December 12, 1903. 
THE OARDEKINQ WORLD. 
1031 
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READERS LUMrLllllUlN. 1029. Plea.e post on Friday nifht. 
Tulip Talk. 
There have appeared in recent numbers of The Gardening 
World articles dealing with the culture, etc., of the Tulip, and 
in this article the writer wishes to supplement the articles on 
Tulips re varieties, etc., which he has found invaluable for 
forcing, etc. In these gardens some 5,000 Tulips are forced 
annually in boxes and pots for cut-flower purposes, and also for 
decoration, and the varieties grown by the writer number 
eighteen. As regards soil, etc., it may be stated that the Tulip 
delimits in a idee rich light soil, and, when potting, leaves 
the top of the bulb level with the surface of the sod, and do not 
press too firmly. The great point in forcing Tulips is to be sure 
that the bulbs are well-rooted ere commencing to force, as on this 
point much of their successful cultivation depends. 
1 Varieties.—The 1 Due Van Thol varieties are the earliest for 
forcing ; these are too well known to need description. A Tulip 
well worth forcing in large quantities is Mon Tresor, a variety 
with large rich golden yellow flowers of very attractive appear¬ 
ance, which can be had in bloom by Christmas easilv ; more¬ 
over’ it grows to a good height (llin.). Pottebakker White, too. 
is very effective, as is Canarv Bird, a rich, beautiful yellow. 
Proserpine, a rich dark silky rose, should not be omitted 
from the list. One of the finest for pot work is Vermilion Bril¬ 
liant which does not belie its name, and is worthy of a place 
in every collection. The writer has also found Bacchus a very 
useful variety for forcing. Them Cottage Maid and Bose Gns- 
delin are both liked, their colours being so delicate yet very 
distinct and pretty ; both respond readily to forcing. La Reme 
is too well known to need any description. L’lmmacule, too, 
is a nice early white variety, and is not expensive ; whilst to 
those who desire a first-class Tulip, Joost Van Vondel White is 
a lovely variety, albeit rather expensive. Pink Perfection is 
another variety of great merit, with its beautiful. deep pink 
flowers, and is always appreciated. Keizeirskroon is very effec¬ 
tive for conservatory work, etc., with its bright red yellow 
edued flowers. Three very fine scented varieties much liked 
are Prince of Austria, a delightful orange-shaded scarlet variety, 
and a nice tall grower, Thomas Moore, rich orange, and Golden 
Prince, both of which latter are well known. 
The writer forced all the above-mentioned varieties last winter, 
and thev did so well as to merit another trial this year. In 
connection with Tulip forcing, one often hears the cry of short 
stalks but the writer averted this by the use of inverted boxes 
and pots to fit over the other boxes and pots, thus drawing the 
stems. In conclusion, the writer must not omit to mention 
Murillo, a double Tulip. Double Tulips do not, as a rule, “ catch 
on ” like the singles, but Murillo, with its fine double rose and 
white flowers (more like a Paeony), is always welcome. 
T. W. Dollery, 
The Gardens, Weetwood Grange, Leeds. 
Successful Tomato Culture. 
The Tomato has, judging by the quantities grown! in large 
market establishments, become unnecessary article of food ; it is 
also considered one of the principal garden crops in well-man¬ 
aged gardens. The chief, in many instances, is called upon to 
supply the house daily the whole year round, and unless he has 
room and convenieaioe to keep up a continuous supply of plains 
his efforts would end in failure. 
The most trying season during the year to produce fruit is 
the dark, dull days of winter through which we are now 
passing. If seed were sown the last week in September, and 
kept growing without check, and the necessary structure at hand, 
no trouble should now be experienced in obtaining ripe ■‘ruit 
daily, keeping the temperature from 60 deg. to 65 deg. by day, 
and not less than 60 deg. by night, admitting air on all favour¬ 
able opportunities, avoiding a dull, damp, stagnant atmosphere, 
which would be sure to cause disease and damping of the fruit. 
Some growers prefer cuttings for winter crops, as they are less 
vigorous than seedlings, coming more quickly into fruit; but 
where plenty of room is at hand to accommodate the more 
vigorous seedling it is best to start with seeds.. Plants raised 
from seeds will carry the grower over a long period, as they are 
more prolific than cuttings. 
