1044 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
December 19. 1903. 
Readers’ Competition—continued. 
I will just describe bow they may be grown successfully. This 
year I received from a brother gardener in Shropshire a few 
cuttings of Salvias. The third week in May these were inserted 
in 34-inS pots, four in a pot, in a mixture of 1 part loam, g part 
leaf mould, and ^ silver sand. These were plunged in a bed 
in a Melon’ pit, and received a watering with the fine rose can 
They required no more except a spray overhead morning and 
evening till rooted, which was in about eight days or so._ I then 
divided them up and re-potted them singly into 3g-m. pots, 
with the same mixture with a little wood ashes added.. I then 
returned them to Melon pit to give them a start and assist them 
to root into their new quarters. I then pinched the top out of 
each, and after breaking away I removed them to a cold 
frame, stood them on ashes near the glass, and shaded from 
strong sunshine at all times. 
Their next shift was into 51,-in. pots, in mixture 1 part loam, 
l leaf mould, i old decayed dung, \ wood ashes, { silver sand, 
and a 6-in. potful of ground hones and a 5-in. of an artificial 
manure to every barrowful, mixing well and potting pretty 
firm. They were then returned to cold frames, and pinched m a 
week’s time at tire second joint from the last, to make the plants 
as even as possible. Pinch the longest shoots first, and the 
others as they grow. They will also require to he lowered in 
the frame, and also have more room between. The first can be 
done by throwing ashes out and levelling ; the last means more 
frames as they grow in breadth. They will require to be aired, 
every other frame at back and front, and shaded from all sun 
with mats. These I consider to be the handiest for the purpose, 
as they can be removed when the sun goes off them. Give them 
a spray overhead every evening. "When there was any appear¬ 
ance of green fly I fumigated them in the evening. 
Their next shift will be into their flowering pots, 8in., with 
the same mixture as before, and see that the pots are propel 1\ 
covered with. a layer of onoss over each, 'and piefer moss that 
has been gathered'in the fields. Moss that is used from dykes 
and walls is no use ; the roots will not penetrate it the same. 
They will require one pinch after this last potting, and as soon 
as the roots are beginning to run in the new soil feed with 
diluted cow manure twice a week, and remember, as I have 
mentioned before, to keep lowering them, and giving more room 
between as they grow. , , 
They will require to be housed about the first- week ot 
September in a cool shady house, when they will gradu¬ 
ally begin to throw up their flower spikes. Spread a teaspoonful 
of a good artificial manure over the surface every week, and 
water in. After they are done flowering cut them back and 
remove to a late Peach house till required to start m heat for 
cutting for next season’s plants. I noticed that Sail ia splendens 
was shown, for the first time in Edinburgh, but they were not 
up to much as plants, and I hope to see better at next year s 
Mons Meg. 
Timing Vegetables. 
Much is written in our gardening papers at the present time 
on the “ timing ” of the “ autumn queen,” in order to have 
the blooms in the pink of condition on the show day, hut seldom 
do we see a table on the timing of vegetables, which I am sure 
would be of great service to the “ amateur ” readers of The 
Gardening World who intend to deck the exhibition table with 
well-finished produce. 
Tn the first place, before I commence to append a list, con¬ 
sideration must be given to locality, ground, and variety of vege- 
table, as all these tend to make a difference, be it late or early. 
But I think the following: table, “ timed pretty well in the 
Midlands of Scotland,” will he found to come pretty close to the 
date in ordinary seasons and with ordinary varieties. Peas re¬ 
quire from 14 to 16 Weeks from time of sowing to being fit for 
use ; Runner Beans about 17 weeks ; Broad Beans, 14 weeks ; 
French Beans, 12 weeks ; Giant Cauliflower. 22 to 24 weeks ; 
while the early sorts come in at from 15 to 18 weeks ; Brussels 
Sprouts, 24 weeks Cabbage, 14 to 16 weeks , Lettuce, 12 weeks , 
Beetroot. 18 to 20 weeks] Carrots, 16 to 18 weeks; Leeks, 24 
to 26 weeks; Celery, 22 weeks ; Parsnips, from 28 to 30 weeks ; 
Onions, 28 to 30 weeks ; Broccoli. 30 weeks ; Potato®, 18 to 20 
weeks ; Salsafy and Scorzonera, 23 to 24 weeks ; Savoys, 26 to 
28 weeks ; Scotch Kale, 28 weeks ; Spinach, “ summer,” 5 
weeks ; Turnips, 8 to 10 weeks, Swedes requiring double the 
time ; Radishes, 6 weeks ; Tomatos, 18 weeks ; Cucumbers, 8 
weeks; Vegetable Marrows, 14 weeksi Scot. 
