PLANTING SUGGESTIONS 
Read Carefully for Better Results 
FRUIT TREES 
ARTICHOKES AND RHUBARB 
1 to 10 11 to 49 50 or 
Plants Plants More 
Price. $ .20 $ .15 $ .12^ 
Globe Artichoke. The standard com¬ 
mercial variety. Buds should be har¬ 
vested as soon as ready, to obtain a suc¬ 
cession of crops. 
Crimson Winter Rhubarb. A vigorous 
grower, producing large stalks during 
the entire winter. 
ASPARAGUS 
White asparagus is produced by ridg¬ 
ing the soil above the plants so the 
shoots will be kept below ground. Plant 
the crowns in rows about six feet 
apart with the plants 24 inches apart in 
the row. They should be set from eight 
to ten inches deep. They are first cov¬ 
ered with only two or three inches of 
soil and more soil is gradually added as 
the shoots begin to grow. Do not cut the 
shoots the first year. 
1 to 10 11 to 49 50 or 
Plants Plants More 
Price. $ .03 $ ,02j4 $ .02 
Mary Washington. The leading com¬ 
mercial variety grown today. Produces 
large, vigorous, uniform shoots of very 
good quality. Highly rust resistant. 
Palmetto. A variety quite resistant to 
rust and adapted to nearly all sections. 
Very early and a heavy yielder. 
11/16 in. — l/ 2 in. — 3/ 8 in. — l/< in. 
Pear Trees Graded by Caliper 
When to Plant. Fruit trees are usually 
dug in this state in December. They may 
be planted any time after digging until 
spring. January and February, however, 
are the best planting months, and the 
earlier trees are put in the ground, the 
better growth they will usually make 
the first year. 
Treatment When Received. When trees 
are received from the nursery, unpack 
them at once, and unless they are to be 
immediately planted, heel them in by 
placing the roots in a trench and cover¬ 
ing with soil, which should then be thor¬ 
oughly wet down. Do not permit the 
roots to dry out or freeze. 
Planting the Tree. Dig large holes—at 
least six inches larger each way than 
necessary to accommodate the roots. 
Cut back the ends of roots slightly, and 
remove entirely any broken roots. Don't 
plant too deep. Leave the bud union 
showing just above the surface. Fill in 
with top soil, and firm it well about the 
roots. If possible, it is an excellent plan 
to water the tree when planting. After 
filling the hole about three-fourths full, 
pour in several gallons of water. When 
this has soaked away, finish shoveling 
in the soil, leveling up the ground 
around the tree. 
Don’t fail to cut the top back. This is 
necessary in order to balance the top 
with the loss of roots which always 
takes place when a tree is dug from the 
nursery. If the top is not cut back the 
result is usually a slow, weak growing 
tree the first season. If the tree has side 
branches when received from the nur¬ 
sery, do not remove them all, but leave 
two or three, shortening them in. (See 
illustration.) 
Developing the Tree. During May of the 
first season, select three or four young 
shoots, properly distributed around the 
trunk, and rub off all other growth. 
This will induce a maximum growth of 
the undisturbed branches. During the 
following winter, remove all growth of 
the preceding season except the three or 
four main branches or “leaders.” Cut 
these back, removing from one-third to 
one-half their growth. During May of 
the second summer, encourage from one 
to two shoots coming from each of 
these main branches, and lightly pinch 
back other growth. The tree will thus be 
provided with from five to seven main 
limbs, and this number is ample. With 
some varieties, no further cutting back 
is desirable after these main limbs are 
formed. In such cases subsequent prun¬ 
ing consists merely of thinning out, 
where the growth is too thick. With 
other varieties, it is necessary to con¬ 
tinue some cutting back, in order to in¬ 
duce proper branching, and to prevent 
a too upright growth. It should be kept 
in mind, however, that heavy pruning on 
young trees is not conducive to early 
bearing. 
Peach tree with top pruned for planting 
Do not cut oil all side branches 
In most sections, young trees need 
from two to four thorough irrigations 
during the summer. Frequent water¬ 
ings make for rapid growth. 
NUMBER OF PLANTS REQUIRED 
PER ACRE 
6x 6 feet 
1210 
22x22 feet 
90 
8x 8 feet 
680 
24x24 feet 
75 
10x10 feet 
435 
25x25 feet 
69 
12x12 feet 
302 
30x30 feet 
48 
15x15 feet 
193 
35x35 feet 
35 
16x16 feet 
170 
40x40 feet 
27 
18x18 feet 
134 
50x50 feet 
18 
20x20 feet 
109 
60x60 feet 
12 
HOW TREES ARE GRADED 
Our fruit trees are graded by caliper, 
rather than by height. Thus, when they 
are planted in the orchard and cut back 
they are of uniform size and more satis¬ 
factory to the planter. The grades listed 
in this book refer to the approximate 
heights of the trees in feet, and cor¬ 
respond to the following caliper sizes 
taken two inches above the bud. (Figs 
and walnuts excepted.) 
(See illustration at lower left.) 
II" caliper and up.approx. 6 to 8' 
l /- 2 ." to II" caliper.approx. 4 to 6' 
V%" to Yi" caliper.approx. 3 to 4' 
y to 3/jj" caliper.approx. 2 to 3' 
GUARANTEE. The California Nur¬ 
sery Company will exercise care to have 
all stock true to name; nevertheless, it 
is understood and agreed that should 
any stock prove untrue to name, the 
California Nursery Company shall he 
liable only for the sum paid for the 
stock proving untrue, and shall not be 
liable for any greater amount. 
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