Seeds should now be sown for early supplies to. follow the 
winter batch, selecting good and well-tried varieties, leaving 
novelties till later on in the New Tear, as these often cause 
disappointment. Any light sandy soil will be found suitable 
for sowing the seed in, which will germinate in five or six days 
if placed in a temperature from 60 deg. to 65 deg., covering 
the seed pans with sheets of glass. On the top of this place 
damp moss to check rapid evaporation. A high temperature is 
injurious, and a low temperature must at all times be avoided. 
As the seeldings make their appearance they must be well ex¬ 
posed to the light, avoiding cold draughts. As soon as the 
second leaves appear they should be potted singly into small 
pots, such as thumbs, and kept in heat until the roots have 
taken well hold of the new soil, admitting more air as the plants 
increase in size and strength. Sowings for the general or main 
crop supply should be made in February and March. 
There need be no great anxiety regarding soil, as the Tomato 
is very accommodating in this respect; but the expert grower 
will have in readiness a good supply of fibrous loam, cut from a 
rich pasture and stored in a heap for at least twelve months before 
required ; with this should be added a good sprinkling of grit, 
leaf-mould, and decayed manure in moderate quantity. The 
addition of manure must not be overdone in the early stages of 
growth, as it produces luxuriance, which is not conducive to 
fruitfulness or early ripening. 
Water plays an important part in the culture of the Tomato, 
drought causing the bloom to drop, therefore considerably re- 
ducing the weight of fruit. No hard and fast rule can be laid 
down as to when the plants require water ; the grower will deter¬ 
mine this for himself, taking into consideration the surround¬ 
ings in which the plants are grown, condition of the soil, and 
time of the year. One important item to be remembered is never 
to water unless the plant requires it, then not merely by damp¬ 
ing the top soil, but saturate down to the root. After this leave 
the plants alone until more water is wanted ; watering should 
never be excessive, as careless watering and insufficient atten¬ 
tion to* airing are forerunners of the dreaded Tomato disease and 
insect pest. 
Authorities differ as to how Tomatos should be pruned. Some 
say “ don’t prune ” at all, and others advise “ taking all the 
foliage away from the plant,” which simply means ruin. Both 
extremes are objectionable. If the foliage is allowed to remain 
the fruits will take longer to ripen, at the same time the flavour 
will not be so good ; while the removal of all the foliage will 
seriously interfere with the root action. The. better plan is to 
wait until the fruit has set; then by removing the leading point 
of each leaf from the bottom of the plant to the top, ripening and 
colouring will be assisted ; at the same time the health of the 
plant will not suffer. William James Penton. 
Studley Castle Gardens, November 25th. 
Finer Bulbs on Clay Soil. 
Many gardeners are heavily handicapped by having to deal 
with soils that are either too heavy or too light. In the case of 
either extreme it means abandoning the idea of cultivating many 
highly desirable plants, or else cultivating them at extra trouble 
and expense. 
In accordance with the law of compensation some things can 
be given up for substitutes that are suited to the particular soil 
in hand ; but, on the other hand, there are certain subjects, that 
have come to be regarded as essential, or at least so highly 
desirable that no substitutes can be found for them. Amongst 
this class I would place many of the finer bulbs, especially the 
Liliums. I have to do with a very heavy clay soil and subsoil. 
We have greatly improved the soil for a considerable depth, but 
it will be readily understood that on such a subsoil as I have 
indicated many of the finer bulbs as well as other things perish 
during the winter owing to the presence of a superabundance of 
moisture. Of course, keeping beds and borders as high as 
possible without any special arrangement will ensure success for 
many things that would otherwise be liable to perish, but. if 
success is to be assured 1 with many of the finer bulbs special 
means must be used. This is what we have done with the 
most gratifying results. 
A border'in the pleasure grounds, about 12ft. wide, against a 
west wall, had a lot of old rockery stones, brickbats, masons’ 
“ shivers ” (drippings) wheeled on to it, covering it to a depth 
of 1ft. at the back and about £ft. at the front. This drainage 
was covered to a depth of lift, at back and 1ft. at front with a 
compost of friable road scrapings, garden soil, leaf soil, old 
potting soil, decayed vegetable refuse, and sand. Loam was not 
available. The border was then planted with the following, 
amongst 0*11161' things : Lilium auratum, L. speciosum in variety, 