Making a New Vine Border. 
In making a new Vine border, the first thing to be considered 
is the drainage, which should consist of broken bricks, rough 
stones, etc., and should be 9 in. to a foot thick. The largest 
stones should be pitched at the bottom, and the smaller ones on 
the top of these. Over the drainage a layer of turf should be 
placed, grass side down, to keep the soil from running in 
amongst the stones. The soil should be taken from an old pas¬ 
ture to the depth of 2 in. to 4 in., and should be of a fibrous 
nature. This should be stacked up at least six months before 
wanted. Chop down the turf fairly rough, and to every five 
cubic yards add one yard of old lime rubble, a small portion 
of charcoal and wood ashes, and 2 cwt. of -g in. bones. The 
border should be the same width as the house, and 2 ft. 6 in. of 
soil would be quite deep enough, as it is better to encourage sur¬ 
face rooting of the Vines. When making the border, if a few 
drain pipes are put in to reach from the drainage to the top of 
the soil, these would serve to warm the border, sweeten and 
purify it, by allowing plenty of air to circulate through the 
soil. Vine borders should be manured according to the strength 
of the rod or growth. If growth is strong and rapid, it would 
show the Vine is having plenty of nourishment. If growth is 
slow, a little nitrate of soda would do good, and a top-dressing 
of cow dung in the winter and spring months would encourage 
plenty of fibrous roots, which would mean better growth and 
berries. T. B. B. 
Watercress in Cold Frames. 
A cold frame well filled with Watercress during the winter 
months is certainly a desirable acquisition in any garden, not 
the least of its many advantages being that it is easy of access 
at all times and under all conditions of weather. Another point 
is that it must certainly be wholesome, which cannot always he 
the case when streams- and places where it is found growing are 
liable to become polluted in so many ways, and, further, I have 
not yet heard of the table at which it is not appreciated. 
Personally, I have seen abundant crops obtained year after 
year by proceeding o-n the following lines. At the end of August 
or early in September -a bed is made up with half-rotted leaves 
and manure, a little more than a foot in thickness and quite 
a foot wider each way than the frame. Make the bed firm, upon 
which must be placed a two-light- frame. Then cover the bed 
with a mixture of equal parts of loam and leaf soil to a depth 
of at least 6in. Of course, to commence with, it will be neces¬ 
sary to procure a, stock of cuttings from a neighbouring stream 
or elsewhere, but when a start has- been made this difficultv 
will be obviated. However, for a start, cuttings—which 
are readily available early in September—should be made 
about 6in. in length, and inserted in the bed at about 8in. 
apart. Close the frame when one light has been filled, shade 
from bright sunlight, and sprinkle with water e-ach day until 
they begin to take root, which will be in about three weeks. 
The other light may then be filled in a similar manner, the 
object of this being to give a succession. In gathering it will 
be advisable to take one light at a time, t-o give the other one 
a chance to grow again. Four good waterings will generally 
be found sufficient to last till over Christmas, and an ordinaiw 
two-liglit fra-me, with proper management, should produce 
several bushels of Cress. Protection from frost must always be 
afforded ; at the same time, it will be well to remember that 
everv gleam of sunshine will be of very material advantage to 
it. ' v W. 
A Welsh School of Forestry.— The Pembrokeshire County 
Council have started a movement for establishing a school of 
forestry for Wales. Seven Welsh county councils consented to 
send delegates to a conference at Haverfordwest. Sir Charles 
E. B. Robinson suggested that the county councils should select 
a site, beginning with 100 or 200 acres and a professor’s bouse. 
He thought the initial capital outlay would not exceed £5.000, 
and the Government might contribute half. Arrangements 
were made for another conference at Swansea, 
■%* The prize last week in the Readers’ Competition was 
awarded to “ C. C.” for his article u Finer Bulbs on Clay 
Soil,” page 1032* 
