Roses on the back wall, or suitable slnubs, as 
the case may be, I would choose a shrubby Spiraea, for the 
centre of the group near the back, and on one side of it a good 
patch of white Cactus Dahlias; on the other side some 
pyramids of white Sweet Peas, which, by the- way, may be con¬ 
tinued the whole length of the border in different colours. 
Of course, going to the end again, in front of the Dahlias we 
may have some white Lupins for early flowers, and next to 
them a few Chrysanthemum maximum for mid-season, and 
next again a clump of late white Phlox. Commencing again, 
in front, of the early Lupins place a good clump of Achillea 
Ptarmica The Pearl, following with Hyacinthus candicans 
opposite the Chrysanthemum maximum, and Galega. officinalis 
opposite the Phlox. Going back to the front, of Achillea, plant 
Anemone- japoniea alba in front of Hyacinthus, Hydrangea 
paniculata., and in front- of Galega several clumps of Cam- 
Pear CATiLLAC : weight 19 oz, (See p. 1005.) 
panula pyramidalis or Lilium candidum. Once more, coming 
in front of Anemone japoniea,, plant Iberis, white Aquilegias, 
Snapdragons, Iris or Cypsophila paniculata. If another dwarf 
row is needed, suitable plants: would be Violas, Arabis, Saxi¬ 
frage, Candytuft, and many others of dwarf habit, including 
bulbs. By planting an early mid-season and late variety in 
succession, it will be found that the plants can be put much 
nearer together, but a knowledge of the habit of each plant is 
essential. 
They would be better not, arranged in, rows; in fact, if 
planted in the way advised they will not be in straight line®, 
as some will be much nearer together than others, but, each 
variety should be of sufficient size to be seen well when in 
flower. The other groups of colour can be: arranged in some¬ 
thing the same way, but giving the decided colours, like white,' 
yellow, scarlet and blue, more sua.ee and greater prominence 
than the others. The border will want attention as the plants 
grow, such as staking, tying and hoeing, to keep down weeds, 
and some- plants will benefit greatly by mulching and covering 
the roots with protecting material in winter. 
Cumberland. 
