28 
F. A, GUERNSEY & CO. 
SMALL FRUITS 
Gooseberries and Currants —Prepare the ground by 
deep plowing or spading. Cut the plants back fully 
one-half. Plant four feet apart both ways, same depth as 
plants stood in the nursery row, and firm soil well. 
Blackberries, Raspberries, Dewberries —These should 
be set fairly deep, except one-year-old rapsberry plants, 
the new growth of which starts from the crown in the 
mass of hair-like roots,- these should be planted shallow, 
with the crown not more than one inch below the 
surface. Too deep planting is often fatal to one-year-old 
raspberry plants. Plant in rows five or six feet apart, 
with plants three to four feet apart in the row. Firm 
the dirt around each plant. Keep surface of ground 
loose. Water in dry weather during growing season. 
Mulch in winter after the ground is frozen. 
Strawberries —Plants should be set and cared for the 
same as tomato and cabbage plants. Plant in rows three 
to three and one-half feet apart and twelve to fifteen 
inches in a row. The cheapest way to grow them is to 
plant in long rows and tend with a corn plow, using 
shields. Never allow rows to spread to more than eight 
or ten inches in width. Cover the plants late in the fall 
with one or two inches of prairie hay or stable litter 
(if free from weed seed). This covering should be re¬ 
moved from the plants'in early spring and left between 
the rows until the fruit is picked, then it should be 
removed from the patch and the rows cultivated the 
same as before. 
Grapes —These should be planted ten to twelve 
inches deep in holes large enough to admit roots with¬ 
out curling them, pressing soil solid about roots. Cut 
vines back to within three or four buds of the roots. 
Keep the ground clean by cultivating,- if impossible to 
cultivate, mulch. 
As the vine grows train to trellis. 
Prune in February or early March, before there are 
any signs of new growth. 
Cut back to two buds. The fruit of the grape is borne 
only on shoots of the current year's growth, which 
spring from the wood of last year’s growth—hence the 
importance of annual and intelligent pruning. 
Asparagus —Prepare ground by deep plowing or 
spading. Set plants twelve to eighteen inches each way, 
three inches deep, with roots well spread out. Every 
fall mulch the bed well with manure. 
Rhubarb —Prepare ground as for asparagus. Set the 
plants with crown or eye two inches under ground. 
Plant three feet apart each way. Mulch in winter. Give 
clean cultivation the same as for any other crop. 
SHRUBS 
If planted in beds or groups the ground should be 
spaded deeply and well worked. If shrubs are set as 
individual specimens they should be planted the same 
as trees. 
Set shrubs at the same depth as they stood in the 
nursery row, or with their crowns at about the surface 
of the ground. Water the plants well during the hot, 
dry weather and keep the ground well stirred around 
them. Most shrubs require judicious pruning at planting 
time, and subsequently. When shrubs are planted it is 
advisable to cut them back from one-half to two-thirds 
with few exceptions. 
Dig a trength 12 inches deep or more for setting 
hedges such as barberry and privet. 
Early flowering shrubs should be pruned directly 
after blooming. Late flowerig shrubs should be pruned 
in early spring while dormant. The early blooming 
shrubs produce bloom each year on the wood growth 
made the previous year. The late blooming shrubs pro¬ 
duce bloom on the wood growth made the year of 
blooming. 
ROSES 
If roses are planted in the ordinary way with the 
tops left exposed to the sun and drying winds of the 
spring, they are almost sure to shrivel before time for 
them to grow, and thus the plants are greatly endang¬ 
ered, while if the following suggestions are followed, 
success is almost certain. The plants sould be unpacked 
as soon as received from the nursery and planted, if 
possible. If unable to plant them immediately upon 
receiving them, they should be heeled-in deep (buried) 
in moist, loose earth, waiting time to plant. In planting 
they should be set two inches deeper than they stood 
in the nursery in well-prepared, damp soil, but not 
wet enough to be muddy, if the soil is dry it is well to 
plant the roses solidly, then wet thoroughly and after 
the water has soaked away, throw up a small mound 
of earth five or six inches high around the plant. Then 
cut off the branches about one inch above the mound, 
leaving it this way for ten days or two weeks, or until 
the buds start and show a desire to grow, when the 
dirt mound can be raked down. Roses handled in this 
way hardly ever fail to make a good start and a very 
satisfactory growth. 
Showing shrubs before and after pruning. 
Note that all of the smallest branches 
are removed. 
PERENNIALS AND ROOTS 
Prepare the ground by deep spading twelve to 
eighteen inches, and work it into a well pulverized 
condition. 
Peonies —Should be set with the crown two to 
three inches below the surface of the ground. Plant 
two to two and one-half feet apart. Mulch heavily 
after the ground is frozen and remove mulch in the 
spring. 
Iris —Should be set with the crown two inches below 
the surface. Plant twelve inches apart. Mulch as for 
Peonies. 
Phlox, etc. —Set the crown one inch under the surface 
and spread out the roots. Firm well. Mulch in winter. 
Water in summer. Plant twelve inches apart. Gail lard ia. 
Delphinium and other perennials should be planted 
about like Iris and Phlox. 
