December 26, 1903. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
1055 
best advantage. As a. flowering shrub it is nob surpassed by 
any other evergreen, which is so hardy and easy to cultivate. 
B. empetrifolia is of value, especially for planting on rock- 
work, having a neat, compact habit, and does not exceed a 
foot or two in height, with golden yellow flowers, which are 
produced in spring, and frequently again in autumn. B. 
japonica is a fine shrub when a warm place can be found, but 
unless this is the case: it does not succeed so well as could be 
desired. In favoured localities, however, the noble foliage and 
sweetly-scented flowers make this shrub a desirable addition. 
B. eoogestiflora hakeoides is a variety of great merit, which 
was lately re-introduced, and when better known will become 
a great favourite. It is very distinct in appearance and 
growth, and is very freedlowering. 
B. vulgaris, the common Barberry, is deciduous, and chiefly 
valuable on account of the large quantities of bright scarlet 
fruits. Of this there' are two very ornamental forms, one with 
purple foliage named foliis purpureis, and the other with green 
leaves, which have a distinct yellow margin, and named foliis 
aureo-marginatis. 
B. Thunbergii, which grows between 3 ft. and 4 ft. in height, 
is of great beauty in autumn, when the foliage assumes bril¬ 
liant tints of scarlet and yellow, and is always one of the meet 
admired. A. E. Thatcher. 
Aldenham House Gardens, Elstree. 
Hardy Fruit. 
Apricots. —During mild weather proceed with the pruning 
and nailing of the trees, spurring back all summer-pinched 
shoots beyond where stopped, and shortening extra-strong 
growths that were laid in during summer, (3 in. to 9 in. 
Generally speaking, the Apricot carries the finest fruit on 
young wood, but avoid laying it. in thickly, or the reverse will 
be the case. In training these are best kept to the fan- 
shape, as branches are more liable to go off than with any 
other stone fruit, except, perhaps, the Cherry, and with little re¬ 
adjustment the vacancy can usually be filled up. 
Peache3. —Many defer the pruning and training of these until 
February, but it matters little, as far as I am aware, whether 
done now or in six weeks’ time, as the buds are far enough 
advanced at this date to see where to cut. The Peach and 
Nectarine practically bear on wood made the previous summer, 
though most trees have more or less spur growths, which ripen 
good fruit as a rule; therefore the knifesman must bear in 
mind when pruning to leave .enough young, well-ripened wood 
to supply next year’s crop. I prefer pruning my trees before 
loosening them from the wall, considering that a better idea 
can be had as to what, wood should be dispensed with. Medium, 
well-ripened sheets can be laid in their full length, robust ones 
shortened back to within 12 in. or 15 in. of their origin, cutting 
to a wood bud, which is much more pointed than fruit buds, or 
to a triple bud, where usually a wood bud starts from the 
centre. If the saw has to be used to remove an exhausted 
branch, smooth over the wound with a sharp knife, and, where 
possible, it should be cut slanting, so that the rain can have 
no ill-effects upon the same. Pruning finished, wash the trees 
with soft, soap, flowers of sulphur, and half a pint of quassia 
extract, the whole put into, three gallons of water, adding just, 
enough sulphur to thicken it as a, paint, using a small painters’ 
tool, working it, well into the crannies, drawing the brush with 
the wood when doing the bearing shoots. Some tie the trees to 
stakes away from the wall to retard the flowering period, but 
I think little is gained, and many blossom buds must get 
knocked off when getting the trees in position. In training 
see that right and left of the tree is evenly balanced, and if 
anything the centre slightly open, allowing space when tying 
or nailing for the shoot 'to swell, if need be. Dispose the fruit¬ 
ing shoots from 3 in. to 4 in. asunder, covering the*older wood 
where possible, which must favour the tree during hot weather 
in summer. 
Top-dressing. —Pruning and training completed, prick up 
the borders a, couple of inches deep, and remove the exhausted 
soil, replacing it with maiden loam, with a moderate sprink¬ 
ling of wood ashes and bone-meal, adding a good percentage of 
lime rubble or old plaster for all stone fruits, choosing diy 
weather for such work. 
Raspberries.- —Established stools should be tied to the wires 
or stakes, allowing from 4 in. to 6 in. between each cane. The 
shortening of the canes should be deferred until February. 
Remove loose surface soil as just stated, and replace with a like 
soil, and over this 2 in. or 3 in. of well-decayed farmyard 
manure, if procurable. 
Gooseberries. —These made a strong growth the past season, 
and the pruner must exercise a free hand in thinning out, the 
shoots, so that the hand can conveniently get at the fruit, 
bearing in mind that the finest, fruits are borne on such shoots, 
spurring back all superfluous ones within an inch of their 
origin. Shoots retained over 15 in. in length should have their 
tips removed, cutting to an inside- bud if pendulous, and an out¬ 
side bud if erect growing. Syringe the bushes with lime, soot, 
and quassia, if birds trouble the buds. 
Currants. —The red and white varieties require to be 
spurred fairly close back, allowing 6 in. to 9 in. of growth on 
extension shoots; the latter ought, not to be less than 9 in. 
asunder. The black require different treatment, these bearing 
mostly on young wood; therefore retain these where space 
allows, and remove old exhausted branches at the base, shorten¬ 
ing the new wood of undue length, and pusrring back weakly 
shoots. After these prunings are gathered up, apply a good 
coat of manure to these bush fruits, the same to be forked in 
before growth starts in spring. 
Strawberries.— Established plantations should have a mulch 
of decayed manure, or potting bench refuse soil, mixed with a 
little so-ot wood ashes and old mushroom bed material, which¬ 
ever it is thought to be most in need of, this to be forked 
in lightly when the plants begin to grow afresh in spring. 
The Fruit Room. —Apples are keeping very well considering 
the past season, Peasgood’s Nonsuch and Warner’s King being 
still in good condition, which is late for these varieties. Pears 
are getting scarce, Glo-u Morceau, Passe Crassane, and Easter 
Peurre being the trio left, with us. Examine the fruit twice each 
week, and remove at once any decaying, or they soon affect their 
neighbours. James Mayne. 
Bicton, Devonshire. 
The Stove and Greenhouse. 
The Conservatory,— This, structure should now be gay with 
flowering plants, and every effort should be made to maintain 
a, bright display throughout the festive season. There will be 
a heavy demand for plants and cut blooms in the dwelling, and 
it is essential that great care be exercised in carrying them to 
and fro, as, should they feel the cold, a severe check will be 
given. Chrysanthemums will play a very important part,, and, 
although the mJbrity of the blooms grown, on the large, bloom 
system will be over, there should be an abundance of fresh 
blossoms upon the later varieties grown as bushes. Niveum, 
Phoebus, Golden Gate, W. II. Lincoln, and Beauty of Shooling 
and some others are excellent for late flowering, and a, batch 
of plants should always be grown- in open quarters, and lifted 
on the approach of wintry weather. These will now be at 
their best, and of inestimable value for cutting for decorations. 
My plan is t-o lift- the plants with a, good ball of earth and 
place them upon, a, spent- hotbed in a. Cucumber pit, merely 
working a- little garden soil among the roots and well watering 
in. The flowers invariably finish well, and they can be cut 
with long stems- for arranging in vases- or for other purposes. 
Poinsettias should now be at their best, and will assist mate¬ 
rially in brightening up groups, as well as being invaluable for 
table decoration in association with greenery and berries. A 
good batch of Le-lanum capsica,strum should always; be grown ; 
