SCHOHARIE, NEW YORK 
27 
NUMBER OF TREES OR PLANTS TO ACRE 
40 feet apart each way. 28 
30 feet apart each way. 48 
20 feet apart each way. 110 
18 feet apart each way. 135 
15 feet apart each way. 205 
12 feet apart each way. 300 
10 feet apart each way. 435 
8 feet apart each way. 680 
6 feet apart each way.1210 
5 feet apart each way.1745 
3 feet apart each way.2725 
3 feet apart each way.4840 
RULE— Multiply the distance in feet between the 
rows by the distance the plants are apart in the rows, 
and the product will be the number of square feet for 
each plant, which, divided into the number of square 
feet in an acre (43,500), will give the number of plants 
or trees to the acre. 
SETTING OUT AN ORCHARD 
The two most common systems of planting are rec¬ 
tangular’’ and "hexagonal.” In the former the trees are 
set at the four corners of a rectangle, usually in the form 
of a square. This is the simplest and most common 
method as it is easy to lay out and gives equally wide 
spaces between the trees for cultivating or cropping. 
In the hexagonal or triangular system the trees are set 
in the form of a hexagon with one tree in the middle 
making a series of equilateral triangles. 
There will be fewer insects, less disease and greater 
ease in caring for the orchard when the trees are set 
proper distances. In setting the home orchard it often 
is convenient to set the apple trees 40 feet apart and 
use the smaller growing peach, cherry, etc., as fillers 
inasmuch as the filler trees will likely have done their 
best before the apple trees become large enough to 
need all the space. 
In case peaches or other filler trees are used the 
distances between the trees and the number of trees 
per acre will vary. Apple trees, to do their best, should 
be at least 30 feet apart; if they are long lived 40 feet 
will be none too far. Pears required from 20 to 25 feet 
for best results. Peaches, plums, apricots and sour 
cherries need about 20 feet. Sweet cherries grow 
larger and there should be 30 feet between the trees. 
Don’t crowd the trees, give them plenty of room. 
Before starting to dig the holes, a decision should 
be made as to what plan of planting is best suited for 
the location selected and the rows should be measured 
off and stakes set to show where the trees are to be 
planted. Line up the stakes in all directions and dig 
each hole with the stake location as the center. 
FERTILIZING 
Young orchards, planted on prepared land, should 
need little if any fertilizing for the first few years. If 
necessary an application of barnyard manure under the 
branches will allow the rain-drip from the foliage to 
carry nourishment downward to the spreading roots. 
MULCHING 
If impossible to thoroughly cultivate the orchard the 
area immediately around the trunk should be kept open 
and hoed often and a mulch of weeds, grass, leaves or 
manure can be used as a ground covering under the 
branches. 
Select a proper site in planting an orchard. Climate, 
moisture, soil, exposure, air and water drainage, all 
must be considered. 
Fruit does best on fertile, well-prepared soil, but 
some varieties can be grown on poor soils. 
Select varieties adapted to your locality. Don’t ex¬ 
periment. 
Have a definite plan in setting out your orchard. 
Give your trees plenty of room. 
Cultivate your orchard if possible; if you can’t culti¬ 
vate it, mulch it. Cultivation and mulching save moisture. 
Grow cover crops if you can. Cover crops maintain 
soil fertility. 
Don’t neglect your trees and canes. Keep them 
properly pruned. 
If you have an old orchard, save it. Make it pay. 
Do not waste fruit after you have grown it. Store or 
can enough for winter and sell the surplus. 
Keep your tress free of disease and insects. Know 
when to spray and how to spray—then spray. 
CONTROL OF BORERS 
These pests of apple and peach trees must be killed 
by a wire thrust into their tunnels, disclosed by remov¬ 
ing a few inches of dirt around the base of the tree. 
Go over your trees in April or May and in late August 
or September. After cutting out the borders mound up 
the dirt around the trunk about 6 inches high. 
Line shows proper place to 
cut. Leaving stub as shown 
causes scar difficult to heal. 
PRUNING 
The pruning of trees should begin when they are 
planted. The transplanting of a tree marks a very critical 
point of its life history, and to neglect careful and 
proper methods of planting and pruning at that time is 
to invite disaster or, at least, unsatisfactory returns from 
one’s efforts. 
Apple and Pear —Select from three to five of the 
branches to form the permanent head of the tree. These 
branches should be well distributed around the trunk, 
and at safe distance apart up and down the trunk. If 
two bracnhes come out, one exactly opposite the other, 
forming a crotch, a split may occurr at this weak point 
in later life, when the tree is full of fruit. Shorten these 
selected branches to about five buds, cutting the 
branches just above a bud that points outward. Remove 
all the other branches close to the trunk. Also shorten 
back two-thirds the central leader of the tree, if one 
exists, else the tree assumes a too upright growth for 
best results in later life. 
Cherry —Five or six good limbs, well distributed 
around the trunk will be sufficient to form a well 
balanced top. The limbs left after pruning should not 
be cut back as severely as recommended for some other 
classes. 
Plum —Cut back all bracnhes to about two or three 
buds. After the tree has grown for a year, remove all 
but four or five branches, but do not cut these back. 
These limbs will form the permanent framework for the 
top and subsequent growth may be pruned to meet the 
requirements or taste of the planter. 
