DAHUADEL NURSERIES 
NOT PINCHED BACK 
Drawing Z is another system, which is recommended 
for some varieties but can be used tor most dahlias 
(except crotch bloomers) should you desire to see one 
early bloom. Our reason for not recommending this is 
that dahlias a r e not at their best in the hot weather 
and this one bloom is not always up to expectation. 
Again, the right half shows normal branch and bud 
development when not disbudded, with most of the 
growth in the top of the plant. There are, however, a 
few varieties that need the mature foliage on the main 
stalk to keep the roots functioning properly, so when 
removing this crown bloom leave the central stalk and 
leaves on the plant but disbud the entire stalk, as 
shown on the left half of drawing. 
Key Letters Used in Index 
The key letter Just ahead of the price is our recom¬ 
mendation of the system to use in topping and dis¬ 
budding for each variety listed. 
V Do not disbud. For early blooms pinch out once or 
twice as indicated on right side of Drawings X 
and Y. For later blooms, cut back to about 6 
inches above ground 6 weeks before you want 
blooms when growing in light soils; in heavy soil 
allow 7 to 8 weeks. Always leave the side shoots 
or branches to come into bloom. This system 
works very well for the smaller type dahlias; such 
as, miniature, pompon, single, orchid flowering, 
anemone, and collarette; also for the larger 
dahlias when grown for mass color and landscape 
effects. 
W Cut back six weeks before you want bloom leaving 
about six small branches for your first six blooms 
and disbud as soon as laterals are large enough 
by following Drawing X, if stems are naturally 
long, and Y when stems are short. 
X, Y, Z See Drawings. 
IRRIGATION 
When your dahlias need water, wet the ground so 
it will penetrate about a foot deep when growing in 
light soil. In heavy soil, watering need not be as 
heavy, as it may be followed by a rain and over-water¬ 
ing may result. Cultivate as soon as sufficient drain¬ 
age has taken place, and do not water again until 
necessary, which will be in about a week. 
Except as recommended below for insect control, do 
not spray your dahlia bushes, nor sprinkle the surface 
of the ground every night or so, for this will only pack 
the surface, preventing air circulation and causing the 
soil to crust and dry rapidly in the sunshine. This also 
draws the feed roots to the surface, to be sickened by 
the heat of the sun's rays. The flowers produced are 
soft and the root development very poor, low in 
vitality and hard to winter. 
TILE DRAINAGE can be easily and inexpensively 
installed in heavy soil for irrigating in dry weather and 
afford drainage in wet weather. Arrange your rows of 
dahlias with the natural slope end where each row of 
dahlias is to be planted, dig a trench about 15 inches 
deep and place in it a row of porous drainage tile 
with a uniform fall toward the low end. Connect the 
rows of tile across at top and bottom (glazed sewer 
tile tees suggested), install a gate valve at the low 
corner, and pipe off so that the water will readily 
drain away. On the high corner of your garden, install 
a vertical tile stand pipe in which a float valve or hose 
can be used for filling. In wet weather, leave the gate 
valve open to drain. In dry weather, close the gate 
and run water in the stand-pipe until you have given 
your dahlias a good drink by sub-irrigation. This 
system can be made still more efficient by filling in 
around the drainage tile with a coarse porous ma¬ 
terial, such as coarse ashes, or coarse sand, before 
filling level with regular garden soil. This installation 
will not be unsightly and last indefinitely. 
Automatic overhead irrigation is the most satisfac¬ 
tory all-around system for light soils. It is ideal for the 
early growing season and we recommend its use in 
the middle of the day in bright sunshine during this 
period, as it will discourage thrips and leaf hoppers 
and control red spider. If insects are bad we recom¬ 
mend sprinkling every two or three days from I to 1/2 
hours each time until insects are under control, then 
harden the plants off with less water and more culti¬ 
vation. This will not only discourage insects but help 
the plants out-grow the insect injury. When bushes 
are well developed and buds breaking it is best to 
water after nightfall, less often and more thoroughly. 
Once a week should be sufficient in real dry weather. 
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